trevorsklar

Sounds like the lockout chip is resetting the system every second. Almost always, when an NES is having issues, it's because there's a bad connection from the game to they system. Try these steps: (1) Clean the game. Open it up and use an eraser to clean the contacts. If it still looks dirty, use 99% isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and a Q-tip. (2) Your 72-pin connector may be bad. I've never had luck cleaning them, but you can try it. Most reliable fix is to get a new 72-pin connector on ebay for $7. (3) Every once in a while, the contacts on the motherboard can get dirty. This is less likely to be the problem, but you can try it. Pull the 72-pin connector off the motherboard and clean the contacts the same way you cleaned the game cartridge. If you go to the trouble of cleaning the motherboard, you might as well use IPA and get it really clean. If this doesn't work, you could try disabling the lockout chip. It's easy to do, you just cut one pin of a certain chip on the motherboard. Usually you only need to do...

Okay so it is possible to repair this, but it's extremely technical and requires a lot of specialized tools and supplies. Definitely only worth it if the process and expense sounds like something you would attempt for fun. In this video, RetroGameModz performs a similar repair on a different board. https://youtu.be/vx50YtEC2S8 Looks like you're gonna need a new motherboard.

Edit: Whoops! I was talking about the actual NES. I didn't realize this question was about the NES Classic. My bad! =============================================================== Sounds like the lockout chip is resetting the system every second. Almost always, when an NES is having issues, it's because there's a bad connection from the game to they system. Try these steps: (1) Clean the game. Open it up and use an eraser to clean the contacts. If it still looks dirty, use 99% isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and a Q-tip. (2) Your 72-pin connector may be bad. I've never had luck cleaning them, but you can try it. Most reliable fix is to get a new 72-pin connector on ebay for $7. (3) Every once in a while, the contacts on the motherboard can get dirty. This is less likely to be the problem, but you can try it. Pull the 72-pin connector off the motherboard and clean the contacts the same way you cleaned the game cartridge. If you go to the trouble of cleaning the motherboard, you might as well use IPA and get it...

Actually you can just pry under the ribbon cable. The LCD has a metal frame there that allowed me to slowly and carefully pry from that point without (re)breaking my LCD.

This is a BAD place to pry on a functioning LCD. I used this exact method, slowly and carefully, and my LCD shattered.

Instead, remove the lens (it’s worth it to sacrifice the lens adhesive to save your LCD), and gently and slowly press with a gloved thumb on a corner to push it through from the front of the Game Boy. Let the adhesive release itself, don’t force it. If the room is super quiet, you should be able to hear a faint peeling sound, even if you can’t see anything moving. That means you’re doing it right; just wait and it will release.

My battery case doesn’t have three metal rings. Just place it in whatever way will be easiest to connect the positive battery tab to the positive terminal on the board, and the negative to negative.

There’s no semi-circle printed on my socket. Just line up the notch cut out of one end with the semi-circle.

I have a hot air rework station, could I use it on a low temperature setting? How hot is too hot? Like 200° Celsius? Less?

So, it’s a year later, and I have a lot more experience with this system now. The front of the cartridge tray needs to hook under the edge of the board.

It’s much easier to get the tray on and off if you just make sure the board is unscrewed from the case. Then pick the board up a little and the tray should be much easier to slide on and off.

Mine broke off too. At first I thought it would just pop back in, but when I looked at it under magnification, I can see that a tiny piece of plastic actually snapped off the flap. I think we're farked. Looks like the only way to fix would be to solder on a new cable connector.

Phillips #0.

Leave the middle screw where it is (the one being unscrewed in the picture). That screw holds the two halves of the photodiode assembly together, not the case.

The second time around, I learned why it was so stubborn. The picture suggests that you should start at the base of the saucer and work your way around, but that’s backwards.

Start separating with your spudger at the distal side of the saucer and work your way toward the handle. Then for the last part, pull the piece up and away, like peeling a banana. See the second picture for the bottom half of the saucer, below. Do the same on the top.