I have found that it is possible to fix an imbalance between speakers by loosening the screws at the back of the computer under the offending speaker. Play something, lay the laptop on its keyboard with the screen hanging over the table so that the back of the computer and the screws can be seen. loosen a screw at a time while listening to the sound. You may find quite a remarkable improvement ! Tighten them all up one at a time until the sound worsens again, then, loosen once more - or remove that screw totally. You could stick the screw in place - but loosened - with a drop of nail varnish. This a a temporary fix - but, it works for me until I can get a new machine. Replacing the speakers did not help by the way, but my screw trick - found while I did the replacement - did.
The IFixit guides are essential for performing any part replacements - but read and follow them with care - and read the user notes too. After replacing my speakers, the left one is quiet - but I think that is a software thing - I’ve not fixed that yet …
After putting the ‘S” shaped cable back the wrong way and thinking I’d killed everything, it works. But - the right speaker is quite a bit less loud than the left. I think this may be a software thing, but I can’t fix it. I had no problem with balance before the speakers’ rubber perished. Any ideas?
I would NEVER have attempted this fix, nor the battery replacement without these guides. Some steps can be skipped - and it would be good if this was mentioned in the main text rather than just the notes - these guides are ESSENTIAL - saving us all both money and planet.
The speaker has quite a lot of plastic that goes under the board at the top end. There is no option but to remove the covering parts. The notes show which steps can be skipped.
ABSOLUTELY ! I found out the hard way. I took a break, came back to me dead computer and wondered - if - this cable would fit the other way round - and voila ! I wish I had read this note first :-)
I read the note above and managed to fold the card out of the way. I’d put it in a paper envelope to stop it touching anything as it flaps around. The bag also stops static build up and reminds you it’s there ! The wires on mine were held down with two strips of tape, the pointed spudger? pushed along the length of the wires widened the tape loop when I pushed firmly but carefully. Once widened, tweezers can open it fully .
This is very tricky indeed - at least on my computer. I failed at this point - having skipped to it as sugested above so as not to stress the ribbons on the other side. The ZIF was not as I expected. They had opened when I pulled up the stick cover and I found I was working on the socket itself. The top edge came adrift after almost no pressure being put on it. The ribon did not come free with gentle pulling though. At that point I put the back on again… waited until the battery recharged a bit and found I had not nroken it after all. I doubt I shall try again. It is much harder to replace than the 15 inch - much…
After putting the ‘S” shaped cable back the wrong way and thinking I’d killed everything, it works. But - the right speaker is quite a bit less loud than the left. I think this may be a software thing, but I can’t fix it. I had no problem with balance before the speakers’ rubber perished. Any ideas?
I would NEVER have attempted this fix, nor the battery replacement without these guides. Some steps can be skipped - and it would be good if this was mentioned in the main text rather than just the notes - these guides are ESSENTIAL - saving us all both money and planet.
The speaker has quite a lot of plastic that goes under the board at the top end. There is no option but to remove the covering parts. The notes show which steps can be skipped.
I’d not even seen that pic until I came here to add my comments. Very good point !
There is another screw near the yellow one, the 5.5 mm silver, raised-head T5 Torx screw. I had to remove that too rather than force things.
Yes, a few more detailed pics here would help. Indeed, general pics explaining HOW ALL the plugs and sockets fit would be VERY handy :-)
ABSOLUTELY ! I found out the hard way. I took a break, came back to me dead computer and wondered - if - this cable would fit the other way round - and voila ! I wish I had read this note first :-)
I read the note above and managed to fold the card out of the way. I’d put it in a paper envelope to stop it touching anything as it flaps around. The bag also stops static build up and reminds you it’s there ! The wires on mine were held down with two strips of tape, the pointed spudger? pushed along the length of the wires widened the tape loop when I pushed firmly but carefully. Once widened, tweezers can open it fully .
I’ve just found that I have broken it after all. No keyboard. Bluetooth still works so I can use the machine.
All in all, an expensive mistake. BTW - I did NOT get the kit from IFIXIT - not sold here.
This is very tricky indeed - at least on my computer. I failed at this point - having skipped to it as sugested above so as not to stress the ribbons on the other side. The ZIF was not as I expected. They had opened when I pulled up the stick cover and I found I was working on the socket itself. The top edge came adrift after almost no pressure being put on it. The ribon did not come free with gentle pulling though. At that point I put the back on again… waited until the battery recharged a bit and found I had not nroken it after all. I doubt I shall try again. It is much harder to replace than the 15 inch - much…
I am unhappy with the new battery life. I get just over two hours. Is this right ?
Pagina 1 di 2
Prossimo