When ignition is turned off, radio buttons memory goes-- that is, have to be re-set to favorite stations. Fuses are okay....

On my relatively simple 1982 240D (manual transmission)... oil collecting under air breather ... and, it turned out, 95% of oil dripping, over time, onto garage floor ... was solved by 2 extremely simple fixes: the rubber elbow under, and therefore inaccessible short of removing air filter housing, was cracked and "weeping" oil... Not even having a new one on hand, a quick fix was to exchange it with the one on top so as to be able to quickly replace it when I got a new one. AND, 2nd ... the oil filler cap was also weeping oil... I experimented and finally went with a FUEL filler cap / nice shiny chromey FUEL cap--they ARE interchangeable, SIZE-wise at least. The FUEL cap on the OIL filler worked so much better/tighter than what was also around $5-$8, an all purpose oil filler cap -- on both 240 and 300D. (And, yes, I also, in this process, bought a replacement GASKET--fitted it...it wasn't as oil-tight as the new FUEL cap. By fuel cap I mean the standard, all purpose one you find in places like...

italic textOn a 1983 240D and/or 1982 300D ... can't remember...I work on both.... The solution to similar problems with directionals and flashers was-- all in replacing that red, console-mounted switch. I replaced that switch, circa $20-$30; it fixed both flashers and directionals. I too had previously thought--but was wrong--about a couple things: 1. that a relay / flasher unit might be found elsewhere, but it was IN the switch...... and... 2. when I tried to disconnect / use a short wire connector with allegator-clips / i.e. "go around" the flashers so that the directionals, at least, would work-- that did NOT work. It was diabolical--logic did not prevail--it had looked like, surely, as a "quick fix" to at least get my directionals working, tha if I just have the 1 or 2 posts that carry the directionals CONnected, but DISconnect the 4-way flashers posts...... I'd thought that'd be a short-term fix / answer, but it wasn't. All (5? 6?) posts on a nice, new, clean switch had to be connected. That console...

…it’s only my TRIP odometer that stopped working…. I’d bet it’s in the mechanism for resetting it—that is, pushing the button IN to reset the TRIP odometer to 00000….. now jammed at 190.1 or so …. and pushing doesn’t do anything. …

MAIN odometer & speedometer DOEs work as usual. ‘haven’t opened ‘er up and eyeballed it yet. THANKS for the insight here.

…by the way…just in case you’re reading this and had experience with the FUEL gauge also….I specifically can tell you…that stopped working once when I had instrument panel out (for other purposes—as if I brushed against something??)

…it doesn’t work by: being “over” to the right…such that “full” down to about 1/3rd acts normally….but it stops at 1/3rd …

in other words, it could read 1/3rd and be empty. ….

setting trip odometer, thus, becomes quite handy, as I always do…until a few days ago when that stopped working. Peace. Out. 240D 1983 380K 4 speed manual…a beauty mechanically.

Have dielectric grease on hand ... it is NOT conductive .... after reassembling things, put dielectric grease, lightly, over everything....might cut down corrosion happening so fast again ....'thanks for idea from well known source of Mercedes info, elsewhere.

I have a "mystery" starting motor problem and hope re-newing ground and power connections fix it, instead of the solution being the whole starter motor replacement.

For 10-50-sometimes 100 start ups, everything's fine ... but then, usually after engine is hot and I've driven awhile, then stop, turn engine off...then it acts as if there's a "dead" spot on a copper wires winding set-up ..... it always DOES start... I just try it about 20 seconds later...once, twice, usually no more than 3 or 4 times, then it starts up normally. ......... I've replaced my battery GROUND cable--that's easy to get to....the power cable to the starter motor is next.