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This is an excellent video, James. Thanks. I used it to bake the GPU on my mid-2011 iMac when the vertical green lines appeared and it failed to start up. It now works perfectly again.
Some of the motherboard connectors are slightly different in the 2011 iMac. Ultimately there were slightly fewer than on James’s machine, but the video gives all the info you need to figure it out. The ambient light sensor was very easy to remove on my Mac - lucky me!
I also didn’t need to remove the entire heat sink mounting assembly from the mother board. It was possible to remove just the video card and heat sink by removing the 2 torx screws that fix it to the motherboard and a single torx screw at the other end of the heat sink. In fact, it would have been difficult to have done it any other way.
Although marked ‘difficult’, I think it’s more ‘involved’ than hard to do. You just need to be methodical and organised, and don’t be put off by the depth of deconstruction/reconstruction - it’s a perfectly surmountable task!
I had to transfer the headphone jack gasket, the rubber mic cover and the antenna interconnect clip from the outgoing assembly, exactly as per the guide. It would perhaps be better if this information was incorporated into the dismantling steps instead of an additional comment at the end. I’m not experienced in repairing electronics, but didn’t find this procedure ‘difficult’, as iFixit call it. Rather there are just a significant number of steps involved and you have to be committed, methodical and organised with the strip-down so that the reassembly is straightforward. The right tools were also a big help.
I combined the replacement of the lightning connector assembly with a new battery (and replacing the pentalobe screws with the Liberation Kit) and it all worked perfectly.
Reconnection was a challenging part of this guide. To help, I left the antenna cable free from the cable clip until I had reconnected it. In one hand I used the tweezers to hold the antenna connector in roughly the right place above the socket on the board and used the tip of the spudger to gently press it into place. It took me no longer than 5 minutes to get it connected. However, others have had to persevere longer, to be patient and don’t force it. It will go on!
Afterwards I carefully removed the small foam pad from on top of the old antenna and used a tiny square of double-sided tape to attach it to the new antenna. Others have successfully used glue.
I didn’t find this particularly difficult, even though I’m pretty inexperienced at this sort of work. I watched the video overview to get me going and then followed the steps in the guide. My tips would be to keep the screws and parts organised as you dismantle, and ensure you read all the reassembly tips as you go; it’s easy to skip over them. I also found using the Liberty Kit to replace the pentalobe screws was worthwhile.
Poor old Marv of Feb 2015. Suggest he sticks to chopping logs.