Joe

I have mid-2015 Macbook Pro Retina that is mostly non-responsive to keyboard input. The power button works fine and an SMC...

I have a 2013 Mac Pro that won’t power on. Customer reported that the system had randomly powered off by itself a few...

I have a 2011 Macbook Air 13" that has a screen problem. Primarily, the red channel seems to flicker off and on, also...

My wife's Galaxy S5 G900A stopped charging last night. This morning she plugged it in to a different, known good OEM...

Hello, I have a A1224/EMC 2133 Core2 Duo 20" iMac that will not produce video on the LCD. I bought this system with a...

Forgot this was still hanging out there. In the end a replacement trackpad and cable fixed it.

Have you run the hardware diagnostics yet (press D key at bootup)? Also try running Memtest for Mac. Another troubleshooting step to try is install macOS onto an external hard drive and boot from it. It will be slow, but you can eliminate SSD problems if you get the kernel panics running from an external drive.

Is it dark like the screen brightness is turned down to its lowest setting or is it completely dark like the backlight isn’t coming on at all? If it is completely dark then I would suspect that some water made it to the logic board. If the screen is lit up dimly, like the screen brightness is all the way down, it is possible that the F1 key got some moisture in it and is stuck. Seeing as how you said that the water was spilled near the delete key and that is where the screen LVDS connector is located, I’m guessing some water made its way to the logic board. I would say disassembly and drying is the first step.

That’s a broken LCD panel. Command+F1 should toggle the screens.

I ended up narrowing down the problem to the panel. I removed the screen bezel and found that problem would come and go when I pressed the left side flex cable that connects the panel to the controller board. Note, I am not referring to the LVDS cable that connects the LCD to the motherboard. The problem is with the flat, orange flex cable that comes out of the panel and goes to the control board that the LVDS cable connects to. I ended up using some double sided tape to hold the flex cable in a position where the screen is consistently functioning properly. I'm guessing at some point I will just have to bite the bullet and replace the panel, but for now it is working normally and not exhibiting the problem anymore.

Sounds like the hinge mounting points on the LCD cover have broken. You will need to replace the LCD cover and the screen bezel. It isn't terribly difficult to do if you are comfortable with laptop repairs. You will need to remove the screen assembly, disassemble the screen assembly and transfer the panel, webcam, WiFi antenna, etc. to the new cover, snap on the new bezel and reinstall the screen assembly. Otherwise any PC repair shop can do it (not GeekSquad or Office Depot). Replacement parts are available on eBay, but in order to get new and not used parts the LCD cover would have to be ordered from Asia. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Original-New-for-Samsung-Chromebook-XE303C12-LCD-Back-Cover-BA75-04169A-/161893684608?hash=item25b19d9580:g:l0MA... http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-Samsung-303C-XE303C12-LCD-Front-Bezel-BA81-18198A-BA94-00007A-/182055535851?hash=item2a635b04eb:g:abgA...

No, these are both G900A phones purchased at the same time so they have the exact same chargers. Besides that, we have interchanged them regularly in the past. The problem is definitely in the phone.

After replacing the LVDS cable the screen comes on with backlight.

You most likely have a bad battery. From what you describe the OS detects the charger properly and that the charger has enough amperage to charge the battery.

In most cases when moving the screen causes image glitches like this it is due to a faulty LVDS cable. However, the non-digital looking yellow fade in the corners would indicate an LCD failure.