Strumenti necessari in questo Smontaggio
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Before you can even think of disassembling any Nintendo device you have to face the same problem with every console except NES and Wii: the screws of the enclosure. And the most tricky fact of these screws is their type because this is not a reasonable standard screw.
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The four screws I'm talking about are a compound of a flat plate with a thicker convex layer with six notches in the brass.
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This bit is a Nintendo Reduced E Series bit size 8. Found at http://eazypower.com/shop/nintendor-tee-...
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I couldn't find anything suitable in the internet, so I built one on my own in this way:
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Using a steel rod of about 8 mm diameter.
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I tried to mill three teeth with equivalent distance around the boundary of one end of the rod with an angle grinder. After that I drilled a hole perpendicularly in the center of the rod. Taddaah... a working screwdriver!
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Now let's begin the Teardown.
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Make sure to have a game disc inserted to avoid damaging the lens. Flip the unit upside down and remove the screws sitting in the four holes with your possibly self-made screwdriver. Don't remove the enclosure yet!
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Turn the device on its stands again, now lift the top case off. It'll come up easily.
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Unsnap the controller port cover and the rearmost I/O-cover by unsnapping the two snaps on the sides of each cover. Don't remove the controller panel yet.
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Then remove the heatsinks of the memory card slots (necessary step).
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Now start removing the 'normal' Phillips #0 screws.
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Start by removing the fan assembly.
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then unscrew the 12 visible screws on the edging of the now not so cube-shaped GameCube.
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Now you can lift the drive assembly up. You maybe have to loosen it a bit with a screwdriver or a heavy duty spudger.
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The mainboard is now visible.
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Now remove the heatsink. Unscrew the six screws holding it.
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Now use anything flat and durable to carefully lift up the heatsink by putting it under the aluminium and using it gently as a lever.
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If there are thermal pads remainig on the processors and/or ram chips, remove them with a plastic spudger.
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Now disconnect the controller port panel connector by lifting and jiggling it carefully. It should come off easily.
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24 MB MoSys 1T-SRAM
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ATI 'Flipper' GPU, 162 MHz with 3 MB 1T-SRAM embedded within the die
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IBM 'Gekko' CPU, 486 MHz (PowerPC 750CXe-based core)
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Connectors (2nd pic):
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'Hi Speed Port'
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'Serial Port 1'
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'Serial Port 2'
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If you lift the mainboard up, you'll see a metal plate, probably for EMI-protection. Remove the two screws holding it and you have access to the internal power supply.
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8 Commenti
Great teardown Thomas!
Will I need to reapply the thermal paste?