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Dr.Wreck has finally worked up the courage to tear apart his Brand New Motorola Droid! What's inside?! Keep it locked to PhoneWreck to see the details as they arrive!

This user-contributed teardown is in response to iFixit's Droid bounty offer.

Questo smontaggio non è una guida di riparazione. Per riparare il tuo Motorola Droid 1, usa il nostro manuale di assistenza.

  1. Thar she blows! Keep it locked on iFixit and PhoneWreck to see all of the details as they become available!
    • Thar she blows! Keep it locked on iFixit and PhoneWreck to see all of the details as they become available!

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  2. The first step is to remove the backcover and Battery
    • The first step is to remove the backcover and Battery

    • Here you'll see two screws

      • Use your T6 to remove both the Black and Silver Screws.

    • There are more screws but they are non-conveniently hidden. Finding these was the hardest part!

    Torx size is a T5 NOT A T6!!!

    acemn232 - Replica

    • Non-conveniently, Motorola has made the chassis screws hard to find...

      • Two are located underneath the plastic piece at the top of the device.

      • Use a pin or very fine stiff wedge to lift this away from the double sided tape to reveal two more T6 screws.

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    • Finding the rest of the fasteners is a royal pain...

      • Did you think to look under the lens cover and google label? Probably not... you should! There's a T5 under there!

        • Try not to mind Dr. Wreck's massive toe thumbs...




    Spread the Fixmas cheer.


    Spread the Fixmas cheer.

    • You're not done yet! You still need to dig for fasteners at the bottom of the device!

      • Luckily there are really *not* easy to find. See that gold grill underneath the battery cover? Yeah... peel that away.

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    • With these screws removed, you can pry away the back part of the chassis.

      • Use a wedge and work it carefully around the outside of the frame.

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    • There it is!

      • Use the T5 to remove the last silver PCB screw.

      • Pull off the flex cables that fast the top of the logic board to the screen portion.

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    • Now you can flip out the PCB.

      • Remove the flex off of the bottom of the PCB to free it.

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    • Lastly, pry away the black frame that surrounds the keyboad of the device. This will unveil the sliding mechanism.

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    • We removed the Cans (not a recommended step!!!) to see what IC's were on the board.

      • Check out the Block Diagram for full details!

    The OMAP 3430 is made by Texas Instruments and not Qualcomm. You can't see the manufacturer, since the memory is a POP (Package on Package) configuration.

    gbraad - Replica

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Membro da: 11/11/2009

1.432 Reputazione

11 Guide realizzate

Headphones were tugging or yanked enough to wear out the connection, and I found these instructions invaluable. It was enough for me to get the back panel off.

The back panel has the headphone jack (visible in your last image). I stretched the spring connectors out to give more pressure, but the real problem were the pads on the flex connector -- a couple of them had holes worn in them. I applied a light coat (a dab, followed by a touch from the desoldering braid) of solder to the pads, reassembled the unit, and it works like a charm. I hope this helps anybody who has a flaky headphone connection.

Ridicalis - Replica

Another good note would be to mark what "Droid" your making a manual for. You did fairly well but please remember Droid is only the brand and there are literally tons of models for example there is the Droid X2, X3, Droid Razr, etc. and when I was looking at this I thought it would help but this guide is absolutely useless when trying to open or fix my Droid Maxx HD since they are completely different.

Cosimo Bressi - Replica

I am attempting a digitizer replacement on my a855. The phone is disassebled (screws all accounted for luckily) and just got the glass piece re-taped into the bezel. Having trouble finding where the connector for the digitizer reconnects? The phone came apart and I could not see the connection point for the digitizer ribbon connector.


Stephen Bricker - Replica

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