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Questo smontaggio non è una guida di riparazione. Per riparare il tuo Blendtec Total Blender, usa il nostro manuale di assistenza.

  1. Blendtec Total Blender Teardown, Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 1, immagine 1 di 1
    • Our friends at Blendtec were awesome enough to lend us a blender for this teardown!

    • $400 gets you:

    • Their awesome "base" 1560W Total Blender (as if you can call anything with 1560 Watts "base")

    • Instruction manual

    • CD-ROM with product tour and video recipes

    • Lifestyles Recipe Book, good for many blenderiffic creations

  2. Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 2, immagine 1 di 3 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 2, immagine 2 di 3 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 2, immagine 3 di 3
    • Fully digital controls, along with an LCD display. None of that "push-button" stuff found on $30 blenders.

    • But will it blend?

    • We were so anxious to open up this puppy, we never found out. We'll take the word of thousands of satisfied customers, as well as Blendtec's hilarious videos.

    • A mechanical switch on the back of the unit stops any bad ideas from turning into deadly ideas.

  3. Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 3, immagine 1 di 2 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 3, immagine 2 di 2
    • You'll notice the absence of plastic. Other blenders use plastic shafts as a safety mechanism. If the blade gets stuck, the blade/motor connection will sever, as the plastic will either break or melt.

    • The Total Blender has several electronic monitors that enable it to have a full metal shaft. That's how it transfers all that power to your ice cubes.

    • The splined connection between the motor shaft and the blades is perfectly suited to transfer the astronomical torque of the motor to the edge of the rotor blades.

  4. Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 4, immagine 1 di 3 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 4, immagine 2 di 3 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 4, immagine 3 di 3
    • The bottom of the blender. Best place to go if you need your serial number.

    • Remove the two Phillips screws (deeply) recessed into the bottom housing.

    • Four side tabs hold the plastic bottom housing in place. Opening the blender is as easy as one, two, three, four.

    • The bottom housing is very ventilated -- essential for cooling the 1560W motor housed within.

  5. Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 5, immagine 1 di 1
    • There's another thin plastic cover underneath the main cover. Nothing too exciting yet.

    • The cover most likely directs air toward the vents in the bottom housing.

    • Notice all the free space. This is the type of device mostly unaffected by the trend to shrink all components as much as possible.

  6. Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 6, immagine 1 di 3 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 6, immagine 2 di 3 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 6, immagine 3 di 3
    • Now onto the fun stuff.

    • Connectors abound!

    • We begin by pulling out the power switch -- can't be too careful nowadays, especially with the recession and all...

    • Another spade connector lies underneath. We pulled that one out too.

    • Insert a spudger between the EMI power line filter and the case to separate the double sided tape. The unit comes right off after a couple of spudger twists.

  7. Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 7, immagine 1 di 3 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 7, immagine 2 di 3 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 7, immagine 3 di 3
    • Onto the logic board, which may be the most important of all the internal goodies. It regulates all the aspects of operation and safety for the device.

    • The logic board simply sits on brackets molded into the plastic housing. No screws!

    • Disconnect a couple of spade connectors from it, and slide it out a bit to reach the control panel ribbon cable connector.

    • Disconnect the control panel ribbon cable from the board. This should almost free the logic board from the rest of the blender.

  8. Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 8, immagine 1 di 2 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 8, immagine 2 di 2
    • Two more connectors, and the logic board is free to roam about the country!

  9. Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 9, immagine 1 di 3 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 9, immagine 2 di 3 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 9, immagine 3 di 3
    • Removing the speed sensor.

    • Aptly named, the speed sensor monitors the speed of the spinning shaft. Should things get out of hand, the sensor will shut off the motor.

    • The speed sensor uses inductive pickup to tell the control circuitry how fast the shaft is spinning. Inductive pickup is triggered by ferrous metal passing by in close proximity, causing a current to be induced in the pickup. This is really the same effect used by an electric guitar to pick up the string vibrations.

    • Blendtec informed us that the Total Blender includes what they call a "hammer-fire" system. The main microprocessor will trigger this system if it detects that the blade stopped spinning. The processor will send a series of strong electric pulses with the intent to free the blades from the obstruction. If that fails, it will shut off the motor to prevent any damage.

  10. Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 10, immagine 1 di 2 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 10, immagine 2 di 2
    • Remove two Phillips screws (of the four holding together the entire device) from the brush/slip ring housing.

    • These puppies didn't come out without a fight.

    • No wonder why -- they're over 3" long! Containing the inertia of the rotor spinning at 28,000 rpm is kind of important.

  11. Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 11, immagine 1 di 3 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 11, immagine 2 di 3 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 11, immagine 3 di 3
    • Remove the single nut from the fan end of the shaft.

    • A 3/8" Allen wrench conveniently fits into the splines at the other end of the shaft, making the nut removal a snap.

    • After removing the nut, the fan simply lifts off the shaft.

  12. Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 12, immagine 1 di 3 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 12, immagine 2 di 3 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 12, immagine 3 di 3
    • Use a flat blade screwdriver to 'walk' each of the two brass brush housings away from the motor shaft.

    • After the brass brush housings are separated from their housing, the brush spade connectors simply slide out.

  13. Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 13, immagine 1 di 2 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 13, immagine 2 di 2
    • Removing the brush/slip ring housing exposes the support ball bearings at the tail of the motor shaft.

    • The brass brush housing is connected to the pure carbon brush with a braided copper wire.

    • The carbon brushes normally wear out before the rest of the motor.

  14. Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 14, immagine 1 di 2 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 14, immagine 2 di 2
    • Lifting the stator out of the Blendtec.

    • The weld connecting the stack of metal plates creating the frame of the stator is just plain beautiful.

    WHY did you not show the label!

    Marcos Lima - Replica

  15. Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 15, immagine 1 di 2 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 15, immagine 2 di 2
    • Tracing the small black wire to the bottom of the stator and peeling back the tape reveals...

    • A thermistor!

    • The thermistor is used to monitor the temperature of the windings to avoid meltdown.

    • We're told that the motor temperature has to reach a maximum of 130 degrees Celsius (266 degrees Fahrenheit) before being shut off!

  16. Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 16, immagine 1 di 2 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 16, immagine 2 di 2
    • Just look at this rotor. If looks could kill, you just might get shot.

    • This a podracer engine is, hmm? Yeesssssss.

    • The two bearings are reported to be 608RS, which is a commonly available size. The upper bearing has a rubber sleeve over it in the photo.

    how I dissasembly the upper bearing????

    Alberto Alvarez - Replica

    OK.. I posted the same question earlier only to find out the solution in the next 30 mins.. So I wedged/pryed out the ring using a flat head screw driver. The ring tightly pinches the metal shaft and its only a matter of wedging it out.

    Sudhanshu Grover -

  17. Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 17, immagine 1 di 3 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 17, immagine 2 di 3 Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 17, immagine 3 di 3
    • The logic board.

    • First picture shows the shininess of the logic board. The board is clear-coated to prevent condensation from attacking the electronics.

    • The hi-res version of the board shows all the intricate details -- inductive pickup/rotor sensor plugs, the thermistor plug, etc.

    • The LCD panel is located on the back of the board, thus eliminating the need for any extra circuit boards.

    Where can to buy the new logic board?

    Cooper - Replica

    Hii .can u help me take out the bearing . I do not how to replace it

    Thong - Replica

  18. Blendtec Total Blender Teardown: passo 18, immagine 1 di 1
    • So ends the teardown of the Blendtec Total Blender. This is one of those devices that we are very leery about reassembling and using...

    • 13 Amps, generating 28,000 RPM (that's a 270 MPH blade tip speed) on a slightly-unbalanced shaft just strikes us as a bad idea!

    • The PS3 Slim works just fine after our teardown -- but it doesn't have razor-sharp blades.

    I for one would like to see it reassembled and tested...:)

    jmsaltzman - Replica

    You should put all the parts into another Blendtec blender, and see if they blend!

    justin600 - Replica

    Citazione da justin600:

    You should put all the parts into another Blendtec blender, and see if they blend!

    Genius!!!! ifixit should ask blendtec if they will do a vid of that... :)

    will - Replica

    And looking at the board, all of that logic is carried out by a MicroChip PIC16F877 - Nice chip!

    Dan - Replica

    Blendtec blades are actually blunt.

    Vince - Replica

35 Commenti

I bought a used ibc7 with a bit over 13,000 15 second cycles. The upper bearing was pretty gummed up and there was bearing dust (a rusty powdery substance) I have seen before when a bearing goes out blown through the engine compartment. looking at removing the socket? (the thing that receives the pitcher) shown in step 16. I think I need a vice with a 3/8 allen.

Also, I would recommend lubing the two bearings shown in step 16 now and again to increase the life of the blender. It would not require a full teardown. The rubber seals should pop open and a little cleaning and lube and all set. The bearings are 608rs which is a common available size.

kneelie - Replica

Has anyone figured out how to remove the drive socket so you can change out a rusty upper bearing. I've torn mine down to that point and now I'm stuck.

Justin -

Justin, There's a black plastic ring on the bottom that's sealed in place that holds a metal disk and the bearing in place. I used a dremel to remove the plastic ring and everything popped out easily. I'll have to epoxy it all back together.

David Gray -

what about fixing the 64 oz. Container when the metal cutter breaks which is often. A new container costs nearly $80 and we would love to know how to repair ours. You skip the cutter breaking in the jar. Can you help?

willie king - Replica

There is a new blender jar for Blendtec blenders which comes with a removable blade assembly easy to replace, creates versatility . It's the Alterna Jar.

Thomas - Replica

I just looked and can't find what you describe.

Rich Frown -

Any info on the motor? What are the ratings? The logic board doesn't look like it sports any voltage conversion hardware - so is this a straight 120v/60Hz motor? What is the operating range?

thanks!

rootless - Replica

What about replacing the seal and bearing in the Wild Side jars? We have lost 2 so far and at $110 for a replacement it is starting to really hurt! I just removed the assembly with a chisel and hammer, the jars are tough!!!, to see how it is assembled. I don't see a way of disassembling it in a fashion that I could then reassemble.

Rich Frown - Replica

Can anyone tell me where to buy replacement parts on this machine? Looking for a new speed sensor!

Vinnie Mese - Replica

Did you get it?, I think buy parts unit for parts

JJa -

I want to know how to dissasemble the upper bearing...how to take apart the sleeve is it screewedD or put in by pressure???

Alberto Alvarez - Replica

Hello Alberto,

Did you finally figure out how to dis-assemble the top ring ? Also.. do you know where to buy any spare parts for Blendtec ? I called up Blendtec and they clearly refused to send out any replacement parts saying that I need to send the blender and then they will estimate the repairs and will fix it if I agree to the repair charges. Its a CON company who wanna charge the customers crazy amounts of money and won’t let anybody else touch the machine.

Anyways.. please let me know if and how did you dis-assemble the top ring and get the rotor out.

Thanks

Sudhanshu Grover -

We just had the same issue and figured out how to remove the rotor from the housing without damaging anything. Use the 3/8” allen head socket that you used earlier to hold the rotor still when removing the metal fan assembly. Push the 3/8” allen socket into the top of the rotor and tap with a hammer or, preferably, press out the rotor from the top of the housing. Be careful here, as the rotor will drop down out of the housing. Use only the force needed to press the rotor out, otherwise the housing can get damaged. Good luck. Hope this helped.

Stephen Shaw -

I have a refurbished blendtec from I think a Starbucks, from before they they switched to Vitamix. Someone on here said their driver spline (for lack of a better term) was threaded on in reverse. Mine was pressed on and corroded as well as the upper bearing. I tried using a impact gun to spin it clockwise as someone said, but it just spun in place and then shattered. I used penetrating oil, and tried to pound off the remaining broken piece, but it wouldn't budge. I ended up using a cut off wheel on my dremel to cut off what was left of the driver spline and the upper bearing, which was also seized. I have a replacement bearing, but need a new drive spline. I think I'm screwed. Might have to buy a "for part" blendtec from ebay to get that piece. I'll call blendtec tomorrow, but it doesn't sound like they sell parts. Might have to fab something that mates with jar's male spline. Wish me luck.

Justin -

hello

can anyone tell me the vale of the capacitor CE2 next to the buzzer , I've just bought a broken express and someone has cut the cap off the board

thanks

jovius - Replica

The cap is 63V 100uF

Stephen Shaw -

I’ve removed the logic board and there is a clear silicone like substance on top of the cap. I’m going to order a cap and see if that solves my problem of loss of starting torque. Thanks for the teardown!!

Louis Webster -

thanks for the teardown

jovius - Replica

i am getting a code watchdog and timed out. what is that? and can it be easily fixed?

chas - Replica

Hello, would you mind letting me know where I can I buy the rotor part?

JENNY PARK - Replica

Will motor running without speed sensor?

where can you get parts?

JJa - Replica

My blendtec’s rotor spins but the socket doesn’t. How are the rotor and socket connected?

yuanming_zhang - Replica

OK. I was able to pull out the socket. It has some cracks. Anyone know where to get a replacement? I was thinking to weld it back but it would be difficult.

yuanming_zhang -

How did you remove the socket?

Yam CP -

ours only stops now by using the switch on the back, We switch it on then press any button on the front and it goes full speed, pressing any button to stop it on the front has no effect. Going to tear It down look for any burnt signs on the electronics, inspect the brushes and lube the bearing. It is 12 + year old and been really great to us. Thank you for the tear down and comments

igolten - Replica

I have the same issue as you, my blender is about 4 years old, with less than 400 cycles. I disassembled it didn't see any obvious issues with the board. My guess is that the there is a fault in the membrane of the keypad. when it first started happening it turned on when pressure was applied to the base as when the top lid was being pressed on. We now only rely on the power switch on the back as we are afraid that it may turn on when placing the jar may trigger it. Would never buy again.

Rick Ruano -

Ours makes insane sounds. Have taken it apart but couldn’t find the issue. The bearings run fine either end. Maybe it’s the fan hitting the inside of casing. Anyone had similar issue ?

zaki - Replica

Hi there, i hace a K-tec Blender ICB-5 42947 and I need the motherboard. Where can i find in miami Fl.?

Julio Choy - Replica

Where is the fuse located? How to change it?

Anna Mendoza - Replica

Blendtec is a poster child for the “Right to Repair” movement. They make no information or parts available, jealously protecting their own overpriced repair service for what would be a simple repair by a purchaser if he could source the part.

Scott Duink - Replica

As stated Push the 3/8” allen socket into the top of the rotor and tap with a hammer or, preferably, press out the rotor from the top of the housing. Be careful here, as the rotor will drop down out of the housing. Use only the force needed to press the rotor out, otherwise the housing can get damaged.  I pryed the lower bearing off with two flat head screw drivers, very slowly. For the top bearing I put a 1/2” wrench into a vice and put the rotor into the open end of the wrench behind the top bearing, I hammered the reverse thread spline gently to remove the top bearing. The spline as I said is reverse thread, I put the rotor in a vice with some protection on the windings and used the allen wrench to remove the spline, waiting for my $8 bearings to come in and see if I can get all back together and getting running again minus the terrible vibrations. Fingers crossed.

gerald-torres - Replica

I tried removing the spline (righty loosey) and the spline shattered. I was trying to replace my upper bearing, which had become corroded. I don't know if I can find a replacement spline. I'm bummed. I think I just ruined my blender.

Justin - Replica

Hello Justin,
Did you have any luck on how to fix this? I was able to remove the socket and replace the top bearing. Now I realize that the socket is simply spinning and I might have damaged the spline as well. Thank for your response.

Muru S -

Here is how.: Thanks to David Gray: There's a black plastic ring on the bottom that's sealed in place that holds a metal disk and the bearing in place. I used a dremel to remove the plastic ring and everything popped out easily. I'll have to epoxy it all back together.

Fide Ondarza - Replica

The blender I have does not have screws holding the motor on... I only have 73 uses and the motor burned out. I can send a photo of it it that helps.

Willy - Replica

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