Introduzione
Das Apple Thunderbolt Display, das aus den Feuergruben des Hephaestus selbst gefertigt und vom mächtigen Zeus auf die Erde hinabgestoßen wurde, kam vor der Tür des iFixit-Hauptquartiers an.
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Cooler Bonus: Hier ist ein Hintergrundbild von einem der Thunderbolt Display Chips, hergestellt in der nativen Auflösung des Thunderbolt Display von 2560 x 1440.
Cosa ti serve
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Beim Hammer des Thor! Mit dem neuen Thunderbolt Display in unseren Händen sieht die Zukunft rosig aus.
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27 Zoll TFT Active-Matrix LCD
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Auflösung: 2560 x 1440 Pixel
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Eingebauter Thunderbolt Anschluss und MagSafe-Kabel
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FaceTime-Kamera mit Mikrofon
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49 Watt 2.1 Lautsprecher
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Seitenverhältnis 16:9
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Das Thunderbolt Display verfügt über eine tolle Auswahl an USB-, HDMI-, VGA- und Displayport-Anschlüssen. Oh warte - falsches tausend-Dollar-Display.
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Die Rückseite des Thunderbolt Display hat nur eine kleine Zeile mit den folgenden Ports:
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Drei USB 2.0-Ports mit Stromversorgung
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FireWire 800 Port
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Thunderbolt Port
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Gigabit Ethernet Port
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Das Thunderbolt-Display kommt auch mit einem eingebauten Thunderbolt-Kabel, das an einem Universal MagSafe-Kabel befestigt ist.
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Ähnlich wie bei dem iMac, den wir Anfang des Jahres auseinandergenommen haben (und den iMacs davor), lässt sich die Frontglasscheibe des Thunderbolt Displays mithilfe einiger Heavy Duty Saugheber lösen.
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Es ist an der Zeit, einen Blick unter die Haube zu werfen. Mithilfe unseres Mako Precision Bit Set entfernen wir ein paar Schrauben (12, um genau zu sein, aber wer zählt schon) aus ihrem Gewinde.
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Ein paar Steckverbinder und eine Erdungsschraube sind alles, was das LCD jetzt noch hält.
There are three ribbon cables to disconnect before you can lift the display up to access the screw for the ground wire. The middle picture is misleading, at least on my monitor--you could only tilt up the display panel a couple of inches before you put strain on the ribbon cables. (Not a fan of this writing style at the expense of useful detail)
The instructions/photos do not match my experience removing the LCD panel from an Apple Thunderbolt 27” Display. I am posting more details for anyone new to these kind of projects.
Orient the display so that the LCD is facing up, and the top of the display (e.g. webcam edge of frame) is closest to you. Remove 12 screws (4 screws from left/right/top edges). Lift top edge from frame about two inches to access/disconnect four cables: 1) remove center ground w/ T10 bit, 2) remove small center cable by pulling away from board, 3) remove larger center data ribbon by pulling up to release very tiny latching mechanism then gently pull ribbon out of socket, 4) remove left-most ribbon by pressing from underneath to release clip/catch and pulling ribbon away from board.
After four cables are disconnected, I was able to carefully lift LCD panel away from frame to make sure no other cables are connected or snagged on LCD panel. Done!
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Das 27-Zoll TFT-Aktivmatrix-LCD hat eine Auflösung von 2560 x 1440 Pixel, was dem Standard für Displays dieser Größe und dieses Preises entspricht. Seine Reaktionszeit von 12 ms und 16,7 Millionen Farben bleiben jedoch hinter der Reaktionszeit von 6 ms und 1,07 Milliarden Farben des vergleichbaren Displays von Dell zurück.
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Wir könnten hier vielleicht Haarspalterei betreiben, aber diese Haare würden mit 1.053.300.000 Farben weniger auf Apples Bildschirm angezeigt werden. Ich meine ja nur.
It's important to note that Dell's "comparable" display is more expensive (when not on sale), does not connect via Thunderbolt, does not have built-in speakers, lacks a MagSafe connector for powering your MacBook, and is devoid of any data port other than USB. Dell's display is a really, really sweet 27" display. Apple's display is probably still the nicest panel you've ever seen, and is also a complete, single-cable docking solution for your MacBook.
Those are very valid points, Matthew. Apple makes it very clear who they are targeting with this device: people who purchased one of this year's Thunderbolt-enabled Macs. They have never pretended to be a peripherals company, and they do not try to capture any other part of the market. We just wanted to show how for a similar price point you can either go with Apple and get OEM integration and proprietary connectors, or you can choose Dell and get versatility.
1.07 billion colors are only possible with 10-bit color support: Apple doesn't support 10-bit color (yet) in their operating system(s) so far, and haven't made any comments suggesting that they plan to.
So, unfortunately, it would be a waste of one's money if they were to purchase a high-gamut display (like the Sharp 4K monitor that Apple currently offers with the Mac Pro) as the operating system will only render 8-bit color (16.7 million colors) on the display. It makes more sense for a Mac user to buy a cheaper monitor that supports 16.7 million colors, as those displays tend to be ⅓ of the price of those that support 1.07 billion colors.
As a professional who requires high-gamut color support, I found this pretty disappointing and sent Apple a plea to introduce this feature at https://www.apple.com/feedback/macosx.ht....
Note: Windows has supported 10-bit color since Windows 7... Come on Apple!
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Auf der Rückseite des LC-Displays befinden sich nur wenige Kabel, nichts allzu Aufregendes:
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DisplayPort
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LED Hintergrundbeleuchtung
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LED Hintergrundbeleuchtungs Synchronization
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Masseschleife
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Die LG-Anzeige hat die Modellnummer LM270WQ1. Ist es möglich, dass wir diese Modellnummer schon einmal gesehen haben?
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Ja, es scheint dasselbe Display zu sein, das im iMac Intel 27" vom Oktober 2009 zu finden ist, sowie dasselbe Basis-LG-Display, das auch im konkurrierenden 27"-Monitor von Dell zu finden ist, obwohl die Apple-Version LED-Hintergrundbeleuchtung im Gegensatz zu Dells traditionellem CCFL verwendet.
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Die Version von Dell ist ebenfalls matt, etwas, worauf viele Mac-Benutzer nach dem Auslaufen des alten 30-Zoll-Cinema Displays immer wieder hingewiesen haben.
The back of the LCD display has only a few cables, none too exciting:
* DisplayPort
* LED backlight
* LED backlight sync
* Ground loop.
I can't see any of these on any photos associated to this step.
Cable on far left with large black connector and a bunch of wires: LED Backlight
Cable with shiny metallic flat connector (which is a flimsy piece of crap connector): Displayport
Small cable with black connector: LED backlight sync
Two wires which go into the screw grommet: ground loop
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Stopp - es ist Stecker-Zeit! Wir entfernen eine Unmenge von Steckverbindern vom Logic Board und lassen nur das Gehirn hinter dem Thunderbolt-Port zwischen uns und dem Kontrollzentrum des Displays zurück.
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Einige T6-Torx-Schrauben werden herausgeschlagen, um die Steckerabdeckung zu entfernen, und das Thunderbolt-Kabel wird entfernt.
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Interessanterweise wird das Thunderbolt-Kabel, das in die Anzeige führt, auch an einen Standard Thunderbolt-Port angeschlossen. Apple hätte die Kabeldrähte einfach an die Platine anlöten können, entschied sich aber stattdessen für die Verwendung einer Abdeckung, die verhindert, dass das Kabel vom Thunderbolt-Sockel gelöst werden kann.
When upgraded (optical) Thunderbolt cables become available, it will conceivably be possible to upgrade the display by replacing the cable. Remember, the transceiver is in the cable.
Before anyone starts tearing down their Thunderbolt Display to replace the Thunderbolt cable with a new one (like I did): a much easier alternative is to plug a standard Thunderbolt cable into the Thunderbolt port at the back of the display. Apparently it’ll work just fine. The only catch is if you happen to need that port for something else.
Thank you soooo much ! You saved me from opening my old but functional Thunderbolt Display when a careless moment led to the Thunderbolt connector on the computer end of the cable being damaged. Just plugged in a Thunderbolt cable to the port on the back of the display. That’s how a good Thunderbolt design should work, but in my stress about getting the tools to fix it I didn't stop and engage my brain.
Really appreciated your comment…
Russell.
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St. Damiens Bart! Auf der Vorderseite der Logic Boards befinden sich diese Dinge:
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Pericom PI7C9X440SL PCIe-to-USB 2.0 host controller
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L129NB11 EFL, der wie der Thunderbolt Port-Controller aussieht (wie auf dem zweiten Bild zu sehen)
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Audioprozessor für analoge Geräte ADAV4601
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NXP LPC2144 USB 2.0-Mikrocontroller
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Delta LFE9249 10/100/1000 Basis-T-LAN-Filter
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SMSC USB2517-JZX USB 2.0-Hub-Steuerung
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LPC 1114F
It's interesting to see the TB circuit board. Have you tried to find an Apple P/N for this board? In your opinion, is this what a vendor would need to simulate to build their own TB breakout box (along with a power supply)? Vendors keep saying it's going to be expensive to implement TB. From the looks of this circuit board, I might agree, however the range of I/O devices you get on this board is amazing.
The LPC2144 also generates the three PWM signals for the HV9982.
(and - I guess - the EDID codes ans misc. others).
This is interesting, because I suspect this chip to be the culprit in the cases of failing backlight.
If it holds no firmware, it should be quite straightforward (and cheap) simply to replace the chip.
L129NB11 EFL chip seems to be Intel CV82524EF (Light Ridge) Thunderbold Controller.
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Beim Spatel der süßen Großmutter! Die Rückseite des Boards enthält auch Unmengen von Chips:
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Maxim MAX9736B Mono-/Stereo-Hochleistungsklasse-D-Verstärker MAX9736B
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Texas Instruments LC573A D-Typ-Verriegelung
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Silego SLG8SP568VCK505 Taktgeber
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LSI L-FW643E-2 Open Host Controller Interface
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Broadcom BCM57761 Gigabit-Ethernet-Controller
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Texas Instruments NH245 Doppelversorgungsübersetzer NH245
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Supertex HV9982 3-Kanal-Schaltmodus-LED-Treiber-IC
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Heiße Kanne Kaffee! Schauen wir mal, was die Stromversorgungsplatine des Thunderbolt Displays für uns tun kann.
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Wie wäre es mit 250 Watt maximaler Dauerleistung - ist das genug?
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Eine lustige wissenschaftliche Tatsache ist, dass "Thunderbolts" (engl. Blitze) in der Natur durchschnittlich 1.000.000.000.000.000 Watt abgeben können, das ist 4 Milliarden Mal die Leistung der Stromversorgung des Thunderbolt Displays! Aber seien wir fair ... Blitze sind viel größer als diese Stromversorgung und dauern nur Bruchteile von Sekunden.
Same question. I’m grappling with a “lights out” display which is still recognized by my computer and I believe it could be the power supply to the screen which has conked out. Any ideas out there?
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Wir sehen einige ziemlich große Lautsprechergehäuse (nun ja, für einen Monitor) in der Nähe der Seitenkanten des Thunderbolt Displays und entfernen die Schrauben, die sie an ihrem Platz halten.
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Warte! Was haben wir hier? Ist das auch ein eingebauter 1-Zoll-Subwoofer?
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Im Grunde genommen wird dein Monitor ungefähr so klingen. Okay, also vielleicht nicht, aber du bekommst einen ziemlich anständigen Ton aus diesem Bad Boy heraus.
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Die Vorderseite des Kameraboards:
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cFeon LV010-45RNIP 11113A 1110ADA
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Die Rückseite des Kameraboards:
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Vimicro VC0338BSMCB Kamera-Controller
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Texas Instruments TPS65708 Stromverwaltungseinheit
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0BNHM7
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408F N109
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T120 Bd01
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Onkel Jonathans Maiskolbenpfeife! Nur ein paar Torx-10-Schrauben stehen zwischen uns und dem AC-Netzteil.
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Der AC-Inlet in all seiner unendlichen Pracht.
Before you can do this step, you will need to remove the 4 screws holding the subwoofer on top and move it aside.
Would be nice if there were instructions on removing the thunderbolt cable. Beware that the grounded screw is the short one with the fine thread. Also note that the screws are going into plastic mounts which are easily stripped.
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Das Thunderbolt Display bekommt auf unserem Reparierbarkeits-Index 8 von 10 Punkten (10 ist am einfachsten zu reparieren)
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Nur T6- und T10-Torx-Schrauben halten es zusammen, was bedeutet, dass für die Wartung nur minimale Werkzeuge erforderlich sind.
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Die minimale Verwendung von Klebstoffen bedeutet, dass der Zusammenbau einfacher und sauberer sein wird.
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Die Frontglasscheibe und das LCD sind leicht zu entfernen, und wichtige Komponenten werden bei der Entfernung freigelegt.
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Du bauchst Saugnäpfe, um das Frontglas zu entfernen, was schlecht enden könnte, wenn es nicht richtig gemacht wird.
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Die Demontage war zwar sehr einfach, aber es gibt eine Menge Teile, Kabel und Steckverbinder, so dass ein vollständiger Zusammenbau nichts für schwache Nerven ist.
“While disassembly was very straightforward, there are a lot of parts, cables and connectors, making full reassembly not for the faint of heart.”
Especially using this teardown, which unlike most of the great guides here on iFixit, seems to favor levity over usefulness. It wouldn’t have been much more work to actually label things so it would be easier to know exactly what to do. Shame
Ass seen at the top of this page “This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Apple Thunderbolt Display, use our ++service manual++.” Teardowns are meant to be entertaining looks into a device, they are not intended to be step-by-step manuals.
Exactly what I need. Clear explanations, useful pictures. Perfect as usual
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36 Commenti
OMG, through hole components on the power supply board! And hand smeared silicon glue! How could 20 years of technology gap exist in a leading Apple product? Bob, that Flextronics board needs to come off. I'm not buying until then.
Every SPS is using the glue to pass the safety, you can choose not to buy anything with a SPS
Would you like to try developing a SMPS, which has to deal with hundreds of watts of current, using only surface mount components? Go on, give it a try. We will wait.
Question re: "Interestingly enough, the Thunderbolt cable that routes into the display also plugs into a standard Thunderbolt socket on the logic board."
Would it then be possible to install a 3rd party Thunderbolt "external" HD inside the monitor by simply connecting it to the socket on the logic board, then daisy chaining another thunderbolt cable to the external port? Is there enough space?
Ok, I know this comment is pretty old, but it looks like there's plenty of spaces to put a 2.5" drive but I doubt you could fit a 3.5" one.
Skylar -
Is there a way to convert the thunderbolt to a display port so that the screen can be used both for a Macbook and a PC laptop?
I kinda think that Apple may allow Mac Minis run on MagSafe ports, and re-design the display's base to exactly fit a Mac Mini in (even include some screws and holes/nuts to allow users permanently connect their Mac Mini to the display). This combinition will definitely profit, and even can obsolote iMacs
Some more complicated redesign may include an optical drive into the display and can be accessed through Thunderbolt - makes the display combined with a Mac Mini totally an iMac.
You can't reasonably put a MagSafe port on a device that isn't battery-powered, and Apple has never put a system power battery into a desktop machine. Apple has never put external do-it-yourself mounting screwholes in a machine. Apple is in the process of removing optical drives from their hardware, not adding them. Except for the short-lived PowerBook Duo, Apple machines have always been designed to stand alone, not as an assembly.
If you want an iMac, just get an iMac. I'm impressed that you know enough about Apple's design, manufacturing, and market positioning to know what design changes will "definitely profit", even though it would "obsolete" their only consumer desktop line, but I don't see much consistency here with any other decisions Apple has made.
no way -
IFIXIT, I have a question!!! I'm the creative director of a video production company and I'm looking for a new monitor. I've always considered Apple displays to be too overpriced, but I was utterly shocked to be informed by a third tier Apple tech support guru that these displays had an IPU on their logic board to handle the load if your computers GPU get's bogged down. I've only found two other unconfirmed rumors of this.
When you tore down that display like Mel Gibson does to Jewish people and wives, did you by chance any such corroborating evidence?
No, that sounds like a load of BS. None of those ICs look to have any kind of graphics processing ability, but I'm not iFixit :P
Skylar -
I have the similar problem with the Thunderbolt 27 Inch Backlight. The Mac recognize the Display but have not picture. I see today the supply of the mosfet elements for the LED backlight have 25V but have not siglans from the HV9982.
Anyone to have this problem? ohcnad13 at yahoo dot com
I was looking to replace the glass apple logo with an led one. I have my thunderbolt display apart and as you can see in the last photo of this guide, there seems to be a silver foil over it. I do not want to tamper with it, but does anyone know if I will ruin anything if i take that foil off thats stuck to the metal frame? It appears that the apple logo is just glass, and that the foil on the inside is so sealed that it makes the apply logo look black. Any comments?
I need a new power cord for my 27" Thunderbolt Monitor. Is is the same one that is used on many iMacs? It looks the same. Do you know the part number or where I can order one?
Would anyone know if the Thunderbolt 661-6028 panel would work in a non thunderbolt case with part number 661-5542? It looks as if it should connect right up.
the thin 2 wires with the small board attached and adhered to the case a few inches to the left of the power cable hole. I have only found that on one monitor though they all have the port on the motherboard it is just empty on all the ones sans the thin wires and board adhered to the case. My question is... What is it and why is it not on all the displays??
The 1/4 inch square board adhered to the back of the case 4 inches to the left of power cable hole 1/2 inch to the right of 1 1/2 inch square black foam adhered to the case. Can be seen in image #20. The connected two thin wires are routed up and around hinge assembly. It connects to the second port down on the visible side of the motherboard. The port is on all motherboards but I have only found one display that has this small board, all other displays leave this port empty and do not have this configuration.
T Mac -
T Mac - I believe the item you speak of is a temperature sensor. On my display it is attached to the back side of the LCD panel itself and gets unplugged from the logic board during the panel removal (which is why the port appears to be empty in the other photos you've seen). At some point Apple must have switched from mounting it on the back of the case to mounting it on the back side of the LCD.
OK, mine died following the electrician switching the power off then on a couple of times. Given the there is no power on the external power connecter I'm assuming the power supply is gone. But are there embedded fuses in there that are likely to be the culprits?
Hi, I appreciate the teardown here.
I recently had a problem with my Thunderbolt Display turning black after short period of usage. Ranged from minutes to hours. The display was still recognized by the computer, it's just that the screen was black. After turning it in for repair a technician said it was the logic board, and changed it and charged me. It worked for a couple of days and then the same problem was back. This time the repair shop says it's the LCD display. My hunch is that it was the LCD all the time. My question, even though a bit vague: would my computer be able to recognize a display with faulty logic board? It feels like I'm being tricked by the repair shop.
Often only parts of the logic board go faulty. The logic board in this unit is really a hybrid of several circuits, all running off thunderbolt. You may see that the Display Audio, Display Ethernet works when the display doesn’t and vice versa. The backlight power circuit is also on the logic board. It may have been both parts replaced were faulty, or just the display.
My 27'“ Thunderbolt just gives me a dark screen and 3 vertical line in the middle of the screen. Each about 1/2 inch wide 2 dark with a ligher line in between. Do you think just replacing the LCD would work for this problem.
Thanks
Challenged
Does anyone know of a female to female thunderbolt 1 or 2 inline adapter so you could create a longer thunderbolt cable with 2 cables and the F to F adapter ? Or is it possible to extend a TB cable with 2- TB to ethernet adapters ? Someone told me that it is possible to extend TB with 2- TB to HDMI adapters and i tried that and it absolutely does not work. At least not going from back of iMac TB port to TB port on back of TB Display. Note that it does work from the back of iMac to back of TB display TB port with a regular TB cable. To try this with 2- TB to HDMI adapters to the pigtail off the TB display you would need a F to F inline adapter. I have looked for an inline adapter F-F for TB and it does not seem to exist. The reason i’m trying to do this is i have an iMac with a trashed screen that i can’t source anywhere and i’m using a TB Display now in mirror mode and they are right next to each other taking up a lot of desk real estate. Or maybe theres as F-M TB extension cable ? Corning optics are $$$$$
Do you know where I can get a power supply for a 27” thunderbolt display monitor I have two of them both have power supply issues and I am not sure where to get it from? any online stores anyone is aware of?
Does the power cable disconnect too? (The thick grey cable used to attach to macbooks, etc)
I had the stand removed and was fiddling around with the spring mechanism and caused it to retract into the case. I can’t figure out how to get the spring to release so the “mounting block” becomes available again. Anyone know how? Do I need to open up the display and access the spring mechanism from the inside? Thanks
Pretty much. I did this too by mistake and it was a pain to fix. On the plus side I now better know where the latch is physically positioned within that slot to allow you to swivel mounting block. It wasn’t too bad to fix.
patrick -
Poke a thin piece of plastic in (credit card eg) until you release the latches.
Hi. It’s possible to switch the LCDs between imac mid 2011 and a thunderbolt apple display 27 “?
Does anyone know whether I could port this display’s logic board and power supply into an empty iMac chassis (late 2013)? If so, any recommendations on display panels? Assuming the logic board and power supply are compatible, would the stock iMac display work? Many thanks!
Is it possible to tale the stand off, separate it from the frame?
Yes, it is. In step 18 you can see the hinge in the upper part of the picture. There you can unscrew some screws (I think there were eight) and then separate the stand from the rest of the case.
AaSchmi -
Hi! my apple cinema display made an explosion sound and fainted to dark. No smoke or smell. Any idea of what might have gone wrong?
Your step-by-step is really helpful to understand this almost hermetic device.
“The future is looking bright”…
7 years later, this monitor is long since discontinued but still the last monitor apple has made. They sell mac minis and mac pros with no matching displays at all, only 3rd party displays and adapters. And those mac minis I mentioned are a 4 year old model, and the mac pro is a 5 year old model.
The future looked bright. It was an illusion.
John M - Replica
The link attached to Thor is no longer valid.
Sebastiaan Mutsaers - Replica