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The Western Digital My Passport Ultra is a USB 3.0 portable storage device with capacities from 500 GB up to 5 TB.

1 TB WD Passport Ultra dropped on floor, switches on, but...

Hello there. Today I unfortunately dropped my Western Digital My Passport Ultra (1TB) on the floor. It dis-assembled, and I was able to re-assemble it just fine.

Upon plugging it in via USB, it powers on, and doesn't make any unusual sounds, just the usual fan-like noise and general soft click-tick when locating data.

The white indicator light at the front stayed on for a good 1-2 mins which was unusual, but it just didn't come up on the windows file explorer to view.

After around 2 minutes, it was recognised only as "Local Disk" rather than the Western Digital passport, but then this changed and is now displaying as "My Passport Ultra" on Windows Explorer... However its just relatively much slower than usual, and as I'm typing this, is likely it will time-out trying to load on Windows (I tried opening one of the folders a few minutes ago, and its still loading).

I'm not sure what to do, its nearly filled to capacity, and I'm hoping I can get everything onto a new drive, but is there a way to restore it physically to its pre-dropped condition? Its strange as nothing shattered or came off it, and it was dropped on a wooden surface, but I presume something has just come loose...

Any ideas on what I can do?

Update: after around 4-5 minutes it displayed this error:

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Unfortunately, it looks like the HDD is borked (Broken). I would recommend using an SSD rather than an HDD. SSDs are far less likely to fail when dropped.

There is no way to safely repair HDDs because the moment you remove that top cover you have contaminated it. The only way to get your data back is by sending it to a professional data recovery shop. Which are expensive and don't promise anything.

That I/O device error could mean the HDD not being able to read the internal disks anymore.

I recommend these:

Samsung T7 Portable SSD ($159 USD)

Western Digital 1TB Elements SE ($79 USD)

Or you can make one yourself to save some money:

Crucial BX500 1TB ($63 USD)
SABRENT 2.5 Inch SATA to USB 3.0 ($12 USD)

Total : $75 USD

Sorry about your data. Happy iFixing!

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Ah. Did the same thing to mine. Thanks for the info. I will be sure to buy an SSD this time.

da

Yeah. As well as being more durable, SSDs are also way faster than HDDs.

da

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Needless to say I'm quite devastated as I type this, I've memories captured on it since 2004, and what's worse, is I recently did buy a 2TB WD passport, which I believe is SSD, but didn't think to backup my existing 1TB onto it, despite there being ample space.

What's even worse, is that I made the mistake of checking a couple of YouTube videos, one of which made the apparent recommendation of knocking the drive on its side a couple of times (as I genuinely concurred that the drive just had something that had loosened, it was otherwise fine, so I figured this would re-lodge something, serves me right for being impatient) and now its making a slightly louder clicking noise than one I'd recorded before...).

I appreciate the options, and now I need to try and find a reputable data engineering service in London to just retrieve the data onto a new external drive or my existing 2TB, after which I plan to place this older 1TB on a mantlepiece somewhere to serve as a reminder to just, wait...

What's worse is, this little bugger of a 1TB that slipped its way our of my hands earlier today has accompanied me to many continents and has been happily squashed and compressed near other items in the past... It beggars belief, what a day.

I'm not sure if sound clips can be uploaded here, but will try tomorrow. Its dinner time, I need to take my mind off this and come back it later on, as I should have done!

Thanks again.

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I'm super sorry man. That has gotta suck.

I hope you take my advice and buy one of the SSDs I recommended.

da

You can upload the sound clips to other websites and post the link here, anyway if the drive clicks after dropping, it’s always a dangerous physical problem and keep trying to power on could result in misaligned parts literally grinding the recording layer off from the platters. DO NOT keep it powered on for too long.

da

Thanks both, I really appreciate the info an am about to purchase one of the recommend drives as a "non-travelling" backup that I won't be at risk of dropping in a cafe! Lol..

I've heard Toshiba's are the best when it comes to external hard drives... Any opinion on that?

da

@oneofmanyl39015 Yes. I have had many Toshiba laptops and HDDs over the years. Good brand. But the drives I suggested in my answer are a better option.

da

Appreciate it thanks, WD it is!

da

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Appreciate your help in the comments thanks BTL.

One for the thread - I decided to immediately return the purchased drive. Not to worry as it wasn't purchased directly via the link you provided (since I'd need to use UK Amazon) but I searched for the same thing on my side.

Unfortunately, I immediately suspected it could be a knock-off, there are some pics below for anyone else who may come across this thread.

I'm not sure whether to report the seller, but its quite staggering that Amazon still don't seem to be paying attention to matters such as these, especially considering the listing I bought it from had a "visit the WD Store" link on it, which would heavily imply that the seller for that particular listing was selling genuine products.

Much like I did with my most recent WD 2TB purchase I'm going to purchase direct from WD instead, as they delivery it securely too (this latest one was simply placed in an amazon A4 card slip with no padding or paper! I appreciate its an SSD not an HDD but still, don't treat it like a flash drive!).

Maybe I'm wrong, but for a 2TB SSD at £125 I wasn't going to take the risk, so I thankfully got my refund.

Again to re-iterate, this was not purchased via the link BTL posted earlier ^

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Yeah. That was a fake. If you just buy from Amazon you won't have to worry about your data. I don't know why you didn't do that first. Did you have a problem with Amazon? These are regular Amazon links not affiliate ones. I make no money off these.

da

Ill update the links for the UK.

:3

da

Huh. It seems that the price of the 2tb ssd is around £103. So maybe that was a real drive. Anyway here is the UK drive from the official WD store.

https://amzn.eu/d/8ZXrpO6

You can convert a US Amazon link to UK one by removing the "m" from .com and adding .uk to the end of that. Eg. .co.uk.

Cheers! :3

da

Thanks for the tip, will try that in future with non-UK Amazon links. To be honest this most recent experience with Amazon has made me not trust that platform and I'd rather just buy from WD direct or from a UK store like Currys et al. Funnily enough I still haven't purchased a new one yet! Still looking to fix the existing drive one day and may purchase one through doing that.

da

To clarify - the fake hard drive I showed was purchased from Amazon.

da

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I assume when the drop occurred, it running? Otherwise, there would not have been a head crash. Since Windows can't mount it, the problem would be that the MLB track (track 0) has been damaged. The question is how much of that information is eventually accessible. I have had some success in the past with cooling down the drive in the freezer and trying it when cold. That may change the alignment just enough to read the data. I would suspect that most of the rest of the drive is readable once you get past that.

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Hi Bill, no it wasn't plugged in/running when I'd dropped it. I can certainly try the freezer thing and go from there. When I plug it in, Windows does recognise it but only to a certain extent, and the files aren't actually loaded. I'm apprehensive about powering it up again as I've been made aware that it could cause further damage.

da

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Hello there

I've an update to this matter. I took the drive to a local data recovery specialist, who very kindly provided a free diagnostic of the issue. I'd decided against proceeding due to the value of the quote, but very usefully understood that the issue lied in damaged read and write heads in the drive, meaning it can no longer be properly read and wouldn't mount. My understanding of this is that whilst the OS recognises the drive is there, it can't actually access it due to this physically endured damage.

So I'm now on the journey of attempting a DIY repair, and thought where better to enquire about it than this wonderful community?

Could anyone disseminate invaluable knowledge as to how I may go about:

  1. Sourcing the required components and tools to conduct the repair.
  2. Any known methods or guides out there that would enable me to complete it.

Thanks for taking the time to read this, and I look forward to any responses.

OOML.

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DO NOT do this. The required tools costs $10k minimum, it is ABSOLUTELY NOT POSSIBLE to DIY.

da

To start out with, you will need a clean room.

probably a high power magnifying glass and a bunch of standard tools.

You will also need some new platters.

You may be able to recover the data on those platters if you can swap them into an identical drive and have some specialized software to just read the drive without actually mounting it.

Bottom line, it is not repairable, except by the factory, and they would just toss it and sell you a new one.

With the hit that drive took, the heads, which are normally a few thousandths of an inch from the platter surface, slapped the platters and dislocated themselves from their drive mechanism. That is called a head crash.

The reason Windows sees it, is because it queries the electronics in the drive. That has nothing to do with the heads or platters.

da

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OneOfManyLondoners sarà eternamente grato.
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