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Repair guides and troubleshooting for the Whirlpool Quiet Partner II insulated dishwasher.

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Water spraying from nylon radial bearing and lower arm seal

My dishwasher is whirlpool quiet partner 2. Made it operate with the door open by depressing latch with coat hanger. Bottom spray arm is delivering water out all the jets (about 3”) but is not spinning. I’m seeing that water is also spraying out everywhere around the nylon radial bearing and from around the plastic arm seal underneath the arm. Would that indicate the nylon bearing and arm seal are worn down? I have taken all these parts out, cleaned the sump, chopper, filter and arm. Prior was only coming out of spray arm jets but still not spinning. Appears it has better water delivery now but is spraying out from under the bearing and arm seal

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Hi @washertroubles,

What is the model number of the dishwasher?

da

Model Du960pwkq1

da

On second disassembly, noted the spring of chopper blade to be misshapen and spring seat in the plastic impeller shaft to be worn out, chunks missing. Ordered the impeller kit. Symptoms of the washer are lower arm does not rotate, it’s jets are only spraying 3” high though the separator and arm is completely clean. Water sprays out of separator screen very well. Water sprays out from under the upper nylon radial bearing of the lower arm and there’s no water. Coming from upper rack spray arm. With the upper rack removed, there is no water coming from it’s fitting. Prior to the dishwashers final breakdown (thermal fuse blew mid-cycle) the upper rack got clean but the lower rack did not because the arm would stop spinning though it was still spraying. Removed screws (they came from pots and pans, not the washer hardware) and broken glass from the chopper, cleaned separator that was 90% clogged with paper pulp, replaced the fuse with whirlpool genuine part. Now it currently operates this way. The washer is otherwise very clean of grime and scale because I use phosphated detergent in it like the formulas available in the 90s when the washer was new.

da

@washertroubles

Not sure if you mean that it is still happening after installing a new impeller or that you're still waiting to do so.

If new part not installed see how it goes once installed.

If a new impeller was installed I'm wondering if the wash motor is OK i.e. providing enough water pressure to force the spray arms to rotate.

Just curious if there was a tech sheet in a plastic folder behind the kick plate (toe plate) in the dishwasher. Usually there is one there. If so it shows how to run the diagnostics which may help.

da

@jayeff Havent gotten new impeller kit yet. The nylon bushing and arm seal have arrived and yea, the old ones are noticeably thinned out. Couldn’t find that service sheet. I have another manual meant for users, it doesn’t get into repair/service other than to say call qualified technician.

If that debris, screws and glass bound up the chopper could that make the fuse blow? like motor was pulling more current due to being bound up? I’m also curious if the lower arm (metal) touching the heating element could have made fuse blow?

There is the slightest amount of radial play in pump motor shaft. It would prob be .02mm feeler gauge. Unknown if this is an allowable tolerance or indicates pump is on its way out.

da

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@washertroubles

Definitely if motor jamming it may get hot enough to blow a fuse.

It may depend on how good the insulation is on the heater. Water conducts as well so I don't think that the spray arm would cause it and if so I think you would notice a "flash burn mark" on either the arm where it hit or the heater

If you want to spend a bit more here's the tech sheet for the dishwasher that may help ;-) They usually have the wiring diagrams as well as the diagnostics. Don't think they have the individual parts mechanical specifications, tolerances etc though.

The tech sheet is Whirlpool part # LIT8528833 but I can't find it anywhere online for free

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@jayeff wow thanks for the tech sheet!

Impeller kit arrived. Installed it and new lower arm seal and nylon bearing, lot less wobble in lower arm now. Jets from lower arm got a littler bit taller, 7” estimate. And the arm was moving again but very slowly. No water from upper arm. So I’m just staring at it for about 2 minutes, operating with door open feeling defeated and all at once it went… WHOOOSH! lower jets spraying all the way up to interior ceiling of washer, spinning fast and soaked me and the upper arm began working. !&&* yea!

da

Hi @washertroubles

Hopefully it stays that way. Fingers crossed ;-)

Its sounds like the pump initially wasn't turning fast enough (water pressure drives the spray arms) and then came good so since it was a new impeller and IF you have the tech sheet AND hopefully it gives the electrical specs i.e. resistance of pump motor windings, and the strip wiring diagram for the circulation pump motor, if it fails again maybe check the pump and pump operate circuit (corroded connection perhaps)

Cheers

da

Will be using tech sheet after all. Its operating marginally again. With new parts, its “marginal” mode is improved though. DMM was at work at this point, decide to try contact cleaning first. Cleaned contacts for door switch with file. no change. pulled washer out planning to clean other contacts, unplug it first bc got shocked unhooking door switch, and found it’s hardwired into the wall… with a green wire that goes into cabinet under sink to ground on plumbing. …That’s nice.

da

@washertroubles

Maybe check the resistance of the circulation pump motor winding (if only the one winding) or if there is a run capacitor associated with it, it may be the problem.

If it is your property that you're living in, perhaps investing in having a GFCI installed in the power box for the power outlets/fixed wiring appliances etc may be wise. You may have just been lucky this time and only got a shock.

Electricity is a dangerous servant and a fearful master if not treated with respect. Don't give it any chances ;-)

da

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Judith sarà eternamente grato.
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