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Ice maker still not working after replacement

Whirlpool wrf757sdem01: Recently replaced ice maker because of no ice production. After 48 hrs still no ice. Ran diagnostic 45 to force water into tray. That worked, waited and forced ice harvest. That worked, but did not fill the tray with water after. Tried again but could not force the water to fill the tray, I heard a pump running and it sounded like it was filling but the tray was dry. Ran the following tests 56=E2 & E3, 57=20 with very loud motor sound, then shows 02, 59=10 then 02, 58=02 then 12. I forced #19 fill tube & fascia heater and let it run for about 1 minute. I am now able to force fill the ice tray with water and it harvested on its own after a while but the tray did not refill.

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Out of left field maybe but check if the refrigerator door switch is OK.

I know with some Whirlpool models that the water and ice dispenser won't work if a door is open so maybe it won't fill either. Just a thought


So, the door water works when the doors are closed. Could it still be the switch? I feel like if it was the switch it would have other affects. Does that make sense?


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The other effect is if the light was staying on when the door was closed.

However, looking at the schematic in the tech sheet that I have since found for your model (Whirlpool part #W10832298 - hopefully correct) it only shows a single switch and a thermistor in the ice box circuitry (see image) so I’m wondering where the sensor for Service Test 15 is? (see p.3 of the sheet).

If the switch shown is the “sensor” then as it appears to be in the icemaker and since you have replaced that, you may have to trace the icemaker’s violet and yellow wires (pins 2 & 7 respectively in ice box harness socket ) back to the mainboard connector P7/4 grey wire and P7/3 yellow. Note that the violet wire is on the icemaker side and it becomes a grey wire on the harness side.

Alternatively, disconnect the power to the fridge and then unplug the P7 wire harness on the mainboard and place an Ohmmeter across wires 3 & 4 of the plug and check if there is a short circuit when the tray is full of water or maybe if it is empty - I don’t know which way it would be used, so test it both ways, full and empty - one way should measure 0.00Ω (Ohms) i.e. short circuit and the other should be OL i.e. open circuit. Hopefully you can still fill it using the test modes if not then perhaps you can manually fill it another way.

If you can’t fill the tray at all:

Then measure each of the two wires from end to end with the ohmmeter i.e. icemaker harness socket to mainboard P7 plug, to check for continuity.

If you can fill the tray then when measuring at the P7 harness plug:

If it measures short circuit and then open circuit (depending on whether it is full or empty - remember I don’t know which way it should test for each condition) then the problem is on the mainboard. This may also show on Service Test 15 by it showing it is always FULL even when it’s empty. I cannot find a schematic for the mainboard unfortunately.

If it always tests open circuit (or short circuit), regardless of the tray being filled or not, then it is a wiring problem between the P7 harness plug and the ice box harness plug and then perhaps between the ice box harness plug/socket and the icemaker harness plug/socket.

Block Image

(click on image to enlarge)

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Charles Ball sarà eternamente grato.
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