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Guide di riparazione e smontaggio per dispositivi per raffreddare il cibo, che include frigoriferi, freezer e frigo-congelatori.

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Fridge and freezer temperature fluctuations

It's summer and very hot humid. My fridge was having temp problems I got two thermometers now put ice in the freezer and cleaned it well. before getting groceries, it was 0 in the freezer and 39ish in the fridge.

I add groceries which I did not take long or keep the door open long, now the freezer is 20 and the fridge almost 60. And I keep waiting for it to go down. I added ice on the freezer which was working before.

What is happening and what can I do ? Is this normal? I'm getting scared about food safety at these temps. Basically I wanna put the fridge food in the freezer and stuff on the table in the fridge to try to be safe. And we can't afford to get new right now :( please help

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Hi @unicorncupcake,

What is the make and model number of the refrigerator?

Most auto defrost refrigerators go into an auto defrost mode approx. once every 8-10 hours and during this time (about 20-25 minutes) the compressor and the evaporator fan which is inside the freezer compartment behind a panel, are both stopped and the temperature in the freezer compartment is allowed to rise (usually from 0°F) to aid in the defrost action. It should never get >32°F though. The refrigerator compartment will also get warm because the cool air that is used to cool it down is coming from the freezer compartment and of course there is none during this time because the fan is stopped.

After the auto defrost period has ended, the compressor and evaporator fan are both restarted to cool the fridge and freezer back down to their set temps, (usually 0°F & 38°F) This may take a little while to achieve depending on how warm the compartments actually are at the time e.g. doors being opened a lot so more cool air is lost etc

If the compressor is not running when the temps are as you said, give it approx. 30 minutes and if it hasn’t restarted by then there may be a defrost problem. Try turning off the power to the refrigerator and waiting about a minute or so and then turning it back on. Sometimes, depending on the make and model this resets the control board and it will restart the compressor. Unfortunately the same thing might happen again on the next auto defrost cycle when it occurs ~10 hours later.

If the compressor is running then check if you can hear if the evaporator fan running. It will stop when a door is opened (either door) and will start again when they’re shut. It will run as long as the compressor is operating. You may have to place your ear next to the cabinet and listen for it stop and start when you open and close a door.

If the fan is not running when the compressor is running, it may still be a defrost problem e.g. iced over fan caused by a faulty defrost heater, faulty defrost thermostat or a blocked drain leading from under the evap unit to the evap pan under the compartments or if not iced over it could be a faulty fan or fan power supply.

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Frigidaire FFTR1821T*

We received groceries about 10 am I checked beforehand and it was 0 in freezer 39 in fridge, from the time we added the food which I didn't buy much because it's been acting up, to about 8? It was the 20 in freezer and 60 in fridge, then my mom said it sounded like it turned off then back on and suddenly started getting cooler (after all the food was soft mushy for hours)

Is almost like ok I ruined your groceries, now I'll behave again.

And when I went down an hour ago just opening the door to get a juice box it went up to almost 60 again and won't go down fast

In the freezer about a week ago the fan on the back wall the bottom half was iced up after removing that it seemed to work, then now she the groceries those bottom slits on the bottom of the back wall of freezer were iced up even though there no blockage I only go it maybe 20% to avoid problems and still this happens

da

@unicorncupcake

Sounds as though the defrost heater's not working.

Here's a link to the parts for your model.

It is only to show where they're located. (for heater element see "System" parts diagram, part #16)

You need to disconnect the power from the refrigerator and then access the evaporator unit inside the freezer compartment behind the panel at the back (access through the door at the front of the compartment) and disconnect the heater from the wiring harness and then using an Ohmmeter to measure it for continuity. I don't know what the resistance value is but it should NOT be open circuit. If it is open circuit then it needs to be replaced as they cannot be repaired

The heater element is mounted below the evaporator unit. Also check if the drain hole below the evaporator unit is clear by pouring a measured amount of water (cupful only) down it and making sure that all of it reaches the evap pan outside, under the compartments near the compressor motor. If the hole is frozen over you may have to wait until it defrosts naturally as using a hair dryer etc if too warm can damage the evap unit

da

Ok thank you very much im not really mechanically inclined so it sounds something needs professional or do you think i can do it myself?

da

@unicorncupcake

You also need to be electrically inclined as you have to test electric circuit components admittedly with the power disconnected but the principle is the same i.e. have a DMM (digital multimeter) and know how to use it.

If you don't then it will be quicker and easier (and maybe cheaper considering the possible loss of food etc) to contact a reputable, professional refrigerator repair service and ask for a quote. Look online and check their reviews (if any) and then go with the one you feel most comfortable with as long as the price suits also.

Good luck

da

Thanks for your help :)

da

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Amy sarà eternamente grato.
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