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A bluetooth portable speaker released by SONY, manufactured on June 2014. Identified by FCC ID: AK8SRSX2.

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Bypass battery and use it only with DC power

Hi,

I have a Sony SRS-X2, and I know that it is possible to replace the battery, but this just delay the problem for X months.

I would like to use it as a non-portable speaker, just plug it into the DC adapter and turn it on.

As my battery is completely dead, and this model does not play while charging, I cannot use it.

With the speaker plugged in, I have the orange light (charge) but if I turn the device ON, the orange light turn off and stop charging, 2 seconds after, the speaker stop working (battery is dead) and then turn it off and go back to charge mode.


So, is it possible to open it and remove the battery completely or bypass it, so the power does not go into the battery but to use the speaker?


Thanks!

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Hi @darkpollo ,

Almost everything is possible when it comes to electronics. It depends on how much time and effort are you willing to sacrifice.

I am not familiar with this particular model, however the basic principles for these devices are very similar. You have a DC-in power supply, which can vary from 3-9V, you have a rechargeable (possibly Lithium ion battery) and a circuit that is powered from the battery. In your case it seems that the playback is not possible whilst charging, so you need to get around it.

If it was me, I would check the voltage rating of the charger or USB (which is most likely 5V) and the V rating of the battery. I would buy a step down converter from eBay (usually around £3, $4) and I would hook it up so the input is the charger and the output voltage is the battery’s nominal voltage. Remove the battery so you have space to put the converter in and your problem is solved.

It would mean that the device thinks that it runs off a charged battery, when in reality it is powered from a DC supply.

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Thank you for the quick answer.

the battery is 3.7V 2400 mA

the input from the usb is 5V 1.5A

The thing I am struggling to understand, is that the cable from the battery seems to have 6 cables, instead of the 2 standard cables for power.

Which ones of the cables are the 2 for power and what are the rest for?

I will look into the step down converter, as I didn´t know about those devices and seems to be a nice solution. :)

da

I have been investigating the step down converter thing (thank you for that!) and I am not sure how to calculate the Amps output I need to consider.

The V input and output are clear.

The specs say it is a 15W power consumption.

But I am not sure if that is what I need to use or if I should check what the battery can provide instead.

da

You don't have to worry about the Amp usage as the 15W is more than enough. The battery under full load can only suppy around 8W but your device is most likely to run on like 400 to 800mA on a 3.7V battey which is well within 15 W power rating.

I am sure that those 6 wires stem from the same V+ and GND source, or at least a pair is and maybe a couple is for a data line. There should be a V+ marking on the board at the battery connector. Maybe labelled BAT+ and BAT-

da

@honakrisi

Possibly also a wire for a thermistor (or other sensor) in the battery so that charging can be monitored and that the battery is not overheating when being charged if the battery management circuitry was not in the battery itself.

If it doesn't work it may be because the sensor resistance value is missing from the BM circuit on the motherboard saying that the battery is there.

I've had to connect a 10K resistor to earth on the "sense" battery lead in some devices just to fool the BM circuit when I couldn't get a suitably dimensioned 3 wire Lipo battery and had to use a 2 wire one instead but this was for charging only so maybe it won't matter

Just a thought

da

Can u use a Bluetooth motherboard batteries and wires and speaker and a cell phone with no battery but plugged into a wall or a computer can you communicate with other people threw those

da

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I have the same model and thought of the same resolution. What I did is i used a old circuit board that was USB (5V) plug in and various ports gave 3.3 output. I tried to connect the 3.3V to the 3.7V points and it works. (has a very minor bug that I need to give some power to start the system and then all the functions work fine)

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Any better solutions welcomed! :)

da

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darkpollo sarà eternamente grato.
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