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Released June 2012, Model A1278. Intel processor with Turbo Boost, Up to 512 MB DDR5 Video RAM

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Will Crucial MX500 2TB 3D CT2000MX500SSD1 SSD work in my Mid-2012 MBP?


Your going to have to forgive me in advance I use to work on computers, but need help because I want to understand a basic breakdown between an HDD and SSD, also could somebody please explain to me what NVME for SSD’s means?

I am a college student with a Macbook Mid-2012 with 2.5 GHz Dual-Core Intel Core i5 it has 16 GB of RAM. I am looking to upgrade from the two 500 GB HDD I currently have installed to one of the following options:

  • Crucial MX500 2TB SSD - 3D NAND SATA 2.5” SATA III (6.0 Gb/s) CT2000MX500SSD1
  • Samsung 860 QVO 2TB SSD - 2.5” SATA III (6.0 Gb/s) MZ-76Q2T0B/AM
  • Some other SSD

Would either of these SSD’s work in a Mid-2012 MBP? Do I need a Mounting Bracket or not? Should I also get a SATA to USB Cable since SSD’s are shockproof?

My concern is one of the reviews on Amazon said that his Crucial SSD stopped working after 5 months, that concerns me, plus I know these are expensive but being a college student and being a person who is capable of upgrading his own computer and I have some leftover money from Financial Aid to use, and considering how much I use my computer for school, writing papers etc. I need some recommendations in deciding what is best.

Also, I need recommendations for a backup External HDD or SSD for my Mid-2012 MacBook Pro.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Marshall D.W.H.

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These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs replacement. You also need to pad the unibody where the hard drive rests as this is a known cable killer spot. It also helps to put sometthing on the optical drive (and cable) itself to get things to be a bit more favorable in terms of how long the new cable lasts. Refer to this guide to change the cable. If you don't replace the cable any SSD you put in there will make it known it isn't happy with the SATA II wiring or pre-existing damage many have.

In terms of patching, refer to these two photos:

Block Image

(Can use any tape here that’s thin - if you use double sided DON’T remove the protective layer)

Block Image

This image from @mayer on how he does it. I more or less mirrored it in mine.

In addition to that, I have put electrical tape on the lower portion of the optical drive where the cable rests to be absolutely sure. The back cable and optical drive patch is precautionary and not strictly needed but it’s another layer of protection I chose to add.

As far as the SSDs go I’ve had issues with Crucial before (and Samsung had Linux TRIM issues with the 840 EVO, but that’s long since patched and hasn’t reoccured) so I usually recommend the Samsung. If you’re on a student bugdet, look into a WD or SanDisk (WD now owns SanDisk); WD just rebrands SanDisk SSDs so go off of price and spec.

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@nick - FYI - The optical drive fix is only needed in the 15" models and the plastic tabs tend to snap on them. There's no tabs in the 13" models.


@danj I added it more to err on the side of caution. These cables are disturbingly fragile - beyond literally any other laptop even. I've clarified it's discretionary and not strictly required. Stuff like these bad cables makes me glad we're using blade drives now.

My cable came with a bad IR sensor, so while I don't care about that failing I did want to be sure since the HD side works. I believe they snapped in my 17" but I was fine because those things are NOT travel friendly. It's also possible the giant chassis provides breathing room if they snap.

When I taped mine up, I used the protections Mayer did and I haven't had an issue and added some.


I take the liberty to add to the SSD list of good drives the Silicon Power brand, after a few trials with good results, I've put one on my beloved old 17" that had an older EVO840 and I'm really very pleased with it, it feels the difference.


@arbaman Yep. Those EVO drives hurt Samsung for a while since they were so bad. It's been long enough without a repeat it's forgiveable but still a bad mark.

With SanDisk avoid the SSD Plus - it's a DRAM-less trainwreck of an SSD. Any SSD with a questionably low price is suspect.


@nick To be honest I don't really even know how that EVO ended up in my Mac..I had put an Intenso years back and I was a bit surprised when I found that Samsung inside a couple of weeks ago. Must have been some trial I forgot about :D


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Either of these two drives will work in your system. Just make sure you replace the cable as @nick outlined. I also recommend you use a BIC pen ink straw (or other pen ink straw) to help you form the bends you’ll need to put in the cable. You don’t want a sharp fold as that damages the thin foil wires inside . Using the straw to help form the radius arc.

As far as NVMe that’s a newer interface standard within PCIe interface. Here’s a breakdown:

Block Image

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Too bad you can't retrofit NVMe in older systems :-(. What a difference it makes; it's night and day even with an SSD.


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I have a similar MacBook Pro and I upgraded to a 1 TB Crucial SSD a couple of years ago. Dead easy upgrade following the instructions on iFixit and on Apple web site. The drive is a drop in replacement for the original Apple SATA hard drive and needs no extra parts that did not come with the Crucial drive. And unlike newer Mac laptops there is no need for special tools to get in or to access the RAM or the hard drive.

I loved my drive until the last week or so when it has started to show signs of failure.

I have not yet had time to do a full diagnosis. If it is just a single bad block I can get around it and all will be well. But if the drive is failing, I will be very annoyed because it was a significant hit to my budget. The drive status is “verified” which means that the Mac thinks it is working fine and the internal SMART algorithm has not recognized problems.

I am a retired software engineer with a moderate amount of hardware experience. Modern SSDs are amazingly small and light, and are immune to physical bumps that would destroy a spinning drive. But if the chip quality control and the spare-block algorithms are faulty, maybe not quite so great.

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Trust me its the cable ;-}


It's always the cable 9 times out of 10. If it wasn't we wouldn't warn new 2011/12 owners to change it ASAP for when they get a different drive.

They fail for no good reason a lot.


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Marshall WahlstromHelgren sarà eternamente grato.
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