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Repair and disassembly guides for food cooling appliances including refrigerators, freezers and fridge-freezers.

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LG in-door icemaker won't dump ice into the bin

The tray fills up with water and freezes but won’t dump ice into the bin. Model LFX28978ST/02. The unit adds more and more water to the tray that is already filled with ice, so water runs out the door, down the side, and puddles on the floor. When I push the reset button the tray does INDEED turn, so the motor works. If I melt the ice block with a hair dryer and remove it from the tray, the icemaker seems to work in that it fills the tray with the right amount of water, it freezes, and then I can dump the normal cubes into the bin manually, using the reset button. If I don’t dump the ice manually, though, it never gets dumped, more water keeps getting added to the tray, the tray fills up to overflowing with ice, and I get water on the floor again.

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Thanks. Thermostat seems most likely. I’m leaning toward replacing the whole module since it looks simple (5 screws) and the module runs just about ~$120 on Amazon. Plus my fridge is 5 years old and people say that’s about how long the icemaker lasts anyway. I called a licensed LG repair place and they wanted $500 for a new unit and $200 to install it. Big NOPE.

da

I have the same problem. Ice maker only dumps manually. I replaced the ice maker. Same problem. Freezer set to -6°F and Fridge set to 35°F. Ice freezes fine. No dump. I get the thermostat issue but, on a new maker and same as old unit? Ice maker is AEO73110210. Fridge is LMXS30776S /01

da

@hapersson Have you checked the temperature at the ice maker? The display shows what the temperature is set for but that might not be what the temperature is at the I/M. The thermostat is located on the bottom of the tray. It moves when the tray moves to drop the ice. Moving plastic parts will break often. Dirty condenser coils will cause the icemaker to slow down or stop making ice. The coils should be cleaned once a year. More often if you have pets.

If you have below 9*f at the I/M and the coils behind/underneath the unit are clean and the tray fills with water, then you have a problem in the I/M. A gear could be damaged, the tstat isn’t sensing the temp correct or the wiring to I/M is loose or damaged. I’ve had many brand new parts that arrived damaged. Especially ice makers. Parts will come with a warranty. Just because something is new doesn’t mean it won’t break.

da

@ladytech Thank you for the reply and suggestions. My compressor and coils are good. Just had the bad linear compressor replaced by LG. I put a digital remote probe in the ice maker compartment in front of the probe. The temp has stabilized at 26°F. I removed the ice maker pack and added insulation behind the temp probe and reinstalled the package. Now we wait...Thanks!

da

@hapersson 26*f is too warm. The ice maker won’t advance until its 9*f or below. If it doesn’t go believe 9*f you should call LG while the repairs are still under warranty. It could be a problem in the sealed system foe why the temperature isn’t reaching temperature. You should check the fresh food section temperature all so.

da

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Soluzione Prescelta

@Scott Johnson use a “digital “ thermometer to check the temperature at the ice maker. You can pick but a “digital “ thermometer almost everywhere for under $20. The temperature at the ice maker must be below 9*f . The I/M will not advance if it’s 10*f or warmer. If the temperature is below 9* a gear or switch in I/m head could be bad. Dirty condenser coils is usually the problem. The condenser coils MUST be cleaned at least once a year, more often if you have indoor pets. Condenser coils are underneath the refrigerator. Unplug the unit, remove the rear access panel and vacuum all the dust out.

This comment does not apply to a Samsung french door refrigerator with the ice maker located at the top left in the refrigerator section. Google Samsung Class Action Suits if you have a Samsung ice maker issue.

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Scott Johnson, you didn’t mention what model you have. Not all ice makers have an ice level sensor or infer red senors. Ice makers located on the inside of the left left door have an under red sensor that is located on each side of the refrigerator opening. When the left door is shut, if the ice bucket is full the ice blocks the path for the inferred path. In 35 years I’ve never had an issue with that sensor. If your I/m is inside the refrigerator and not on the door itself, you won’t have that type of sensor,that’s probably why you can’t find any information on it.

da

Thanks for the answers... Sorry didn't include model is LMXC23746D - french door with pull out crisper drawer, ice maker in the door. So at this point, I've replaced the entire ice maker unit. 2 days ago, noticed that new things put in the freezer weren't freezing - existing things weren't thawing. so, emptied entire freezer, removed back panel and there was one large chunk of ice in upper right around the wires for the thermostat in the freezer. Put in some fans, removed the ice - the coils themselves were all nice and clean. Was hoping that the ice was giving a false cold reading to temperature sensor. The fix was yesterday, so let it run over night about 24 hours with freezer temp set at -20C. It was at about -15C But the ice maker no where near the 9F - closer to 40F, but at the same time I must say there was a lot of opening and closing of the door before I had a thermometer in there. Now I pulled off the back and vacuumed the condenser coils. definitely time , but not disgusting. wait 24hrs

da

So - *maybe* things are fixed? Freezer is still mostly empty - I have it set for -20C, but it's measuring closer to about -12C at the coldest, but few test items are frozen nice and solid. Ice maker seems to be dumping ice, albeit very slowly. The thing has never been that fast, but after about 48 hours of not taking ice out of it, it's still only maybe just over half full. It's still reading warmer than the temperature suggested that is required for it to dump ice, but it is dumping ice without me having to push the test/reset button now on the ice maker.

So it doesn't seem perfect at this point, but it seems "ok"? Not sure it's ever been better than this - I've always thought ice making was pitifully slow, but this still "feels" slower than historically. So if anyone has any other thoughts about what to try since I've cleaned out about everything I can think of by now, I'd appreciate it :)

da

@Scott Johnson if you only had ice built up in the upper right corner of the coils, that tells me that there is a problem in the sealed system. The refrigerant isn’t flowing properly through all the coils. It could be a restriction, low on refrigerant or a failing compressor. The condenser coils underneath the refrigerator could be dirty and not allowing proper air flow. Unplug it and remove the rear access panel and use a vacuum to remove the dust. That might help. If not, you’ll

need to schedule service. Only an EPA certified technician can check and repair the sealed system.

da

Thanks @ladytech - appreciate the feedback. So far things seem to be running o.k. Might need to get the compressor/closed system looked at eventually. Got some fridge/freezer thermometers in there, and have the temp settings at their lowest point on the fridge. All are reading warmer than what I have it set to, but everything is staying cold/frozen appropriately and ice is being made. I do wonder if things aren't getting as cold as programmed to if there is still something not working as well as it could/should be, but at least I seem to be past "crisis" part of things, and hopefully can wait to get some in home service till our world returns a little more sane and social distancing isn't the concern. But always appreciate the help!

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Risposta Più Utile

Icemaker Mold Thermostat

If the ice maker is not working the icemaker mold thermostat might be defective. Inside the control module of the ice maker is a thermostat which monitors the temperature of the ice mold (ice tray). Once the mold reaches the proper temperature the ice maker starts a harvest cycle by ejecting the ice cubes and refilling with water. If the mold thermostat is defective the ice maker doesn't advance. The thermostat can be checked for continuity. (See if it is closed). Replace it as needed.The freezer temp should be between 0-5 degrees for optimum performance.

Icemaker Switch

If the refrigerator ice maker is not working, check the icemaker switch. This switch frequently gets turned off by accident. If the switch is turned on but the ice maker still doesn't work, check the switch for continuity with an Ohm meter. Replace as needed.

Ice Level Control Board

If the ice maker is not working the ice level control board might be defective. This refrigerator is equipped with an infrared light beam to detect the level of ice in the ice bucket. As the level of ice reaches the top, the beam is interrupted and the ice maker shuts off. As ice is used up and the level of ice drops below the beam, the ice maker starts up again. If the ice level control board fails, the ice maker will stop making ice.

Door Switch

If the refrigerator ice maker is not working, the door switch might be defective. When the freezer door is opened the freezer door switch does two things, it turns on the light in the freezer and turns off the ice maker and dispenser. If the door switch fails the dispenser will not turn on. The switch can be checked for continuity with an Ohm meter. If it doesn’t have continuity it should be replaced.

Icemaker Module

If the ice maker is not working the icemaker module at the front might be defective. The module has a motor that cycles the ice ejector arms around to push the ice cubes out when the ice maker thermostat closes. It also has contacts in it for the mold heater and water inlet valve. The motor or contacts of the module can fail. Usually there are test points in the module that a service person can use to determine if there is a problem with it or one of the related ice maker components.

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I have this problem with the ice maker mold not rotating to drop the ice into the bend. Per the above you mentioned checking the thermostat is that on the front of the fridge door or in the ice maker itself? You indicated the freezer temp should be between 0-5 degrees is this 0 and minus -5 degrees?

da

Melanie, I would say 0-5, no reason to go negative. Mine is doing the same thing, won’t dump the ice. There is a reset/test button on mine (in door ice maker) that made mine dump. It has been working on and off lately so I’m thinking it is the mold thermostat that is going out on mine

da

That being 0 to 5.

da

So - I have this problem and I have actually replaced the entire ice maker unit, and it is still not dumping the ice. It makes the ice fine, the reset button will dump the ice manually, but it almost never automatically dumps the ice. Very rarely it will dump the ice by itself, but not sure when. I've tried to adjust the temperature settings to as cold as they will go for the freezer, that doesn't make a difference, and since I replaced the entire unit, it seems unlikely it's a thermostat issue at this point. I guess it's mentioned above in the helpful answer about an ice level control board - but any suggestions how to test that out? Where is it? And/or for the ice level sensors - how to test them? I can see on the ice maker unit what I assume is infrared lights/sensors - nothing blocked, but not sure how to test to see if they are working or not - maybe same question just at the destination side rather than the controller side? I haven't found references for the part/repair process for the board.

da

We need some help from @ladytech on this one.

da

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I'd suggest that the bar that suppose to be in the down position is either in the up position or the switch in the back of the fridge is broke,look to c if there's a way to get to the switch and put a tester on it and c if the tester light comes on when the bar is in the down position if not then it needs replaced. That would be the first thing to .

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So here’s my story - I don’t think it’s represented here. The icemaker has a sensor in it that it won’t dump unless the temp is below 9 degrees in the compartment. In my case it was 30, so cold enough to make ice but not cold enough to dump. That’s basically an early warning indicator that the temp differential is problematic - which is a compressor problem, ultimately, because it can’t keep pace. In my case the evaporator coil and the compressor have to be replaced - $1200 in parts for an $1800 machine.

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my ice maker makes crush ice, not block ice. i have noticed that the device that kicks out the ice works fine (rotating one direction) but will NOT kick out the ice (when rotating the other direction)

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bannisterthomas sarà eternamente grato.
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