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Why does Pioneer SB23W Sound Bar Shut off 10 Secs with popping sound?

I have a Pioneer SB23W Bluetooth enabled sound bar. The sound bar started making “popping’ sounds 10-20 seconds after turning on then it shuts down as like a circuit breaker. Is there an internal circuit breaker or is this a capacitor issue or something else?

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Soluzione Prescelta

Hi @dcsuperdave ,

It sounds (no pun intended) as though the protection circuits are operating.

Open up the soundbar and check for any obvious signs of a problem on the circuit board(s), such as blown or bulging capacitors or any components showing signs of heat stress or damage etc.

There may be a polyswitch (or some other form of automatic power isolation) in the power supply or speaker circuits which detects a current overload and operates to protect the components from further damage.

If you're unsure if there are any faulty components post some close up pictures back here and no doubt somebody may be able to help.

Here's how to do this

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Thanks, but how do I open the rivets or are the Phillip head screws all that is needed to gain access to the board? I tried loosening the four Phillips but I did't want to pul too hard and damage the board.

da

Those are not rivets. They are 3/32 hex screws. Need a driver. I have the same issue

da

Thanks, I took it to Auto Zone and they let me borrow the hex screw driver. It worked perfectly.

da

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Pioneer SP-SB23W Repair

Unable to find any service info or schematic I spent several days troubleshooting this sound bar and thought I should share my findings. If anyone has a schematic or a link it would be greatly appreciated.

 Pioneer SP-SB23W Sound Bar User Manual

The symptom, as many I have seen posted, was a failure to start up. The sound bar would come to life after repeated pressing of the power button, sometimes as many as 20 presses.

Upon first inspection after removing the power-supply/amplifier combination I found one of the capacitors on the amplifier board closest to the heat sink swollen. (C618). I really thought this was my lucky day. The capacitor turned out to be quite leaky and only measured about 800 uf and was supposed to be 4700 uf. I suspect that these two capacitors are part of the amplifier supply splitting circuit. It appeared the power supply was putting out 36 volts and the amplifier was operating on a split +/- 18v supply. After replacing this one the same symptom remained.

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My next suspicion of course was the powersupply. From what I can tell it delivers 36 volts and a standby voltage of about 7 volts. Both of these voltages appeared stable. I removed both capacitors (470 uf and 47 uf) and found they both tested ok and had normal leakage when subjected to their rated voltage.

At that point my attention turned to the amplifier board and I began removing and testing capacitors. First was C604 (can’t remember the value off hand, possibly 2200 uf) It tested ok but when subjected to its rated voltage of 16 volts it was on the leaky side. I replaced it anyway with a quality Nichicon capacitor. I reassembled everything and the problem was still there.

Next were the four 47uf @ 50v capacitors on the amplifier board. I tested them all and three of the 4 showed damaged or unknown on my tester. I replaced all 4. After reassembly, still no luck.

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Next I checked the input board. It has just 3 capacitors on it. Two are 47uf @ 10v and one 100uf cap. These were all good.

At this point I was ready to give up. I really felt it wasn’t capacitor related. Just for sport I dragged out my oscilloscope and probed the 36 volt supply and the 7 volt standby supply. The 36 volt supply looked rock solid with some expected switching pulses. (25 kHz) But much to my surprise the standby supply was jumping up and down a bit. I attached a 47 uf capacitor across the standby supply and Ureka! The unit powered up with every power on cycle. I thought I would just leave it at this point now that it was working but my conscience said, fix it properly. Once I changed the 47uf cap on the power supply board all was good!

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Bottom line is that Pioneer either cheaped out or got a bad batch of 47uf cpaacitors. If you’re repairing on of these units replace all 5 of the 47uf @ 50v capacitors. This should solve your problems.

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We scrapped the circuits and kept the speakers with the enclosures. We went back to wires since they always work. We kept the 6 speakers in the sound bar, sawed the sound bar into 3 parts and kept the two ends with the speakers. We looked up the specs on the speakers and made a 2 level crossover for them. We swapped out the sub-woofer circuits with a wired one from Parts Express; model SA 25 fits perfect. It works and sounds great now. Not everyone will like this solution but we are good for many years now.

da

Hi, I have the same problem, with the Pioneer SP-SB23W, also known as the "Andrew Jones Edition", the system starts normally but, don't work correctable, just make little a sound like plum, and don't make anything after that. Sometimes stars fine bunt the most of the time don't work fine. Thanks

da

I followed Larry’s diagnosis on my SP-SB23W sound bar. Same issues, multiple presses of the power button to get it to power, loud pop sound once it did turn on but no sound. I checked all the caps in circuit of the power supply board with the $20 capacitance meter. The 47uf cap was measuring 41uf in circuit. I tested the two voltages leading into the amp board. The 36 volt was fine. The standby voltage was averaging about 2 volts but fluctuating. I soldering a new 47uf gap to the standby voltage pins on the amp board and this fixed it! My standby voltage read 4.5 volts. I pulled the 47uf on the power supply board. It read the same out of the circuit. My new cap measured 47uf before I installed it. No other caps were changed.

da

Hey guys. Have the same issue here, turning the sound bar on makes it to pop out loud noises and then no sound. Sometimes it works though (rarely).

So the only thing to do is to add a new capacitor of 47 uF to the standby power supply?

da

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Hi, I have the same problem, with the Pioneer SP-SB23W, also known as the "Andrew Jones Edition", the system starts normally but, don't work correctable, just make little a sound like plum, and don't make anything after that. Sometimes stars fine bunt the most of the time don't work fine. Thanks.

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If you read through my previous answer I mentioned the 5 47uf 50v capacitors could be the culprit. I would start with the one on the power supply board. That was the culprit in my case. I only had a 25 volt cap and that worked fine. If that’s not it then next I would replace the other 4 on the main amplifier board. I would also test the 4700uf caps on the amplifier board too just in case.

Good luck!

da

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Hi folks, I was having similar issues as described by you, in my case specifically:

  • The soundbar started behaving weirdly, sometimes powering off in the middle of use
  • Then it started giving pops every time I powered it up, but worked fine
  • After some time it'd give loud pops and not play any sound anymore

Then I luckily found this page with Larry's solution. I followed his suggestion and simply added a capacitor to the board as you can see below. The other capacitors seemed fine to me, so I did not change them

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Results:

  • Now it powers up and plays music (tested through analog and bluetooth and worked fine)
  • It sometimes though does not power up pressing the button on the front
  • To remedy that, it works when I switch off in the back and on again, and try powering it up in the front a couple of times
  • is not poping loud sounds anymore

Well, as you can see now the workaround of adding a capacitor worked partially. It turns on now after a couple of switches however sometimes it does not work. If you have any ideas for further improvements, please let me know.

Hope this is useful for others. Thanks

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I probably got lucky when I paralled the 47uf capacitor for the standby voltage. Best to change this capacitor on the main power supply board. Its likely very leaky.

Also I'm not sure of your level of electronics experience but a lot of the time capacitors that have gone bad don't show any physical leakage or swelling. Its good to test suspect caps with a cheap cap tester from amazon. Ones that measure high ESR should go.

https://www.amazon.ca/hz/mobile/mission?

I would also change C618. It's located right up against a heat sink so it could easily suffer from heat damage. Good Luck!

da

Hi Larry, many thanks for your kind help

Can you send the specific model of capacitor tester? The link looks broken to me.

The behavior of the soundbar now is quite erratic. It is surely not popping out loud sounds, however it does not power on every time I press the power button. It does some times when I'm lucky so I'm just leaving it on all the time while I don't get a definitive fix.

My next try will be to replace the caps as you mentioned. I'm not really sure how to do it, but I have a soldering iron and a desoldering pump, that's how I thought I'd do it really. If you have any tips for this case, hit me :)

da

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David B Alston sarà eternamente grato.
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