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The late 2005 Power Mac G5 was introduced in October, and discontinued in August the next year. There were three configuration options, one dual core processor at 2.0 GHz, one dual core at 2.3 GHz with model number A1177, and one dual core dual processor (quad core) at 2.5 GHz.

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Liquid cooling rebuild - hose filters, pump pinout?

Hi all,

I am attemping to rebuild my powermac G5 LCS. It wasn’t leaking or anything, just preventive maintenance after all those years. I have the mac fully disassembled and LCS disassembled as well.

It’s deplhi model (one pump) DDC3.1. The hoses didn’t want to come off so I had to cut them and will be replacing them soon.

But I noticed there are little tiny filters on the input (maybe also on the output) of each processor block passthourgh. Are those filters necessary, or should I remove them? They are very fine, but I have a feeling they may be a little clogged after all those years.

Specially when I want to pour in this liquid: https://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/... - is it a good liquid? It’s colored (couldn’t get a clear one in my usual parts shop), so won’t it clog up the filters? Should I remove them?

Also the pump has DDC3.1 written on the side and after disassembly the board states Laing DDC3v20 and sticker says v 3.3. What is the pinout please? I’d like to power it from molex after all the refurbishments for 24 hours to see if it’s not leaking.

Thank you very much! :)

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Before you go down this path keep in mind the CPU heat sink has tiny holes which can clog with junk either the pigment in the liquid and/or algae growth that will build up over time. So I would strongly recommend you leave the filters in place and make sure you’ve cleaned them as best as you can without damaging them (ultrasonically). Don’t forget you’ll need to make sure you don’t have any air in the lines as well. And lastly I would stick with the clear coolant.

As far a wiring up a custom harness to power the cooler to test it. Apple never offered any wiring harness info so you’ll need to use a DVM to check the lines for both voltage and polarity. I often find a push pin used in sewing with a wire lead soldered to it is a great way to test things. Basically once you’ve isolated out the lines for the pump push the pin through the insulation of the wire to intersect the conductor inside.

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Viliam Kuson sarà eternamente grato.
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