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Modelli A1419 / Fine 2012 / Processori 2.9 & 3.2 GHz Core i5 o 3.4 GHz Core i7, ID iMac13,2

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iMac on makes intro chime but screen doesn't turn on. Fans blow 100%.

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Hey guys!

I hope you're doing well!

My iMac will make the startup chime when turned on but the screen doesn't turn on. And after a few seconds the fans will start running at what I assume is 100%. Do you think it is a bad logic board? or is it the screen itself?

Update (07/04/2018)

Awesome, here are my results

LED 1 stays on and LED 2 and LED 3 turn on when power button is pressed

LED 4 does not turn on even when display is connected

after a few seconds the fan turns on at 100% and stays there.

THEN - I tried connecting an external display and that worked perfectly

However still the fans are running at 100% (regardless of my setup and if I remove the iMac's own LCD or not)

HOWEVER, I am still not sure if it is the LCD that is the problem since on the logic board near the display cable I see some brown discoloration which leads me to believe a shortage occurred (I have attached a picture). So even though an external display works fine, do you think it could still be the logic board?

I wish I could test this LCD on another iMac to make sure it works before I buy another LCD or another logic board

So even though an external display works fine, do you think it could still be the logic board?

What do you guys think?

THANK YOU SO MUCH IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR HELP!! :) :)

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Soluzione Prescelta

I’d start by checking the diagnostic LED’s (position A)

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LED 1

Indicates that the trickle voltage from the power supply has been detected by the main logic board. This LED will turn on when you connect the iMac to a working AC power source. The LED will remain on as long as the computer is on or asleep.

When the computer has been shut down correctly, LED 1 behavior may differ:

If a startup event is scheduled in System Preferences/Energy Saver, LED 1 will stay on after a correct shutdown.

If no startup event is scheduled in System Preferences/Energy Saver, LED 1 will turn off and will stay off as long

as the power cord is kept connected and an AC power source is present. Disconnecting the power cord and

plugging it back in will turn this LED back on, even if the computer is still off.

After disconnecting and reconnecting the AC power source, this LED could remain off:

If the AC power source is missing or disconnected.

If the logic board is disconnected from the power supply or the AC receptacle.

If the power supply board is faulty.

LED 2

Indicates that the computer is turned on. This LED will be on as long as the computer is turned on (but is not asleep) and the power supply and voltage regulators are working correctly.

LED 3

Indicates that the computer and video card are communicating. This LED will be on when the computer is communicating properly with the video card. If LEDs 1 and 2 are on and you heard the startup sound but LED 3 is off,

the backup battery (on back of logic board) may need to be reseated or the video card might be installed incorrectly or need replacement.

LED 4

Indicates that the computer and LCD panel are communicating. This LED will be ON when the computer is turned on and a video signal is being generated. If LED 4 is on and there is no image on the display, the LCD panel or the cables between the LCD and logic board might be installed incorrectly or need replacement.

LED Startup Sequence

LED 1 = Power is available.

If no LED is visible:

Disconnect the power cord from the computer and wait 15 seconds to reset the power supply and LED status.

Reconnect the power cord and check the LED status again.

Verify the AC source.

Verify that a known-good power cord is connected.

Verify the cable connection between the AC inlet and the power supply.

Verify the cable connection between the power supply and the logic board.

Verify the power supply.

LED 1 + LED 2 = Power is available and the system is turned on.

If the second LED is not visible when the power button is pressed:

Verify that the power button is connected to the power supply.

Verify power button functionality.

Verify the cable connection between the power supply and the logic board.

Verify the power supply.

Verify the logic board.

LED 1 + LED 2 + LED 3 = Power is available, the system is turned on, and the GPU was found.

If the third LED is not visible after the system is turned on:

Verify whether the boot chime is present and fans are running when turned on (reset the SMC and PRAM and verify

backup battery voltage for proper startup).

If the POST boot chime is not heard, go to the No Startup symptom flow.

If the POST boot chime is heard, go to the No Video symptom flow.

LED 1 + LED 2 + LED 3 + LED 4 = Power is available, the system is turned on, the logic board is communicating with the GPU, and the internal LCD was found.

If the fourth LED is not visible after the system is turned on:

Verify the internal DisplayPort cable (eDP) connections between the LCD panel and the logic board.

Inspect the LCD display cables for cable damage.

Verify external video functionality and proceed according to the result:

If an external display works, verify/replace the LCD panel.

If an external display does not work, verify/replace the logic board.

Quick Check

Symptoms Quick Check

Computer does not power on

No image on internal or external displays

No startup sound

No sounds from fan or hard drive (if hard drive present)

No Caps Lock LED when key is pressed on wired keyboard

Non-operational

Note: Inform user that computer failures due to accidental damage are not covered. If applicable, discuss out-of warranty repair options.

Here is the “No Power “ troubleshooting part from the manualTrouble-Shooting.pdf as well as the “no Start up” one No-Start-Up.pdf

Update (07/04/2018)

"If the fourth LED is not visible after the system is turned on:

Verify the internal DisplayPort cable (eDP) connections between the LCD panel and the logic board.

Inspect the LCD display cables for cable damage.

Verify external video functionality and proceed according to the result:

If an external display works, verify/replace the LCD panel." so the issue seems to be the LCD or the connection to it.

Update (07/04/2018)

That part is definitely no longer functioning and is most likely the issue ;>). It looks like this is part of the 12V power supply to your LCD. That would make your LCD not come on and not communicate with the rest of your board. It should be a 250 Ohm ferrite bead inductor. You will have to take the measurements from beginning to end of the component to determine which package size this is.

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These components are readily available at places like mouser.com or digikey.com as well as many others.

Thanks for posting the image. It pretty much pointed out what has failed.

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14 Commenti:

Oh wow!! Thank you so much!! You're super knowledgable about this! Me not so much, only a little haha. So follow up question - you're saying I need to solder on the inductor? And where is that component that I am measuring exactly? - do you have a diagram at all? Seems sooo small and difficult to properly measure anything there lol.

This might be over my level of skill. Any videos or tutorials you recommend?

Or would you know of a place or type of place in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area I could take it to and specify exactly what I needed done?

What specifically should I buy on this site:

https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Component...

YOU ARE AMAZING!! Much love!!

da

John Rezai see if my colleague @mayer can help you out with this. If he can't do it I am sure he knows people in the area that can. The @ before his username will notify him of this ;-)

da

Also -even if I am able to replace that inductor, do you see any other damage in that picture? to the display data cable pins? the data cable connector? or other inductor / parts of the board? Looks like the cable is missing a pin? and the connector on the board is worn out?

Since it looks like the inductor in question completely fell off the logic board I don't have anything to measure. I looked up a new one:

https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

Any place I can get the schematic and get the exact inductor size, etc?

Again, YOU ARE AMAZING!

da

Ah sorry didn't see your last message about your colleague! Thank you so much! Hopefully he will get in touch!

da

John Rezai just measure from the endpoint of the solder pads to the end of the next solder pad. There is enough room on the side that an approximation of the package size will be sufficient. All the schematics show is that it is a 250 Ohm ferrite bead. As for your data cable, yes that does look damaged. This is potentially where the short occured.

da

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John Rezai sarà eternamente grato.
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