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Movies, music, multimedia in your home. Use our guides to repair home entertainment devices from surround sound A/V receivers or conventional stereo receivers to power amplifiers, preamplifier, speakers, and iPod/Bluetooth speaker systems.

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No sound coming out of my sound bar help please I have a jbl cinema sb

I have a jbl cinema sb400 two days ago it stopped working so I don’t get no sound from the aux,Bluetooth or neither the hdmi or the optical output so I went to bestbuy with the geek squad crew but they couldn’t help they said they will send it Texas so I want to ask you my people of ifixit how can i fix it myself I look at the website and some people said it’s a bad preamp but how I changed it and what is it exactly I think the people of I fix it should open a new category for home theater sound system

Update (08/31/2018)

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Hello Dan thanks for your reply I been looking for 2 hours for the IC but I connot find them I found those IC801 and IC802 but not the IC (tpa3116) how I do it or it will be under different name please help me can you point it out with a screenshot and draw a circle please thanks

Update (09/01/2018)

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Thank you for your help my friend i saw page 31 and i guess the ic U501 and U502 are under the heatsink correct???? I really appreciate your help my friend

Update (09/01/2018)

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Thats the

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@victorifixit post some good images of your boards with your question. That way we can see what your boards look like. It might help @abrsvc to identify the IC for you. Use this guide Aggiungere immagini ad una domanda for that

da

Hello how you doing bro i found them they were under the heatsink but it doesn't seem like burn or anything

[image|1533773] there is anyway to test them??

da

yes there is but it will depend on what type of measuring equipment you have. Let's see if @abrsvc is going to pick this up for you.

da

How do i know they are bad ???

da

@victorifixit as a normal DIY'er and without having access to an oscilloscope etc., it will be very difficult to test those. Personally I disagree that those are the problem. But then I do not know as much as those that have fixed 100's of these. You have checked to make sure that you have power going to all components. It turns on but has no sound. Correct? What have you checked thus far? What tools do you have?

da

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On the internet I read a lot of issues about the JBL soundbar, most of them have suddenly no sound at all everything seems to work fine, the on/off, input change, Bluetooth, pairing with subwoofer, remote etc. etc. all works fine but there is no sound from the bar or from the subwoofer.

The cost JBL is charging for repairing is so high it is not economic anymore. So the dump is the only way left?

Due to the many problems with this JBL soundbar I read on the internet, and the high costs JBL calculate for repairing it, it is time to do some investigation on what's going wrong with this piece of China electronics........

Please see my youtube video how to fix this problem with “no sound” out of the JBL soundbar……

https://youtu.be/bpaNqYrh2tU

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Hi @henzelmen ,

Well done to find the cause of the problem.

You didn't happen to notice if the inductor was rattling about in the soundbar by any chance?

I'm wondering though if the "nc" designation means "no change" (replacement "has to be" the same value or 'not changed' when the last time the circuit was updated), rather than "not connected". If it were "not connected" the soundbar should have been working without it

da

Hi Jayeff, thanks for your compliment.

I don't mention about it in the video, but I did search for a loose coil but did not find it. Now the coil is so small that it can be rolled out unnoticed when the loudspeaker was opened by me. Later, when everything was mounted again, I thought I did not look if the coil might have been stuck to one of the loudspeaker magnets, so ... maybe it's still there.

You're absolutely right about NC, it can mean anything and without a coil it just does not work. Not connected was more of a guess from me, but your explanation could absolutely be right.

da

Hi @henzelmen,

Thanks for the post. I'm not an electronics professional, so identifying the problem was very helpful. When I reviewed diagram I found several components marked "nc" and they were all empty. This means the inductor was never there. In your video, I found a comment where IC803 was the likely culprit. That was the case with my board. The chip gets very hot and I think it fried. My concern with this solution is there are 2 separate 5v rails separated by that inductor. Adding the inductor would pull more current from the other 5v power source.

When I replaced IC803 (78M09), I put a heat sink on it. To fit, I had to cut a hole in the case. The hole is covered by the front bezel. After I replaced the chip, I measured with a temp gun and it did get very hot very fast. After 90 min of use, the heat sink measured 69°C (156°F). I couldn't imagine the temp without a heat sink.

da

Hi Jeremy,

good research!

Meanwhile it is known that more 5 volt supply voltages are present. At that time I did not know it yet, I thought it was strange that the coil was not there. A new coil immediately solved the problem for me, which is why I did not look any further. Now I know there must be a different problem but the soundbar still functions every day. If it fails again I will continue to search for the 5 volt controller.

Thank you for your comment and I wish you good luck with the JBL.

da

Like henzelmen, I replaced the 78M09 by a LM2596S based Stepdown , adjusted to Vout=9.0V, no heatsink required. BTW my coil was also missing, and It is required, I placed a „normal“ 15uH 1A non-SMD and the soundbar rocks again.

da

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Hi @victorifixit ,

Here’s a link to the service manual for your system.

When the sentence below the Document preview box changes from This file is downloadable free of charge: ...processing... to This file is downloadable free of charge: Download, click on Download, as this is the download link. Be patient, it takes a little while to find the file.

It contains the circuit details and parts list which may help you solve your problem.

I suggest that you check the power supply outputs first to make sure that they’re OK.

If you don’t know what you’re doing you can cause more problems than you had before you started. I suggest that you contact a reputable, professional electronics repair service and ask for a quote to repair the system.

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Hello,

I had the “no sound” issue as well. In my case the voltage regulator IC801 was broken. Service manual says it has to give fixed output of 1.8v and in my measurement I saw its output is a 1.2v.

Replacing with a new one (specifically AMS1117-1.8, 1A) fixed the problem.

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Hope that helps.

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Funny I found the same on my board, I replace the Voltage regulator also, but it sometimes works and some times doesn’t

Very weird

I’m now at a loss as to what is the problem

da

The problem is, the excessive heat on the 78M09 unsolders the coil, the AMS1117 was still OK thus I replaced the 78M09 by a LM2596S based Stepdown , adjusted to Vout=9.0V, no heatsink required. BTW coil is required, I placed a „normal“ 15uH 1A non-SMD and the soundbar rocks again.

da

I also had the "no sound" problem, but with the SB300. Also in my case the voltage regulator IC801 was defective. The datasheet of the built-in device SA1117B-1.8V (Silan Microelectronics) states that there must be a fixed output of 1.8V, and from my measurement I saw that its output is 0.9V. I replaced the SA1117B-1.8V with an AMS1117-1.8V and immediately I had sound again.

da

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These systems contain pre-amps and amps. The sound bar will take the incoming signal and filter out the low end and send it via bluetooth to the sub-woofer. A few questions:

1) Does the system still "pair"? Is the pair light on, on the subwoofer?

2) Are you getting any sound at all from the soundbar?

If no sound at all, then I would suspect a problem with the soundbar. A problem here will prevent the sub-woofer from working. Start with the soundbar. Open up the back and look for discolored components or bulged components. If you can, post some pictures of what you find. We'll continue from there.

Dan

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Hello how you doing dan i have the same problem where is the pre amp or amps located on the sound bar i need help please

da

Reference the service manual using the link in Jayeff's answer. The amp is actually an IC (TPA3116). The pre-amp ison the same board which is in the sound bar itself.

da

Look at page 31 of the service manual. The ICs are surface mounted and are on the left hand side of the board. (U501 and U502). These are 32 pin ICs.

da

Sorry about the delay, a previous entered comment did not make it in...

Look again at page 31 and notice that there are connectors on the left hand side of the board. With the unit turned on and the cables removed from those connectors, measure (using a DC meter) between the + and - terminals for each of the tweeter and woofer pairs. Report the results here.

da

Did changing the pair of IC TPA3116 fix the problem?

da

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Had same issue with my SB400. All powered on, but no sound from any input. Had it checked in Dallas and it was a power supply issue. Needed to be replaced. 75$ diagnostic, 140$ total repair cost. 1 day turnaround.

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Hy ...my jbl 3.1 soundbar don't pair to bluetooth what must I do

da

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Hi, this will help if there is no +5V on R130 and R132 (like my case).

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Sorry, can you please explain further

You connected pin 4 from CN802 to both of the resistors, r130 and r132?

da

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Hi, if there is no +5V on ic 101 please check L805, mostley this inductor is comming lose from the pcb due to heat.

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Please see my video on Youtube fixing this issue………

https://youtu.be/bpaNqYrh2tU

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unfortunately my L805 was not soldered by default, so I prefer no more to dig for fault.

da

You can bypass the two solder points of L805 with a thin wire, it works fine I have find out.

da

I think that L805 wasn't lose due the heat...

It's not mounted by default. Prefix "nc" in schematics means "Not Connected". Pads looks also fine in photo by victor galeana (down). On the left side is "+5V", on the right side is "+5VD". Both has 5 V, but "+5V" is used for supply digital I.O. "+5VD" is used for supply analog op. amps and multi-channel codec. Developer left this connection option for debugging purposes, or even as an option to discount the product - maybe.

You should measure +PVCC in this case of fault. It should be 18-20V. Behind the IC803 should be about 9 V. Behind the IC804 should be 5 V. If not, problem is on PSU, IC803 or IC804. But PSU is OK in your case. I prefer to change both ICs and well test the PSU voltage.

But shorting the L805 pads by wire or ferrite bead is some kind of a way of solving... Very simple solving... But sound won't be so clear, because digital supply has noise causing by CMOS switching and it's will be transferred to op. amps, de facto to the sound quality.

da

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@henzelmen which one did you resolder I screenshot your video is it this one I'm pointing out let me know please in your video you didn't show your final picture on how it looked after the repair

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I did put a blue arrow pointing out the one you resolder or which one is it please let me know thanks

da

Yes, thats him. You can bypass the two solder points with a thin wire, it works fine i have find out.

Please see also the comments in my Youtube video!

da

I tried this before, no change

The solder points look untouched and the circuit diagram suggests it has no connection

da

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Here is the image of the disapeared L805

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Ok so I just need to resolder this right

da

I have had it soldered, with a proposed uh coil (by henzelmen) but still no sound, altough it worked once after the repair. Should I go with the solution of Fragemis? Or should I change IC801 voltage regulator?

da

Do you have a picture of this point fixed? I’m having the same issue. Used for over two years.

da

If you just resolder the coil, the problem will come back.

The desigh flaw is the heating of the 78M09 unsoldering the coil and/or fries the AMS1117. AMS1117 was found to be OK. To fix for good, I replaced the 78M09 by a LM2596S based Stepdown , adjusted to Vout=9.0V, no heatsink required. BTW my coil was also missing, and It is required, I placed a „normal“ 15uH 1A non-SMD and the soundbar rocks again.

da

@pedrito54 Can you show me how I can replace the 78M09 by a LM2596?

da

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Have the same problem. Missed L805. Replace it. Works.

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Victor sarà eternamente grato.
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