Hi,
With the power disconnected from the fridge, find and disconnect the defrost heater and then measure the defrost heater for continuity using a DMM's Ohmmeter function (Digital MultiMeter - adequate one is available for <$20 at larger hardware stores)
If the heater tests o/c (open circuit) then replace the heater.
Here is a link to one supplier. It is not a recommendation to use them. it is shown to give a location for the heater (part #618 on the diagram) and the cost of the part. There are other suppliers that may suit you better if you search online.
If the heater tests OK then reconnect the heater, change the DMM to use its' Voltmeter function, (highest AC Volts range to start with), reconnect the fridge to the power, wait until the fridge enters the defrost mode (do not know how to manually do this for your model) and then test if there is power being supplied to the heater.
>>>>>>>>Be safety aware when you do this as there are lethal voltages present<<<<<<<<<<<
If there is no power available at the heater connection then the problem is further back into the control board area (or between it and the heater) which would have to be further investigated.
Hopefully this is of some help.
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