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Repair guides and support for top and front loading Whirlpool brand washers.

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Whirlpool Duet, model WFW9151YW00, won't go through spin cycle

Whirlpool Duet front load washer, model WFW9151YW00, won't go through spin cycle but does agitate. It will drain most of the water no problem but then after the drum turns back and forth a few times, it pretty much just stops moving but the pump sounds like it's still trying to pump water out for a long time. But the little bit of water left seems like it's being pumped back and forth in the line. I can see the drain line that goes to the wall drain moving around like the machine is trying to get the water out but it appears the water is just going back and forth in the line. This goes on for several minutes until finally the machine just stops. It's a pretty loud pumping noise like a cycling back and forth sound. The pump has been replaced, the two control boards (front panel board and control board next to it) have been replaced but hasn't changed. Tried to run diagnostic test and was able to get it into diagnostic mode with the 123, 123, 123 pressing of 3 buttons but couldn't seem to get any error codes. I couldn't really figure out how to test things once in diagnostic mode. It did spin a bit, but pretty weakly in diagnostic mode at one point. It also did a real weak spin when I ran a test wash. Left the towel I threw in totally wet.

Any ideas? There is another circuit board attached to the motor and it looked ok visually. I checked the wires coming out of the motor (3 wires) and got continuity between each one and nothing to ground so it appears the windings are not shorted. The machine seems to fill, agitate and drain the bulk of the water without any problem.

Thanks for any insights on this!

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Also, there are no error codes that appear. It just times out while pumping away.

da

Solution was to replace shocks. Turns out it was an out of balance issue. But weird that there are no sensors for this, no error codes. After replacing all control boards and pressure switch it turned out to be just bad shock(s). Just came across this on another whirlpool compact unit. But this one wobbled quite a bit when trying to spin but never got into high spin. Machine will keep trying for a while then shut down. Bad shocks. Easy fix.

da

I have the same issue with Wet Clothing At The End Of The Wash Cycle.

1. The washer work OK when I put it through the Diagnostic Test. Tub fills with water, In the Wash cycle: The tub turns clockwise and counter clockwise, Tub drains out completely, the tub spin cycle went from low to high spin without any issues. I also checked for “Error Codes” on the CCU and found no issues.

2. I removed the door switch and tested it out completely. No Issues.

3. I replaced all the shocks on the tub and tested the machine again, it still registered an out of balance condition and left the clothes in the washer soaking wet

4. I checked the MCU for loos connections, bad capacitors, burned resisters, and diodes. Found no visible problems with the board or motor.

After all this I still have a washer that is not out of balance, but somehow registers an out of balance condition. I would like to know what sensor registers an out of balance condition, so I could adjust or replace this sensor instead just replacing parts.

da

Hello I am having a similar issue but mine doesn’t spin at all and don’t drain? Any ideas maybe the pump?

da

Cleaned out the drains, new pump, throws codes. This machine is heavy for me to pull in and out all the time. Could it be the board. Please help me, I'm too old and no money to continue replacing everything. Please someone.

da

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Soluzione Prescelta

Yeah, this was a frustrating machine to work on: I replaced the CCU, the pump, the pressure switch...nothing changed. Still no spin. Then I changed the MCU with motor, still no spin but a bit more movement back and forth. Finally changed the shocks and got high speed spin! Nowhere in the tech sheet does it say anything about shocks stopping the spin cycle!! There are no error codes! The machine wasn't banging or anything but the drum did look a bit sloppy when I tried washing a towel and I kept thinking it seemed like an out of balance issue. But nowhere could I find anything about how the machine senses an out of balance condition until I came across a post in which someone mentioned the motor senses voltage changes based on the motion of the drum. Again, nothing about this in the tech sheet. And on top of that, the tech sheep appears to give misinformation on testing the pressure switch. But that's another topic.

So in conclusion...look at the machine carefully and if it looks like the drum is wobbling around quite a bit when it's trying to go into spin, try replacing the shocks. I went ahead and replaced the springs too but probably didn't need to as they still seemed fine but one shock did have visible grease on the shaft so I think the shocks go out sooner. If that doesn't do it, it might be a combination of the MCU/motor and the shocks but probably just the shocks. Good luck and hope this helped.

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I have exact same issue. I have replaced pump and water sensor switch. I thought I fixed and left the top off for about 2 months. (Very tired of taking apart) Put the cover on today and the very first load it wouldn’t high speed spin again. Very frustrating.

da

You have described the exact same issue I am having with my washer. I replaced the pressure switch first because, you're right, the tech manual gives incorrect pin readings for a "bad" switch. The brand new one appeared "broken" when running the same test. I replaced the pump and still nothing. I am really hoping you're right that it's the shocks because I am sick of taking this machine apart all the time.

da

Hi Chris, do you get notified about this response? I have the exact same problem as you. I replaced the pump and the pressure switch with no luck. I went out and bought new shocks yesterday but comparing the old ones to the new ones, they appear to be identical. I mean, the appearance, resistance, and behavior is the same. The old ones just have a bit of grease visible on them. I am hesitant to swap them out because I won't be able to return them if it ends up not fixing the problem. Did you notice a difference between the old and new shocks when you replaced yours?

da

We have had the same exact issues also. We've replaced drive belt, springs and shocks. The first use after installing the new parts and it spun out once in high speed but hasn't again after that. Getting very frustrated and not exactly sure where to go next..mcu?

da

Same washer WFW9151YW00, same problem with final hi-speed spin. read these solutions and replaced the shocks. They come in a pack of 4 but there were only 3 installed. Now there IS a spot for the fourth and the tub and the base have connecting slots so I installed the 4th one. First cycle went through like a champ and I was patting myself on the back. The second time the washer seemed to forget what to do in the spin cycle again. with 9 minutes to go it was just sitting there pumping drain water, so I pushed the "pause" button waited and pushed it again, spin cycle continued for 7 minutes and it went idle again. I pushed the "pause" button twice again and the high speed spin finished it's cycle. The time left was 1 minute but it spun for at least 5 minutes until dry. is there a possibility of a lack of communication with in the machine?

da

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Risposta Più Utile

Cause 1

Lid Switch Assembly

The lid switch assembly prevents the washer from spinning when the lid is open. If the lid switch assembly fails, the washer will not spin. To determine if the lid switch assembly is defective, use a multimeter to test the lid switch for continuity. If the lid switch does not have continuity, replace it.

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Thanks for the reply but this is a front load washer. It will go into a slow spin in diagnostic mode with nothing in the washer so that tells me the door switch is functioning. Am I my incorrect?

da

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I had the same problem. My Whirlpool Duet wouldn’t spin. After a lot of research and worrying it came to mind that maybe my washer wouldn’t spin because I had only one sweatshit in there, which forced it out of balance. After spending a lot of time trying to figure out how to fix it I decided to try a full load of towels. All cycles worked, including the spin cycle. I quickly cancelled the parts I ordered online to fix what turned out to be a simple problem. Don’t try to wash one heavy item. Your washer will be out of balance and the sensors will not allow it to spin.

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Basically the same issue, no high speed spin. What gets me is this is such a common issue on all the forums it seems to me as a former Black Belt Six Sigma Quality VP there is a bad design/defective product here which Whirlpool continues to make money on (my WPW7500VW 2 was designed and released in 2008) by selling all kinds of expensive parts. They wanted $281 for the Motor Control Assembly. I got it locally from an Appliance Parts store which gave me a $60 refund when I turned in the core unit, and then took off 10% since I was a vet. And that's given the starting part fee was only $201. This has all the signs of a class action suit to me.

But, to return to the issue now that I've vented. I ran the diagnostics per the booklet, and it ran through all steps and everything worked as advertised with no error codes, so not sure how good the diagnostics program is for troubleshooting.

One tech recommended opening the front, disconnecting the lower pump filter and check to make sure nothing blocking it. It's the little black cap on the bottom front on my unit. It does have water in it so make sure you have a flat tray to catch the water. Mine was clean and clear. And, by the way , they talk about removing the front by taking out the three screws on the bottom behind the kick plate. They don't mention that you also have to remove the upper front control console to unscrew two screws in the top of the front cover. OBTW, to get to the front cover screws you have to remove the top of the machine by unscrewing three screws in the top back of the top cover and sliding it backward. Then you can access the two screws in the console along with the three behind the dispenser drawer which you have to take out.

Back to the things to check. One tech mentioned if the hose from the pressure check device is clogged it won't allow the machine to spin. It's on the right hand side of the tub about half way down. Took hose off, blew it out (noting blocking it) and also lightly blew into pressure check valve and could hear the switch inside activating properly.

Have no oil leaks inside nor underneath.

One individual said it was the shocks gone bad. Guess that will be next thing I check. Since it's a stack unit I have to take dryer down off the top. It's in an RV. Had to take doors off since dryer won't slide out with doors on closet it's in. Neither unit would fit down the hall without removing sliding doors, so not in position to just buy new washer/dryer of different brand.

There are about three different forums I've seen, so get on them an read them all. However, you are going to find there are nearly as many different recommendations as there are techs answering the questions about why Whirlpools machines won't go into high spin mode. Good Luck. If I come up with a solution, I'll get back and post. But as a work around, you can wash a load, then go into the quick diagnostics, and advance straight to the last phase which is #4. It will do a high speed spin for most issues. At least you won't be taking out soping wet clothes. VR.

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I think the replacement pumps are inferior to original. My original pump pumped all water out this seems to get most then seems to pump back and forth…I got the first pump for this maytag from sears parts central when I saw how it pumped I decided to splurge and get pump directly from Maytag..both are identicle both not the same pump with different power ratings. So I am about to put in the maytag pump in hoped the sears one was defective. now diagnostics ran and it spun. I did a second tie and it didn't spin or give error code. pressure switch tested but the continuity although it doesn't say it when no pressure one set will have continuity. with pressure the other set will have continuity.that part is missing from manual and you will think your pressure switch is bad when it is OK. I replaced shocks and yes a little sturdier but still no spin on a washload. sooo I think since I have the springs I will put them in and then the pump from maytag although it is the same as from sears made by whirlpool. my maytag front load is model MHWE251YG…and this issue should be easy to solve yet it seems real info is very scarce… I dont need to know how to clear out the debri in pump filter….so ill update later.

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I inherited this washer when I bought my home four months ago. I'm not handy when it comes to washer repair (understatement), After reading all of these posts, my solution is expensive but seems to make the most sense. I'm buying a new washer. I think that this machine is a total lemon and I'm not going to continue fooling around with it for the next number of years when there are lots of washers out there that last for many years without a problem. It won't be a Whirlpool.

da

Thumps up to Susan. This is indeed a disposable model.

da

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I had one customers doing the same thing , change pressure switch and hose which did not solve. Was not spinning any or little during rinse an spin or would just stop or beep. Changed cold water valve and all was well ,works great !

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Thats tricky ! (won`t spinning fast mode during the last spinning cycle ,leave soak and wet clothes)

Model :Whirlpool WFC7500VW0 (front load)

*No water pump issue ,caused when it drain goes fast .

*No clog issues ,cause when drain goes fast.

*No code shows up when running Universal test .

*No worn out motor driving belt, caused Universal test its did fast mode for the max motor test ,no visually damaged

Possible reason : Balance with sensor`s issue or MCU problem

For the Chris comments its about the SHCOKS .The balance issue caused from “the motor senses voltage changes based on the motion of the drum” or other parts wear and tear caused unbalance .

or Other unbalance loading clothes issue, try to shake the washer during the last cycle .

For the MCU ,have no clues about how to diagnosis it.

Any comments about this “ GHOST WETTY “

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I have a whirlpool duet front-loading washer . It spins and removes the water from the drum and from the clothes and there is no water in the hose but later water comes back into the drum.

da

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This is a disposable washer, super frustrating to work on, prone to mold, with overpriced repair parts.

For diagnostic codes see Whirpool PART NO. W10252711

Available on iFixit as [http://BJnSBmcneT4GLiLF|whirlpool duet tech sheet]

www.ifixit.com/Document/BJnSBmcneT4GLiLF/Whirlpool-Duet-Techsheet.pdf

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Based on the information you have provided, it sounds like the issue may be related to the motor control board or the motor itself. Even though you visually inspected the motor control board, it is still possible that there could be a fault that is causing the motor to not spin properly.

You can try running the diagnostic test again and see if any error codes show up. If there are no error codes, try running the motor spin test to see if the motor is able to spin properly. If it does not, it may be necessary to replace the motor control board or the motor itself.

Another possibility is that there could be a blockage in the drain line or pump, which is causing the water to not fully drain from the machine. You can try checking the drain line and pump for any obstructions and clear them if necessary.

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Hello All,

Same issue with Whirlpool WFW9640X00

Diagnostics completing with no error, the last test is the high speed spin which runs fine

In all wash modes including Drain and Spin and Rinse and Spin, the washer seems to 'stick' on the initial slow spin after draining the water. It appears to be trying to balance the load by spinning it in both directions, does this for several minutes then ends the cycle.

Now i did the test with no clothes in the washer and it did the same thing, so i am confused. is it still detecting an out of balanced load with no clothes in the washer?

I had replaced the Motor Control board and the shocks. I checked the filter in the pump and it's clean. The Tub bearings were also recently replaced. Not sure what i should check or replace next.

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WFW9470WL01

Same exact issue. MCU went bad, replaced with new, now just sticks in unbalanced mode. Never gets to high speed spin in Cycle mode. Passes all C00-C08 and gets high spin no problem. Pump is pumping water and clean, no clogs, no leaks, diaphragm in pressure switch is good. No errors in diagnostics mode, high spin, in any cycle just stays in unbalanced mode. Unplugging and letting it sit doesn't work. Need a button configuration for calibration I think but there is nothing on the Internet or in the manual about how to calibrate this model. Using clean washer mode works as normal, even high spin, but all cycles do not with or with out load. Doesn't make any sense. Also has new shock. It spins like new in diagnostics mode.

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Perhaps I should not even bother the forum about a ten year old machine but this issue has become frustrating. The washer recently began to intermittently finish a normal wash cycle with the clothes essentially soaking wet following the spin cycle. I suspected a drain clog preventing the drain pump from evacuating the tub water occasionally, so I addressed the laundry drain issue with drain cleaner and a snake auger. When the problem became more frequent I found a pocket full of change in the pre-drain pump filter chamber and ordered a replacement drain pump in the event that a nickel, dime or quarter had damaged the pump impeller. While I was disassembling the drain connections to the pump assembly I felt what I thought was a check valve mechanism within the approximate three and one half inch wash tub drain outlet. Since I had descended into the rabbit hole halfway I climbed all the way inside, disconnected that three inch + factory installed clamp to discover a two and one half inch plastic ball I may insert the picture I took merely to prove I am not writing fan fiction to entertain the crowd. With all the replacement parts and renewed clamps and retainers we are left with inadequate spin cycles. The drive belt is not frayed, loose or stretched, the spin cycle itself seems to generate sufficient force that water should be extracted normally, but such is not the case. In another forum on You Tube a young man suggested replacing the "wax motor" that plugs into the door latch mechanism... problem is the door latch mechanism on this model machine does not have a third connector to receive a replacement wax motor. I have opened every access panel, loosened every quarter inch bolt and T5 torx head screw attempting to find where the wax motor is hidden on this model washer. Right now I'm running successive cycles of the machine wash cycle attempting to counter any possible detergent build-up (we don't use anything except HE-rated detergent) and there have been no self diagnostic codes displayed. As Whirlpool replacement parts are concerned; their proprietary/arbitrary price-gouging (I won't even begin to rant about RO water filtration components) is enough to make me start the process all over again with brand new appliances and then hope I can beat them to my own date with the incinerator prior to their trip to the county recycle bin. Right now I just ran a small test load selecting the small load cycle, which did not perform a satisfactory spin cycle; I then ran another rinse and spin cycle (12 minute option w/o extra rinse) and the load came out ready for the dryer. If the machine performs the function completely some of the time how to go about isolating what component is intermittently lazy? With all the comments posted here and other places I'm not feeling like the Lone Ranger w/o Tonto any longer.

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Chris sarà eternamente grato.
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