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13" aluminum unibody, 2.0 or 2.4 GHz Core 2 Duo processor.

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MacBook unibody keyboard ribbon cable won't go in

It is only going in less than 1/16" and won't lock down. I have tried a bit of tape for leverage, I have a good angle on it, it just won't go in. I have the midwall off, and I have plenty of room, it just refuses to go in and lock. what am I doing wrong? Thanks.

Risposto! View the answer Anch'io ho questo problema

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Did you release the locking tab?

da

Yes I did release the locking tab

da

thank you ifixit .!!! this thread totally saved my rebuild!!!

da

so here's my problem i replaced the keyboard on a macbook pro 2010 13inch.

when i plug in the power it turns on... problem is my keyboard doesn't work, i think its because i dont have it in far enough so at this point im not sure what to do, i tried releasing the lock and pushing it in as well as i could and still the keyboard wont function

da

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I finally figured it out, and maybe this will help someone else. The cable is a really tight fit, you have to use an uncomfortable amount of force for it to go in. I placed a piece of tape on the connector and then PULLED it in with that. Good luck!

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Agreed, pulling it in with tape is the way to go. I used to have trouble with that, too.

da

Thanks so much for the pointer! I couldn't get it in using the spudger alone but the tape and brute force worked perfectly!

da

Tape was perfect!!!

Thanks for the advice...

da

Yes this helped me as well. Used tape and spudger. Thanks!

da

The tape saved my life! Struggled with this on and off for the better part of an hour. Stuck a piece of tape on the ribbon and had it fixed in a few seconds. Marvellous!

da

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Sounds like tape might be the best way to get the cable back in, but if you don't have any tape handy, what worked for me was tweezers. I carefully inserted one side of the cable into the socket, and then with tweezers, gently coaxed the other side of it into the socket. Once it was lined up, I nudged the cable forward until it was all the way in, and then locked it in place with the locking tab. I also use a lamp with a built-in magnifying glass for stuff like this...makes a big difference.

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I agree. Using tweezers when working with ribbon cables and sockets is a must.

da

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Here’s another fix. I replaced the trackpad, hard drive, and RAM chips on my early 2011 17” unibody. Had to take out fans motherboard and battery. I got the machine back together and booted up but found that neither the trackpad nor the keyboard worked. The trackpad does click to enter but does not control the mouse. For the keyboard I had the same problem with the connector. I also managed to break off the locking lever. I tried at least five different methods, tape, plastic shim, etc. the end of the keyboard tape was starting to look a bit beat up from all of my attempts. I could see that the row of metal contacts on the top of the wire tape was not going completely into the connector socket. I had resigned myself to getting an external keyboard and in desperation tried one last thing. I took a straight edge razor blade and with a small piece of wood (tongue depressor) underneath as a cutting board I cut off the end of the tape, somewhere between 1/64” and 1/32”. I inserted the trimmed wire tape into the connector and the top row of metal contacts now disappeared into the housing. I put the broken locking lever back in place, put a piece of scotch tape over the whole mess, booted up and it worked! Keyboard back in action! If anyone has an idea about how to get the trackpad mouse to work, let me know.

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I also broke off the lever by accident m. I could figure out which way does the lever suppose to go? I had the two sides that suppose to hold the lever chipped off (if that makes any sense), do you have any pictures of your contraption? It would be very helpful to see how you get it fixed? Thank you!

da

Excellent tip! I just cut a small slice from the ribbon and now it goes back in to connector and keyboard working again.

da

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I put a piece of spaghetti (thin and uncooked) under the cable which gives a bit more to push on and you can roll it in. This was after 3 hours of trying other methods though,

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Bringing this thread back to life. I’m not sure if I damaged the cable or not, but once I was able to get the Mac turned on I am not able to use various keys - shift, command, option, caps lock, up, down, left, right, and a few others. Could this be caused by a damaged cable?

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im having the same problem...however it is the top row of letters...

da

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Thanks for this. The new battery I used, moved this cable caused me to think I had a failed logic board. But I found that this ribbon cable was the culprit.

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I broke off the locking tab on mine. Is there a way to unlock it with some microscopic tools?

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me too. be really careful when you force the cable in.

da

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Oh, my god. It worked. I wish I had discovered this before I actually fried my motherboard trying to fix it.

To those who don't understand, I didn't get it either, but it's exactly what it sounds like. Put the ribbon cable where you wanted to go, put a long piece of sticky tape on the back and press it down with your finger and then pull the tape in the direction that you want the ribbon cable to go.if you move the tape around and do this side-by-side, you will see, it will slide the ribbon cable into the harness, even though it seems like that would never work.

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I tore the locking tab. Any other ways to secure the ribbon in the port?

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Thank you so much @boo

I had to change my trackpad cable wich is under my motherboard.so I had to remove the motherboard. MacBook Pro mid 2009

After putting all back my macbook didn't turn on, i was sure I putted everything back in the right order..... Except the ribbon cable:-) The tape did the trick! I can't thank you enough for this:-)

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Same problem.

I had to change the magsafe board because it wasn’t charging. Everything seemed to go okay, but now the MB doesn’t boot. The charging light comes on when the magsafe charger is connected, so that problem might be solved.

I’ve tried the suggested tape method to slide the keyboard cable into the connector better, but still no go. So, I want to ask just HOW FAR the cable has to be inserted? I can just see a thin line of metal contacts on the cable when it is inserted. Should it go in far enough so that you DON’T see the contacts?

On the iFixit page about changing the top case, the foto in the take apart shows the thin line of contacts just before removing the cable. See STEP 14 here: MacBook Unibody Model A1342 Upper Case Replacement

I’ve fixed a fair number of MacBooks, but if the problem here is not the cable then I guess I fried the motherboard.

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My A1278 keyboard ribbon has what appears to be a thin plastic film over the end contacts. Should I peal this film off before insertion? I believe the film is meant as protection for the end contacts. Please advise.

da

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I don’t think the plastic tape is to be removed - I removed mine and wish I hadn’t. I think it’s there to add structural integrity when connecting. I’m still working on getting mine to work. Good luck.

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My problem (during replacement of the keyboard) was this: I took off the coloured piece of plastic (blue or red) at the end of the ribbon cable on the replacement keyboard (DON’T DO THAT), thinking it was some protective isolation. It was far enough in the socket but just too thin to hold for the socket lock. Magically worked after putting that piece of plastic back on. Didn’t need much for at all (or the tape for that matter which I tried as well). Hope it helps anyone, leave the plastic on!


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boo sarà eternamente grato.
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