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The Nintendo 3DS XL 2015, marketed as the New Nintendo 3DS XL, was released October 11, 2014 in Japan and February 13, 2015 in North America.

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My New 3DS won't turn on after DIY repair attempt

So, recently my N3DS's thumbpad was a bit wonky, and I opened up the system to clean it. Well, after I put it back together, it took an unusually long time to boot up, and when it did, it had a tendency to randomly freeze for a few seconds, and it couldn't read the microSD card. So, I tried taking the card out and putting it back in... while the machine was on. When it told me not to do that while it was on, I turned it off and took the card out and put it back in again.

Then, it wouldn't start at all. At first, the blue light came on briefly, then a it made a quick *pop* sound and turned off. And now, it won't even do that. I've tried plugging it in, and nothing happened. The orange light did come on, but it wouldn't turn on.

I've taken pictures of the parts I've done things with, if that helps:

http://tinypic.com/r/20mwd0/9

http://tinypic.com/r/j5cqph/9

http://tinypic.com/r/2qdnccw/9

http://tinypic.com/r/v6lssw/9

http://tinypic.com/r/xnuuxj/9

http://tinypic.com/r/33p921d/9

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Okay, so that "pop" sound is generally from a damaged ribbon from the upper section to the board on the lower section.

When you got that "pop" sound, did you notice that the screen flickered white briefly? If so, then this is your culprit. You'll need to completely disassemble your machine and inspect the ribbons from the upper section. Since you've already disassembled the bottom half, use this to help get the upper half open

Sostituzione schermo LCD superiore Nintendo 3DS XL

Getting the upper LCD/speakers/etc ribbons out for inspection can be a bit tricky. You'll need to get the upper half off from the lower half and if the new 3DS XL LL is similar to the old 3DS XL, then you'll need to maneuver the clicking hinge from the locking mechanism. This can be done with a very tiny flat head bit and pushing the clicking part back into the upper housing from the lower section. If you get the two separated, then you'll need to maneuver the ribbons out of the lower section. After that, you'll need to curl the ribbons up into a tight tube and feed them back through the joint. From there, you can inspect the ribbons for tears or breaks, which I'm certain is the problem.

If you attempt to do the above, take your time and be patient, it's a very delicate process but you'll find the problem ribbon. For me, it was the speaker ribbon that had a 1cm cut that tore 2-3 wires.

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I had this exact symptom (including popping sound from the left speaker and NO signs of life from the screens) and it was because the P12 ribbon cable wasn’t plugged in. (the tiny one on the lower right) It got hidden out of sight below the motherboard and I overlooked it.

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Popful Frost sarà eternamente grato.
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