LCD panel replacement has different part numbers

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MacBook Unibody A1278

13" aluminum unibody, 2.0 or 2.4 GHz Core 2 Duo processor.

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jarolefebvre @jarolefebvre

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Postato: 28 gen 2014

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LCD panel replacement has different part numbers

My LCD panel is defective.

The model number is LP133WX2-TLC3.

Can I replace it with a LP133WX2-TLG6?

(Or other part numbers that start with LP133WX2?)

I ask this because I could buy a cheaper LP133WX2-TLG6.

Thanks!

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originalmachead @originalmachead

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Postato: 28 gen 2014

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Follow the advice of the vendor as to what is compatible (they all have charts or tables). Also ask for a written guarantee that what you buy fits your machine so that you do not incur restock or return fees.

If this answer is acceptable please remember to return and mark it.

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5 Commenti:

The ebay-seller also has no idea if it's compatible..

28 gen 2014 da jarolefebvre

Then they haven't sold many (If they offer no guarantee I would look for a vendor that does) . You've offered no links or specific information for anyone to use. Compare the specifications of the two units. Does the one you're proposing have an LVDS connection?

29 gen 2014 da originalmachead

I ordered a LP133WX2-TLC3 just to be sure. I received a LP133WX3-TLA6. I was mad at the seller in the beginning, but it works perfectly. Had to change some color/contrast settings to look 100% the same but works. Also, duo to stupidity, I blew up the mini-fuse for the LED-driver chip on the motherboard (generates the power for the display lightning). I bridged the blown fuse with a wire I got out of a glass fuse, and display backlight works again great. Jeez :)

1 feb 2014 da jarolefebvre

How/why did the fuse blow?

2 feb 2014 da originalmachead

Why: because my backlight of my screen didn't work anymore. When inserting the screen, I probably shorted some pins (I tried to replace the screen with the computer powered on). When I placed a bright light after the panel, I could see that the screen was working.

How: First locate the fuse. It is close to the LED-driver chip. It is really small and has a P or a dot on the package. (looks like a SMD resistor / SMD capacitor).

I opened a glass fuse with a value of 2A and used that wire to bridge the SMD fuse. So when I short it again, the wire melts and not the driver chip. I did it with a small solder-iron and a tweezer. I first attached one side of the wire, then made a loop and then soldered the other side. Then I carefully cut the wires short to the solder, so they don't short other stuff in the future.

Hope this helps. It's rather easy, but you have to have a steady hand and a really good set of eyes.

http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/images/hardware...

3 feb 2014 da jarolefebvre

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Then they haven't sold many (If they offer no guarantee I would look for a vendor that does) . You've offered no links or specific information for anyone to use. Compare the specifications of the two units. Does the one you're proposing have an LVDS connection? — originalmachead
I ordered a LP133WX2-TLC3 just to be sure. I received a LP133WX3-TLA6. I was mad at the seller in the beginning, but it works perfectly. Had to change some color/contrast settings to look 100% the same but works. Also, duo to stupidity, I blew up the mini-fuse for the LED-driver chip on the motherboard (generates the power for the display lightning). I bridged the blown fuse with a wire I got out of a glass fuse, and display backlight works again great. Jeez :) — jarolefebvre
Why: because my backlight of my screen didn't work anymore. When inserting the screen, I probably shorted some pins (I tried to replace the screen with the computer powered on). When I placed a bright light after the panel, I could see that the screen was working.

How: First locate the fuse. It is close to the LED-driver chip. It is really small and has a P or a dot on the package. (looks like a SMD resistor / SMD capacitor).

I opened a glass fuse with a value of 2A and used that wire to bridge the SMD fuse. So when I short it again, the wire melts and not the driver chip. I did it with a small solder-iron and a tweezer. I first attached one side of the wire, then made a loop and then soldered the other side. Then I carefully cut the wires short to the solder, so they don't short other stuff in the future.

Hope this helps. It's rather easy, but you have to have a steady hand and a really good set of eyes.

http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/images/hardware... — jarolefebvre