The problem here is the AMOLED screens cost so much it will quickly total out an old Samsung (unless you get a deal on a minor defect replacement).[br]
You likely broke the screen, which is more common now since the glass is stronger than the display. The problem with Samsung’s unreasonable repair cost is one generation will do it with a cheap phone, maybe 2-3 on an expensive flagship. Beyond that, it's BER in many cases.
Since buying the bare screen will likely total the phone out, your second best option is a choice:
* Bad IMEI donor (match the carrier device class as best you can. Should not matter on the S8, but Sprint was still being quirky on these). ***HINT: Get one that was blocked by T-Mobile for nonpayment since they block it after 60 days. GSM variants are the same except for the carrier branding, ROM, and bootloader lock signature. However if your T-Mo "finance" donor was a winner like a 6a I intended to use for parts, don't mutilate it. I'm getting it unlocked :-). They are more forgiving about people leaving bad debt than AT&T and Verizon, so that's why you run from these phones outside of use as donors unless you get lucky. IT IS LITERALLY SAFER FOR SELLERS TO DISCOUNT A RISKY PHONE AND SELL IT "AS-IS" AND THEN GET A DEFECT FOR GIVING IT A CHANCE! If the buyer wins the lottery, good for them. The old IMEI will die with the board, so it doesn't matter but move your SIM tray so people know unless it's not engraved there.***[br]
***I apologize in advance to the rep who confirmed that my donor 6a probably has a clean bill of health to my surprise. I know these problems all too well.***
-
* Buy a used device (factory unlocked U, no carrier locking). Verizon ***MIGHT*** require a "certified" S8, but that's it. Nobody else really cares if it has the U1 status or not. Ideally, with an issue that kills resale like screen burn. Save the resale agony and get one where it's over with like most of them.
+
* Buy a used device (factory unlocked U, no carrier locking). Verizon ***MIGHT*** require a "certified" S8, but that's it. Nobody else really cares if it has the the "U" or "A, S, V, P" or not. Ideally, with an issue that kills resale like screen burn. Save the resale agony and get one where it's over with like most of them.
After you find a screen, follow [guide|92339|this guide] to the point you can drop the new screen into the phone. DO NOT disassemble it further - that breaks these screens so just move the board and cameras, as well as the charge port if need be.
The problem here is the AMOLED screens cost so much it will quickly total out an old Samsung (unless you get a deal on a minor defect replacement).[br]
You likely broke the screen, which is more common now since the glass is stronger than the display. The problem with Samsung’s unreasonable repair cost is one generation will do it with a cheap phone, maybe 2-3 on an expensive flagship. Beyond that, it's BER in many cases.
Since buying the bare screen will likely total the phone out, your second best option is a choice:
-
* Bad IMEI donor (match the carrier device class as best you can. Should not matter on the S8, but Sprint was still being quirky on these). ***HINT: Get one that was blocked by T-Mobile for nonpayment since they block it after 60 days. GSM variants are the same except for the carrier branding, ROM, and bootloader lock signature. However if your T-Mo "finance" donor was a winner like a 6a I intended to use for parts, don't mutilate it. I'm getting it unlocked :-). They are more forgiving about people leaving bad debt than AT&T and Verizon, so that's why you run from these phones outside of use as donors unless you get lucky. IT IS LITERALLY SAFER FOR SELLERS TO DISCOUNT A RISKY PHONE AND SELL IT "AS-IS" AND THEN GET A DEFECT FOR GIVING IT A CHANCE! If the buyer wins the lottery, good for them. The old IMEI will die with the board, so it doesn't matter but move your SIM tray so people know unless it's not engraved there.***
+
* Bad IMEI donor (match the carrier device class as best you can. Should not matter on the S8, but Sprint was still being quirky on these). ***HINT: Get one that was blocked by T-Mobile for nonpayment since they block it after 60 days. GSM variants are the same except for the carrier branding, ROM, and bootloader lock signature. However if your T-Mo "finance" donor was a winner like a 6a I intended to use for parts, don't mutilate it. I'm getting it unlocked :-). They are more forgiving about people leaving bad debt than AT&T and Verizon, so that's why you run from these phones outside of use as donors unless you get lucky. IT IS LITERALLY SAFER FOR SELLERS TO DISCOUNT A RISKY PHONE AND SELL IT "AS-IS" AND THEN GET A DEFECT FOR GIVING IT A CHANCE! If the buyer wins the lottery, good for them. The old IMEI will die with the board, so it doesn't matter but move your SIM tray so people know unless it's not engraved there.***[br]
+
***I apologize in advance to the rep who confirmed that my donor 6a probably has a clean bill of health to my surprise. I know these problems all too well.***
* Buy a used device (factory unlocked U, no carrier locking). Verizon ***MIGHT*** require a "certified" S8, but that's it. Nobody else really cares if it has the U1 status or not. Ideally, with an issue that kills resale like screen burn. Save the resale agony and get one where it's over with like most of them.
After you find a screen, follow [guide|92339|this guide] to the point you can drop the new screen into the phone. DO NOT disassemble it further - that breaks these screens so just move the board and cameras, as well as the charge port if need be.
The problem here is the AMOLED screens cost so much it will quickly total out an old Samsung (unless you get a deal on a minor defect replacement).[br]
You likely broke the screen, which is more common now since the glass is stronger than the display. The problem with Samsung’s unreasonable repair cost is one generation will do it with a cheap phone, maybe 2-3 on an expensive flagship. Beyond that, it's BER in many cases.
Since buying the bare screen will likely total the phone out, your second best option is a choice:
-
* Bad IMEI donor (match the carrier device class as best you can. Should not matter on the S8, but Sprint was still being quirky on these). ***HINT: Get one that was blocked by T-Mobile for nonpayment since they block it after 60 days. GSM variants are the same except for the carrier branding, ROM, and bootloader lock signature. However if your T-Mo "finance" donor was a winner like a 6a I intended to use for parts, don't mutilate it. I'm getting it unlocked :-). They are more forgiving about people leaving bad debt than AT&T and Verizon, so that's why you run from these outside of use as donors unless you get lucky. IT IS LITERALLY SAFER FOR SELLERS TO DISCOUNT A RISKY PHONE AND SELL IT "AS-IS" AND THEN GET A DEFECT! If the buyer wins the lottery, good for them. The old IMEI will die with the board, so it doesn't matter but move your SIM tray so people know unless it's not engraved there.***
+
* Bad IMEI donor (match the carrier device class as best you can. Should not matter on the S8, but Sprint was still being quirky on these). ***HINT: Get one that was blocked by T-Mobile for nonpayment since they block it after 60 days. GSM variants are the same except for the carrier branding, ROM, and bootloader lock signature. However if your T-Mo "finance" donor was a winner like a 6a I intended to use for parts, don't mutilate it. I'm getting it unlocked :-). They are more forgiving about people leaving bad debt than AT&T and Verizon, so that's why you run from these phones outside of use as donors unless you get lucky. IT IS LITERALLY SAFER FOR SELLERS TO DISCOUNT A RISKY PHONE AND SELL IT "AS-IS" AND THEN GET A DEFECT FOR GIVING IT A CHANCE! If the buyer wins the lottery, good for them. The old IMEI will die with the board, so it doesn't matter but move your SIM tray so people know unless it's not engraved there.***
* Buy a used device (factory unlocked U, no carrier locking). Verizon ***MIGHT*** require a "certified" S8, but that's it. Nobody else really cares if it has the U1 status or not. Ideally, with an issue that kills resale like screen burn. Save the resale agony and get one where it's over with like most of them.
After you find a screen, follow [guide|92339|this guide] to the point you can drop the new screen into the phone. DO NOT disassemble it further - that breaks these screens so just move the board and cameras, as well as the charge port if need be.
The problem here is the AMOLED screens cost so much it will quickly total out an old Samsung (unless you get a deal on a minor defect replacement).[br]
You likely broke the screen, which is more common now since the glass is stronger than the display. The problem with Samsung’s unreasonable repair cost is one generation will do it with a cheap phone, maybe 2-3 on an expensive flagship. Beyond that, it's BER in many cases.
Since buying the bare screen will likely total the phone out, your second best option is a choice:
* Bad IMEI donor (match the carrier device class as best you can. Should not matter on the S8, but Sprint was still being quirky on these). ***HINT: Get one that was blocked by T-Mobile for nonpayment since they block it after 60 days. GSM variants are the same except for the carrier branding, ROM, and bootloader lock signature. However if your T-Mo "finance" donor was a winner like a 6a I intended to use for parts, don't mutilate it. I'm getting it unlocked :-). They are more forgiving about people leaving bad debt than AT&T and Verizon, so that's why you run from these outside of use as donors unless you get lucky. IT IS LITERALLY SAFER FOR SELLERS TO DISCOUNT A RISKY PHONE AND SELL IT "AS-IS" AND THEN GET A DEFECT! If the buyer wins the lottery, good for them. The old IMEI will die with the board, so it doesn't matter but move your SIM tray so people know unless it's not engraved there.***
-
* Buy a used device (factory unlocked U1, no carrier locking). Verizon ***MIGHT*** require a "certified" S8, but that's it. Nobody else really cares if it has the U1 status or not. Ideally, with an issue that kills resale like screen burn. Save the resale agony and get one where it's over with like most of them.
+
* Buy a used device (factory unlocked U, no carrier locking). Verizon ***MIGHT*** require a "certified" S8, but that's it. Nobody else really cares if it has the U1 status or not. Ideally, with an issue that kills resale like screen burn. Save the resale agony and get one where it's over with like most of them.
After you find a screen, follow [guide|92339|this guide] to the point you can drop the new screen into the phone. DO NOT disassemble it further - that breaks these screens so just move the board and cameras, as well as the charge port if need be.
The problem here is the AMOLED screens cost so much it will quickly total out an old Samsung (unless you get a deal on a minor defect replacement).[br]
You likely broke the screen, which is more common now since the glass is stronger than the display. The problem with Samsung’s unreasonable repair cost is one generation will do it with a cheap phone, maybe 2-3 on an expensive flagship. Beyond that, it's BER in many cases.
Since buying the bare screen will likely total the phone out, your second best option is a choice:
-
* Bad IMEI donor (match the carrier device class as best you can. Should not matter on the S8, but Sprint was still being quirky on these). ***HINT: Get one that was blocked by T-Mobile for nonpayment since they block it after 60 days. GSM variants are the same except for the carrier branding, ROM, and bootloader lock signature. However if your T-Mo "finance" donor was a winner like a 6a I intended to use for parts, don't mutilate it. I'm getting it unlocked :-). They are more forgiving about people leaving bad debt then AT&T and Verizon, so that's why you run from these outside of donors unless you get lucky. IT IS LITERALLY SAFER TO SELLERS TO DISCOUNT A RISKY PHONE AND SELL IT "AS-IS" AND THEN GET A DEFECT! If the buyer wins the lottery, good for them. The old IMEI will die with the board, so it doesn't matter but move your SIM tray so people know unless it's not engraved there.***
+
* Bad IMEI donor (match the carrier device class as best you can. Should not matter on the S8, but Sprint was still being quirky on these). ***HINT: Get one that was blocked by T-Mobile for nonpayment since they block it after 60 days. GSM variants are the same except for the carrier branding, ROM, and bootloader lock signature. However if your T-Mo "finance" donor was a winner like a 6a I intended to use for parts, don't mutilate it. I'm getting it unlocked :-). They are more forgiving about people leaving bad debt than AT&T and Verizon, so that's why you run from these outside of use as donors unless you get lucky. IT IS LITERALLY SAFER FOR SELLERS TO DISCOUNT A RISKY PHONE AND SELL IT "AS-IS" AND THEN GET A DEFECT! If the buyer wins the lottery, good for them. The old IMEI will die with the board, so it doesn't matter but move your SIM tray so people know unless it's not engraved there.***
* Buy a used device (factory unlocked U1, no carrier locking). Verizon ***MIGHT*** require a "certified" S8, but that's it. Nobody else really cares if it has the U1 status or not. Ideally, with an issue that kills resale like screen burn. Save the resale agony and get one where it's over with like most of them.
After you find a screen, follow [guide|92339|this guide] to the point you can drop the new screen into the phone. DO NOT disassemble it further - that breaks these screens so just move the board and cameras, as well as the charge port if need be.
The problem here is the AMOLED screens cost so much it quickly totals out the phone in many cases, unless you get a deal on a minor defect replacement. You likely broke the screen, which is more common now since the glass is stronger then the display. The problem with Samsung’s unreasonable repair cost is one generation will do it with a cheap phone - you may get 2 out of a flagship, but after that it’s cheaper to buy a new phone and retire the broken one unless you need the data.
+
The problem here is the AMOLED screens cost so much it will quickly total out an old Samsung (unless you get a deal on a minor defect replacement).[br]
+
You likely broke the screen, which is more common now since the glass is stronger than the display. The problem with Samsung’s unreasonable repair cost is one generation will do it with a cheap phone, maybe 2-3 on an expensive flagship. Beyond that, it's BER in many cases.
Since buying the bare screen will likely total the phone out, your second best option is a choice:
-
* Buy a donor with a bad IMEI (***Hint: Financed T-Mo phones with 60+days past due finance balances - they’re doomed once that happens since nobody “owns up” to get it unblocked. They let people walk from the phone payments like deadbeats, so most T-Mo phones frequently financed are doomed — it’s so bad, that a responsible seller checks,and financing makes it “parts only” with a matched price because of the rate they get blocked anyway, so eat it and sell it “as-is”.*** Buy one where it happened since the bad IMEI turns it into a parts phone, move your board, cameras and back glass and fix your phone - verify the charge board, but it may be okay to leave be.)
-
* Buy a used device (factory unlocked, U at the end - unless you have Verizon and they want the Verizon S8 and IMEI block the U variant) with an issue that kills resale, like screen burn - this will yield a cheap device because literally 95% of them are “burned” so even a burned in notification bar gets you a deal. Unless you find a unicorn, it’s there - don’t pay more for it then you need to)
+
* Bad IMEI donor (match the carrier device class as best you can. Should not matter on the S8, but Sprint was still being quirky on these). ***HINT: Get one that was blocked by T-Mobile for nonpayment since they block it after 60 days. GSM variants are the same except for the carrier branding, ROM, and bootloader lock signature. However if your T-Mo "finance" donor was a winner like a 6a I intended to use for parts, don't mutilate it. I'm getting it unlocked :-). They are more forgiving about people leaving bad debt then AT&T and Verizon, so that's why you run from these outside of donors unless you get lucky. IT IS LITERALLY SAFER TO SELLERS TO DISCOUNT A RISKY PHONE AND SELL IT "AS-IS" AND THEN GET A DEFECT! If the buyer wins the lottery, good for them. The old IMEI will die with the board, so it doesn't matter but move your SIM tray so people know unless it's not engraved there.***
+
* Buy a used device (factory unlocked U1, no carrier locking). Verizon ***MIGHT*** require a "certified" S8, but that's it. Nobody else really cares if it has the U1 status or not. Ideally, with an issue that kills resale like screen burn. Save the resale agony and get one where it's over with like most of them.
After you find a screen, follow [guide|92339|this guide] to the point you can drop the new screen into the phone. DO NOT disassemble it further - that breaks these screens so just move the board and cameras, as well as the charge port if need be.
The problem here is the AMOLED screens cost so much it quickly totals out the phone in many cases, unless you get a deal on a minor defect replacement. You likely broke the screen, which is more common now since the glass is stronger then the display. The problem with Samsung’s unreasonable repair cost is one generation will do it with a cheap phone - you may get 2 out of a flagship, but after that it’s cheaper to buy a new phone and retire the broken one unless you need the data.
Since buying the bare screen will likely total the phone out, your second best option is a choice:
-
* Buy a donor with a bad IMEI (***Hint: Financed T-Mo phones. They let people walk from the phone payments like deadbeats, so most T-Mo phones frequently financed are doomed — it’s so bad, that a responsible seller checks, and financing makes it “parts only” with a matched price because of the rate they get blocked anyway, so eat it and sell it “as-is”.*** Buy one where it happened since the bad IMEI turns it into a parts phone, move your board, cameras and back glass and fix your phone - verify the charge board, but it may be okay to leave be.)
+
* Buy a donor with a bad IMEI (***Hint: Financed T-Mo phones with 60+ days past due finance balances - they’re doomed once that happens since nobody “owns up” to get it unblocked. They let people walk from the phone payments like deadbeats, so most T-Mo phones frequently financed are doomed — it’s so bad, that a responsible seller checks, and financing makes it “parts only” with a matched price because of the rate they get blocked anyway, so eat it and sell it “as-is”.*** Buy one where it happened since the bad IMEI turns it into a parts phone, move your board, cameras and back glass and fix your phone - verify the charge board, but it may be okay to leave be.)
* Buy a used device (factory unlocked, U at the end - unless you have Verizon and they want the Verizon S8 and IMEI block the U variant) with an issue that kills resale, like screen burn - this will yield a cheap device because literally 95% of them are “burned” so even a burned in notification bar gets you a deal. Unless you find a unicorn, it’s there - don’t pay more for it then you need to)
After you find a screen, follow [guide|92339|this guide] to the point you can drop the new screen into the phone. DO NOT disassemble it further - that breaks these screens so just move the board and cameras, as well as the charge port if need be.
The problem here is the AMOLED screens cost so much it quickly totals out the phone in many cases, unless you get a deal on a minor defect replacement. You likely broke the screen, which is more common now since the glass is stronger then the display. The problem with Samsung’s unreasonable repair cost is one generation will do it with a cheap phone - you may get 2 out of a flagship, but after that it’s cheaper to buy a new phone and retire the broken one unless you need the data.
-
Buying the bare screen may total the phone out. Your best bet is to find a used one with minor screen burn (which you really can’t avoid unless it’s a unicorn phone) or a new one at a discount with minor defects you can live with.
+
Since buying the bare screen will likely total the phone out, your second best option is a choice:
-
After you find a screen, follow [guide|92339|this guide] to the point you can drop the new screen into the phone. DO NOT disassemble it further.
+
* Buy a donor with a bad IMEI (***Hint: Financed T-Mo phones. They let people walk from the phone payments like deadbeats, so most T-Mo phones frequently financed are doomed — it’s so bad, that a responsible seller checks, and financing makes it “parts only” with a matched price because of the rate they get blocked anyway, so eat it and sell it “as-is”.*** Buy one where it happened since the bad IMEI turns it into a parts phone, move your board, cameras and back glass and fix your phone - verify the charge board, but it may be okay to leave be.)
+
* Buy a used device (factory unlocked, U at the end - unless you have Verizon and they want the Verizon S8 and IMEI block the U variant) with an issue that kills resale, like screen burn - this will yield a cheap device because literally 95% of them are “burned” so even a burned in notification bar gets you a deal. Unless you find a unicorn, it’s there - don’t pay more for it then you need to)
+
After you find a screen, follow [guide|92339|this guide] to the point you can drop the new screen into the phone. DO NOT disassemble it further - that breaks these screens so just move the board and cameras, as well as the charge port if need be.
The problem here is the AMOLED screens cost so much it quickly totals out the phone in many cases, unless you get a deal on a minor defect replacement. You likely broke the screen, which is more common now since the glass is stronger then the display. The problem with Samsung’s unreasonable repair cost is one generation will do it with a cheap phone - you may get 2 out of a flagship, but after that it’s cheaper to buy a new phone and retire the broken one unless you need the data.
-
Buying the bare screen may total the phone out. Your best bet is to find a donor with a good screen or a used panel with minor screen burn (which you really can’t avoid unless it’s a unicorn phone) or minor defects you can live with for a new display.
+
Buying the bare screen may total the phone out. Your best bet is to find a used one with minor screen burn (which you really can’t avoid unless it’s a unicorn phone) or a new one at a discount with minor defects you can live with.
After you find a screen, follow [guide|92339|this guide] to the point you can drop the new screen into the phone. DO NOT disassemble it further.
The problem here is the AMOLED screens cost so much it quickly totals out the phone :(. That said, it’s usually the first thing to go when you drop it so more then likely the board is fine, but the screen is damaged. One generation will do it with a Samsung and 2 will total a phone out with just the screen without a donor. This is old enough to need a donor, but you don’t need to be as picky about price yet.
+
The problem here is the AMOLED screens cost so much it quickly totals out the phone in many cases, unless you get a deal on a minor defect replacement. You likely broke the screen, which is more common now since the glass is stronger then the display. The problem with Samsung’s unreasonable repair cost is one generation will do it with a cheap phone - you may get 2 out of a flagship, but after that it’s cheaper to buy a new phone and retire the broken one unless you need the data.
-
Buying the bare screen totals these phones out without trying. Your best bet is to find a donor with a good screen, minor screen burn (you really can’t avoid it. There are no parts phones without it unless you get it from someone who treated the screen like a unicorn). After you find a phone, follow [guide|92339|this guide] to the point you can drop the new screen into the phone. DO NOT disassemble it further.
+
Buying the bare screen may total the phone out. Your best bet is to find a donor with a good screen or a used panel with minor screen burn (which you really can’t avoid unless it’s a unicorn phone) or minor defects you can live with for a new display.
+
+
After you find a screen, follow [guide|92339|this guide] to the point you can drop the new screen into the phone. DO NOT disassemble it further.
The problem here is the AMOLED screens cost so much it quickly totals out the phone :(. That said, it’s usually the first thing to go when you drop it so more then likely the board is fine, but the screen is damaged. One generation will so it with a Samsung and 2 will total a phone out with just the screen without a donor.
+
The problem here is the AMOLED screens cost so much it quickly totals out the phone :(. That said, it’s usually the first thing to go when you drop it so more then likely the board is fine, but the screen is damaged. One generation will do it with a Samsung and 2 will total a phone out with just the screen without a donor. This is old enough to need a donor, but you don’t need to be as picky about price yet.
Buying the bare screen totals these phones out without trying. Your best bet is to find a donor with a good screen, minor screen burn (you really can’t avoid it. There are no parts phones without it unless you get it from someone who treated the screen like a unicorn). After you find a phone, follow [guide|92339|this guide] to the point you can drop the new screen into the phone. DO NOT disassemble it further.
The problem here is the AMOLED screens cost so much it quickly totals out the phone :(. That said, it’s usually the first thing to go when you drop it so more then likely the board is fine, but the screen is damaged. One generation will so it within Samsung.
+
The problem here is the AMOLED screens cost so much it quickly totals out the phone :(. That said, it’s usually the first thing to go when you drop it so more then likely the board is fine, but the screen is damaged. One generation will so it with a Samsung and 2 will total a phone out with just the screen without a donor.
Buying the bare screen totals these phones out without trying. Your best bet is to find a donor with a good screen, minor screen burn (you really can’t avoid it. There are no parts phones without it unless you get it from someone who treated the screen like a unicorn). After you find a phone, follow [guide|92339|this guide] to the point you can drop the new screen into the phone. DO NOT disassemble it further.
The problem here is the AMOLED screens cost so much it quickly totals out the phone :(. That said, it’s usually the first thing to go when you drop it so more then likely the board is fine, but the screen is damaged.
+
The problem here is the AMOLED screens cost so much it quickly totals out the phone :(. That said, it’s usually the first thing to go when you drop it so more then likely the board is fine, but the screen is damaged. One generation will so it within Samsung.
Buying the bare screen totals these phones out without trying. Your best bet is to find a donor with a good screen, minor screen burn (you really can’t avoid it. There are no parts phones without it unless you get it from someone who treated the screen like a unicorn). After you find a phone, follow [guide|92339|this guide] to the point you can drop the new screen into the phone. DO NOT disassemble it further.
The problem here is the AMOLED screens cost so much it quickly totals out the phone :(. That said, it’s usually the first thing to go when you drop it so more then likely the board is fine, but the screen is damaged.
Buying the bare screen totals these phones out without trying. Your best bet is to find a donor with a good screen, minor screen burn (you really can’t avoid it. There are no parts phones without it unless you get it from someone who treated the screen like a unicorn). After you find a phone, follow [guide|92339|this guide] to the point you can drop the new screen into the phone. DO NOT disassemble it further.