Introduzione

Usa questa guida per sostituire lo schermo rotto o danneggiato del tuo iPhone.

Il pannello frontale non include il pulsante home, il gruppo fotocamera anteriore, l'altoparlante da orecchio una piastra di schermatura dell'LCD. Se invece il ricambio che hai comprato comprende queste parti, seguì questa guida per sostituire il gruppo display.

In ogni caso è importante trasferire il pulsante home originale sul nuovo display perché possa funzionare il Touch ID (rilevamento impronte digitali).

Puoi usare questa guida anche per sostituire le parti seguenti:

Panoramica Video

Se il tuo display è in pezzi, evita ulteriori rotture e la possibilità di ferirti durante la riparazione applicando del nastro adesivo sul vetro. Incolla striscie sovrapposte di nastro adesivo sullo schermo del tuo iPhone fino a ricoprirlo completamente. In questo modo le schegge di vetro non se ne andranno in giro e si manterrà l'integrità strutturale del pannello quando dovrai far leva e sollevare il display.
  • Se il tuo display è in pezzi, evita ulteriori rotture e la possibilità di ferirti durante la riparazione applicando del nastro adesivo sul vetro.

  • Incolla striscie sovrapposte di nastro adesivo sullo schermo del tuo iPhone fino a ricoprirlo completamente.

    • In questo modo le schegge di vetro non se ne andranno in giro e si manterrà l'integrità strutturale del pannello quando dovrai far leva e sollevare il display.

  • Indossa occhiali di sicurezza per proteggere gli occhi delle schegge di vetro che potrebbero volare via durante la riparazione.

This was the most stressful thing I have ever done. I can't get the chips to pop in the top right corner, still coming up with white lines at top of screen even after re-powering the battery. Very poor experience, will let apple or a professional handle this rather than a how to. &&^& this.

steven krieger - Replica

This is a Step 4 comment. I ordered the iSclack tool to help with my 5s battery replacement. After 30 minutes of trying to open the iPhone, I gave up and will try this later when I have a lot more time to spend on this. Before you ask, yes I did remove the two screws in Step 2. I must have a very tight fitting phone! Maybe next time I'll try a drop of oil on both suction cups to help with the adhesion. LOL, did not think I'd have trouble opening the case!

TerryChang - Replica

An update. After months of living with my dead battery (iSclack would not work for me), I decided to use the provided suction cup, and surprise - it worked! LOL, so much for the iSclack tool! In any case, I followed the instructions and though it was a bit difficult (too small parts, too fat fingers, aging eyes), I was able to replace the battery. The battery removal was a bear, but with patience (and the use of an expired credit card as my lever), it did come out. Replacement of the adhesive strips was a puzzle - I eventually installed it "backwards" (removal hole in the tab on the left vs right) but this should not affect anything. Phone is charging now and preliminary testing of the home button/digitizer seem to be working. Once fully charged I'll do a full test on the phone to ensure I put things together correctly, but THANK YOU iFixIt for these instructions!

TerryChang -

I faced the same issue. My 5S wouldn't open with the iSclack. Had to use the suction cup instead. Even then, I wrestled with it for a whole 30 minutes.. Apparently my 5S is one sticky beast.

Daylen -

Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!.. It is not necessary to take the screen completely off. I did my 5 that was and assumed the 5S had a different protocol for a reason. It doesn't require removing the creen at all. I was careful on my 5 and had no problem. I took different prcautions and watched only the video and screwed up a perfectly good 5S... This means if your not backed up you just lost all your contacts and messages videos etc.... iFix is cool except their Video is not concise like the long instructions they provide. I was stupid and figured I new what i was doing after doing a couple other batteries and bingo I screwed it...

yaterbob - Replica

Before embarking on this task, be sure you don't simply have built-up lint in the lightening port. I found that with a needle and some very CAREFUL workmanship removing lint/debris from the base of the port was what was ailing my machine.

mark40 - Replica

Before embarking on this, remember to order some new replacement sticky adhesive strips, as these do not come with the replacement battery. I didn’t realise this until I had removed the battery. I just replaced it without and have crossed my fingers!

debsmcd6 - Replica

As to my comment above, I had to order them and fit them to the battery as it was moving around inside!

debsmcd6 - Replica

There is no need to over tape the screen; one strip is enough if wider to make a full cover. My screen was super fragmented and it worked beautifully with just one layer of tape.

Andre Silva - Replica

Prima di continuare, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può prendere fuoco e/o esplodere  se viene forata accidentalmente.
  • Prima di continuare, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può prendere fuoco e/o esplodere se viene forata accidentalmente.

  • Spegni l'iPhone prima di iniziare lo smontaggio.

  • Rimuovi le due viti Pentalobe da 3,9 mm dai lati del connettore Lightning.

I used a white terrycloth hand towel as my work surface and to position and retain all the screws and part in their relative positions, so I didn't mix things up. I also magnetized the screwdriver tips and that made it very easy to deal with these tiny, tiny screws.

Magnus Dalen - Replica

For a secure working, put a small pot with lid on your workplace. When the battery starts burning, throw it in the pot, close it with the lid and get the pot safely out of the building, e.g. on the balcony or throw it out of the window. Do not try to extinct the battery with water, just let it burn out outside. This might take some hours.

Raymond Willems - Replica

This is a really helpful one! My battery caught fire but luckily it was only one cell and not the entire battery. So it was done after a few seconds and I could go on with the replacement.

Matthias Blab -

Directions should say “use the P2 screwdriver head.”

William Kolb - Replica

ifixit supplied a set of replacement philips screws (marked “Liberate!”). Thanks but I’m sticking with the pentalobe since they fit more securely than philips which have a chance of stripping if not held with the right amount of pressure.

Don Libes - Replica

What are you supposed to do if the screws are stripped or won’t come out. No luck with the tweezers either.

ibrokeit - Replica

Yep i‘ve had the same problem. One screw out, one that won‘t budge!!!

Stennett -

“cheater” reading glasses are a big help. Carolyn

Carolyn Green - Replica

In this step, it is the P02 screwdriver from the kit (see that the nib has five sides , exactly for ‘pentalobe’ screws). All the other steps involving screws it was the Philips 000 (there was a third screwdriver Y 000 in the kit which I did not use). Did not have any problems at all removing and readding screws back through the process.

Andre Silva - Replica

Nei passi successivi, tirerai via il display dal corpo del telefono. Il display è composto di uno schermo di vetro e da una cornice di plastica con clip metalliche. Indipendentemente dall'attrezzo che userai, devi essere sicuro di tirare via l'intero display. Se il vetro inizia a separarsi dalla plastica, come mostrato nella prima immagine, fai scorrere uno strumento di apertura in plastica tra il telaio in plastica e il corpo in metallo del telefono per staccare dal case le clip metalliche.
  • Nei passi successivi, tirerai via il display dal corpo del telefono. Il display è composto di uno schermo di vetro e da una cornice di plastica con clip metalliche.

  • Indipendentemente dall'attrezzo che userai, devi essere sicuro di tirare via l'intero display.

  • Se il vetro inizia a separarsi dalla plastica, come mostrato nella prima immagine, fai scorrere uno strumento di apertura in plastica tra il telaio in plastica e il corpo in metallo del telefono per staccare dal case le clip metalliche.

  • Se stai rimontando un telefono con la cornice del display che si è separata, puoi applicare una sottile striscia di adesivo tra la cornice in plastica e il vetro per tenere ben serrato il telefono.

can this separation makes the screen stop working

bassam_shallak92 - Replica

In my experience, dust particles have entered the screen, and partially ruins the wiewing experience, but this far the screen still works

Iver søbakk -

If the screen spilt and half is still stuck in the phone (clips broke and came out), how do I get the rest of the display panel up? It appears stuck, almost glued down.

Shara Nelson - Replica

I was attempting to replace the battery on a phone that had been dropped once to create a dent in the top right corner, which pushed out the screen a tiny bit in that region, but not enough to break or render it non-functional. That all changed when I attempted to open my phone. I have a 5s and I had a friend’s broken SE that I was practicing on. I did not realize that either the construction of the screen is different, or that the dent in my phone would be that much of a problem. When I opened my phone, the top of the screen popped up almost immediately…. without the plastic bevel. It took a bit to get the bottom part open, but the plastic bevel in the top part was still stuck in the frame. I panicked and closed everything, but the screen was popped out from the frame even more and now when I turn on the phone, the screen has a green tint and won’t respond to touch :’(

Zhian Kamvar - Replica

  • I prossimi due passi spiegheranno come usare l'iSclack, uno strumento per aprire in maniera sicura l'iPhone che raccomandiamo a chiunque voglia fare più di una riparazione. Se non userai l'iSclack, salta i prossimi due passi.

  • Stringi le maniglie dell'iSclack, aprendo le ganasce a ventosa.

  • Posiziona la parte bassa dell'iPhone tra le ventose, contro il distanziale di plastica dell'iSclack.

    • La ventosa superiore dovrebbe trovarsi appena sopra il pulsante Home.

  • Lascia andare le maniglie per chiudere le ganasce dell' iSclack. Centra bene le ventose e premile bene sul fronte e sul retro dell'iPhone.

DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If the glue holding the glass to the screen assembly is weak, the force from the suction cup will pull the glass straight off. Instead, use a very thin flat metal tool to slide under the front face (carefully between the plastic edge strip and the metal case) and pry up. This is not only easier, but it is also a far safer method.

Izaac Post - Replica

Thank you very much, however already used the suction cup and it came much easier than expected... Then snapped the home cable on my wife's phone... Now I have to replace that...

Thomas Hallberg -

This tool is worth its weight in gold to make opening the case without breaking things very easy. Highly recommend using it. I needed to use the little blue plastic pry bar tool on one side of the case to get the glass and frame to release from the back.

Magnus Dalen - Replica

I used this tool on 2 successful screen replacements - BUT on the third time, the force did in fact separate the glass from the plastic, so I'd suggest inspecting first, and using with care.

Andrew - Replica

This is the third repair using the iSclack it didn't have enough force to lift the face. I used the flat tool to help separate it. Thanks to those who warned against this tool due to pulling the glass face loose. I didn't think of that.

ldavis - Replica

Mentre reggi saldamente il tuo iPhone, chiudi le maniglie dell'iSclack per separare le ventose, tirando verso l'alto il pannello anteriore rispetto al case posteriore. L'iSclack è progettato per aprire in sicurezza il tuo iPhone in misura sufficiente a separare le parti, ma non abbastanza da poter danneggiare i cavi del display.
  • Mentre reggi saldamente il tuo iPhone, chiudi le maniglie dell'iSclack per separare le ventose, tirando verso l'alto il pannello anteriore rispetto al case posteriore.

  • L'iSclack è progettato per aprire in sicurezza il tuo iPhone in misura sufficiente a separare le parti, ma non abbastanza da poter danneggiare i cavi del display.

  • Stacca le due ventose dall'iPhone.

  • Salta i prossimi tre passi e continua con il passo 9.

Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair(place zip-tie around home button area and hold in place while using the tool). Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

Bryan Solo - Replica

The iSclack tool is a no brainer. I simply cleaned both areas were the suction cup secured to and pushed the ends of the iSclack together. Could not have been easier! The use of a zip tie did interest me, but I went the easiest way for no mistakes (iSclack). Be sure to hold the top of the phone securely, when open the bottom, which ever options you choose.

iScott - Replica

This worked for me. Unfortunately I managed to pinch the fleshy bit of my index finger when closing shut the handles….ouch! So just be a bit careful!

debsmcd6 - Replica

Se non hai un iSclack, usa una singola ventosa per sollevare il pannello frontale:
  • Se non hai un iSclack, usa una singola ventosa per sollevare il pannello frontale:

  • Premi la ventosa contro lo schermo, giusto sopra il pulsante Home.

  • Accertati che la ventosa sia disposta interamente sullo schermo per avere una presa salda.

My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

cpwittenberg - Replica

Use a Stanley knife to push in between the back housing and the frame in the bottom left and corner and gently leaver up.

Much easier Than using suction cup but may slight scratch the frame or housing.

Craig Matthews -

I suspect that the age of the phone and accident that caused cracks make this method possible for some people. My mom's phone was only a month or so old and the suction cup only caused the screen to raise slightly. There was certainly no crack I could squeeze a spudger into. I just superglued the suction cup onto the screen in the end, which was very effective.

Caroline Russell -

Removed board. I ended up with a small shiny metal plate. Shown clearly in the above last posted photos just under the power button switch. Where does this goes?

Malcolm - Replica

I was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure out where this goes?

paul -

This has probably been replied to, but see step 31 :) Should be re installed with the pokey out bits pointing down.

daveoline -

Can someone please help me. I went through all of the steps and now my phone screen is all white and I can't see anything.

Lukeapple1414 - Replica

First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

iGuys -

My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

Nathan - Replica

@malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

hari - Replica

In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

Robert Colvin - Replica

The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

johnsonjohnr - Replica

Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

daveoline -

I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

matttaylor - Replica

If other people have this issue, I would try supergluing a screen protector over the old screen - leave a wide margin around the edges, home key, ear speaker. You could even just cut a piece of the protector into a square, or get a rectangle of shipping tape, the glued down portion needn't cover the whole screen. Then, glue the suction cup on top of the glued down screen protector or tape. I suggest this over the utility knife because it seems like the knife method would at the very least scratch up and nick the frame.

Caroline Russell -

i did this now i'm having a hard time putting the metal bracket back on :(

sineglabs - Replica

1) Set suction cup off-center & pry up a corner instead of trying to yank open the whole thing. Wrap fingers around the entire phone while pulling so you don't inadvertently pull the display too far off.

2) Use a spudger, credit card, or guitar pick to pry it up once you have enough room to do so - don't pull any more than necessary.

3) There's a thin rubber edge around the entire display that might separate & stick to the bottom section. It should stay with the phone.

4) Reassembly: There are small plastic tabs on the top edge that you need to properly reseat in order to fully close the phone.

seijihuzz01 - Replica

We got this to work. Some patience required, but absolutely doable. Our new iFixit suction cup did nothing, but a random one around the house worked fine. Just be patient and work it gently up, this use an opening tool or exacto blade to get into the seem once it comes up. Really quite doable. I'm glad I didn't spend 25 bucks on the fancy tool (a must for repeat use, I'm sure). But don't be deterred by the negatives above. Just go slow.

Chris Twomey - Replica

I.did not read all the comments so I hope this isn’t redundant but my screen was too damaged to provide the air tonight seal that any suction device would need. The ifixit #3 flat head prayed the top out very easily. YMMV but I wouldn’t even try any other method before attempting to push the flat head down between the case and the glass. I thought it might bend the case out just a little causing a slight cosmetic damage but I have a rotective case that covers that anyway so who cares. Incidentally the case protected it from a lot of falls but not from gettin run over by my truck. A Prius once, but not the truck

Bill Pennock - Replica

Oh and if you think this step is hard wait till you get to the screws on the home key or sliding the bracket back over the Touch ID cable connector. That is where the real problems are

Bill Pennock - Replica

Single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

Bryan Solo - Replica

I concur with Bryan’s post. The suction cup that was included with the toolkit that came with my battery wouldn’t hold to the screen when I pulled on it (the rubber was pretty soft, and the surface not smooth - not at all like the suction cup shown in the pictures of this guide). Fortunately I have a suction cup with a hook used typically for hanging things on the wall of a shower that held on quite tight that did the job - in fact, I had to use the point of the spudger to get under the edge of the suction cup to get it to release. I also used the zip tie trick someone else posted for making sure the screen didn’t open too far before disconnecting the home button cable, but it wasn’t necessary - I got the screen lifted with enough control that the cable was never in danger.

stuart40plus - Replica

Suction cup supplied by ifixit worked for me. Of course I used all the tricks mentioned previously: Zip ties, work on one corner at a time, and work slowly - don’t expect it to pop out easily/quickly.

Don Libes - Replica

Getting cocky after replacing a display screen and battery in a 6S i-Phone, I decided to open up my own -Phone SE and replace the old battery with a new one. I used one of the flip lever suction cup devices and it worked so well, that the display screen popped open so far that the Home Button Cable was torn off from the Home Button Assembly. I followed the instructions for re-assembly, but the damage was done. Lesson learned…read the Repair Guide before starting a repair!

Peter Bovey - Replica

Suction cup for itself did not work for me. Then, I used a double face tape on it, and it worked nice (don’t try to remove the suction cup until you have fully unplugged the screen though). The suction cup should be used only to make a little gap for the other tools (spudger and that one which is blue). Sorry for the all caps, but ‘PULL THE SCREEN VERY SLOWLY’ (many people here commented there was a failure in this spet even being cautious).

Andre Silva - Replica

Il pannello frontale é attaccato con delle clip, e ci sono diversi cavi a nastro che lo connettono al resto del telefono. Qui l'obiettivo è quello di staccare le clip e aprire il telefono quanto basta per staccare i cavi. Procedi lentamente e con cautela per evitare danni.
  • Il pannello frontale é attaccato con delle clip, e ci sono diversi cavi a nastro che lo connettono al resto del telefono. Qui l'obiettivo è quello di staccare le clip e aprire il telefono quanto basta per staccare i cavi. Procedi lentamente e con cautela per evitare danni.

  • Assicurati che la ventosa sia ben attaccata al al gruppo del pannello frontale vicino al pulsante home.

  • Mentre tieni fermo l'iPhone con una mano, tira la ventosa per separare lievemente il gruppo del pannello frontale dal case posteriore.

  • Con uno strumento di apertura in plastica, forza delicatamente verso il basso i bordi del case posteriore, allontanandoli dal gruppo display, mentre continui a tirare con la ventosa.

  • Prenditi tutto il tempo che ti serve e applica una forza decisa e costante. Il gruppo display è molto più a filo di quanto accade con la maggior parte dei dispositivi.

Seriously consider the isclack. I have a lot of experience working with much more valuable equipment than a phone, and I had read all the precautions... but I broke the cable anyways. The isclack is specifically designed to open the phone but only wide enough to get the clips out, while saving your home button cable.

llcoreyll - Replica

Agreed. The suction cup method shouldn't be mentioned. I'm also extremely delicate with electronics and gently opening the display with a single suction cup is essentially impossible. The spudger needs to do all the work.

idmadj -

Agreed, I really wish I had paid extra to buy the isclack. Didn’t because I thought that I could be careful—that iFixIt provided just the suction and it would take a few days to get the extra tool. Take the time. Its not worth it.

Thought I was extremely careful—absolutely no movement or pull. Then pop. Pulled home button cord right out of its socket. Buying a new phone later today. The extra few days and additional cash would have totally been worth it.

Timothy Fry -

It may help to position the suction cup off-center and pull up one corner first.

Rosemary McNaughton - Replica

Yes, I had problems initially (with the suction cup placed just above the home button) but placing it in the left corner did the trick.

Brian Riess -

Avoid spudgers, guitar picks, and other weird inventions, just use your fingernails. That way you can feel what's happening, and you won't accidentally slide them in and break something. They won't break the plastic rim thingy either, in contrast with spudgers. That's what fingernails evolved to do, so just use them.

Konrad Tlatlik - Replica

Lol. Evolved fingernails to open phones.

Chal Miller -

Wrap a zip-tie loosely around the phone to avoid pulling the cover too far off and breaking the ribbon cable.

Thor Lancaster - Replica

Thank you for the zip tie suggestion!

W Fleming -

Zip tie is a brilliant suggestion. Very robust and safe way to pull the phone apart--I had mine wrapped just above the home button and kept the case from opening beyond about 1/8 of an inch.

bartonh - Replica

Used the suction cup and only my screen came up. Looks as though the screen delaminated from its black aluminum mounting tray. The home button stayed with the tray as well. Any ideas?

Kyle Rogers - Replica

I got the battery and fitting kit from ifixit. the blue plastic levers that were included were not up to the job as the blade just bent when any pressure was applied. carefully using my own screwdrivers completed the task.

adrt - Replica

We disagree with the naysayers. Patient use of the suction cup worked for us. The iFixit one didn't do it (it looked a bit deformed out of the box. But a random kids toy worked fine. Nothing fancy. Don't rush. Use an exacto as it starts to come up to slide in to the crevice. After that, works pretty well.

Chris Twomey - Replica

The Jimmy tool worked for me. Managed to slide it in and twist slightly to pop the screen off without too much force.

leeprobert - Replica

ifixit's sucktion cup and blue opening tool worked very well for me. I used the suction cup just enough to get the opening tool into a gap and gently pry out the clips. I'm glad that the display didn't give way too easily otherwise I might have damaged a cable. I wish I had read the zip tie comment first though.

Scott Watson - Replica

ifixit's suction cup and blue opening tool worked well for me. Like the zip tie suggestion as a precaution.

Erik Osborn - Replica

during reassembly, screen cracked worse than screen i was replacing!!

Valerie Egan - Replica

Yup - I did the same thing… The top corner of the encasement was slightly bent from when I had dropped the phone and where the screen cracked originally. I didn’t notice it right away and when I went to “snap” the screen back down into place during reassembly, it wasn’t quite a perfect fit, and when I tried to press it into place, I cracked the new screen. Note to self - “check for small dents in the encasement and try to fix before trying to tighten down the screen”. The new cracked screen is still better than the one that I was replacing. I feel so dumb. Chalk it up to a rookie mistake I guess. Hopefully this little write up saves someone else from making the same mistake.

Christopher Flynn -

I also broke the screen (after replacing the battery). When closing up the screen, insert the top of the screen first, then lay the phone face down on a flat surface and apply pressure from the back of the phone. It worked for me…

stopsurfing - Replica

This is a great idea! Works for me too!

JC Alice -

This comment definitely should be in the guide!! It is an awesome hint.

Andre Silva -

Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair. Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

Bryan Solo - Replica

Use some tape to limit how far the screen will open. I used wide packing tape, stuck it to the bottom of the display, where the home button is, and to the opposite side, on the back. It left a loop of tape, front to back, around the bottom of the phone, that had about an inch of slack. This allowed the display to pop off completely without any danger to the home button cable. No prying required.

Michal Pawlowski - Replica

YES! I was just about to suggest this as I tore the home cable even though I was really careful opening it.

Arthur Shi -

What worked extremely easy for me was I used a utility knife to score on the joint below the home button. The blade went in easy then lightly pried the screen up then followed up the rest of the way with the ifixit opening tool. I’m sure the ifixit Jimmy tool would work as well, instead of the utility knife.

Scott Nacke - Replica

I wish I’d looked at the comments here before I tore the home button cable. I was trying to be careful and not to rip it but it just got away from me. Now I’ve ordered the replacement part…

Graham Agnew - Replica

The glass of my screen went off at first and there was also a black plastic frame that I managed to peel off as well.

At first I didn’t notice that the metal bracket didn’t come off. It was a bit of a struggle to lift the metal bracket.

Wolfgang Bauer - Replica

Wish I’d read through these first.

Used the suction cup but went too far when the display finally popped loose pulling the home button cable off the main board. Hope it was only the cable that was damaged - will try a replacement home button.

Limiting the display’s travel with tape or a zip tie is an excellent idea !!!

Leonard - Replica

I used the suction cup, but used a long screwdriver through the pull-ring help up with books either side piled to just lift the phone of the worksurface when I started to apple downward force on the phone. Meant that I could be more confident applying force as, if it did go suddenly, the phone would only travel the distance down to the surface. Had to add a few books as I hadn’t allowed for them compressing as I applied force.

Peter Whitworth - Replica

We used the little suction cup the Ifixit supplies in the repair kit, NOT the iSclack. It took many attempts, patience, and two people working together, but ultimately we succeeded. Here are a few tips: soak the suction cup in very hot (just boiled) water for 5-10 minutes to get it really warm and pliable. As one person holds the phone and pulls up on the suction cup, the other should work the blue opening tool at the first sign of the display assembly starting to lift from the phone. Many times the suction cup would pop off but we kept heating the cup, resticking, and working it until we finally opened it. We used the cable tie suggestion above as well to be sure the phone would not open too far and this saved us when it finally popped free. Remember to work the clips on the side as well once you have a gap. Honestly, this took the most patience of all 62 steps! (Yes, there are 62 steps…only 54 more to go!)

James M. Day - Replica

Non provare a rimuovere completamente il pannello dal case posteriore poiché ci sono ancora alcuni cavi a nastro tra le due parti. Tira la linguetta di plastica per staccare la ventosa.
  • Non provare a rimuovere completamente il pannello dal case posteriore poiché ci sono ancora alcuni cavi a nastro tra le due parti.

  • Tira la linguetta di plastica per staccare la ventosa.

  • Rimuovi la ventosa dallo schermo.

Cracked my screen using the supplied suction cup. Had to apply clear packing tape to screen to very patiently finish the job. However, now I need a new screen. How nice :-(

Scott Stathis - Replica

I added a double face tape in the suction cup to make it work, and then, I did not try to remove it until I had unplugged the screen. It was inconvenient not being able to work with the screen in a horizontal position when removing the ‘home button’ but it wasn’t also the end of the world.

Andre Silva - Replica

Apri il telefono quanto basta per scoprire la staffa di metallo che copre il cavo del pulsante home. Non aprire troppo il telefono o rischierai di danneggiare il pulsante o la basetta a cui è attaccato. Mantieni il cavo molle: se è teso, allora il telefono è troppo aperto. Solo il pulsante home originale permette di usare la funzione di riconoscimento Touch ID. Se si strappa il cavo, rimpiazzare il pulsante non farà che garantirne le funzioni di base, non il Touch ID.
  • Apri il telefono quanto basta per scoprire la staffa di metallo che copre il cavo del pulsante home.

  • Non aprire troppo il telefono o rischierai di danneggiare il pulsante o la basetta a cui è attaccato. Mantieni il cavo molle: se è teso, allora il telefono è troppo aperto.

    • Solo il pulsante home originale permette di usare la funzione di riconoscimento Touch ID. Se si strappa il cavo, rimpiazzare il pulsante non farà che garantirne le funzioni di base, non il Touch ID.

  • Usa la punta di uno spudger per liberare la staffa di metallo e rimuovila con le pinzette.

  • I prossimi due passi riguardano il rimontaggio. Saltali e continua con il passo 12 se non sei in fase di rimontaggio.

I had put some what more pressure to suck and sensor cable got detached from upper part(display) , now what shall i do , how to fix it ?

Nikunj - Replica

Is the touch ID bracket really important or have any use ? I forgot to put it back… Is it going to malfunction ?

John Doe - Replica

mine did not appear to have a bracket.. I am wondering too if this is going to mess with it?

Donna Godfrey -

It's there to keep it firmly in place.

Didier Daniel -

My bracket popped out when I opened the screen too far, so if you can’t see the bracket, look around inside your phone. it might be hiding out.

lucy -

Mine also doesn't seem to have a bracket. Plus the cable unclipped itself when the screen shot free - yikes. Looks OK though. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

Gabe - Replica

I wrapped a velcro tie loosely around the phone so it wouldn't open up too far. (or could use a zip tie) Then while holding the screen down with one hand, I pulled the suction cup up with the other hand, using gradual pressure. while using a "wiggeling" upward pressure, I concentrated on raising the left side of the screen, which gradually started to loosen up. then I concentrated on the lower left corner until I had enough of a gap to work in the the flat surface of the plastic tool. I then pried on this corner. The screen then popped up without stressing the home button cable.

Harry

Harry Jones - Replica

Genius. Pure genius.

Aiden Baker -

I found that when replacing the plate/cover, a pair of needle nosed tweezers held the plate by the 2 holes rather than by the edges (it jumped out repeatedly). I have taken a picture but need to upload it if its required? I also found that taking the new battery out of it's wrapper once out the box has to be done very carefully as the ribbon cable caught on the wrapper so be warned...

andy - Replica

DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

Max Powers - Replica

You say you have to use the original home button. But what is the button "bound" to? The motherboard?

Iver søbakk - Replica

Yep. Bound to the phone CPU.

Michael Walker -

When I lifted my screen during this step, the metal LCD shield plate did not come out with the screen. Very confusing. I needed to carefully pry around the shield plate's side notches, just inside the walls of the iPhone's back, in order to lift it out. Required a trifle bit more force than I anticipated.

Zac Imboden - Replica

I’m already limited to using a touch screen home button. (physical home button stopped responding but fingerprint works) Would this take away that functionality of my on screen home button? does this affect the fingerprint security feature?

Kris704 - Replica

I used the 5S battery kit that iFixit shipped me and attached the suction cup to the screen and gently started pulling to lift the screen. It lifted revealing a very slight crack and I used the spudger tool with the suction cup still lifting away gently and it opened more. At no point did I see any home button cable???

When the screen came off more I continued to follow all the other instructions and have got to step 23 … I see no battery adhesive tab???

Just loads of black electrical tape blending in with the battery seal. So now I have no clue how to complete taking the battery out?

Completely bummed at this point….

Alun Williams - Replica

Sounds like you’ve got an iPhone 5. This guide is for the 5s. ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

Be forewarned: make sure you really really want that new battery or display replacement, because you are VERY likely to lose your Touch ID feature on your phone after taking this step. It is extremely sensitive. The front of the bracket is the point of tension that holds it in place. In my case, as I carefully used the spudger to release the bracket, the released tension shot the bracket out of the phone and the Touch ID cable popped out of its socket with it. This gave me a start but I inspected both parts and they appeared to be fine. I finished the battery replacement, and put the cable back in place only to discover: no Touch ID. Even after I re-opened the phone two more times and finally figured out how to properly reseat the bracket, Touch ID was gone. Judging by this experience the Touch ID cable/pins must be insanely sensitive – perhaps one pin was dislodged by a fraction of a millimeter? I can’t say for sure. But sadly after repeated and careful attempts to reseat it, my Touch ID is lost for good. :(

N B - Replica

Same here. I thought I was being very careful but ended up damaging something even though everything looked fine. No more TouchID for this old iPhone 5S…

Michael Walker -

There’s an easy solution to this step: use hemostats (miniature vice grip). Took me about 10 seconds (after over an hour using various other tools).

Robert Smith - Replica

Attention in this part!! I had to put more pressure than I should, then the bracket flew away and the cable also unplugged all together (probably placed the spudger beneath the cable instead of only beneath the bracket). I was lucky nothing bad happened, but I lost total control in this step (it was my only mistake).

Andre Silva - Replica

Tape the screen to the case on the sides with some slack to keep the screen from opening too far.

Nace - Replica

Nel corso del rimontaggio, dovrai reinstallare la staffa del cavo del Touch ID. La parte superiore della staffa deve scorrere tra la batteria e il connettore del cavo dell Touch ID e la parte frontale deve richiudersi sopra il connettore. Fai scorrere la parte superiore della staffa sopra il connettore del cavo del Touch ID da sinistra verso destra.
  • Nel corso del rimontaggio, dovrai reinstallare la staffa del cavo del Touch ID. La parte superiore della staffa deve scorrere tra la batteria e il connettore del cavo dell Touch ID e la parte frontale deve richiudersi sopra il connettore.

  • Fai scorrere la parte superiore della staffa sopra il connettore del cavo del Touch ID da sinistra verso destra.

This is the hardest part lol

Bob smith - Replica

I concur! I think I need thinner tweezers.

FierDancr -

1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone. Mine didn't "latch down" or stay in place - it just sort of sat there.

2) Note that the rest of the bracket this attaches to must be removed from the Lightning Connector assembly & reattached to the new one.

3) I combined this repair w/replacing the battery, and smashed the bottom of the bracket under the battery/adhesive strips. Careful not to do that, so that you can actually complete this step.

seijihuzz01 - Replica

Comment above was made on the Lightning Connector replacement guide - I guess it got pulled over here since as well since the steps are identical ... Anyway careful not to smash the bottom bracket w/the replacement battery or adhesive

seijihuzz01 - Replica

That was fun without tweezers :)

Oscar - Replica

Even with tweezers (the eyebrow kind) it was still an exercise in extreme calming techniques. I nearly gave up, but after 20 minutes I finally got it to seat and clamp.

natzulf -

It is fiddly and access is tight as all the connectors are in place. However, if you approach at the correct angle so that you are looking to latch the connector next to the battery first... Once this is in place and secure then gently push down the front of the bracket over the cable.

copeconsultancy - Replica

I think it's the pics and the word 'slide' that throws people off. I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place. Still the guide had this down for me in 30 minutes even with the 'hardest part' haha and the part from ifixit worked and looked perfect.

Brent Hillyer - Replica

After reading the comments I was not looking forward to this step on re-assembly. I agree that the pictures and the instruction to “slide” the bracket into place may be worrisome. But I was able to orient the bracket directly over where it was supposed to go. Then inserted the 2 clips (top) in first and easily and gently snapped the bottom clip into place. Probably spent less than a minute on this part.

Jere -

After about 20 minutes I wonder if I could just snap it in place. I did it in about 15 seconds.

The “slide part and accompanying images are really misleading.

jpfranc -

It took me 10 minutes to accomplish this step; 9’:55’’ I spent reading the comments and 0:05’’ plugging the bracket the way you describe. This step step should be edited in this guide. It is definitely misleading people.

Andre Silva -

DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

Max Powers - Replica

Not everyone should ditch the bracket just because you did. The bracket is there to keep everything firmly in place.

Didier Daniel -

I did finally leave it off. I’m sure if I worked for Foxconn I could snap those on in seconds flat. After 30minutes of trying I figured it would either work or I’d have to spring fo a new phone. It just wasn’t gonna happen for me. Right now it’s working so it’s all about reliability now

Bill Pennock -

I'm not so patient, so I finally gave up and ditched the bracket. No problem so far. Anyway, ditch it at your own risk!

Daniel del Saz -

On an old 5S, the metal retainer bracket snapped in easily. There was no sliding, the rear edge dropped in straight, it hinged down, and locked almost before I knew it. The lack of a click or any positive feel on this critical connector surprised me a lot. I had to eyeball it with a magnifier to feel sure the ribbon connector was really in its socket. Works perfectly after the replacement, though.

Jeff Clayton - Replica

All this time I was trying to put the bracket right next to the battery but that's not right. There's no way the bumps on the metal connector can fit in the slots on the bracket. It's battery, metal connector and then the bracket. So easy. Next time I dismantle an iPhone 5S I won't be dreading this step.

Kim Mace - Replica

I should NOT have had that cup of coffee before I attempted this!

Cory Powell - Replica

This was definitely the fiddliest bit of the whole reassembly.

After trying the slide in and then press method many times without success I ended up feeding it in directly with the tweezers, carefully angling it back up into position, then clipping it down. But the whole thing took at least 5 minutes. And my shaky hands didn’t help matters!

Toby Moncaster - Replica

I was sweting gallons during this step!

Timothy Owens - Replica

The replacement of the bracket was tricky. The bracket has to be put in under the two tiny tabs in the back (next to the battery) and then pushing down in the front. I knew I had it when I heard a little click from the one tab in the front seating.

Ron Wagner - Replica

HI Ron, you are almost right. Or at least I did clip in the front part first and then just push the back while the back side was in between the home button connector and that two pins (the bracket on the “board”). As you said it just click in and you could hear. That was after I tried put the back first and then clip the front for 15 min.

Martin Chudomel -

This step needs to be explained better! The metal bracket needs to be slid in front of the metal connector near the battery and then clicked down. I've been stuck on this step as I kept trying to slide it between the metal connector and battery!!

Whitney Hourigan - Replica

Updated the text a bit, while correct, it didn’t mention the metal tab in relation to the battery and cable connector. Hope this helps the next person!

Sam Lionheart -

And for this step felt like a life long career of tiddly winks had commenced

Jake Baxter - Replica

It is confusing in reassembly, that the steps 10 and 11 are in the ascending order, because we follow the guide backwards (I suggest explaining the correct sequence: …, 12, 10, 11, and ??. ?? —> This is another point of confusion, the next step is to fit the screen back in, but because there are many (alternative) steps to open the phone, all the useful comments about closing it are spread among topics 3 to 9. There should have been a box (step) exclusively to the part of fitting the screen , so the explanation is more clear and comments are put all together. There are extremely useful comments here that should be edited in the guide (to make it even better).

Andre Silva - Replica

Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per appiattire sopra il connettore del cavo la parte anteriore della staffa del cavo del Touch ID. Se la staffa non si dispone a filo, potrebbe essere necessario rimuovere la staffa e farla scorrere di nuovo al di sopra del connettore del cavo per un miglior posizionamento.
  • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per appiattire sopra il connettore del cavo la parte anteriore della staffa del cavo del Touch ID.

  • Se la staffa non si dispone a filo, potrebbe essere necessario rimuovere la staffa e farla scorrere di nuovo al di sopra del connettore del cavo per un miglior posizionamento.

It seems like a couple of these steps are reassembly steps? I wish they would label them as such. This step and step 10 are for reassembly, and it's confusing.

Sheldon Carpenter - Replica

See the information line on Step 9 that says this exact thing?

Elliot Fleming - Replica

Usa la punta di uno spudger per staccare dal suo zoccolo il connettore del cavo del pulsante Home. Assicurati di stare separando il connettore del cavo dallo zoccolo e di non stare forzando sullo zoccolo stesso. Quest'ultimo si trova su un proprio cavo incollato che può staccarsi se non fai abbastanza attenzione.
  • Usa la punta di uno spudger per staccare dal suo zoccolo il connettore del cavo del pulsante Home.

  • Assicurati di stare separando il connettore del cavo dallo zoccolo e di non stare forzando sullo zoccolo stesso. Quest'ultimo si trova su un proprio cavo incollato che può staccarsi se non fai abbastanza attenzione.

Upon reassembly, I found this easier once I was looking at the connection from the bottom of the phone, as pictured. I had been trying to line up the connector from the side. Once I put on magnifying glasses and had really good light, I lined it up and slipped my finger in for the click.

Oh, in a moment of relief after getting the cable connected, I quickly closed up the phone, forgetting to put the metal bracket covering the home button cable back on. I had to re-open the case. Don't be like me!

Keystone - Replica

Reassembly:

The original part bends the bottom home button connector back on itself into a bracket you have to remove (not mentioned in later steps).

That bracket has a bit of adhesive to keep the bottom connector in place.

The replacement part does not come with a bracket, or additional adhesive, so the bottom connector flops around & can make reassembly a challenge. I found it was best to hold right edge of the bottom in place w/1 finger, and use a 2nd finger to slide the upper cable connector left to right and click it into place.

seijihuzz01 - Replica

Also worth mentioning is that upon reassembly, make sure that the home button cable folds to the left (away from the side with the SIM card) as the front panel will not fit properly otherwise.

Brian Riess - Replica

这个地方必须小心,我上次就把底部接口搞坏了,害我换个电池的同时还换了一个尾插

Zhou Lin - Replica

Una volta che il connettore è stato liberato, solleva dal case posteriore il gruppo dal lato del pulsante home, usando la parte superiore del telefono come una cerniera. Apri il display a un angolo di circa 90° e posalo contro qualcosa che lo tenga aperto mentre tu stai lavorando sul telefono. Aggiungi un elastico per tenere il display al suo posto mentre lavori. In questo modo si eviteranno sforzi imprevisti sui cavi del display.
  • Una volta che il connettore è stato liberato, solleva dal case posteriore il gruppo dal lato del pulsante home, usando la parte superiore del telefono come una cerniera.

  • Apri il display a un angolo di circa 90° e posalo contro qualcosa che lo tenga aperto mentre tu stai lavorando sul telefono.

  • Aggiungi un elastico per tenere il display al suo posto mentre lavori. In questo modo si eviteranno sforzi imprevisti sui cavi del display.

  • In caso di emergenza, una lattina ancora chiusa può essere una buona soluzione per questo scopo.

maak een constructie waar de iPhone in valt en waarbij het scherm in een hoek van 90 graden kan worden gefixeerd, dan hoef je drie kabeltjes niet los te maken. Is mij heel goed gelukt .

Joop Roos - Replica

Out of curiosity I decided to use google translate…here it is in English. “make a construction where the iPhone falls and the screen can be fixed at a 90 degree angle, you do not have to unlock three cables. I did very well.”

Kelly Ann - Replica

Rimuovi le due viti Phillips #000 da 1,6 mm  che fissano sulla scheda logica la staffa metallica del connettore della batteria.
  • Rimuovi le due viti Phillips #000 da 1,6 mm che fissano sulla scheda logica la staffa metallica del connettore della batteria.

I don't see why steps 14, 15, and 16 are even necessary. I was able to remove the scene without removing the battery (skipping these 3 steps)

Luke Lin - Replica

See Jonathan Goldsmith's comment ;)

Didier Daniel -

Working on the phone without removing the battery will most likely damage the component. My OnePlus One runs extremely slow after working on it without removing the battery. I think it's a problem with the GPU, because the display was very slow to update the screen contents.

Peter Pan - Replica

Pan is right. Not removing the battery means you will run the risk of shorting some circuits not meant to be connected, and thus can damage those components. This can happen very easily, and without you even knowing it. Additionally, the internal components of a digital device are not meant to be disconnected while having any amount of power applied(and even though your device may not even turn on because the battery is completely shot, there very likely will still be a small amount of power coming from the battery to the internal components of the device). Doing so will likely cause an overcurrent condition that will damage the components of the device.

Jonathan Goldsmith - Replica

Now my problem, however, is that the screws on this bracket do not seem to want to unscrew. :(

Jonathan Goldsmith - Replica

Okay, the problem would seem to have been with the screwdriver that came with my iFixit battery "Fix kit". Tried another screwdriver, and no problems at all.

Jonathan Goldsmith - Replica

Phillips #000 provided with the iFixit repair kit does not fit the screws

Vitaly Kirichenko - Replica

I agree the #000 Phillips driver didn't work. I happened to already have a #0 Phillips that did work much better.

Bruce Peffley -

Same problem here

Mikkel Albrechtsen -

The screwdriver that came with the kit worked fine for me when I applied pressure with my palm to the end of the driver and turned the driver with my forefinger and thumb

Tom Gleason - Replica

The ifixit #000 works…if you put an uncomfortable amount of pressure on the driver. Yikes. Use a larger bit if you’ve got it.

Chris Wiley - Replica

i damaged the bottom screw with the phillips00 ifixit screwdriver :-(

Pierre - Replica

Rimuovi dall'iPhone la staffa metallica del connettore della batteria.
  • Rimuovi dall'iPhone la staffa metallica del connettore della batteria.

Not clear to me why this and the next step are necessary for a screen replacement...

Daniel Goldschmidt - Replica

Using the iFixit tweezers to remove the bracket caused a spark. I used the plastic spudger instead.

Bryan Remely - Replica

Is this tutorial or the iPhone SE? The battery should be 1624mAh but these pictures go back and forth between showing 1510and 1560mAh. Why are pictures showing different batteries, and why isn't it showig the 1624mAh for the 5 SE?

Someone Somewhere - Replica

After installing the New iPhone 5s Lightning Connector Replacement I noticed there was no foam on top of the new plug, leaving bare metal exposed. I cut a small piece of electricians tape to be placed on top of the new plug to keep it from coming in contact with the metal battery connector bracket

Scott Nacke - Replica

Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare delicatamente il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Stai molto attento a far leva solo sul connettore della batteria e non sullo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Forzando sullo zoccolo, potresti rompere l'intero connettore.
  • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare delicatamente il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

  • Stai molto attento a far leva solo sul connettore della batteria e non sullo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Forzando sullo zoccolo, potresti rompere l'intero connettore.

pourquoi faire?

Alexis Camper - Replica

Skip steps17-22. Just be extra careful and secure the screen. Less to go wrong the less you open.

William Stein - Replica

Also order the headband magnifier. It really helps with the tiny components you are working with.

William Stein - Replica

A way to skip step 17-22

I unfolded as next step the display in a perpendicular way (so display unit and rest of the device in 90°) and fixed the display with an elastic band at an opened iPhone packaging box. Then I continued directly at step 23 with the removal of the battery without removing the display unit at all. Worked very well without any problems… and now I’m curious whether the new battery really powers the device for a longer time :-)

Rolf Enderes - Replica

I also skipped the step of removing the dispaly, instead using a rubber band to secure the display to the iPhone box. Worked great, and avoided the hassle of disconnecting the display.

Daniel Melchior - Replica

I skipped this step and I also removed my display. I don’t know what will happen in the future but there’s no problems till now...

Ran Mika (Tshukimi Elune) - Replica

I didn’t realize that each of the photos contained different steps until later on, (the photos look very similar to each other in the thumbnails), and so I don’t think I removed the 2nd part of the battery attachment as its in the 2nd photo. I figured it out later, but only after step 20, which requires that the battery is fully disconnected before doing. Oops!

Everything else went well though, and I’ve since reinstalled the battery, drained it, and recharged, and it seems to be fine. Will cross my fingers and hope I didn’t damage anything.

Nancy Zan - Replica

If you do remove the display, it is helpful before removing the four diffferently sized screws to tape down a piece of masking tape, sticky side up, and remove them in a defined order, sticking them to the tape as you go. Then there’s no chance of mixing them up when you re-assemble.

john lawn - Replica

Rimuovi le seguenti viti che fissano il cavo del gruppo del pannello frontale alla scheda logica.
  • Rimuovi le seguenti viti che fissano il cavo del gruppo del pannello frontale alla scheda logica.

    • Due viti a croce Phillips #000 da 1,7 mm

    • Una vite a croce Phillips #000 da 1,2 mm

    • Una vite a croce Phillips #000 da 1,3 mm

    • Un'altra vite a croce Phillips #000 da 1,7 mm

      • Questa ultima vite da 1,7 mm tende a non farsi attrarre da cacciaviti magnetici. Fai attenzione a non perderla durante la rimozione.

    • È particolarmente importante tenere nota della posizione delle viti per il successivo rimontaggio. Usare erroneamente la vite da 1,3 mm oppure una di quelle da 1,7 mm nel foro inferiore destro potrebbe danneggiare seriamente la scheda logica e impedire quindi al telefono di avviarsi correttamente.

    • Attenti a non serrare troppo forte le viti. Se non entrano facilmente mentre le stai avvitando, potrebbero essere della misura sbagliata, quindi non forzarle.

Two screws at the bottom should be the most short, two screws on top are the longest, you got it wrong.Please official verification again, and reply to me. Thank you!

CLAUDE - Replica

Hi Claude,

Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

So, I was wondering:

1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

Thanks in advance.

Regards,

Cornel.

corneliumusat -

Can anyone answer if the blue strips on the crews indicate which screws they are? They are all so small it's hard to find the right lengths for each hole

Ariel Drotter -

Does anyone know if the blue strips on the screws indicate their length? I'm finding it very hard to distinguish the lengths

Ariel Drotter -

@Ariel - The blue that you are seeing on the screws is simply leftover loctite compound that is used to prevent the screws from working their way loose during every day use and does not give any indication as to the length of the screw. You should notice that, generally, you have two lengths of screws out of the 4 that came out...2 with longer threads and two with shorter threads. The two with shorter threads need to go in the bottom two holes...these two screws are not exactly the same length (difference of 0.1 mm), but mixing them up should not cause any harm to the phone due to such a small difference. With the two longer ones that are leftover, only one of them will be magnetically attracted to your screwdriver...this is the one that goes in the top left hole. The one that does not easily attract to your screwdriver goes in the top right.

iGuys -

Hi Everyone,

Claude is right, after re-arranging the screws so that the top two are the longest, bottom-right shortest and bottom left is the second-shortest the in-call audio came back with Bluetooth calls.

The same was found and posted by Pete on the Apple Support Communities forums and, as mentioned, I can also confirm that this fix works.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Cornel.

corneliumusat - Replica

The magnetic mat its priceless I found. As I removed screws, I placed on magnetic mat and labeled right away. Reassembly time was a breeze.

RayBob - Replica

Upside-down masking tape also works well, especially when labelled with corresponding step for each bit of parts!

W Fleming -

i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

William Boggs - Replica

The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

Please change all the versions including this step.

Louis Torres - Replica

I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

lambdahindiii - Replica

I completely agree with lambdahindiii, skip steps 11 - 16 completely. You do have to be careful not to flip open the display, but it's manageable with some care.

I will give disclaimer that I used 3.0x magnification with surgical loupes. Any kind of magnification will help. Also recommend using an LED head lamp for optimal illumination.

wmlee1 -

I'm going to upvote the suggestion to skip steps 11- 16 too.

Some things to look out for:

- Both the battery adhesive strips broke off for me so I had to pry the battery out. You do have to be careful as a good amount of pressure is needed to remove the battery that you don't twist the top display and break the connectors. It's just a trade-off of risks though - you won't have to worry about losing or inserting the wrong screws for the front panel connectors either.

- The metal connector over the touch ID button is hard to put back in. It looks like one piece on the video but it's a separate metal piece that goes over the connector.

- To open the case with the suction cup, I found it useful to place the cup more to one side, and lift that side up first and then work on the other side.

Take your time and good luck all

wilten -

I agree. The steps to remove the display are unnecessary. I skipped these and had no issues.

Matt Reier -

On my phone it actually seems like one of the 1.7mm screws is non-magnetic (the other 3 screws are magnetic). Although this could be a botched repair job from a previous owner...

I guess if it's intentional, it should be the top-right one, as that is closest to the compass IC.

woods81 - Replica

You're right. The top right screw must be non-ferrous stainless. I've repaired tons of the5-5s and that screw is never magnetic.

BJS -

You are absolutely correct — the upper right one is the non-ferrous / non-magnetic one. I’ve made corrections to this guide and the guide for the iPhone 5 but each time the edits have been denied, once by @Reed Danis and the previous by @Walter Galan. Not sure why they’re denied — it’s obvious which one doesn’t stick to a magnetic screwdriver. This mistake makes these guides quite unreliable and will screw (ha) with the compass.

Drtofu -

Apparently it is non magnetic so as not to interfere with the compass. The iPhone 6 has moved tis down to the bottom near the battery connector.

Jack -

I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link: http://www.irepairnational.com/iphone-5s...

shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

what is the correct way?

alexaamo91 - Replica

i had the 'blue screen of death' and here was my workaround:

Apple logo then blue screen

kgale4 -

I was wondering exactly the same thing why we need to un-screw the screen? Anyway place the screws in the order they come and you should find no problems putting them back in right order.

Also I found the screw driver comes with ifixit battery kit does not fit in the screws perfectly. Feeling a little large for these screws. Anyone else had the same experience?

fredhdx - Replica

The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

mnoivad - Replica

Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

Pete H - Replica

I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - https://youtu.be/k_OpjhKAUCM?t=180 . Can we buy it ?

Daylen - Replica

Putting the upper screws back in the bracket is a bit tricky--if you hold the screen at 90 degrees, the connector cables lift up the loose bracket, but if you lower the screen to allow the bracket to lay flat, you can't reach with a screw driver. Be very slow and patient and replace the upper left screw last (after the first three are tight)--these will hold down the bracket fairly well so you can aim the last (upper left) screw into the hole and push down as you tighten.

bartonh - Replica

That is exactly how I did it; good hint. Thanks.

Andre Silva -

So I managed to loose the top right (non magnetic) screw. I saw it fall to the table, but it's gone. Wonder if it fell back into the phone, as there is a slight rattle sound when I shake it. Will there be any big surprises if I just reassemble without that screw?

larserikkolden - Replica

If you keep the top steady these steps (17-22) could be skipped. That's how I did. Everything is ok.except screwdriver didn't undo upper one of the battery bracket I had to bend the bracket.

Mehmet Hakan - Replica

I noticed that reassembling my device, if the metal bracket touch the hole of the 1.3mm screw the touch stopped working. I had to put a little piece of plastic between the hole and the bracket unable to put the screw in (or it would make contact between the hole and the bracket).

Any suggestion?

denis.g.94 - Replica

Hi Denis, could you be a bit more specific as to which metal bracket you are referring to please? also, where did you put the piece of plastic? Thank you.

jamesmclachlan -

Denis, could you be more specific please? Which metal bracket causes the problem and where did you put the piece of plastic?

I have the same problem, (lost touch screen function).

jamesmclachlan -

Trying to get the screws into the holes and driving them in was extraordinarily challenging due in large part to their magnetic bond. Screws didn't want to leave the driver, once they were in they flew right back out as soon as the driver came within distance. To combat this, I suggest using a thin, clear tape (I used packing tape) cut into 4 strips and place each screw flat side down on one end of each strip of tape. Now you can easily maneuver and securely hold the screws into their holes as the driver pierces the tape easily screwing them in without losing them or your mind. Also, fridge magnets are good to retrieve screws that have fallen into iPhone's nooks and crannies, likewise from carpeting.

James Lee - Replica

After aligning the bracket over the screw holes, I used the tweezers to pick the screw on its head and position it in the hole. Then, it was not difficult to use the screwdriver to fasten it.

Andre Silva -

If I messed up the screw placement, can it be redone and fixed by putting the screws back in prober order?

Colm Noone - Replica

Like James Lee (above), I found reinserting the tiny screws quite difficult because the magnetic screwdriver would pull them out, with the screw adhering to the screwdriver at odd angles. What worked was to insert a screw with tweezers, then START the screw using the non-magnetic plastic pointy tool while holding down the plate so the screw could turn easily. Once the screw was started, I tightened it with the screwdriver.

Sandy Trevor - Replica

Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!..

yaterbob - Replica

The iFixit Kit I bought does NOT have the right screw driver to remove these screws. Neither phillips screwdrivers work - the point is much too sharp and does not grip the screw at all. Not happy with this purchase right now.

Richard - Replica

Color coding the screw heads is an excellent idea. I used red for red - green for green - and black for orange - left the yellow one uncolored. Did a screen capture and labeled it to avoid confusion.

Leonard - Replica

Also color a small area around the screws on the cable bracket. Makes it real easy to see which screw goes where.

Leonard -

I found out that you don’t need the 1.7mm screw. The shorter one will do and I don’t lose bluetooth.

patjmccarthy - Replica

I used colored sharpies to keep track of the screws. I color coded the screw heads and around their holes. Worked like a charm.

Brigham Okano - Replica

I managed to loose the socket of the green screw. Apparently, during my second disassembly of my iPhone the socket (which appears to be screwed in as well) came loose without me noticiing it and promptly vanished later on in the process, never to be seen again. The iPhone does seem to work without it, but still, I’d advise checking that they are still in place when you unmount the metal shield.

Sven Siggelkow - Replica

Rimuovi dalla scheda logica la staffa del cavo del gruppo del pannello frontale.
  • Rimuovi dalla scheda logica la staffa del cavo del gruppo del pannello frontale.

At my iPhone 5s this part is missing!

Michael Schöttner - Replica

Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare il cavo della fotocamera frontale e del sensore. Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare il cavo della fotocamera frontale e del sensore.
  • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare il cavo della fotocamera frontale e del sensore.

The flat end of the spudger works great to position and press down on the connectors during reassembly.

Magnus Dalen - Replica

I did not try the spudger (but I think I should have), because this cable was the most difficult to me. It kept flipping (not aligning with the socket) and with one hand holding the screen and the other trying to connect was very difficult .

Andre Silva -

Sempre tenendo il pannello frontale in verticale, stacca il connettore del cavo dell'LCD. Nel rimontare il telefono, il cavo LCD potrebbe sfilarsi dal connettore. Il risultato, quando riaccendi il telefono, sono linee vuote o una schermata vuota. Se questo accade, basta riconnettere il cavo e resettare il telefono. Il modo migliore di effettuare il reset è disconnettere e riconnettere la batteria.
  • Sempre tenendo il pannello frontale in verticale, stacca il connettore del cavo dell'LCD.

  • Nel rimontare il telefono, il cavo LCD potrebbe sfilarsi dal connettore. Il risultato, quando riaccendi il telefono, sono linee vuote o una schermata vuota. Se questo accade, basta riconnettere il cavo e resettare il telefono. Il modo migliore di effettuare il reset è disconnettere e riconnettere la batteria.

When you reassemble the cables, you can align them with the sockets using the tip of your finger. A spudger or tweezers are way too clunky and is actually far more difficult. When the cable aligns with the socket, give it a firm push with your finger tip and you should be able to feel it click into place. This is actually a pretty tight mechanical fit and is fairly hard to dislodge.

Sheldon Carpenter - Replica

After some 4 seconds stripes start to appear and at the bottom a black band of some 3 mm horizontally over the screen. I've restarted, but it keeps showing a clean screen and then after a while the stripes and band start coming through. Is that a battery issue? And when I slide up the light intensity button, the screen starts shivering.

Jules JUSTE - Replica

And in my wife’s samsung replacing a battery is so easy. I’ve wasted a whole evening and now have broken cables. I get to buy a new screen and no phone for a couple of days. What $@$* is Apple pullig on us here? :(

Jules JUSTE - Replica

Because Apple wants you to just buy a new phone instead of replacing parts.

Bryan Remely -

No doubt about that.

Bryan Thompson - Replica

What can I do

i tried to remove the LCD CABLE WITH A METAL SCISSOR.

NOW IT IS NOT WORKING.

HOW TO REPLACE IT. CAN ANYONE HELP IN THAT

Faheem Sameer - Replica

At the bottom and top are some hardly noticeable white stripes and an after reconnecting the cables 3 times with no difference I connected the old screen again. There were no stripes there… The cables on the new screen don’t look damaged. I’ve repaired other phone screens and I think my display has an issue… what should I do now?

fele felix - Replica

Infine, stacca il connettore del cavo del digitizer. Infine, stacca il connettore del cavo del digitizer.
  • Infine, stacca il connettore del cavo del digitizer.

When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

Pete H - Replica

I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

ilsedorec - Replica

pure genius, this works

Oliver Markl -

Had to try 4 times until I finally got it right, I would say that less than 80° works well for this step, just take your time and be patient with the screws

hermosillaignacio - Replica

It should be noted somewhere around these steps that all but one of these connections get removed.

The connection that is left goes to the Power Button, the Mute Switch, and the Volume Buttons. This connection is on the bottom left, below the LCD power connection.

This connector was not supposed to be removed, and I removed all of them as a force of habit.

Once removed, it seems I removed part of the other half of the connector along with the first half.

This has left my customer's iPhone functional, but none of the buttons, besides Home Button/TouchID), work.

In the long run, this is not a huge issue, as AssistiveTouch can emulate physical button presses. I just figured it should be noted.

Mikereilly2009 - Replica

Using the tool from the opposite side from what is shown here was many times easier (considering I had the front panel attach to a box with the rubber band trick)

David - Replica

Agree, did the same thing.

Andre Silva -

After completing the battery replacement, when I turned the phone back on everything worked right except, the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen. Does anyone know how I can fix this???

Melissa - Replica

After I replaced my battery, I turned the phone back on and everything worked except the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen now. Does anyone know what I did wrong??? I do I fix this???

Melissa - Replica

after battery replacing the Volume and Sleep buttons don’t work anymore. What I did wrong and what I can do to resolve the problem?

Thanks

Nicola - Replica

Step one is recheck your connections. If those are all solid, did you need to pry the battery up to remove it? It’s possible that the prying damaged the cables. If you have photos, share them on our Answers Forum, and you might get some better, more specific help!

Sam Lionheart -

Rimuovi il pannello frontale dalla base del telefono.
  • Rimuovi il pannello frontale dalla base del telefono.

I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.

IMG LINK:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1608...

Oscar Vera - Replica

Odd..my Touch ID stopped working after I replaced the battery too and I did not harm the connector cable at all and the bracket was snug in position. Then randomly 2 days later it started working again with all my fingerprints remembered. Weird.

Bob smith -

Dear Oscar,

I am very interested in your comment but the photo is not available any more. Could you send the updated link?

Thank you very much,

Alex

Alex -

The link to your photo is still not available. I do not understand which screw is being referred to associated with the fingerprint sensor.

Toby Parnell -

To anybody wondering what the picture was, Internet Archive saved it. You can find it here: https://web.archive.org/web/201606120038...

It’s also the same picture as the 2nd picture in Step 23.

Bryan Remely -

Bryan Remely thank you so much. It’s comment threads like this and contributors like you that make the internet such a valuable tool.

WILL D -

why cant u disconnect the lcd and just put the new one in reverse from step 16? wgy to step 32

Cameron Shelley - Replica

When you get the old screen off, check the frame edge where the digitizer rests. Mine was caked with gunk that had accumulated there from use. I gently used the tip of a spudger while holding the phone upside-down-ish and scraped out the gunk. Holding it upside-down kept the gunk from falling into the phone.

Sheldon Carpenter - Replica

thanks for that... I didn't even notice it until I saw your comment.

Brian Hayes -

I’m completely confused about removing the connectors to the screen. It looks to me as though the battery could come out with the screen still attached. How am I wrong?

Lance - Replica

Rimuovi le due viti che fissano il supporto del componente esterno al gruppo display:
  • Rimuovi le due viti che fissano il supporto del componente esterno al gruppo display:

    • Una vite Phillips da 4,0 mm

    • Una vite Phillips da 2,3 mm

  • E' assolutamente necessario inserire le viti corrette nei rispettivi fori. In caso contrario è possibile causare gravi danni all'LCD durante il rimontaggio.

when reassembling, getting bracket back on can be tough. There is a tiny tab which is on the top left of the braket in the picture that can become easily bent. Make sure this is at 90 degrees to the bracket so that it can slide into a small hole to the left of the camera opening, which is used to secure the top left of the bracket to the phone.

copeconsultancy - Replica

Orienta il telefono come nell'illustrazione, con il pulsante home in alto e l'altoparlante voce in basso. Apri delicatamente la clip vicino all'angolo inferiore sinistro della staffa dell'altoparlante voce, verso l'esterno della sua sede nel pannello frontale. Non far leva con forza eccessiva, perché la staffa dell'altoparlante voce è fragile e si piega facilmente.
  • Orienta il telefono come nell'illustrazione, con il pulsante home in alto e l'altoparlante voce in basso.

  • Apri delicatamente la clip vicino all'angolo inferiore sinistro della staffa dell'altoparlante voce, verso l'esterno della sua sede nel pannello frontale.

  • Non far leva con forza eccessiva, perché la staffa dell'altoparlante voce è fragile e si piega facilmente.

  • Usando delle pinzette, spingi verso sinistra la staffa per liberarla dalla clip.

I have found that the shield over the speaker needs to be reassembled precisely if transferring to a new screen. There is very little clearance for the vibrating motor to whip around and if the shield is even a smidge shifted towards it, it will block it and not vibrate. Just something to check when done.

Matt Endress - Replica

Wow, thanks for this comment, this saved my hide. I suspected that I was a bit offset after reattaching the shield and sure enough it was slightly hitting the vibrator. It took a while but I was able to get the shield all the way to the left by hooking the little metal clip on the left side of the shield under some plastic that its supposed to go under. (Recall that when you take off the shield you have to slide it out a bit to the right.) This shield and all the stuff under it is very difficult to get right when closing up the phone.

jonl -

So the ear speaker in the new screen/digitizer is not real and I have to put the original camera, sensor, etc in?

raveencarter - Replica

Images are broken (not displayed). iFixit please fix the images.

Roman - Replica

Rimuovi il supporto dell'altoparlante voce dal gruppo display.
  • Rimuovi il supporto dell'altoparlante voce dal gruppo display.

Aggiungi Commento

Rimuovi l'altoparlante voce dall'iPhone. Se usi le dita, stai molto attento a non toccare i contatti dorati sul pannello anteriore. Il grasso della pelle può rendere inefficaci i contatti.
  • Rimuovi l'altoparlante voce dall'iPhone.

  • Se usi le dita, stai molto attento a non toccare i contatti dorati sul pannello anteriore. Il grasso della pelle può rendere inefficaci i contatti.

Aggiungi Commento

Questo passo richiede la rimozione della fotocamera frontale e del cavo sensori dal pannello anteriore del telefono.
  • Questo passo richiede la rimozione della fotocamera frontale e del cavo sensori dal pannello anteriore del telefono.

  • La fotocamera frontale e il cavo sensori sono attaccate al display con un leggero adesivo.

  • Indebolire l'adesivo prima dell'asporto per rendere la rimozione piu sicura. Seguite le nostre istruzioni iOpener per farlo.

If you just want to get underneath the LCD plate, e.g. to clean water/drinks that got in there, skip to step 34. There's no need to peel off those connectors or use the iOpener heat. Here's a photo: http://imgur.com/AKlFWed

Dan Dascalescu - Replica

In my case, my front facing camera was just foggy, and I suspected dust had got in there (was correct in the end). In this step I had to remove the shield (which you can see still attached in Step 16), which is over the camera itself. It was then possible to gently lift the camera out of it's socket and clean.

Robert Colvin - Replica

Robert -You were able to lift the camera just by itself? I would think the cable doesn't have any extra slack to allow the camera to move without detaching the cable on one end.

Paul Astrachan -

Quick tip: if you can't afford/wait for/don't want the iOpener, filling a small portion of an ankle cut cotton sock with rice (to about the size of a golf ball), tying it closed, and putting it in the microwave for about 25-30 seconds can work just as well!

ndauphin583 - Replica

I used a cherry stone pillow to heat up the display. I though it could be nearly the same as the iOpener one. It worked out very well

Denis Kiesel - Replica

Usando il bordo di un paio di pinzette o una levetta di metallo, delicatamente sollevare il cavo di contatto degli altoparlanti, separando questa porzione della fotocamera e del cavo dal resto dell'adesivo. Forzare unicamente sotto il contatto dell'altoparlante, ci sono sensori e  microchip che possono essere danneggiati viene forzato altrove.
  • Usando il bordo di un paio di pinzette o una levetta di metallo, delicatamente sollevare il cavo di contatto degli altoparlanti, separando questa porzione della fotocamera e del cavo dal resto dell'adesivo.

  • Forzare unicamente sotto il contatto dell'altoparlante, ci sono sensori e microchip che possono essere danneggiati viene forzato altrove.

People, we carefull while removing, IFIXIT guys are not being aware of putting in the guide about the really easy way you can brick the cable. from the contacts down there is a sensor that will come loose easily from the cable if not pryed up! i dont know why they didnt put this HUGE in the guide.

Alma - Replica

Hernan,

I have bricked two of these cables now. Can you give me a step by step approach to removing the proximity sensor cable....I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I insert a flathead screwdriver underneath the part of the cable that doubles back and lift from there. What do you recommend?

Thank you,

sachock - Replica

I got stuck on this step for a while. The cable itself is really thin and I thought it had a piece of plastic underneath it but this is actually part of the display assembly and not the cable.

warren5236 - Replica

Yeah, I kept applying more heat only to realize the same thing. The gold contacts are sitting on a very thin flexible plastic strip that you need to peel up.

jonl -

Usare la punta di uno spudger per sollevare il sensore della luminosità ambientale e il sensore di prossimità dalle loro sedi nel gruppo display. C'è un piccolo supporto quadrato in plastica e metallo per tenere in posizione il sensore di prossimità. Questo supporto è essenziale  per il funzionamento corretto del sensore di prossimità.
  • Usare la punta di uno spudger per sollevare il sensore della luminosità ambientale e il sensore di prossimità dalle loro sedi nel gruppo display.

    • C'è un piccolo supporto quadrato in plastica e metallo per tenere in posizione il sensore di prossimità. Questo supporto è essenziale per il funzionamento corretto del sensore di prossimità.

  • In caso di sostituzione del sensore di prossimità, assicurati che il supporto rimanga aderente al retro del display. Se il supporto viene via insieme al vecchio sensore di prossimità dal sensore stesso, usa un poco di adesivo per riattaccarlo al retro del display.

This step doesn't give complete information.

The proximity sensor is adhered to the frame and must be loosened CAREFULLY and SEPARATELY before applying any pressure to the ribbon itself. It is extremely easy to tear the sensor from the ribbon, meaning when you're on a call with the phone next to your face, any touch will "press" an on-screen button. Look up images of these components to see exactly where they are placed and what they look like.

mikemckinnon - Replica

Hello! I dont know why but I cant make the proximity sensor work. My front camera is working... I don't know what i'm doing wrong, can you help me with that?

jesusbe -

Under the proximity sensor, there is an little white sticker.

You have to put this on to the new screen,

otherwise the proximity sensor will not work properly.

To get it off, try to heat the spot (for example with the iOpener).

FaKlein - Replica

Yep, brilliant piece of advice. I would have missed the white diffusing paper if not for this comment. Thanks!

jonl -

Thanks, I would have miss that one !

K8L -

thank you! this is a HUUUUGE note.

palatucci -

proximity sensor holder, the one with the half metal square should be centered on the two small translucent openings of the front panel otherwise it doesn't work. Mine was misaligned I had to remove and glue it again to make it work.

osmanalpay - Replica

The bracket for the proximity sensor is critical. some more detailed pictures and guidance would be helpful here. After attempting to replace the screen with a new screen that did not come with the proximity sensor, buying a new proximity sensor bracket, etc. I finally gave up and bought another screen that included the front-facing camera and proximity sensor pre-installed.

Jay Seaman - Replica

also, make sure you get the tiny rubber gasket that the prox sensor fits into snugly against the display. when i popped the sensor off, the gasket stayed behind, and i couldn't get the sensor to fit properly in the new display. i checked the old one again and saw the little rubber gasket that contours to the front camera lens opening on the display assembly. pulled it off with tweezers, and used it to get the prox sensor properly seated on the new display. i wish i'd taken a picture of it, but, well, my phone was in pieces in front of me.

palatucci - Replica

I recently replaced a broken screen. The screen had shattered in the earphone area, and since the phone was new to me I didn't know about the camera clip and proximity sensor holder. These parts are just a few dollars online. I believe they are essential. My front camera has visible drift and the proximity sensor doesn't work.

saifalgianfar - Replica

I also had to remove the tiny black rubber gasket and move it to the new display. This was not easy. I also had lots of trouble getting the proximity sensor back in place during reassembly. I seemed to have another connector near the camera that had to be reconnected, but isn’t mentioned in this guide. More pictures on a white phone might make it easier to see all the tiny parts in this area.

smacdvm - Replica

Usare la parte piatta di una leva per sollevare gentilmente via dalllo schermo la parte frontale del cavo, che punta verso la fotocamera. Usare la parte piatta di una leva per sollevare gentilmente via dalllo schermo la parte frontale del cavo, che punta verso la fotocamera.
  • Usare la parte piatta di una leva per sollevare gentilmente via dalllo schermo la parte frontale del cavo, che punta verso la fotocamera.

When reassembling, I found an unknown, small black plastic piece on my work surface. It wasn't anything that I'd removed in any step. It had a curved section and a small tab, the whole thing was less that 1/4". Nothing in any of the instructions mentions it.

I finally figured out it was supposed to go just to the right (while looking at the open back of the screen unit) of the hole where the camera fits. The semi circle hugs the side of the camera when you reinstall.

This had me going nuts for about 30 minutes. Hopefully this info can help you avoid that.

Mike Yagi - Replica

That rubber piece should be put back on the ambient light sensor (pink, purple). Like you said, it hugs against the front camera.

Didier Daniel -

I gotta say, reassembling this assembly it very fiddly and painstaking. There are lots of little parts that need to fit into other little parts while engaging yet other little parts. Seriously, and exploded diagram of all these little parts would be helpful! I took my time, used a very bright light and a magnifying hood while disassembling and reassembling and it really helped.

Sheldon Carpenter - Replica

The small black piece is part of the front facing camera housing, can I also point out to make sure that you remove the clear plastic camera lens housing from the old screen too, and make sure that this and the small rubber housing are placed onto the new screen as these are what hold the lens, the microphone and the ambient light in place. There maybe a small amount of glue around the lens housing which needs to be removed with a sharp blade, please take care when doing this.

Roberto Enrieu - Replica

Thanks Mike and Didier, great help !

tahiruysal - Replica

What is that thing for? I replaced the section for my brother and his cheap repair part came without that thing to stick on and it seems to work…

Jokl92 - Replica

Delicatamente rimuovere il supporto del cavo dalla protezione del cavo LCD, togliendolo dal display. Fare attenzione a non prendere il cavo digitale mentre asportate la fotocamera ed il cavo sensoriale. Fare attenzione a non prendere il cavo digitale mentre asportate la fotocamera ed il cavo sensoriale.
  • Delicatamente rimuovere il supporto del cavo dalla protezione del cavo LCD, togliendolo dal display.

  • Fare attenzione a non prendere il cavo digitale mentre asportate la fotocamera ed il cavo sensoriale.

I would skip Step 24. Why would you remove the very delicate cable assembly from the LCD shield plate only to reattach it to the same shield plate after fastening the shield plate to your new display assembly...

kevindfrye - Replica

Indeed. I just did one today and realized it would have been fine to leave it. Better even.

Paul Jerome -

Only minor thing: It's step 25 you should skip. I replaced my wife's last night and skipped it. Skipping Step 25 was definitely a wise thing to do, since you're simply putting it right back on the same piece once you put the phone back together.

pbpope -

Does anyone know what the copper sticker is for? I accidentally ripped mine apart trying to get it off, it tore easier than paper, being that I didn't even notice I did it until I noticed it was ripped. I also thought to myself, why the heck did I remove this thing when I didn't need to. I've been trying to google it. it might be "iPhone 5S Rear Camera Cooling Copper Adhesive Sticker" but there is no reference as to how big that is. Anyway, I assembled it as normal and the phone works perfectly fine. So any help would be appreciated.

aaron - Replica

I got the same problem with the copper sticker,it has been tore! Is anybody can explain what does it for and where can i get it?!! Because the phone not working properly. Any help would be appreciated.

Mark - Replica

Didn`t tear it , but there is no use in removing it since reusing LCD protector later, !@#$%^ me off. :-)

eriwolde - Replica

Why remove the copper sticker? Why not leave it attached since your are going to reuse LCD protector. Remove the home button before the camera and light sensor and save the LCD protector for last with everything attached to it.

Marshall - Replica

I thirdly will ask for what the copper sticker is for!? I thought some kind of grounding?? I tore mine and the front facing camera is fuzzy now. It looks grainy. Almost like it isn't grounded good. ANY advice here would be appreciated.

Thanks

Kent - Replica

Agreed. Skip step 25. I can't fathom why it's in these otherwise excellent instructions.

leanit - Replica

Agreed - you don't need to do this step

kevinhay - Replica

Also skipped this step.

jonl - Replica

I tore mine also...wish I would have come here and read these helpful tips first.

Michael Huber - Replica

The copper sticker is some kind of ground connection, and is therefore probably very important given the frequencies present inside the phone, and that the phone is itself a radio transmitter and receiver. I too followed the instructions and removed it but I was super careful and didn't tear it, and was able to reattach it. I used the spudger to smooth it and ensure that it makes good contact with the shield. It didn't even occur to me to skip the removal step! But I agree with that advice.

Mark Cousins - Replica

Replacement Front Camera and Sensor Cable didn't have such sticker. Where this sticker should be reattached?

fedor -

step 32:while removing that piece on the LCD shield plate , I sheared that cable which is connected to the shield plate, so I skiped it and completed fixing, after that I found out that my iphone is not working .. I don't understand the problem from this cable or from the new screen ..

please help ..

email: maamoon95@hotmail.com

maamoon95 - Replica

I phone 5s. During peeling off the shield plate from the LCD plate i damage it. What parts should i buy to replace this shield plate? lsanevich@gmail.com

Sanevich - Replica

I did the same as the above to people what part do i need to replace to fix this. I think this is causing my touch portion to not work. My email is camgoins23@gmail.com

Cameron Goins - Replica

I also ripped the copper cable. However when I booted the repaired phone without it, it wouldn’t boot. It was stuck in a loop. To fix this and it worked for me, hold the home button and power button until the phone display turns on again

Jon Nugent - Replica

What is the sticky plastic that I am peeling off called I tore that. Can I replace it?

Tabatha Hurley - Replica

Rimuovere la singola vite Philips #000 tenendo facendo attenzione al cavo del pulsante Home. Durante il riassemblaggio assicurarsi che il contatto sia nella giusta direzione, dal lato della vite più vicina all'LCD.
  • Rimuovere la singola vite Philips #000 tenendo facendo attenzione al cavo del pulsante Home.

  • Durante il riassemblaggio assicurarsi che il contatto sia nella giusta direzione, dal lato della vite più vicina all'LCD.

The tiny "captive spring" came off of the back of the screw and I struggled to get it to go back on. I ended up placing the spring over the hole where the screw goes in, with the holes lined up then putting the screw through both.

Also, the replacement screen I received from ifixit.com was slightly different than the original. The small metal tab where this screw goes in was not slightly bent downward like the original. It didnt make any difference. The screw went back in as normal.

Nathan - Replica

Hi,

The home button doesn't work ?

Help

Sultan - Replica

BE CAREFUL HERE.

This so called 'captive' screw is not very captive at all and I have nearly lost it twice now.

If it does fall out, look closely at the pictures to figure out the orientation of the grounding finger.

Ben - Replica

Two things - As mentioned, the replacement screen is a bit different. Mine had a screw where an empty hole should have been for the "captive screw".. a bit confusing at first. Just remove it and carry on.

Second, if you're an occasional nunce like me, you might be confused by the little tab/prong/raised guy next to the screw. After you've screwed the "captive screw" in, that thing should be hovering above it/the metal plate of the screen, and should look just like the removal picture.

easleyjs - Replica

Out of curiosity, what happens if the "spring contact backing" is not in the correct orientation?

I re-assembled my phone without paying any attention to this, and it seems to work OK... maybe I coincidentally got it right without trying. What would happen if the contact was facing the wrong way?

wilsonmichaelpatrick - Replica

Hi Help !!! The home buton doesn't work anymore !

Chris91177 - Replica

what if you lose the spring contact. does the phone work without it? if not, where can I find a spring contact?

Andreas Kouroupis - Replica

I have this same problem. I lost mine but found the screw where can I order one from?

kristlewomack -

I also have this problem, do any home buttons come with this piece?

viarengo1 -

Hello. I lost the little 'spring clip'. My phone is working erratically. Could that be anything to do with the cip not being in place? Thanks

ggough60 - Replica

I am pretty sure I had replaced the captive spring wrong (didn't see the second image until I have completed the project). But the phone seems to have a perfectly working home button now.

Alan Kang - Replica

This screw/spring combo fell off right before reassembling. Good luck and found the screw again. So my advice: Put a tape around the screw/spring or dismount them from the cable and put them in a safe place. The spare screw delivered with the display was too short.

Tom Vee - Replica

I thought I lost the spring contact, but it actually just got rotated under the section of cable that the captive screw is attached to. The spring contact should be "captive" at the same place the screw is so it should'nt get lost too easily.

Anand Varma - Replica

On the phone I worked on, the screw wouldn’t separate from the “captive spring.” LEAVE IT! It’s more trouble than it’s worth to remove it, Just reuse the screw it will make the re-install on the new screw much easier. Also use the tweezers to hold the spring in the correct orientation as you screw it back on.

Benjamin Finley - Replica

During reassembly, I wasn’t sure wether the spring contact backing was beneath or above the cable. It is hard to see in the 2nd image in step 23.

But in step 24 the 2nd image shows that the spring contact backing is right under the cable.

So the spring contact backing goes first, then the cable and then of course the screw.

Wolfgang Bauer - Replica

For the life of me, I cannot get this screw out. I have been using the same screw driver and nothing has been working.

Warren Binder - Replica

I think there is one step missing here which shows a picture with the correct position of the ‘spring contact backing’. Consider the part which has a hole in the middle: the flat part is sided to top, making the round part sided to bottom. This is a clear picture of the ‘spring contact backing’: http://www.icellulartech.com/iphone-5s-h... (if the link is broken by the time you see it, type the name in Google).

Andre Silva - Replica

Spingere giù il pulsante home, in modo che liberi la protezione del pulsante stesso. Spingere giù il pulsante home, in modo che liberi la protezione del pulsante stesso.
  • Spingere giù il pulsante home, in modo che liberi la protezione del pulsante stesso.

Aggiungi Commento

Rimuovere le due viti Phillips da 1.4 mm #000 dalla base del pulsante Home.
  • Rimuovere le due viti Phillips da 1.4 mm #000 dalla base del pulsante Home.

Screws are stuck...! no way that I can unscrew them :-(

Sumit Bhatnagar - Replica

I had this issue, screws were so tight my screwdriver was starting to strip them. I managed to get one side off by applying massive pressure. I then wiggled the plate around to loosen the other side.

mrnoxious -

Hi every body! I would know much pressure the iphone 5s 's lcd can resist approximately !!? Have you ever stand on it?this happend for me , and in some positions under the direct sun light when the screen is ON , it seems that there is some pits on lcd ! ;-( please help ! If you had the same case! Help Thank You***

Bryan - Replica

I could not get a phillips #000 to release these, but a phillips #00 did the trick perfectly. South African version of the phone, if that makes a difference.

Andrew - Replica

these are the tightest screws I've ever seen in my life. Tried applying massive pressure and just stripped the screws. Not sure what to do now

Bob Mcroy - Replica

Use the #00 Philips on these screws

leeprobert - Replica

Went and bought a #00 when the #000 didnt work. Still no luck. About to lose my mind with frustration.

Mike Manning - Replica

I could not get the 000 or the 00 to work, therefore I tried a #1 flat head from the kit and it worked like a charm.

Sean O'Donohoe - Replica

Sometimes just switching to another screwdriver might help. I noticed that the screwdrivers you often get with displays assemblies are just crap. Invest in a good one.

Didier Daniel - Replica

I was successful by using a 1.5 Phillips screwdriver head from a Stronger toolkit TK-LA40-38PCS

Elaine Palmer - Replica

Glad I’m not the only one I guess. Using insane pressure for such small parts I was able to get the one not originally covered by the cable out. Then the trick of wiggling the bracket loosened the other one which was somewhat stripped by my earlier attempts with 00 and 000 Phillips. What a scare

Bill Pennock - Replica

I had success using the J000 screw from the iFixit Pro kit

Kalin Fetvadjiev - Replica

Rimuovere la base del pulsante Home.
  • Rimuovere la base del pulsante Home.

For those having problems transferring their home button to the new display assembly: When installing the home button into the new display assembly I had the problem that the bracket kept the button "pressed down" because the button did not sink into the front panel completely. After removing the home button and reassuring that there was no dust or similar particles preventing the home button from sitting correctly, I still had to push gently to get the home button into the correct position.

larscmueller - Replica

Usare la punta di uno spudger per far leva sotto il gruppo cavi del pulsante home. Il cavo del pulsante home  è tenuto in posizione da un materiale lievemente adesivo.
  • Usare la punta di uno spudger per far leva sotto il gruppo cavi del pulsante home.

  • Il cavo del pulsante home è tenuto in posizione da un materiale lievemente adesivo.

  • Forza delicatamente lo spudger sotto il cavo per separare il cavo del pulsante home dal pannello frontale.

  • Non rimuovere ora il pulsante home, perché è ancora attaccato al pannello frontale.

Aggiungi Commento

Se necessario, rimuovi il nastro sul pulsante home sulla parte frontale del gruppo pannello frontale rotto. Spingi delicatamente l'angolo in alto a sinistra del pulsante Home allontanandolo dal pannello frontale.
  • Se necessario, rimuovi il nastro sul pulsante home sulla parte frontale del gruppo pannello frontale rotto.

  • Spingi delicatamente l'angolo in alto a sinistra del pulsante Home allontanandolo dal pannello frontale.

  • Non tirare fuori il bottone completamente! Basta sollevare solo un angolo, in seguito usa uno spudger per staccare il resto.

  • La membrana é molto sottile. Se hai l'impressione di stare per rompere il pulsante, riscalda la zona e poi riprova.

Aggiungi Commento

Tirare fuori il resto del pulsante usando una levetta. Tirare fuori il resto del pulsante usando una levetta.
  • Tirare fuori il resto del pulsante usando una levetta.

DO NOT skip this step, or you will damage the very gentle rubber hold around the home button, and that may result in a broken home button.

Addison Rasmussen - Replica

Rimuovi il gruppo pulsante Home dal pannello frontale.
  • Rimuovi il gruppo pulsante Home dal pannello frontale.

Take a moment to clean any crud from the perimeter of the home button itself BEFORE reinstalling…

finnik2d - Replica

Take a moment to clean off any crud from around the perimeter ring of the home button. Use a sewing needle for its sharpness to CAREFULLY pick away any debris. Makes a clean assembly for when re-assembling the button back into a new display module.

finnik2d - Replica

Rimuovi le due viti Phillips  #000 da 2,7 mm dal retro del gruppo display.
  • Rimuovi le due viti Phillips #000 da 2,7 mm dal retro del gruppo display.

Aggiungi Commento

Rimuovi 2 viti Phillips da 1,2 mm su ciascun lato del telaio dell'LCD (4 in totale). Per non forzare l'ultima vite, può essere utile allentare tutte e quattro le viti prima di iniziare a svitarle.
  • Rimuovi 2 viti Phillips da 1,2 mm su ciascun lato del telaio dell'LCD (4 in totale).

  • Per non forzare l'ultima vite, può essere utile allentare tutte e quattro le viti prima di iniziare a svitarle.

Aggiungi Commento

Rimuovi la piastra di schermatura dell'LCD dal gruppo display. Rimane il pannello frontale.
  • Rimuovi la piastra di schermatura dell'LCD dal gruppo display.

  • Rimane il pannello frontale.

Tip: If you're replacing with an aftermarket screen and it doesn't fit very well, sligtly trim the top and bottom edges of the plastic screen bezel (the edge facing inwards into the phone so that its not visible after assembly). You can also trim .25mm or so off the top slot protrusions that lead the screen into the housing. Lastly, if the screen assy is bulging or loose near the volume buttons, apply some thin double-sided tape to the screen assy metal brackets (the ones that slot into the housing). This will create a very tight fit, but allow removal if neccessary.

Paul Nissl - Replica

i finished but now when I touch the screen nothing works??? how do I fix this?????

Rahma A - Replica

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il telefono, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Altre 978 persone hanno completato questa guida.

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Sam Lionheart

Membro da: 18/10/2012

323.342 Reputazione

1.663 Guide realizzate

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FYI Vibrate motor

Just did one of these last night, worked perfectly except that the vibrate motor stopped working, took it back apart and realized that the little prong on the ear speaker cover sometimes gets bent a little with removal. I just pushed it back in and the vibrate motor then had enough room to work again. Make sure that you push it back in all the way first time unless you want to do more work than you have to! These phones have no space to spare!

Adrianne - Replica

For some reason after doing this the home button seems to have sunk and requires a much much harder press for it to work. I think it's the adhesive? Any ideas?

Andrew G - Replica

If the rubber gasket is not seated correctly, it may have wrinkle in it, thus hindering is action.

Fausto Lebron -

During reassembly be very, VERY careful when pressing the display assembly into the rear frame. Many displays are damaged because the phone was dropped and the rear frame hit a hard surface. The rear frame may be slightly bent or out of shape. When pressing the new display in place it might not fit easily and applying even light pressure can BREAK the new display assembly (I know from experience). Supper lame to get literally to the very last step and crack the new display. %&*#!!!

kevindfrye - Replica

just happened to me i also got reboot logo stuck

arley alaniz -

so if your frame is bent, do you recommend not doing a screen replacement? or just be careful?

Tejus S -

I just finished replacing a 5S screen and everything seems to be working great except the touch ID function. I was extremely careful and nothing was ripped or torn. All the above steps were followed exactly. The home button functions perfectly but the scanner isn't responding at all. It doesn't even an error fingerprint......you put your finger on and nothing happens at all. I'm not sure if this means I just didn't secure the connector correctly or if something else is wrong. Any ideas?! Thanks!

johnmclaughlin86 - Replica

John, I am a repair tech at a local phone fixing shop. You may have already fixed it, but after checking if its clipped in, do a hard reset at least 2-3 times. That's ALWAYS fixed it for me if the connector is securely fastened.

chubutta -

Touch ID was not working after screen replacement. When went into settings> touch ID & Passcode and turned iphone unlock on it would show failure. After doing a hard reset it worked perfectly.

MatthewPhipps -

I get a lot of flickering after replacement on the screens after doing 5s repairs. Is this do to defective LCDs or bad technique? I have been working with cell phones for a long time...but the amount of flickering screens I have been dealing with when doing 5s and 5c repairs is large. Any suggestions?

sachock - Replica

could be because of resetting the connectors a lot. it will eventually go away

Joe Hernandez -

Did this last night. Very smooth process. It's advice on being careful around the home button removal is true. I took my time with it as the membrane is super thin. I also transferred the clear front camera plastic riser piece it was easy but not referenced in the guide

boss302beav - Replica

Thanks for the warning y'all about the ambient light sensor and fitting the screen down without breaking it. I also used the camera riser and the other "riser" for whatever was right next to the light sensor? Either way I transferred them to the new screen and made sure each piece went in order from lowest to highest. EVERYTHING works! My screen was so cracked I actually had to pick out pieces because the suction cup wouldn't stick, that was fun. My advice.... GO SLOW! look around before you yanking things off. and finally put things back in order, it sounds elementary but if you do each of these things you should be fine. God Luck!

Nick H - Replica

after everything that i done, the serene has many lines on it. feels suck

yma14 - Replica

Check the LCD connection. Do a hard reset.

Josh Bacon -

I completed the screen replacement but now the iPhone is not charging at all. It shows the battery logo when plugged in at a thin red line and did not move witha whole night of being plugged in. Do I need to recheck something ?

Murali Varadarajan - Replica

hard reset by holding power and home until iphone reboots

Ethan Chow -

I followed this guide and it all worked perfectly. You really do need to be careful when lifting the screen, as the ribbon cable is fragile. Also, I did move the front camera raiser from the old screen to the replacement screen, which was not mentioned in the guide but was mentioned by boss302beav, so thanks for the tip.

Adam - Replica

Hi, work as a technician for a phone store and I have been fixing phones and computer for about 3 years now, last week I changed an LCD on an iPhone 5s and the screen just turns blue when it's coming on, the apple logo shows up but it doesn't come on just go blue and reboot anyone had this problem before please let me know thanks.

T3chboii - Replica

re: 'blue screen' -- not a guaranteed workaround, but sometimes works to remove the EFI shield altogether if the order/size of the screws is forgotten/lost... Apple logo then blue screen

kgale4 -

What should I do if the screen is so horribly cracked that I can't good suction to lift the front?

Nate G - Replica

My screen was shattered spectacularly. I used two overlapping pieces of clear package tape to make a smooth surface, and I was able to open it easily using the iSclack. I believe the iSclack also comes with iPhone-sized adhesive tape strips for exactly this purpose.

davisjan -

Put clear packing tape on the screen.

ohara44 -

Put masking tape on the glass and it should allow you to use the suction cup as usual.

pokeefe -

As some others stated, I did not remove the cable assembly from the shield either. It looks like it would be difficult to do without tearing.

Since I don't have a microwave, I couldn't use an iOpener. Instead I put a hair dryer on high and aimed it at the front of the screen for about 10 minute and was able to pop everything off. If you do this, don't do it near where you've taken the phone apart since the hair dryer will happily blow the screws you need for re-assembly far away.

When Re-assembling the whole thing, there are tabs at the top of the screen that need to fit into the top of the metal case for the whole thing to close. I found this to be one of the trickier parts - if they don't engage properly, and the rest of the case seats, the screen doesn't lie flat and you need to go back to the suction cup to separate it again. Look at the inside top of the old screen under a bright light before doing this and it will be easier to understand how it engages.

storminmike - Replica

1. Make sure you have eye sight a surgeon would be jealous of, you will need it. It's difficult to believe how small those screws are till you get them out.

2. Buy the suction pliers. I tried the one suction cup and by God's grace didn't rip the cable right out. It was MUCH tighter than I imagined. I was being super careful and still it popped off with tremendous force. The clip flew off and amazingly the cable didn't snap.

3. Bright light, magnetic pad for the screws and lots of care you can do it.

RG Murray - Replica

I completed the repair successfully, I did have problems trying to lift the cracked screen with the suction cup, one trick I did do was using a small paperclip inserted into the pentalobe screw hole and rocking it upwards to help lift the screen, once I got it lifted slightly I was able to insert the spudger into the bottom left were there is a small indentation that looks like it is used specifically for prying up on. I was able to then lift the screen up without using the suction cup.

ray g - Replica

This guide worked very well! The hardest part was getting the front panel off using the suction cup. It was very hard to get a tight seal on a cracked screen. After that I got the rest! If you don't have an iOpener, a hair dryer works really well.

arustrugger - Replica

I was very careful but not prepared for the force required to open the phone. I tore the home button cable and now have no touch ID. The iSclack would have been worth it, really wish I had purchased it. I had not realized that it's huge advantage was to prevent you from opening the phone all the way and tearing the cable I tore... The right tool for the job is always the right tool. Get it. Phone works great now, after getting a new home button and opening it another 2 times to properly seat the connectors. I could have sworn they were in. Do miss touch ID though....

Cornforth - Replica

replaced Iphone 5s front panel. Cables attached easy, most everything was smooth disassembling and reassembling, but I could power up my cracked phone before, I cannot power it up now. Checked cables twice, not sure what the problem could be. Any suggestions?

docchameleon - Replica

im in the same problem as you. Did you ever manage to get your iPhone working?

Dudefoxlive -

I completed this installation using this guide which was very helpful. However, the touch screen only works for a few minutes after the first start up. Works very smoothly for awhile, then the touch gets very insensitive, then no response on the touch.

I've reassembled it again making sure the ribbons are firmly connected. Again, it only works for a few minutes.

Any tips?

pedo1337 - Replica

Good guide!:-)

Toni Palmer - Replica

Ok.. I managed to successfully replace the cracked screen of my phone but.... the new scream has a lighter/yellowish halo in the upper-right corner... just below the bluetooth icon.

At first I thought it was maybe a poor quality replacement screen.. then I realised that it happened only when the screen is fully pushed in the phone case. I tried a few times to detach again the screen from the main body, and push it back again.. when detached it looks good enough, when pushed it the halo appears again... any clue if I might have done anything wrong or it's just a bad screen?

thanks!

guidoz - Replica

Sounds like maybe something is pressing against the LCD? Make sure there's nothing pressing against that corner of the phone, check cable routing and adhesive, etc. If you're still having issues, you may want to check out our Answers forum! Good luck =)

Sam Lionheart -

I did that fix this weekend, For me the most difficult part was to remove the Upr speaker, front camera and looms assembly and to put it back in place prorperly on the new front panel. After re-installing everything, I recommmend to test on the screen to see if there is any trouble with the phone on (as mentioned in the guide I had some white lines, so I went back to plug again the connector. Finally the front speaker was propably damaged during the re-assembly as it is now working but with distorsion in the caller voice ! I guess headset and bluetooth devices will do from now on !

Benoit Manfreo - Replica

It was the first time I tried to repair such an electronic device. Only managed it with the information given in the forum. Great job, thank you all! The display stayed black after the first re-assembly and the hint to disconnect the battery did the trick! Thanks again!

Barbara Brandner - Replica

Does anyone encountered the issue that the touch screen is not working when placing iphone on an insulation surface?

ztong - Replica

Managed to replace the screen following the above guide no problems. Still have them vertical lines (tried reconnecting LCD cable, disconnecting battery and several hard starts) and only other problem is my battery is now draining. Any ideas? Used to last at least a day, now I'm lucky if it lasts 6 hours. You can almost see it draining away.

Diane Stevens - Replica

Just completed the replacement of my screen. The guide was very helpful as well as watching the video. To keep all the screws organized, I just drew a large picture of the inside of the phone on a piece of paper and made loops of clear packing tape and put them over the areas where I was going to remove parts. That way I could make sure each screw went back into the proper place. Took about an hour from start to finish. One tiny glitch, the screen isn't perfectly snugly down at the top of the phone, there is a little play. It is tight everywhere else. Oh well, no biggie. All good now.

Ed Colman - Replica

I have a problem with the battery swelled 5s and the display was put in coores stripes etc , and when opened, deconectarlo no longer start. there any way to recover the flex cable?

InfoMario - Replica

The part I worried about the most was removing the Home button but it turned out that was quite easy as long as you took your time removing the gasket from the panel assembly. I did not even use any kind of heat, I just SLOWLY pushed on the button from the opposite side to loosen one corner. The rest of the gasket came off pretty easily. The hardest part by far was getting the front-facing camera, ambient sensor, and proximity sensor back in place during re-assembly. Getting these small parts in the right places took about an hour and was the most frustrating part of the entire process. The 2nd hardest part was reconnecting the Home button cable to its socket. At this point the phone case is just partly open and there is very little space to work with. Once everything was back together, I discovered the screen wasn't responding to touch commands. I had to reopen the phone and reconnect the digitizer cable (it was loose). All appears to working fine. Total time was about 3.5 hours.

Tony Sambrano - Replica

I lost the white pad for the proximity sensor is it ok if I forget about it and move on?

Cody Lavin - Replica

I've made this repair three times so far, and it is only this last time that I realized that step 31 (peeling flex cable from shield) was/is not needed. If you are removing the whole shield anyway and relocating it to your new screen+digitizer, it naturally will come with it.

One word of advice. The magnatized phillips head screwdriver is your friend for removing and installing screws. Using it allows you to pick up and place screws with less chance of losing it. Using tweezers has caused those tiny screws to jump away from me like mexican jumping beans, and they can jump very, very far. There is only one screw that is not magnetic, it's near the compass, and is installed in the square sheild that covers the three flex cables. The screw is located at the north east corner of the shield.

If you have the tools and take your time, and read and watch the videos, this is a fairly easy and straight forward repair.

tonemontone - Replica

I replaced my screen and everything was right until I turned it on. There are white lines from the top to the bottom. The screen is dark but everything works.

Jorge Gamarra - Replica

I removed the front panel, but don't see the battery have a plate, the home button stays on the case. Model A1533, so iphone 5s. Really don't know what to do from here?

Jean Sebastien Chasle - Replica

After refitting everything, the apple logo appairs and then nothing happens, but only after fitting it to a charger. Any ideas of what casues this?

simplyblake - Replica

This guide doesn't mention anything about the extreme likeliness of having to restore the phone due to this procedure... didn't back up phone prior to the Front Panel replacement... lost all data. Had done this on an iPhone 4s without requiring a restore/hard reset. I'm interested if this is at all similar to others' experiences.

7evenseaz - Replica

apple tells you to back up your phone even when you bring in for the smallest repair (obviously for liability)… but why would you not do that for a DIY?

Tejus S -

just repaired my friends iphone 5s screen but he said the phone was dead and i am not sure if the phone works because i am getting nothing on the screen and my computer does not see the phone at all. can someone please give me some advice. no i do not get the charging sign. hope the phone is not broken or the screen. i have also reseated the display connectors and to no difference. some advice would be very helpful.

Dudefoxlive - Replica

replaced the charger board and everything works great now. Great Guides. Love your website keep up the amazing work.

Dudefoxlive -

Salve, ho seguito la guida passo dopo passo ma adesso l'Iphone non accende più, cosa posso fare? Grazie a tutti per il lavoro che fate

Pietro Maita - Replica

Grazie Fixit ..con Voi ho imparata a riparare telefonini e per puro piacere ho risolto decine di problemi a miei amici.

La guida è ottima...un pò meno la Apple che negli anni complica la vita a chi vuole riparare il melafonino. Soluzioni tecniche visibilmente atte a rendere difficile il fai da te.......per dare spazio (forse giustamente) ai dealer e services ufficiali. Ma io non molllloooooooooo :-)

filippucci - Replica

Great fix!! Replaced my screen and digitizer in just under a half hour (I'm an advanced repair person). The hard part was closing the project. If this helps I lowered the ear piece side in first and gently pushed until it would not give anymore. At that point you can see its not fully seated into the case. I laid the phone face down on my desk and gently pushed on the back being sure to evenly place my push force. It snapped right into place. Now my iPhone 5s is like new.

Damian Panitz - Replica

Completed the repair in about an hour with the bare-bones iFixit screen replacement. It really helped to have a good tool set, good light and a magnifying hood and a great guide.

• I also used an old diaper-like cloth to work on. This has saved my bacon countless times as it keeps little screws and bits from bouncing off into oblivion, while making it really easy to spot them.

• The screen I had was utterly fractured. Several layers of packing tape were necessary, and even then the glass wanted to separate from the digitizer when pulling it up. It came up from the middle and I just used a spudger to work it up.

• I did not have the iOpener. I used a hair dryer and got the whole screen fairly warm. Everything detached easily.

• Be sure the frame where the screen fits is clean. I used a spudger holding the phone upside-down to scrape out the crud. I also smoothed out a big ding in the frame with a metal spudger, very carefully scraping and pushing it out. The new screen went in like butter.

Sheldon Carpenter - Replica

I've replaced the screen on 5s but it now doesn't power up, it flashed the apple logo a few times?! Help please!

Rebecca Lyndon - Replica

Great job ifixit people. I was hesitant on starting this process but followed all of your steps meticulously. The availability of zooming in on the pictures helped my 43 year old eyes. The tools i ordered for the repair came with a kit. I used all the tools. Great Job.

soccer123 - Replica

I got a little lost at the point of separating the screen from the rest of the assembly (camera, light sensor etc...) but overall amazing guide and great replacement part. After a few hours of squinting and holding a flashlight in my mouth while cursing the tiny screws under my breath my 5s is as good as new.

SEPARATE AND LABEL YOUR SCREWS!!!

Thanks for another great fix experience iFixit.

Chris Reinhardt - Replica

I followed the guide and it worked great with one exception. My home button no longer works. The screen I purchased was a complete assembly so I did not need to remove the old home button, LCD, or camera display. I've double checked the connection for the home button and it is secure but it does not function. What do I do now?

Brad Hunt - Replica

If you want Touch ID functionality, you always, always, always need to transfer your original home button to your new display—regardless of whether it came with a new home button or not. The embedded fingerprint sensor is paired to your phone's logic board at the factory and will not work if swapped out for a different part.

Jeff Suovanen -

everything perfect but Touch ID does not work. I think it's iOS 10 a lot of people who repair dozens of iPhones are saying Touch ID doesn't work after it gets unplugged.

Brandon Wetch - Replica

Thank you so much!!! I just replaced my wife's screen, she's been limited to Siri control for months, now I guess I'll be losing her to texting and Facebook, LOL!

W Fleming - Replica

Thanks!!! This was pretty easy and everything works great now. I appreciate the detailed instructions. A few things went different than pictured/described, but in the end my iphone works perfectly and looks great!

Ben Handel - Replica

So this is my second install of a new Lscreen, last time the screen diagnosed fine then came back to me with dead spots... I installed another new one and after a while the screen starts having dead spots. whats up??

Austin Pollard - Replica

I completed everything, and everything seemed right, and it turned on successfully- went passed the apple screen to the home screen. But then it wouldn't register touches or pressing the home button. Any ideas? Thanks!

Dayna - Replica

Lifesaver! Thank you so much for this guide! Always so great to know I can count on iFixit's guides. I know this is totally gonna sound like I'm getting paid for this review, but seriously, anyone looking to fix their phones should consider getting that little case that the lady showed. It's got everything you need to fix your iPhones. I have probably fixed like 4-5 phones already and this kit has always had exactly the right tool.

Arturo Stable - Replica

just completed a screen replacement. so far, so good. will keep an eye out for dead spots, stripes, lines, flickers, and all the other things that people mention. was hoping my non-functional touchID would magically return (it stopped working way back when i replaced the battery), but no luck. another great ifixit guide. only hiccup was not realizing right away that the proximity sensor has a little rubber bracket and diffusion screen that must be moved over to the new screen as well. but the comments helped a ton.

thanks ifixit!

palatucci - Replica

When i tried to Insert the New Screen. I Noticed the Top Part is Popping out a Bit. I Tried to Push it and it doesnt want to

DarklingGolem50 - Replica

I'm about to change my cracked screen but I was wondering with so many of the components using adhesive how do you glue them back into place or is the existing adhesive still strong enough to stick on the new display?

Simon - Replica

Typical iFixt screen replacement tutorial… Several unnecessary steps, they make you remove components that has nothing to do with the screen and that you don’t even need to remove in order to replace it. For instance, you can complete ignore steps 14, 15, and 16. Also, steps 32 tells you to remove the adhesive, which is totally unnecessary if you’re going to remove the shielding as shown in steps 42 and 43 and use it on the new screen, I would even advise to not remove the adhesive so it will be placed exactly like it was, and will stick better (adhesives never stick as much once removed).

Some steps seems to be there more to promote an iFixit product than helping, steps 28 is a great example, it tells you to use the iOpener to remove a part that can be easily removed without any heat whatsoever…

Don’t get me wrong, I like the detailed steps and the great, clear pictures, but I think I’ll have to agree with Louis Rossmann. iFixit tend to makes things more complicated than it should be.

Keven Brochu - Replica

“For instance, you can complete ignore steps 14, 15, and 16.”

Oh, it’s not right advice actually. Before operating with any sockets, cables, connectors etc. you have to turn off the power of the device. Exception is the home button connector, because you can’t get to a power connector without detaching it.

These steps are neccessary.

Виталий Романов -

ايسي تاتش للايفون 5اس فين مكانه وهل هو محمي

ahmead hassan - Replica

I lost a few of my screws like a dumbass what do i do.

AppsOnRobit -3' - Replica

Its an incredible rush. Its very nerve wrecking. Its exciting. And pretty difficult. But when its reassembled and it seems to work. You’re as proud as kid who drew its first drawing. Wow %#*@ i did this. Haha Thanks ifixit and author for this guide!!!!!!!

Stijn - Replica

Excellent thanks, didn’t encounter any problems by following the steps !

steve - Replica

I’m having some issues after following this guide, unfortunately.

I replaced the battery and the display.

The display and battery and all functions seem to work fine, except the most important one; the touchscreen. It’s completely unresponsive now. Also, there is a dim corner in the upper left-hand side of the screen. Does anyone know what the cause of this is? Can any kind souls please help me out? Thanks in advance.

Benjamin R - Replica

excellent! thanks for this walkthru

mikeyb540 - Replica

Hello. I now have charging problem, phone won’t charge (it has small red bar but never charges). I didn’t disconnect battery, while replacing screen. Could this wrong precedure damage charging IC?

alen91071 - Replica

If a 68 year old with not so good eyesight and fat finger syndrome can do this, then it has to be a good tutorial. Worked for me!!

Christopher Sargeant - Replica

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