Introduzione

Questa guida illustra come sostituire il disco rigido.

Allentare la vite con testa a croce al centro dello sportello di accesso.
  • Allentare la vite con testa a croce al centro dello sportello di accesso.

  • La vite resta all'interno dello sportello di accesso.

  • Rimuovere lo sportello di accesso dall'iMac.

PH2 head necessary to remove screw.

airshack - Replica

Il pannello di vetro è fissato nella mascherina anteriore con quattordici magneti posizionati lungo il perimetro. Far aderire due ventose agli angoli opposti del pannello di vetro.
  • Il pannello di vetro è fissato nella mascherina anteriore con quattordici magneti posizionati lungo il perimetro.

  • Far aderire due ventose agli angoli opposti del pannello di vetro.

  • Per far aderire le nostre ventose, per prima cosa posizionarle con la maniglia semovente parallela alla superficie del pannello di vetro. Tenendo delicatamente la ventosa contro il vetro, sollevare la maniglia semovente finché non è parallela all'altra maniglia.

  • Se la ventosa non aderisce, provare a ripulire il pannello di vetro e la ventosa con un solvente delicato, come i detergenti per i vetri.

Save $15 dollars and use a plunger. Works perfectly.

Michael Ybarra - Replica

Even better and more elegant: go to a household shop and buy two transparent plastic bathroom baskets with two suction cups each. I found them in Xenos in the Netherlands (maybe also in Germany).

freed - Replica

Perhaps not so elegant but equally effective without any adverse effects to either... try a vacuum cleaner.

Andrew Dobson - Replica

Estrarre delicatamente il pannello di vetro dall'iMac.
  • Estrarre delicatamente il pannello di vetro dall'iMac.

  • Il pannello di vetro presenta diversi piedini di posizionamento lungo il perimetro. Per evitare di staccare i piedini dal pannello di vetro, fare attenzione a rimuoverlo solo tirando verso l'alto.

  • Pulire con attenzione la parte interna del pannello di vetro e l'LCD, poiché la polvere e le impronte digitali saranno sgradevolmente visibili durante l'accensione del display.

The glass panel is somewhat thin and should come away quite easily without much force so be gentle.

adamngordon - Replica

Just an FYI - my glass panel did not line up perfectly when reinstalled. Off by just 1mm. May take another attempt at it later, but does not interfere with the iSight camera. Only someone with an eagle-eye (like me) will notice it's not perfect.

ajpfl - Replica

To reinstall the glass, I lined up the bottom edge first, then pivoted the top in. The magnets pulled it quickly into place.

Magnus Dalen - Replica

I didn't want to use such small suction cups.. so I got suction bathroom handles from Home Depot. Very sturdy and to me, safer choice.

Gail - Replica

Rimuovere le 12 viti seguenti, che fissano la mascherina anteriore al case posteriore:
  • Rimuovere le 12 viti seguenti, che fissano la mascherina anteriore al case posteriore:

    • Otto viti Torx T8 da 13 mm.

      • In alternativa, potrebbero esserci sei viti Torx T8 da 13 mm e due da 25 mm.

    • Quattro viti Torx T8 da 25 mm.

      • In alternativa, potrebbero esserci due viti Torx T8 da 25 mm (all'esterno) e due da 35 mm (all'interno).

I only had two 25 mm T8 Torx on my model. (The two inner orange circles as shown in the diagram.)

stevejansen - Replica

I don't know if this is different but i am in the process of disassembling a 24' imac emc: 2134. i have only: (2) 25 mm T8 screws the inner two on the bottom of the screen. I have (4) 13 mm t8 screws the outer most holes on the bottom and the 2 holes on the right side of the monitor above the drive entrance and the remaining holes are (6) 11 mm t8 screws

ccarter314 - Replica

I have the same screws as ccarter on a 2211 except on the bottom row there are only 4 screws total, the longer ones go in the middle two.

maccentric -

The Torx set I bought from ifixIt is well worth the money. My screw heads in this step were T9 not T8. THe T8 bit was too sloppy in the screwhead and there was a risk of rounding the slots. Having the option to go a size-up was perfect.

Troy - Replica

My 2211 has a different screw configuration.

2 - 32mm long screws towards the middle of the bottom edge

4 - 18mm long screws (2 at the corners of the bottom edge and 2 along the right edge)

6 - 13mm screws along top and left edges

christian - Replica

Mine is the same — two very long, four medium, and six short. Also my T9 worked better than my T8 which was a bit loose.

johann beda -

I have the same screws as Christian. The key is to make sure all screws are flush to the surface, so that the glass can be held up by the magnets.

Kelvin Lau - Replica

On mine, for the red circles, I had the six 13mm Torx plus two 25mm Torx. It's not indicated in the picture here, but the 25mm Torx went on either side of the optical drive.

JD Fox Micro - Replica

I marked next to each hole with a pencil "S, M or L" to indicate which length screw goes where. No guess work on reassembly.

Magnus Dalen - Replica

La mascherina anteriore è ancora collegata all'iMac mediante il cavo del microfono. Sollevare delicatamente la mascherina dal bordo superiore, lontano dal case posteriore. Può essere utile premere delicatamente gli angoli del display con i pollici.
  • La mascherina anteriore è ancora collegata all'iMac mediante il cavo del microfono.

  • Sollevare delicatamente la mascherina dal bordo superiore, lontano dal case posteriore. Può essere utile premere delicatamente gli angoli del display con i pollici.

  • Dopo aver rimosso il bordo superiore della mascherina anteriore dal case posteriore, ruotare la mascherina verso la staffa ed estrarla dal case posteriore.

  • Per la reinstallazione della mascherina anteriore, iniziare dal bordo inferiore e verificare che sia allineata con il case posteriore prima di poggiare il bordo superiore sull'iMac.

The microphone cable must be disconnected BEFORE rotating the bezel towards the stand.

Also, the bezel covers the sides of the case, not just the front. This isn't obvious from the pictures.

wallace - Replica

Looking at the meaning of the LEDS

i've got 3 LEDS on but i don't get a chime or the screen.

i am going to check the inverter voltages but can only find info for the 20" macs iMac Intel 20" EMC 2210 Power Supply Output Voltage Test

does anyone know where i can get info for the 24"

samraby - Replica

i have the same thing, 3 LEDs on but no chime and no screen.

what is the fix? and problem?

Bill -

I'm in the same position. 3 LED's, No chime, no life in the screen, Optical drive starts up but no other signs of life i.e.:fans also don't start up.....

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!!

Dominik - Replica

Scollegare il connettore del cavo del microfono, rimuovendo il nastro secondo necessità.
  • Scollegare il connettore del cavo del microfono, rimuovendo il nastro secondo necessità.

  • Affinché la mascherina anteriore sia posizionata correttamente, verificare di aver inserito il connettore nello spazio vuoto accanto alla scheda della fotocamera.

I didn't disconect the cable. I was working on a large table that allowed me to carefully flip the bezel upside down and rest it that way with the cable connected through the entire process.

fulker - Replica

I also skipped disconnecting the microphone cable. I have a large table and I stacked some books next to the iMac. There was plenty of cable for the bezel to fold nicely over the top of the iMac.

mikkorongas - Replica

I needed to move the bezel away, so disconnected the cable. On reassembly found that the pins had pulled out of the plastic housing. Need to know orientation of the 3 wires in the housing.

prreitz - Replica

I used the floor instead of a table and left the cable connected.

Frank Carrano - Replica

Scollegare il sensore temperatura dell'LCD estraendone il connettore direttamente dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica. Se occorre, deviare il cavo del sensore temperatura dell'LCD dalla parte posteriore della scheda logica.
  • Scollegare il sensore temperatura dell'LCD estraendone il connettore direttamente dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica.

  • Se occorre, deviare il cavo del sensore temperatura dell'LCD dalla parte posteriore della scheda logica.

The temp sensor on my EMC2134 is located underneath the LCD and the cable is not very long. I propped up the LCD to facilitate removal.

Pierre Scerri - Replica

I got an error for the LCD thermal sensor(4sns/1/40000000: TLOP-130.000), and now the fan runs full tilt all the time! I guess I may have damaged the cable...

morgandan - Replica

there are two connections together; picture does not make that clear or which one to remove.

jay - Replica

You have to be extremely careful when pulling out the LCD Temp connection as it doesn't want to come easy. I almost pulled the entire connection off the logic board using too much force. I therefore, used a pair of hemostats to grab the male end (the very top of the connector) and used a small screwdriver to hold the base of the connection in-place (female end attached to the logic board) in order to pull the connector apart.

tpolak - Replica

There apparently is a variant of the EMC2134, like Pierre Scerri said. It has its LCD temp sensor underneath the LCD; the thin wires are about 5 in / 13 cm long and taped to the back of the LCD, and only about 2 in free, so lift the LCD gently.

There is a connector on the place where the LCD temp connector is on the iFixit photo, but in this variant it is marked 'CPU FAN' and there is no reason to disconnect it.

The logic boards in my computer are black, not blue.

goosveen - Replica

Rimuovere le due viti Torx T6 da 5,3 mm che fissano il cavo dati del display alla scheda logica.
  • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T6 da 5,3 mm che fissano il cavo dati del display alla scheda logica.

When they assembled my imac, they forgot to put the two torx screws in. Saved me about 10 seconds. The cable was quite secure and easily popped on and off.

ljheppner - Replica

I used surgical tweezers to put place these two tiny screws back in without dropping them into the computer.

Magnus Dalen - Replica

In my situation, the T6 (fixit's version) got the screw stripped. I'm eyeing the screws with suspicions. It's way too tight than necessary that I have difficulty to unscrew it. Will add comment if I ever get successful to get it out somehow.

xa0s - Replica

Okay. It was extremely difficult. I had to use precision screw (1.4 m/m). It worked on one of the screw. The other one... I was forced to use a hexagon bit at 1.5 size to a success with extreme precision and careful maneuver. I just hope nobody else experiences this as much as I have. Good luck.

xa0s - Replica

Scollegare il connettore del cavo dati del display dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica, estraendo le linguette di plastica a esso collegate dall'iMac all'utente.
  • Scollegare il connettore del cavo dati del display dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica, estraendo le linguette di plastica a esso collegate dall'iMac all'utente.

For my 2134 iMac, I ended up just (carefully) putting my fingers on the edges of the little board and (gently) pulling up. Did the trick for me (I couldn't get anything to happen when I pulled up on the plastic tab, which I did also have trouble finding purchase on)

Emmett Framson - Replica

Same for me :just pull upwards with your nails on both edges.

thierry28722 - Replica

Prima di rimuovere l'LCD, poggiare l'iMac su un tavolo per impedirne una caduta accidentale. Rimuovere le otto viti Torx T8 da 12 mm che fissano il pannello del display al case posteriore.
  • Prima di rimuovere l'LCD, poggiare l'iMac su un tavolo per impedirne una caduta accidentale.

  • Rimuovere le otto viti Torx T8 da 12 mm che fissano il pannello del display al case posteriore.

  • Sollevare il pannello del display dal bordo sinistro e ruotarlo verso il bordo destro dell'iMac.

  • Non sollevare l'LCD rimuovendolo del tutto, poiché è ancora collegato alle parti interne mediante alcuni connettori.

In the photo it appears you're lifting it from its right edge. Sue

(sue.w.clark@gmail.com)

suewclark - Replica

When you fit the LCD back be aware that the microphone cable may be hidden between it and the case and make sure it's free. I had to back track a few stages when I couldn't find it.

suewclark - Replica

My T9 bit fits better than my T8 bit.

johann beda - Replica

Tenendo l'LCD sollevato, scollegare l'apposito cavo tirandolo verso il basso. Il cavo dell'LCD è collegato alla parte inferiore dell'alimentatore. Fare molta attenzione quando si usano le dita per evitare scariche elettriche dai condensatori.
  • Tenendo l'LCD sollevato, scollegare l'apposito cavo tirandolo verso il basso.

  • Il cavo dell'LCD è collegato alla parte inferiore dell'alimentatore. Fare molta attenzione quando si usano le dita per evitare scariche elettriche dai condensatori.

  • In fase di rimontaggio, può essere utile rimuovere l'alimentatore, ricollegare il cavo di alimentazione dell'LCD e quindi rimontare l'alimentatore.

    • In alternativa, il cavo di alimentazione dell'LCD può essere scollegato dall'LCD stesso, invece che dal lato alimentatore.

I was unable to disconnect the LCD cable, possibly due to fear of breaking the connector. I was able to swap drives with it connected. The iMac was placed on its rear cover on a large table, leaving plenty of workspace to rotate the LCD panel to the left side while still connected. The screen will lay at an angle on the case edge. I verified the LCD cable was clear of the case endue and not pinched.

This also avoids going near high power capacitors with your fingers.

stevejansen - Replica

I found it easier to disconnect the LCD cable at the LCD end after lifting the black tape.

Pierre Scerri - Replica

Fully agree. Easiest is to remove cable from LCD in stead of trying to pull it off the board

Rik Veldhuizen -

Remove cable from the LCD Display not the board

Fully agree with others. It is easiest is to remove cable from LCD display instead of trying to pull it off the board. It comes off the board very easily, but it is difficult to put it back onto the board. It is easier to snap the cable bad onto the LCD Display itself.

ToddR -

I could not get the LCD power cable disconnected from the board - it is on really hard and there is no way to leverage it off without breaking something. My solution was to leave the screen attached and rotate it away from the work area/computer (granted you need a work surface that is large enough and a soft surface to place the screen on). If you try this method, be careful that you keep clear of the screen during the remaining steps - should not be hard.

It seemed that if I ever got the connection unplugged, there would be no way to get it back under and re-attached properly.

This is probably the toughest step of the entire process that needs a workaround.

ljheppner - Replica

On re-assembly, Have something ready to rig the display! reconnecting the lcd cable is the most difficult step in the whole procedure

bootsch - Replica

I agree with the previous poster, this is indeed the most challenging part. I ended up removing the screws for the IC board that this connector connects to. This allowed me to pull the board up an extra inch and plug in properly. 4 screws, 120 seconds, done.

orders651 - Replica

As said previously, reconnecting the data cable is really difficult and I managed to bend a pin. Thanks to good support from ifixit staff I managed to bend it back - not sure how as it's so small. Unscrewing the IC board is a good idea. If I ever had to do this again I would avoid disconnecting this cable and just move it out of the way, or disconnect it at the other end as previously suggested.

suewclark - Replica

LIke others mentioned, this was the most difficult step because of the awkward angle. Working alone I managed to get it off but found it much harder to line it up properly for reattachment. What I ended up doing was getting someone to hold the the LCD (resting on the left side, perpendicular to the iMac which was laying down) and I removed the 4 screws that hold the power supply in place. Removing those screws allowed me to lift the power supply a couple inches which made it so much easier to reattach. I wish I had done that when I was trying to remove the cable during disassembly. Good luck!

alexflood - Replica

This was near impossible to remove as there is no room to grip the connector and no easy way to wedge something in there to help remove it. I felt like giving up but the hard drive removal and swap was so easy you just need to get someone to hold the screen for 10 minutes. Don't try removing the cable ... you most likely will get frustrated unnecessarily.

Troy - Replica

I did not disconnect the LCD power cable as others recommended. I simply rotated the LCD to the side, rested on table. This worked really well for me and did not have to be concerned about reattaching this complex connector.

ajpfl - Replica

I agree with others. Just lift display and lean against a prop, perpendicular to table. No need to disconnect, which is error prone.

dkulp - Replica

Les commentaires sont tous en anglais à cette étape, et j'aurai dû faire l'effort de les lire avant de perdre 1h à cause de ce connecteur. Effectivement, il n'est pas nécessaire de débrancher le connecteur de l'écran, car c'est une vrai galère à remettre sans risque de le casser. On peut donc laisser l'écran branché, à la verticale, soigneusement incliné sur un mur, l'imac toujours posé sur le bureau. J'espère que ce message sera utile, car j'aurai bien aimé qu'on me le dise avant !

Nicolecameleon - Replica

+1 for removing the LCD cable from the screen side, not the mac side.

Not removing it, depending on the lenght of the cable which doesn't seem to be fixed, might not be an option for everybody.

Michael Sacchi - Replica

Remove cable from the LCD Display not the board

Fully agree with others. It is easiest is to remove cable from LCD display instead of trying to pull it off the board. It comes off the board very easily, but it is difficult to put it back onto the board. It is easier to snap the cable bad onto the LCD Display itself.

ToddR - Replica

This is really a good way to break the cable! Avoid the stress easily by removing the four screws (T-9) holding the video board down, then lift the edge near the cable before removing. Also, the cable is easily reattached to the board with these four screws removed. Reattaching without doing so is time consuming and quite difficult. This approach is easier than removing the cable from the LCD.

airshack - Replica

Reconnecting the LCD Connector was the only challenging part of this procedure. I must have bent the pins on the LCD connector when taking it off so was unable to reattach. I ended up taking off a bracket that was adjacent to the LCD connector as well as the other end of the cable....O I disconnected these 2 pieces and was able to examine the other end of the LCD connector I was able to bend the pins back into place and the connector snapped back into place. The display works and the hard drive works as well. Thanks iFixIt!

csimmons20 - Replica

I wish I had read your comments about not disconnecting the LCD. It was really hard disconnecting and connecting it back was !@#$. I managed to twist some of the pins so in the end I had to unscrew the board, twist the pins back and plug the cable. When I restarted, I really thought that it was never going to work. So a down point for not pointing to comments at step #11. Otherwise great tutorial.

Alain Bartolo - Replica

Too difficult to re-connect afterwards. Accidentally, one pin was bended when re-plugged. I ended up unscrewed the power board, and fixed the pin. Re-connect and OK.

Nick Lam - Replica

I found a far easier way. Just gently turn the screen 90° to one side and don't disconnect the cable! If all you are doing is replacing the HD, there's plenty of room without disconnecting the cable. At least on my machine the cable is flexible and I didn't have any problem making room. Way, way easier.

baslking - Replica

Thanks for the suggestion to remove the IC board. This was indeed the easiest for me, after spending 15 minutes trying to reconnect the cable.

Sccoaire - Replica

I didn't disconnect the LCD cable. I stacked some books on the side and put a blanket on them. I was then able to fold the screen next to the computer LCD still connected. Should some iMacs have a shorter cable this may not be an option to everyone. Thanks for good tips everyone.

mikkorongas - Replica

I also did not remove LCD cable. Just rotated the LCD away and propped it by the edges with the plastic inserts from the box my new drive came in. Plenty of room to get to the HDD.

EBS - Replica

No need to remove the LCD panel.

I agree this is the toughest step in the process — and the most unnecessary. I was able to rotate the panel out of the way without disconnecting it, placing a cloth between the chassis and the panel now leaning against it to prevent any inadvertent damage.

Tim Murtaugh - Replica

As others have stated, disconnecting the inverter cable from the power supply first is NOT the way to go. I ended up damaging the cable trying to get it out before I went to disconnect it from the LCD panel end instead. Much easier to do and much less prone to damaging the cable or it's insertion socket.

The guide needs to be updated and the suggestion to pull the inverter cable downward from the power supply removed. It is not a good idea and will cost you at least a few days and $10 to replace the cable should something go wrong. Please update this guide.

multimediavt - Replica

Get the male part out of the female fitting is a standard problem with boards. There are pulling/clamping devices you can get at electronics stores to pull the fitting out. They are like fuse pullers many car fuse boxes are equipped with. IFixit should sell them with the kit. I did it all without any problems, formatted the drive and then installed the operating system and defeated Apple who wouldn't even consider replacing the drive in my "obsolete" machine which my wife now uses instead of a crappy Dell PC.

peterhaggstrom - Replica

If you are just changing the HDD, instead of removing the cable at the left, simply pivot the LCD 90 degrees counter-clockwise and gently set it back down. This allows one to access the HDD to swap.

Eriamjh 1138 - Replica

I completely agree, it is way easier to remove the LCD cable from the LCD panel itself

Sve Jo - Replica

Continuare a sollevare l'LCD dal lato destro. Rimuovere l'LCD.
  • Continuare a sollevare l'LCD dal lato destro.

  • Rimuovere l'LCD.

Much simpler to remove the LCD cable at the LCD insertion site, rather than trying to remove it as suggested in the manual. Reinsertion is also less traumatic.

Eric Shaffmaster - Replica

Se occorre, rimuovere i pezzi di nastro che fissano i cavi del sensore termico dell'unità ottica o del disco rigido all'iMac.
  • Se occorre, rimuovere i pezzi di nastro che fissano i cavi del sensore termico dell'unità ottica o del disco rigido all'iMac.

Aggiungi Commento

Scollegare il sensore termico del disco rigido estraendone il connettore verso l'alto e verso la parte superiore dell'iMac.
  • Scollegare il sensore termico del disco rigido estraendone il connettore verso l'alto e verso la parte superiore dell'iMac.

  • Durante la rimozione del connettore, può essere utile premere con i pollici le linguette sui lati del connettore verso la parte superiore dell'iMac.

This is unnecessary since the other end of the heat sensor is removed from the old drive.

dkulp - Replica

La pressione della parte superiore della staffa del disco rigido per sbloccarla dal case posteriore richiede una buona dose di forza. Si consiglia di poggiare l'iMac con la staffa rivolta verso il basso su un tavolo per evitare urti e danni. Premere la staffa del disco rigido verso il bordo inferiore dell'iMac per liberarla dal case posteriore, quindi ruotare la parte dell'unità verso di sé.
  • La pressione della parte superiore della staffa del disco rigido per sbloccarla dal case posteriore richiede una buona dose di forza. Si consiglia di poggiare l'iMac con la staffa rivolta verso il basso su un tavolo per evitare urti e danni.

  • Premere la staffa del disco rigido verso il bordo inferiore dell'iMac per liberarla dal case posteriore, quindi ruotare la parte dell'unità verso di sé.

To avoid the pain on my finger tips in applying enough force, I used a bit of microfiber towel as padding under the sharp plastic edge and it was then easy.

Magnus Dalen - Replica

I found out that the black plastic bar is a lever, which swings up outwards left side — away from the backside of the casing — and then drops off of the right side, which releases the rubberized bolts, that hold the hard drive! The hard drive then could be lifted easily out of its hinges. Mind the cables!

koenigt - Replica

Using a trigger clamp to compress the black retainer was the easiest method to remove the drive. Move the sensor wires out of the way then position the clamp in such a way that one jaw is on the drive and the other is on the black plastic. Compress it just enough to clear the metal support. Then to reinstall reverse the process.

capt_ir8 - Replica

DON’T do this! you’ll likely hurt yourself. I tried doing this way and it just required more force than i was comfortable applying. just unscrew the HDD off the black “lever” piece. The HDD will just come right out. The side opposite of the black “lever” are secured with pins, don’t bother trying to unscrew from there.

yamaoka01 - Replica

Ruotare il disco rigido verso di sé, quindi sollevarlo dai piedini di montaggio. Il disco rigido è ancora collegato mediante i cavi SATA.
  • Ruotare il disco rigido verso di sé, quindi sollevarlo dai piedini di montaggio.

  • Il disco rigido è ancora collegato mediante i cavi SATA.

  • Durante la reinstallazione del disco rigido, fare attenzione a non premere gli anelli di tenuta in gomma attraverso le aperture del case con i piedini inferiori del disco rigido, poiché per recuperarli potrebbe essere necessario rimuovere la scheda logica.

Aggiungi Commento

Inserire l'estremità piatta di un inseritore fra il connettore del cavo di alimentazione SATA e il bordo del disco rigido.
  • Inserire l'estremità piatta di un inseritore fra il connettore del cavo di alimentazione SATA e il bordo del disco rigido.

  • Ruotare l'inseritore per separare il connettore dal disco rigido.

Please define "spudger"??

Ken L - Replica

This is the hard part if you're gonna use a bracket for 2.5 to 3.5 via SSD. I had to modify this one thrice. It's now all fit in nicely.

xa0s - Replica

Estrarre il connettore SATA di alimentazione dal disco rigido.
  • Estrarre il connettore SATA di alimentazione dal disco rigido.

Aggiungi Commento

Scollegare il cavo dati SATA estraendone il connettore dal disco rigido.
  • Scollegare il cavo dati SATA estraendone il connettore dal disco rigido.

This cable was not long enough to reach the SSD connector for me. The adapter I used, and I suspect many used, puts the SSD centred, thus the data and power connectors a bit further away from where the original drive's connector were. The power cable had enough give to plug it in, but not the data cable. I knew the data cable had more give from the other end of it, so I careful pulled it with, ashamed to say, force. I heard tape giving away, so I figured it was taped down underneath. I managed to get just enough length to plug it in.

Sccoaire - Replica

Rimuovere la porzione di nastro in schiuma che copre il sensore termico del disco rigido.
  • Rimuovere la porzione di nastro in schiuma che copre il sensore termico del disco rigido.

Aggiungi Commento

Mediante la punta di uno spudger, sollevare l'aletta di blocco del sensore termico, tirando leggermente il cavo di quest'ultimo. Se il sensore termico è incastrato sulla superficie del disco rigido, andare al passaggio successivo.
  • Mediante la punta di uno spudger, sollevare l'aletta di blocco del sensore termico, tirando leggermente il cavo di quest'ultimo.

  • Se il sensore termico è incastrato sulla superficie del disco rigido, andare al passaggio successivo.

This part just came right off, I didn’t have to disconnect anything. Meaning, the adhesive was pretty loose and this along with the next piece just came right off together. Basically fell off :p

yamaoka01 - Replica

Mediante l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, rimuovere la staffa del sensore termico dalla superficie del disco rigido.
  • Mediante l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, rimuovere la staffa del sensore termico dalla superficie del disco rigido.

  • In caso di sostituzione del disco rigido, trasferire la staffa e il sensore termico nella nuova unità. Se durante la reinstallazione l'adesivo non aderisce, applicare un pezzo di nastro biadesivo nella parte inferiore delle due linguette piatte della staffa del sensore termico.

I used a tiny plastic wedge to pry this off and it came away easily.

Magnus Dalen - Replica

Rimuovere le due viti Torx T8 che fissano la staffa del disco rigido a quest'ultimo.
  • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T8 che fissano la staffa del disco rigido a quest'ultimo.

  • Dopo aver rimosso le due viti, la staffa del disco rigido sarà libera da quest'ultimo.

  • Non dimenticare di trasferire questi componenti alla nuova unità.

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Rimuovere i due piedini Torx T8 dal lato del connettore del disco rigido.
  • Rimuovere i due piedini Torx T8 dal lato del connettore del disco rigido.

  • Non dimenticare di trasferire questi componenti alla nuova unità.

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Mediante l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, rimuovere le parti di schiuma EMI dal lato inferiore del disco rigido.
  • Mediante l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, rimuovere le parti di schiuma EMI dal lato inferiore del disco rigido.

  • Non dimenticare di trasferire il componente alla nuova unità.

  • Se stai installando un nuovo disco rigido, abbiamo una guida di installazione OS X per aiutarti a tornare rapidamente al lavoro.

I'm confused about the purpose of the EMI foam in step 25:

Quote: Use the flat end of a spudger to remove the piece of EMI foam from the underside of your hard drive.

Don't forget to transfer this to your new hard drive./Quote

Would you please elaborate about this part?

Patrick Percy Blank - Replica

Yeah, I had this same question. Makes no discernable difference or use that I can see.

Gail - Replica

I guess this is for a HDD only, not for SSD. It's for grounding of the metal chassi of the HDD. /sm4tfe

Kent - Replica

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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Brittany McCrigler

Membro da: 05/03/2012

78.553 Reputazione

433 Guide realizzate

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113 Membri

5.988 Guide realizzate

Thank you Brittany for putting together an awesome guide! I was able to swap in a leftover MBA SSD into my 2007 iMac before gifting it to my father-in-law. This iMac was showing its age with Lion installed, mostly due to 2 GB of RAM and a so-so magnetic drive. I was hesitant to gift a hand-me-down with little usable life. Not anymore! I have no doubt that the 5GB of RAM and a super fast SSD breathed another 5+ years of enjoyment into this iMac. Reuse beats recycling! Thank you!

stevejansen - Replica

FYI - The iFixit store links for the Torx screwdriver incorrectly displays the security Torx drivers. I had my own set of regular Torx drivers and competed this successfully. I did not find the security (center post) variant of the Torx screwhead anywhere in my iMac.

stevejansen - Replica

Security Torx drivers work on both regular Torx and security Torx bits, so we sell the security drivers to keep people from having to buy two tools.

David Hodson -

Excellent guide. The entire process took less than 90 minutes and I was not in a hurry. Everybody told me that the iMacs were designed to be "user-proof" and had to be worked on by qualified technicians. What do they know? Now my computer is back up and running with a 1TB drive and it cost less than $150 - even with shipping costs factored in. Great job guys!!!

ljheppner - Replica

The guide was extremely helpful, however, there are a few things that I wanted to mention that might add to the guide:

* Since my work surface was large enough to allow the bezel to sit on a flat surface while working on the CPU, I did not need to disconnect the microphone cable, thus I wasn't required to remove the tape from the plug.

* The iMac I fixed was running for over 4 years, so there was a lot of dust around the fan and stuck to the inside of the bezel. This surprised me. Someone might want to keep a small vacuum handy, or get a can of air. Be warned: This dust will require you to clean the LCD. No getting around it.

* Since I have big fingers, I was finding it almost impossible to reconnect the LCD cable that is underneath the power inverter logic board. So I found it much easier to remove the four screws on that small logic board, lift it up, plug the cable back into the bottom, and reattach the board. Otherwise I would have spent a long time trying to plug the cable.

Thanks again!

Roger Linkenhoker - Replica

Great guide ... managed to upgrade my 320GB to a 2TB drive with no real fuss. NOTES ... you should get a SATA external dock and do the OSX install and TimeMachine recovery so your HDD is ready to go. You should boot test as well before the change out procedure. One recommendation .... when you reassemble the front glass to the LCD its a good idea to let an air purifier run for a few hours in the room first. Wiping the LCD builds a small static charge and dust immediately sticks to the glass or LCD. The air filter trick was magic.

Troy - Replica

Torx T8 'security' was not required, just a regular T8. It might be worthwhile to mention that. It prevents people (like me) from unnecessarily buying the security T8.

Great manual though! It saved me a lot of money. Thanks.

Philip - Replica

Guide worked perfectly. Wish I would have had some canned air on hand to clean out the innards. Other than that it was great. Only thing I messed up was not getting the front bezel back on perfectly. I had a little foam pushed down over the access door after getting the bezel on making it impossible to get the access door back on. So I just left it off for now. When I am feeling a little more ambitious I may take all those screws off to fix this.

After installing I just put in my original Snow Leopard install CD and rebooted. Had to go to disk utilities and reformat the new drive and then everything installed just fine. I will upgrade to Mountain Lion after Snow Leopard. I opted for this route because I had the Snow Leopard CD handy and just wanted to make sure the hard drive install was proper.

The hard drive I installed was a Seagate 2TB 7200 RPM that I picked up from Crucial for $110. Old hard drive was completely dead.

Scott Handley - Replica

Excellent guide. I was able to replace the HD in under an hour with distractions.

adamngordon - Replica

Great Guide!

I replaced my old hard drive with a Seagate Hybrid Drive ST2000DX001 2TB MLC/8GB 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s NCQ 3.5 in about an hour. Make sure to to have this drive formatted before you install or have a bootable drive to run disk utility after installation of the hardware.

My ole iMac is running Mavericks, Adobe Creative Cloud versions of Photoshop, Illustrator, After Effects... etc. with no problems.

NerdForHire - Replica

How is the hybrid drive working out for you? Was there a very noticeable speed gain? thanks!

peakay -

Hi, Is your iMac EMC 2211 1225A model? I brought my iMac to repair to change my hard drive to Western Digital 2TB Green Hard drive with 6GB/s and technician said the hard drive is recognized by the computer while they were booting it. They have upgraded firmware to the newest version of 7.0 (?) but still iMac hasn't recognized the new 2TB hard drive. Do you know anything about this situation?

Qanda -

Thanks Brittany for this excellent guide. I just replaced a crashed 500GB drive with a new 2TB one. Followed the guide step by step, except step 11 where I rotated the LCD panel instead of unplugging it. Found that the plug was not accessible enough and was concerned about breaking it loose, or having problems plugging it back in.

Olivier Boudry - Replica

Just replaced the original 120 GB HD with a 1 TB HD. The directions were easy to follow and managed to swap out the HDs with no issue… and saved a few hundred bucks in the process. I purchased the suction cups, spudger, and 54-bit Driver Kit from iFixit and found them very useful. Good tools to have for future repairs on other comps.

dgoosbey2 - Replica

Does anyone know if I need to get adaptor cable to install an SSD in the place of the HDD or do they fit in the ssd? SSD on the optical bay doesn't work for me since it is a ATA conection

Spiros Polikandriotis - Replica

Awesome guide, tip use cling wrap to keep the LCD clean before removing.

ssbyers - Replica

Really good guide. Took the opportunity to have a good clean out in there whilst it was apart. Some air or a small squeezy thing for cleaning camera lenses would be worth having to hand.

Thanks for giving my 5yr old iMac a new lease of life!

Adam Sharpe - Replica

Thank you iFixit and Brittany for this guide. I was able to install a 1TB drive to replace the original 320GB that had failed. Luckily it would still work for a few hours before freezing so I was able to make a Mavericks USB installer and back up to an external Western Digital before it eventually stopped turning on at all.

Thanks for stocking all the items in the EU store as well. One thing I would mention is that as the spudger was not listed under the 'tools needed' section I forgot to buy one, luckily I bought one off Amazon which arrived after the iFixit package and before my hard drive replacement, but in the future it might be an idea to include it under tools needed.

Philip Boardman - Replica

I followed this guide to swap the HD for an SSD, and the main problem was finding a suitable way to mount the SSD. You need a 3.5"-2.5" bracket which has the outer mounting points of a 3.5" drive and accepts the same large-threaded screws as a 3.5" drive. Most are either shorter than a 3.5" drive and/or are threaded for smaller screws.

In the end I found this plastic bracket:

http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/computing/i...

But when the drive was mounted properly in the middle of the bracket, the SATA data cable did not reach to it. So I cut away one of the plastic fins, and lashed the drive to the near side of the bracket with one screw and a cable tie right around it. It does the job surprisingly well - I don't think it will shake loose, and nobody can see it anyway :-)

Brian Candler - Replica

For an exact fit, you can use an SSD to HDD Converter such as the Icy Dock MB882SP-1S-2B or MB882SP-1S-1B (http://www.icydock.com/goods.php?id=77). This is a plastic case with the exact form factor of a 3.5" HDD --- your 2.5" SSD fits inside the converter, then you attach the converter to Apple's HDD bracket and reinstall the same as an HDD. Avoids any jury-rigging or alterations.

Scott Boydman -

Excellent guide, worked like a charm. I too disconnected the LCD cable from the LCD end, much easier. When replacing the thermal sensor, make sure the flat side (with the label on it) and not the rounded side faces down against the drive before you replace the bracket and tape. Also, helps to have a good clean microfiber cloth and can of compressed air on hand. I used the air to clean the insides as best I could, but it really helped with cleaning the LCD before replacing the glass panel. The replacement kicked up a ton of dust onto the LCD that I only noticed with a flashlight, so I alternated cloth and canned air to get it as dust free as possible before replacing the panel. There were streaks under the glass panel I never knew existed, and now my display is brighter now than ever before. My old iMac has a new lease on life, and a week later is running strong. Thanks, iFixit!

brad - Replica

Thank you for this awesome guide, worked for me. I would also suggest to leave LCD cable connected if you only need to replace HD, it is enough to lift display upright.

Liebfried - Replica

Wow my machine is worse that it was before. Everything is connected and m

y screen is black & I get a beep. What do I do to get it back to the way it was?

MoDa - Replica

All went well until I realized that my new hard drive had no temperature sensor connector. I need to decide whether to attach the sensor lead back to the board and leave the sensor unattached to the hard drive, or just leave both ends of the sensor unattached. Anyone have a recommendation?

hopatut - Replica

Great guide. I used it to install a SSD. The hardest part was make shifting it so the 2.5 drive would fit in the 3.5 slot. I had an adapter but the iMac Sara cable wouldn't reach so I pretty much made a web of zip ties. Don't disconnect the LCD cable unless you have to. It was hard to get it back in without a buddy.

Joel Persinger - Replica

Excellent guide.I just replaced my iMAC(24" 2008 ) HDD to Samsung SSD 250GB within 35minutes.TY

GODMAN2020 - Replica

Thank you ever so much for such a comprehensive guide. I upgraded mine to a 500 gb ssd. Unfortuntely the fans inside the machine are spinning like crazy. I have tried using external software to control them but no luck, the hdd temp reading is too high, the optical drive fan is super noisy.

Am I just simply unlucky?

The Reviewer - Replica

It's surprising the hard drive in my mid-2007 iMac lasted as long as eight years. But it became so slow that even typing often produced the beach ball of death. Memory upgrade to 4Gb had minimal effect. So I nearly spent £1600 on a replacement up to date iMac. Then I spotted the 9to5 guide http://9to5mac.com/2015/02/13/how-to-swa... and subsequently yours.

I have no experience of the insides of computers but could find no local expert to do this work. Trying for help from the nearest Apple dealer was a no-no. They just want you to buy their latest machine.

But, with the help of your guide (and my wife), I did it myself with no problem. The tools cost about £20 and the SSD £250 (a 1Tb Samsung 850 EVO), plus a small amount for the TRIM enabler.

I now have my fantastic iMac back again and don't even have to listen to the whir of a hard drive - or a fan!

Thank you so much for publishing this information.

Peter Milewski - Replica

I forgot to mention that I followed the advice of one of your previous commenters and detached the LCD cable from the LCD end not the other end as in your guide. It was perfectly easy but I had to replace the sticky protector with ordinary sticky plastic tape.

Peter Milewski - Replica

Well done with this guide, which I had next to me as I replaced my 500 Gb HDD (WD5000AAKS SATA) for a 500 Gb SDD unit (Samsung 850 EVO).

However, I now have a fan spinning like mad, trying to cool a disk that is believed to be too hot, and that is due to the fact that my former HDD had a 8 pin port (4 per row), right next to the power and the SATA connectors, in which the HDD temperature sensor wire end of was plugged. That is, the HDD had a built-in temperature sensor. Since I could not connect this to the new SSD drive, leaving it open might be signaling my OS to keep the fan always on.

I would not want to disable the fan completely, however, nor I believe a third party software is really necessary. Ideally I'd disable a "fan on" signal in response to a "hot hard drive" signal. Is there anyone here who tried such a solution ?

It this is impossible, then I wonder what type of probe should I obtain and attach to what is now the loose end of the HDD temperature cable. Is this a thermistor?

Cheers, Max

Massimo Pinto - Replica

Ottima guida, molto accurata, grazie. Ho sostituito l'Hard Disk con un SSD da 2,5'', l'unica difficoltà è stata dovuta ai cavi di connessione SATA che sono molto corti.

massimolevi - Replica

Problemi con l’adattatore o con la ventola?

Grazie.

claudioner -

Thank You !!Brittany, I just replaced the hard Drive in my iMac it was easy following your guide.

Haydee - Replica

Excellent instructions, it took me about 15 minutes to change the hard drive. A few notes:

1. For step 4 on my unit I had two 35mm in the bottom center, two 25mm on the bottom outside and two more 25mm on the right hand side of the screen, leaving me with six 13mm screws on the top and left hand side.

2. If you have someone to hold the display panel, or a way to prop it securely, you can skip steps 7 and 11, this makes the process go very smoothly.

Getting El Capitan on when the previous hard drive was completely shot took about 10 hours. My other Mac was too old to be upgraded to Lion. So I couldn't make a USB install on the live Mac from the App Store. My Snow Leopard DVD was destroyed, and the hard drive which had the recovery partition was dead. The nearest Apple Store is a 320 mile round trip. I found other sources for the El Cap installation, but posting about that is probably against the rules here.

Michael Anderson - Replica

Do not remove the display cable from the board! It is very hard to remove, personal experience, and it is unsettling to try and get it back on without feeling like your going to break something. Either have a buddy hold the display on its edge while you quickly remove the hard drive or remove the LCD power cable from the screen itself. It is very easy to do. Just peel back the tape and pull straight up on the connector to remove it. I had to use a pair of pliers to grip the connector as I have big fingers and was afraid I might pull the cables from the connector. Very easy to then reattach cable and push tape back down.

Matthew Metzinger - Replica

I made a USB bootable El Cap installation disk after downloading from Apple and it worked fine to install El Cap onto this model iMac. Even with 2GB of Ram it works fine, if a little slow. I just purchases RAM to upgrade it to 4GB which should work fine.

rgron - Replica

Go for the 6 gig of ram upgrade kit. It's matched and works fine even if apple only rated the machine at 4. Your Mac will thank you for it.

David Power -

Early 2008 iMac now working fine after a 500gb ssd and 6 meg of ram installed. Who needs to spend another $2500 +.

David Power - Replica

Wow it’s cool, thanks for detailed instruction.

how you think If I put on imac early 2008 instead of HDD a SSD with transfer speed 6gb/sec Сso will this speed be maintained without loss???

Ihor - Replica

I have an early 2008 2.4 ghz imac. Had to replace hard drive and selected a 320 go drive. Old drive was 250gb. Called Apple and they were unable to format new drive. Need procedure to format new drive.

Rich. 2/12/2018

Richard Vellemam - Replica

I have all the parts for this model… save for the screws. the iMac came to me disassembled and missing the following screws:

STEP 4:

13mm T8 x8 OR 13mm T8 x6 & 25mm T8 x2

25mm T8 x4 OR 25mm T8 outer x2 & 35mm T8 inner x2

STEP 8:

5.3mm T6 x2

STEP 10:

12mm T8 x8

STEP 23:

T8 hard drive bracket x2

STEP 24:

T8 connector side x2

Any tips for finding inexpensive replacements for these (and for determining which I would need for STEP 4)? The inexpensive part being key, or it’s not really worth doing anything more than recycling the poor old machine.

Adam Boyd - Replica

Has anybody had any issues with SSD Samsung EVO 850 with an iMac 24” 2007 model? I’m thinkin of adding it to help boost my iMac read/write speed but not sure?? thanks

Richard “Titch” Cooper - Replica

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