Introduzione

Rimozione del pannello del display per accedere al disco fisso, all'unità ottica e all'alimentatore.

Allentare la vite con testa a croce al centro dello sportello di accesso.
  • Allentare la vite con testa a croce al centro dello sportello di accesso.

  • La vite resta all'interno dello sportello di accesso.

  • Rimuovere lo sportello di accesso dall'iMac.

isn't it actually pc2-5300s ?

grze - Replica

Il pannello di vetro è fissato nella mascherina anteriore con quattordici magneti posizionati lungo il perimetro. Far aderire due ventose agli angoli opposti del pannello di vetro.
  • Il pannello di vetro è fissato nella mascherina anteriore con quattordici magneti posizionati lungo il perimetro.

  • Far aderire due ventose agli angoli opposti del pannello di vetro.

  • Per far aderire le nostre ventose, per prima cosa posizionarle con la maniglia semovente parallela alla superficie del pannello di vetro. Tenendo delicatamente la ventosa contro il vetro, sollevare la maniglia semovente finché non è parallela all'altra maniglia.

  • Se la ventosa non aderisce, provare a ripulire il pannello di vetro e la ventosa con un solvente delicato, come i detergenti per i vetri.

At this stage and later handling the LCD I found thin cotton gloves helped to reduce smudges

john31 - Replica

My GPS unit's car mount suction cup worked nicely here - couldn't find any at the store and didn't want to wait for mail order!

Two cups would make it easier but one is fine if you place it in the center and are careful to pull the panel straight out.

Mathew Hendry - Replica

Why use suction cups when some finger nails will do the job nicely, though a plastic spudger might work too. Start at a top corner. Prize the glass away from the case and leave finger nails in. Move the other hand along the top edge and then with finger spread peel the screen cover away. Be careful not to twist plastic I suppose, but I've had no difficulties.

damianwise - Replica

3M Command Strip hooks in opposite corners is another fabulous option when suction cups are not available!

Adam McCombs - Replica

Tape works fine, here. Search for a YouTube video for a simple look-see.

Richard - Replica

I didn't have any suction cups, but my pencil sharpener (the kind that suctions to the table) worked great. I put it on the middle and lifted straight up.

Lisa Mac - Replica

For a quick 'n' dirty alternative "tool" for this step, take a look at IKEA's Stugvik suction hooks: they provide an excellent adjustable grip. Just used it to take apart an EMC2133. Cheers!

hadderakk - Replica

Suction cups usually available at Home Depot or Lowes, in the flooring section. (They're used to handle large ceramic & stone floor tiles.)

Griff in Fairbanks - Replica

Estrarre delicatamente il pannello di vetro dall'iMac.
  • Estrarre delicatamente il pannello di vetro dall'iMac.

  • Il pannello di vetro presenta diversi piedini di posizionamento lungo il perimetro. Per evitare di staccare i piedini dal pannello di vetro, fare attenzione a rimuoverlo solo tirando verso l'alto.

  • Pulire con attenzione la parte interna del pannello di vetro e l'LCD, poiché la polvere e le impronte digitali saranno sgradevolmente visibili durante l'accensione del display.

In order to avoid unnecessary smudges and what not I covered the LCD itself with some plastic wrap while doing the hard drive upgrade. When I reinstalled it all I needed to do was blow off a few dust particles.

robgendreau - Replica

While you are at it, it is worth cleaning out dust within the case to help with cooling - particularly around the fans and vents.

For the screen I used a lens cleaner from my camera bag. These have very fine fibers and won't leave detritus.

Mathew Hendry - Replica

Note that the front glass panel is quite light. When reassembling I found it impossible to get the LCD free of dust with the computer lying on its back. I had success with standing the computer up, tilting the LCD down as far as it goes, holding the glass panel upright in front of the computer (about 1 foot away), lightly spraying both the LCD and the back side of the glass panel with compressed air, and then attaching the glass panel (with the computer upright). It took me 5 tries before it was completely clean of dust once the front glass was on.

axel - Replica

Rimuovere le 12 viti seguenti, che fissano la mascherina anteriore al case posteriore:
  • Rimuovere le 12 viti seguenti, che fissano la mascherina anteriore al case posteriore:

    • Otto viti Torx T8 da 13 mm.

    • Quattro viti Torx T8 da 25 mm.

On the 24" EMC2134 there are 3 screw sizes: 6x13, 4x20 & 2x30mm, particular note should be made of their location.

john31 - Replica

Note for the less experienced.. the case is plastic and the metal coarse thread screws will easily cut a new thread in the hole if you don't line up the screw in the original thread. Do this a few times and the hole will be stripped and the screw no longer tightens.

TIP:- place the screw in the hole and rotate BACKWARDS/counter clockwise (for RH threads) until you hear/feel it click/drop into the original thread then tighten the screw down. rotate it a couple times to get the feel of things. If there is any significant resistance you probably don't have the original thread.

This trick also works on the fine metal thread screws and can help avoid cross threading them.

HIH

Richdave - Replica

On the 24 inch iMac Model A1225 EMC #2134, the two T8 Torx screws in the middle are the longer of the four total bottom 25 mm screws. Just a note for reassembly.

bhoffs - Replica

This step is not really explained here with pictures. But you can check this same step in another guide to help you : Installazione della mascherina anteriore nell'iMac Intel EMC 2266 da 20"

thibault - Replica

I'll echo Thibault's comment. This guide does not actually tell you when and/or how to remove the bezel! Click on the other guide he linked to see the photo and instructions.

steven - Replica

Make sure you're ram slot at the bottom is open to remove front frame bezel

edgain99 - Replica

I think you're missing this step: With the iMac lying on its back screen facing up, grasp the aluminum sides of the bezel and carefully pull it straight up. Then disconnect the microphone cable. Took me a while to figure it out.

Richard Cacciato - Replica

I found it helpful to use a few lids from spaghetti sauce jars to hold the different screws. I used a sharpie to mark the inside of the lid w/ location taken from or the step number from directions. Then I placed a small magnet under the lid to hold the screws inside the lid in case I accidentally jostle something on the table. Worked great! You can also use a magnetic knife bar to line up the lids in sequential for the project.

tom - Replica

MacBook Battery Fix Kits
Fix Kits Starting at $69.99
MacBook Battery Fix Kits
Starting at $69.99
Scollegare il connettore del cavo del microfono, rimuovendo il nastro secondo necessità.
  • Scollegare il connettore del cavo del microfono, rimuovendo il nastro secondo necessità.

  • Affinché la mascherina anteriore sia posizionata correttamente, verificare di aver inserito il connettore nello spazio vuoto accanto alla scheda della fotocamera.

I avoided this step by just flipping the housing over and having it lay flat on the table. The tape on mine was on really tight, and I risking ripping the wires out of the connector if I messed with it (I didn't have some really small scissors which might have helped removing it). I would suggest either securing the body of the iMac and the housing to the table you're working on, or somehow securing the housing to the body, so that it doesn't move around accidentally, since it's only hanging on by a very thin wire at that point.

robgendreau - Replica

Make sure you do not pull this apart by the wires. Have a firm grasp on the plastic parts. Do not force back together. It only goes back together one way. Also, it is crucial when placing the aluminum bezel back in place that this wire is out of the way. It often gets in the way and is easily damaged.

Kyle Freeman - Replica

CAUTION - To disconnect the cable, you'll need to support the bezel while you carefully extract slack microphone cable which is tightly tucked within the iMac. (I didn't have this guide's 'notes on' and missed robgendreau's warning - then inadvertently shifted the bezel and busted my microphone cable in this step.)

dagnew - Replica

Don't forget to pull the microphone cord out before you put the panel back on. Otherwise you will have to go back and remove screws to find that microphone cord

Melvin Hines - Replica

As robgendreau says, avoid this whole step by opening the bezel and laying it upside down above the iMac, still connected by the mic cord, just carefully. Then replace the battery, suck/blow out your dust, and carefully rotate the front bezel back over the iMac from where you removed it. No cord manipulation or damage at all!

recmsoj - Replica

Estrarre il connettore del sensore temperatura dell'LCD direttamente dal connettore sulla scheda logica. Se occorre, deviare il cavo del sensore temperatura dell'LCD dalla parte posteriore della scheda logica.
  • Estrarre il connettore del sensore temperatura dell'LCD direttamente dal connettore sulla scheda logica.

  • Se occorre, deviare il cavo del sensore temperatura dell'LCD dalla parte posteriore della scheda logica.

  • Quando rimuovi il pannello LCD, controlla la disposizione del cavo del controllo temperatura del display. Nel rimontare lo schermo, assicurati che questo cavo non blocchi una delle viti inferiori di fissaggio della cornice anteriore.

This was the most confusing step, because the video shows MJ just tilting the monitor open, and I had a ribbon cable hooked up to it. Finally figured out that the ribbon cable was connected to the LCD temp sensor cable, and it was neatly tucked under the adjacent fan. Had to pull it pretty hard to get it out from under the fan, and then could tilt the LCD. Instructions are not completely clear about this, only that you may have to reroute the cable around the motherboard.

d3nn151950 - Replica

I agree, there is no sign of how to remove the bezel (it took me several minutes to understand it was even the bezel that came off here) in these steps (in all the guides for this model, in fact). On step 4 says remove the LCD screws, and suddenly step 6 shows innards and fans etc - !! - What about showing the bezel being removed here - super confusing and not up to usual ifixit high standards.

hutchwilco - Replica

If you rush through the reassembly, it's very easy to miss reconnecting the LCD Temp Display cable. I just did it and one of the fans came on full-speed and stayed there through a new macOS install. Did a Google search and found mention of this symptom. At first I was thinking I switched one or more of the inverter cables but this guide shows that this is not a problem. Once I reviewed this step, the problem was obvious as was the solution. Thanks again, iFixit, for saving my nappy behind.

barryjaylevine - Replica

Rimuovere le due viti Torx T6 da 5,3 mm che fissano il cavo dati del display alla scheda logica.
  • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T6 da 5,3 mm che fissano il cavo dati del display alla scheda logica.

My Torx 6 driver purchased from ifixit didn't fit the screws well and potentially would strip them. Had to purchase a better driver to fit better in order to loosen these screws.

kakisback - Replica

reinstalling these screws requires extra care to be sure you don't drop it and loose it under any of the other components.

kakisback - Replica

Make sure not to drop the screws.

ulan - Replica

Removing these screws was the most difficult part of the whole job. They were tight and felt as if the heads were about to chew up. I had to press really hard and jerk the screwdriver counter clockwise to loosen them. Despite others' warnings, I managed to drop a screw when reinserting.

kevinp - Replica

The only tool I needed to buy was the T6 Star Bit - the first auto store I went to had it. These screws are tiny so you have to be careful not to drop them!

James Miles - Replica

When reinstalling these tiny screws, consider placing the iMac upright. That way when you (inevitably) drop these tiny screws, you don't lose them in the guts of the computer where they are likely to fall into a fan.

stown1211 - Replica

Yes, this step is very difficult. I finally used a magnet to magnetize the torx driver, and that helped immensely...however, that was AFTER I lost the right one inside the computer. You really only need one screw to reattach the monitor connector, however.

d3nn151950 - Replica

Argh! I dropped my right screw into the bowels of the iMac. I can't find it anywhere and am loath to leave it rattling around as well as to tear down the machine any further.

steven macfarlane - Replica

Well, I followed the instructions for right-speaker removal and optical drive fan removal and still couldn't find the right screw. I couldn't hear it rattle either so figured it was wedged somewhere. Using an inspection mirror and flashlight, I finally found it. It had fallen down and wedged between the PCB and the plastic housing (below the ports). I was able to slide it toward the right until it came to the void left by the right speaker where it fell out into my hand.

steven macfarlane -

It's true, these were super tight. I only had a T5 which worked on the first screw, but the second wouldn't budge. Ended up filing the tip off the T5 bit - presto! - instant T6.

marcintosh - Replica

I Think the real screw size is 3.5 mm T6 Torx, not 5.3 mm

raul - Replica

Dropped those little bastards like 2-3 times into the deeps of my iMac. The right one is really tricky. If you drop it: better get yourself very thin tweezers and gently shake your mac. :(

Popelnase - Replica

Note that just below where you are working is the PRAM battery. If you have never replaced this, now is a good time so you won't have to open the machine up again in the near future. The battery is a CR2032.

mattgauntt - Replica

Taking all the warnings into account about losing these tiny screws, during removal and replacement I held onto the screws tightly with a very fine needle nose tweezer. Fortunately I managed not to lose them either out or in. I highly recommend using a small gripper during this step.

recmsoj - Replica

This step together with step 8 can be avoided. Leave this cable alone. You will have plenty of space to lift the LCD and rest it against a wall or any other object. Again...

1) don't waste your time if you know what you are doing

2) don't complicate things and remove unecessary cables.

Scorps - Replica

This is true. There's plenty of space to work without taking the whole LCD out, either by resting it on your head, having someone hold it, or propping it on something. This makes steps 7, 8, and 10 unnecessary.

hillman -

While you have the case open this would be a good time to replace the PRAM battery and carefully clean the fan and interior of the case with Q-tips / compressed air.

John Fisk - Replica

These screws are Torx 7 - at least that was what

I used on them and got a prefect tight fit ... .

Patrik Albin - Replica

torx 6 didn't do it, needed torx 7

nielsdolieslager - Replica

Torx7 did NOT work for me. Torx6 did.

pdienstm - Replica

Utilizzare la linguetta nera per estrarre il connettore del cavo dati del display dalla scheda logica.
  • Utilizzare la linguetta nera per estrarre il connettore del cavo dati del display dalla scheda logica.

Aggiungi Commento

Rimuovere le otto viti Torx T8 da 12 mm che fissano il pannello del display al case posteriore. Sollevare il pannello del display dal bordo sinistro e ruotarlo verso il bordo destro dell'iMac.
  • Rimuovere le otto viti Torx T8 da 12 mm che fissano il pannello del display al case posteriore.

  • Sollevare il pannello del display dal bordo sinistro e ruotarlo verso il bordo destro dell'iMac.

I was able to disconnect the two connectors to the front easily. With those off, I just rotated the LCD out of the way to expose the hard drive. Again, make sure it's stabilized if you do this so that when you yank on something else you don't send it flying.

robgendreau - Replica

I did a HD replacement on my 24 inch iMac. It's basically the same, but it does not have disconnectable invertercables. Instead, there's just one cable that's can't be disconnected. It sits too tight to rotate the display to the degree that you can lean it against something, so the only way to get the job done was to call in an extra set of hands to hold the display while I took out the hard drive.

Marijn - Replica

On the 2134 model, I found that the LCD must be lifted from the RIGHT (not the left as per the 2133 guide) - the connector wires are covered in nylon housing and it's way easier just having someone hold the LCD vertical whilst you replace the HDD, unless you have small fingers and feel like disconnecting completely ...

simon - Replica

During reassembly, make sure that the data and temperature cables will reach their sockets before inserting the eight screws.

kevinp - Replica

Mentre il pannello del display è sollevato, scollegare i quattro cavi dell'inverter. Durante la reinstallazione, posizionare i quattro connettori dei cavi dell'inverter negli spazi vuoti fra i componenti collegati al pannello posteriore per garantire il corretto allineamento del pannello del display.
  • Mentre il pannello del display è sollevato, scollegare i quattro cavi dell'inverter.

  • Durante la reinstallazione, posizionare i quattro connettori dei cavi dell'inverter negli spazi vuoti fra i componenti collegati al pannello posteriore per garantire il corretto allineamento del pannello del display.

  • Durante il riassemblaggio, è possibile inserire i cavi dell'inverter nei rispettivi connettori femmina in qualsiasi ordine.

  • Se devi sostituire il disco fisso e hai un paio di mani supplementari, puoi accedere al disco e rimuoverlo senza scollegare nulla tranne i connettori della temperatura dell'LCD e quella del display come al passo precedente con l'LCD sollevato.

Make sure to not squeeze the inverter-cables between the superdrive and the display when putting the display back on !

epzzky - Replica

This was the only step different for my 2134 - it is just one cable that connects to the monitor - disconnect the monitor end rather than the motherboard side.

Jim Laredo - Replica

There is no need to discnnect the inverter cables if display is positioned against a wall or something of the sort. Make sure it doesn't tumble over !!!

info5825 - Replica

For 24" iMacs, a single power cable is attached on the left side of the screen. To remove the cable, lift the screen from the right side and rotate it to the left. Remove the black plastic protector on the back of the screen and disconnect the cable.

Matt Stichnoth - Replica

Make sure you squeeze the two ends of the inverter cable together firmly - if not you will get yellow areas on your screen. One of my cables had not quite been clicked together, and I had to unscrew everything all over again.

Philip - Replica

So does it matter which ones are connected to which?

That is, at each end there are two connectors (one pink/black the other light blue/dark blue on the "male" side). The "female side appear identical. Does it matter if the pink/black "male" one is connected to the wrong "female" one?

Mark Gibson - Replica

Mark, did you ever get an answer about the connectors?

Mike -

Agreed this is an unspecified issue and i'm surprised it's not covered? Did everyone else just guess?

kainatticus -

Managed to avoid this step just lifting the lcd panel and holding it with my... head ;)

Antonio Bernardini - Replica

I'm trying to find some information on replacing the power supply temperature sensor cable. Mine broke during removal of a bad power supply.

Mike Overholt - Replica

found out that taking the 2 inverter cables (top right corner underneath LCD) and mixing them will not work. I got beeping sound. So...you really need to mark the 2 white sockets with P (pink) and B (for light blue-gray color). Then everything will come out smoothly. Again... inserting the 2 inverter cable sets into the right socket DOES MATTER.

Scorps - Replica

Re: Scorps comment above - I got the “beeping” too. Does anyone know how to resolve it, i.e. identify which goes with which? Other than trying every combination?

mchlgrblsk - Replica

My screen is just Grey? anyone else have this happen?

Michael McGuire - Replica

After replacing iMac’s HDD with a new one I’ve got white screen with vertical black and bluish bands on the left side and two horizontal lines dividing the display into three equal parts (see the image). Any idea what that might be?

Andrey - Replica

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Altre 20 persone hanno completato questa guida.

Un ringraziamento speciale a questi traduttori:

100%

Questi traduttori ci stanno aiutando ad aggiustare il mondo! Vuoi partecipare?
Inizia a tradurre ›

Aggiungi Commento

Visualizza Statistiche:

Ultime 24 Ore: 11

Ultimi 7 Giorni: 44

Ultimi 30 Giorni: 171

Tutti i Tempi: 25,585