Introduzione

Use this guide to replace the dual microphone assembly.

This guide requires the removal of the heat sink and logic board. Don't forget to follow our thermal paste application guide before you reinstall your heat sink.

  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm Pentalobe screws

  • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

Carlos - Replica

Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

Fredrik -

Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

Alex Birkett - Replica

Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

addvariety -

the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

Edison - Replica

I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

marketing - Replica

is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

monsieurescargot - Replica

Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

Antoine Thornton - Replica

Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
  • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

  • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

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The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.
  • The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

  • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

wrbandllm - Replica

This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

addvariety - Replica

What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

Tommy Huang - Replica

If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
  • If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

jramsey21 - Replica

I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

salvatorebarbera -

Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

andrehedegaard -

Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

Steve - Replica

Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

Vadim Gribanov -

When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

Ethan Tarquin - Replica

Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

Caleb Steinborn -

+1

I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

Jonas Ehrs -

If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

Parth Gudhka - Replica

Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.
  • Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

sebasgaes - Replica

I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

LaymanLab - Replica

That’s a great idea!

David Lilliebridge - Replica

I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

dbrick - Replica

Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink. The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct. The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.
  • Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink.

  • The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws.

How should I reapply those little foam stickers? I guess not with normal glue.

bboy.sidekick - Replica

Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board:
  • Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board:

    • Four 2.6 mm T5 screws

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips #000 screw

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Remove the heat sink from the laptop. When reassembling your computer, follow our thermal paste application guide to reapply the thermal paste.

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Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

I found this to be the most difficult step. There is a need to get positioned so that you have the leverage to push hard enough at exactly the point shown in the photo without risking slipping and perhaps damaging the CPU nearby

Tony M - Replica

Peel the iSight camera cable off the fan housing to fold it out of the way. Peel the iSight camera cable off the fan housing to fold it out of the way.
  • Peel the iSight camera cable off the fan housing to fold it out of the way.

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Use the tip of a spudger to flip the tab on the fan's ZIF connector. Carefully pull the fan cable straight out of its socket. Carefully pull the fan cable straight out of its socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the tab on the fan's ZIF connector.

  • Carefully pull the fan cable straight out of its socket.

my cable was glued, had to be pryed up first.

maccentric - Replica

Remove the following screws securing the fan to the upper case:
  • Remove the following screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws

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Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case. Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case. Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case.
  • Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case.

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Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable bracket to the logic board. Remove the I/O board cable bracket.
  • Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable bracket to the logic board.

  • Remove the I/O board cable bracket.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board. Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

  • Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.

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Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way. To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.
  • Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way.

  • To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.

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Use the tip of a spudger to lift the right speaker connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to lift the right speaker connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the right speaker connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

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With the tip of a spudger, push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board. With the tip of a spudger, push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.
  • With the tip of a spudger, push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

Having a hard time at this step. Any suggestions? it's just not walking out.

Moki - Replica

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and bend it up out of the way of the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and bend it up out of the way of the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and bend it up out of the way of the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and bend it up out of the way of the logic board.

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Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board. Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board. Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

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Carefully pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board. Carefully pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Carefully pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

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Wedge the flat end of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it straight up out of its socket and fold it out of the way. Wedge the flat end of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it straight up out of its socket and fold it out of the way. Wedge the flat end of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it straight up out of its socket and fold it out of the way.
  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it straight up out of its socket and fold it out of the way.

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If necessary, peel back any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector. If necessary, peel back any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector.
  • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector.

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Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the microphone cable ZIF connector. Pull the microphone cable out of its socket on the logic board. Pull the microphone cable out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the microphone cable ZIF connector.

  • Pull the microphone cable out of its socket on the logic board.

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If necessary, peel back any tape covering the keyboard cable connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.
  • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the keyboard cable connector.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.

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Pull the keyboard cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board. Pull the keyboard cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board.
  • Pull the keyboard cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board.

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If necessary, peel back any tape covering the trackpad cable connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.
  • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the trackpad cable connector.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.

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Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

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Remove the five 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.
  • Remove the five 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

  • When reassembling, install all five screws loosely, position the logic board, and then tighten evenly.

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Lift the processor end of the logic board up slightly and pull it toward the fan recess to free the ports from the edge of the upper case. Remove the logic board. When reinstalling, make sure the keyboard, keyboard backlight, MagSafe, and microphone cables don't get trapped beneath the logic board.
  • Lift the processor end of the logic board up slightly and pull it toward the fan recess to free the ports from the edge of the upper case.

  • Remove the logic board.

  • When reinstalling, make sure the keyboard, keyboard backlight, MagSafe, and microphone cables don't get trapped beneath the logic board.

  • Also be sure to slide the ports' metal EMI fingers under the side of the case, not over.

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Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:
  • Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

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Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it toward the battery to remove it from the upper case. Be careful not to snag the speaker cable on the screw hole post in the side of the case. Be careful not to snag the speaker cable on the screw hole post in the side of the case.
  • Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it toward the battery to remove it from the upper case.

  • Be careful not to snag the speaker cable on the screw hole post in the side of the case.

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Remove the single 3.7 mm T5 Torx screw securing the case-edge of the battery contact board.
  • Remove the single 3.7 mm T5 Torx screw securing the case-edge of the battery contact board.

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Insert the tip of a spudger under the battery-side portion of the rubber microphone cable cover to detach the adhesive there. Insert the tip of a spudger under the battery-side portion of the rubber microphone cable cover to detach the adhesive there.
  • Insert the tip of a spudger under the battery-side portion of the rubber microphone cable cover to detach the adhesive there.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to wedge the battery contact board up slightly to allow room to extract the dual microphone assembly. Use the flat end of a spudger to wedge the battery contact board up slightly to allow room to extract the dual microphone assembly.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to wedge the battery contact board up slightly to allow room to extract the dual microphone assembly.

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Remove the rubber microphone cover with a set of tweezers Be careful not to snag the cover on the screw post in the case or on the battery contact board. Be careful not to snag the cover on the screw post in the case or on the battery contact board.
  • Remove the rubber microphone cover with a set of tweezers

  • Be careful not to snag the cover on the screw post in the case or on the battery contact board.

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Insert the tip of a spudger underneath the connector end of the microphone ribbon cable and slide it toward the screw post to free that half from the upper case. If the microphone is very resistant to prying, try heating it with an iOpener. Heating it will soften the adhesive and minimize the risk of tearing the cable. If the microphone is very resistant to prying, try heating it with an iOpener. Heating it will soften the adhesive and minimize the risk of tearing the cable.
  • Insert the tip of a spudger underneath the connector end of the microphone ribbon cable and slide it toward the screw post to free that half from the upper case.

  • If the microphone is very resistant to prying, try heating it with an iOpener. Heating it will soften the adhesive and minimize the risk of tearing the cable.

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Insert the tip of a spudger under the battery-side portion of the microphone ribbon cable and slide it toward the screw post to free it from the upper case. Insert the tip of a spudger under the battery-side portion of the microphone ribbon cable and slide it toward the screw post to free it from the upper case. Insert the tip of a spudger under the battery-side portion of the microphone ribbon cable and slide it toward the screw post to free it from the upper case.
  • Insert the tip of a spudger under the battery-side portion of the microphone ribbon cable and slide it toward the screw post to free it from the upper case.

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Pull the dual microphone cable assembly up and toward the logic board recess to remove it from the upper case. Be very careful not to snag the cable on the screw post in the case or the battery contact board.
  • Pull the dual microphone cable assembly up and toward the logic board recess to remove it from the upper case.

  • Be very careful not to snag the cable on the screw post in the case or the battery contact board.

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Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Sam Lionheart

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Very clear and concise, thank you.

T Col - Replica

Where can you get the replacement microphone? Do you have the part number?

Hanks Caddy - Replica

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