Introduzione

L'aggiunta di un secondo SSD nel computer portatile offre diversi vantaggi, fra cui velocità più elevate, maggiore spazio di archiviazione e la possibilità di installare nuovi software senza problemi. Utilizzare questa guida per eseguire l'installazione mediante un case per disco rigido nell'alloggiamento ottico. Alcuni alloggiamenti delle unità hanno un'altezza di 7 mm, mentre altri di 9,5 mm. In base alle dimensioni dell'alloggiamento dell'unità, potrebbe essere necessario un distanziatore per posizionare correttamente l'SSD.

Rimuovi le dieci viti seguenti:
  • Rimuovi le dieci viti seguenti:

    • Tre viti con testa a croce Phillips #00 da 14,4 mm

    • Tre viti con testa a croce Phillips #00 da 3,5 mm

    • Quattro viti con testa a croce Phillips #00 da 3,5 mm con bordino

Does void the warranty?

jfondeur - Replica

No, it does not void the warranty. More specifically: http://eshop.macsales.com/Search/display...

oakdragon12 - Replica

How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

gunes314 - Replica

You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

Also wondering how much weight I'd save by just removing. My drive is broken for ages, but I have not needed it in ages. The HD was already replaced by a cheap SSD (second best thing after upgrading to 8GB), so I'd appreciate losing some weight. I mean, the computer. Although I could lose some too... erm... well, anyway, I guess the lack of the DVD would not interfere with anything, right? Opinions?

Carlos Duarte do Nascimento - Replica

Apple has meticulously balanced the MacBook's weight from left to right, and removing the optical drive may off-balance the Mac.

Seji the veggie -

What so you think that a removing the optical drive which weighs less than a AA battery will unbalance a MBP making it unusable? LOL!

Unless you use the MBP on a high wire (an even then I have my doubts) you'd never notice the weight difference.

pmhparis -

The issue is not one of weight but an issue with the systems cooling and an opening which objects could enter. For a few grams of weight I don’t think its worth it! A better solution would be to swap out the heaver HD for a much lighter SSD, and getting all of the performance benefits of the faster drive as well!

While you might not think it the optical drive also acts as a stiffener so there is less twist in the case. This is because of the size of the hole for the DVD/CD’s so taking it out weakens the case design.

Dan -

I'm thinking you'd probably be OK losing the DVD drive without a problem. Just make sure the optical drive cable is secured or you might hear it rattling in there from time-to-time.

John Adam Wickliffe - Replica

Hey guys,

this website is amazing. I read it to guide me on fixing my mac book pro, but on the video, the girl gives a wrong information.. She says that is not possible replace just the keyboard... But I managed to replace only my keyboard. It is boring because I have to remove approximately 70 screws but it is possible. Thanks a lot! You guys helped me save about US$300 thats because in Brazil some technicians would charge me with that amount!

I posted some pictures on your facebook page..

renatumb - Replica

Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

Robert Wacker - Replica

Great tutorial. I found that using a Phillips #0 in lieu of the #00 worked much better.

kschmesk - Replica

I tried the PH #00 for the 10 screws that hold the bottom case and it's too big, instead PH #000 works perfectly. Are you sure this screws are #00?

Alex - Replica

The likely problem with your wifi is not the card but the antenna leads that go into the plastic clutch

. Ifixit don't have a guide to change this as it it includes the isight camera so the screen has to be disassembled which is fairly hard

I got round it by using the camera cable from the old set and cutting off the new one

brian whittle - Replica

Hello MacWorld,

Just want to say that this site is a great resource for repairing or upgrading your Mac. I had a bad SATA cable in my MacBook Pro and after ordering a new one from the "IFIXIT" site I received the cable within two days, replaced it and was up and running again in no time. Thanks IFIXIT for you help!

wer 10/5/15

tayseer999 - Replica

I have found that my MacBook Pro 13 Late 2011 has five shouldered screws and not four. I am not sure exactly where it goes but I have put it in the top left corner of the picture as it is the odd one out.

GotMac - Replica

Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

taylornya - Replica

on my device the #00 screwdriver was a bit too small. a #0 was the perfect one

Maximilian Klotz - Replica

I found with mine that the shouldered and un-shouldered screws were reversed (the three un-shouldered screws going where the orange colour indicates). Also, I found that the front four screws went in at an angle.

gilded yak - Replica

Are you sure the short screws are different? The set sold here just says “Seven 3 mm Phillips #00 screws.”

Jack - Replica

I have the same question. What is the difference between shouldered and not? So hard to see any difference…

Michael Wilkens -

I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

rodrigosady - Replica

I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

Michael Wilkens -

I used 3 eggcups to hold the screws ;>) They are very fiddly and easy to drop on floor so keep the MacBook away from the edge of the surface you are using to avoid accidentally dropping a screw off the edge of a table, etc.

Stephen Smith - Replica

A screw does not come out, how can I get it out? Many thanks in advance for your help

Wilder Torres - Replica

Since you’ll be removing many screws it’s best to plan ahead. I found it especially helpful to have a small plastic tray with about a dozen separate compartments to hold screws. As I removed screws I kept them in one compartment for each item removed. For example: The lower case removal involves the removal of ten screws. I kept them all in the first tray compartment and set the lid aside. Also, I put a post-it note identifying this compartment as “Lower case” and noted that the top right-most screws were the long ones. I continued with this methodology as a removed the next item, and the next, etc. Disassembly notes included for each compartment. This helped SIGNIFICANTLY as I was able to reassemble the Macbook easily by simply going from one compartment to the next (in reverse order). This guide is rated “Difficult” which it really isn’t when you plan ahead in this way. It saves time in the long run.

airshack - Replica

when putting the macbook pro back together, the middle screw on the right side (if the computer is upside down and you have the hinge furthest away from you) requires a bracket that was not included with my new upper case. i had to remove it from my old case and transfer it over - if you don’t do this, that screw will have nothing to attach to.

this was one of the many additional parts i needed to transfer from my old case to the new one that aren’t mentioned in this guide…i’m adding comments on each step to try to help others…i wish i had thought to take pictures.

Matt - Replica

It seems to me the yellow and orange screws are the same

Luca Giancarli - Replica

The screws used on all Retina models, as well as about everything Apple has made since the iPhone 4, uses “PENTALOBULAR” not Phillips screws. These look like a TORX driver, but it has 5 concave sides. I believe the size you want is a P4 or T4. (1.2mm).

Don Cely - Replica

Two screw types:

______________________________

Shouldered Unshouldered

xxxxxxx……….xxxxxxx

..xxxxx……..….…….x…….

…..x……..…...……….x…….

…..x…………....……..x…….

______________________________

El Crashitan - Replica

If you are following this guide to upgrade to a better drive and want to keep your system and data intact I highly recommend first following the guide to Clone an Existing Drive using the recommended free SuperDuper!. That process was a breeze and gives you confidence that the new drive will come up looking exactly the way it did when you started.

Patrick Langvardt - Replica

Usa le dita per rimuovere il case inferiore dal corpo del MacBook, in prossimità della presa d'aria. Rimuovi il case inferiore.
  • Usa le dita per rimuovere il case inferiore dal corpo del MacBook, in prossimità della presa d'aria.

  • Rimuovi il case inferiore.

If the black vent window that is attached to the back cover becomes loose what kind of glue should be used to attach it again, thermal paste or super glue?

Thanks for your help.

Mikell - Replica

bonjour cette truc ça marche au mac Brook pro Retina ou pas?

Shi Feng - Replica

Bonjour, alors cela va dépendre du modèle de MacBook Pro Retina concerné. Par exemple, si vous avez un 13 pouces, allez consulter cette page MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Repair et sélectionnez-y votre modèle. Les Retina 15 pouces se trouvent ici MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Repair. Sinon cet outil https://fr.ifixit.com/info/ID-your-Mac (pour l’instant seulement disponible en anglais) vous aide à identifier quel modèle vous avez et vous redirige vers la page de votre appareil, où vous trouverez le tutoriel correspondant à votre Retina. Bonne réparation !

Claire Rapp -

Merhaba, trackpad değişimi ve ayarlaması için tornavidaya ihtiyacım var, bu konuda yardımcı olabilir misiniz acaba? Ne tür bir tornavidaya ihtiyacım var ve nereden bulabilirim acaba?

Volkan Ogul - Replica

Usa l'estremità di uno spudger per rimuovere il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Potrebbe essere utile fare leva verso l'alto su entrambi i lati del connettore, per agevolarne l'estrazione.
  • Usa l'estremità di uno spudger per rimuovere il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

  • Potrebbe essere utile fare leva verso l'alto su entrambi i lati del connettore, per agevolarne l'estrazione.

Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

manodh - Replica

yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

khull -

Sooo the track pad is under the battery...you kind of have to remove it to get to the track pad.

stiknrudder -

This step is not really required. Apple does not recommend it.

Steven Layton - Replica

My Battery does not get recognized after i disconnected it, screw this site!

Diego Hernandes -

Did you properly ground yourself to the case before putting the spudger to the connector/logic board? Did you use a spudger or something else that is non conductive...or did you use a flat blade metal screw driver instead and compound your error by not grounding yourself before touching the logic board? All kinds of variables here but the bottom line is iFixit provided you a guide to fix your computer. Lots of others have followed this guide without trouble. Your battery issues are not their fault. They did say this guide was moderate difficulty...maybe it's just a little beyond your skill level. We should all know our limits!

stiknrudder -

Rather than be careful of the corners of the connector i would say don't use the spudger anywhere near the corners. While the corner looks like the obvious place to begin to pry it up from, it will break. Levering from the sides as the instructions suggest works well.

ausmkv - Replica

wonder why apple does not recommend it?!

Peter - Replica

I would recommend it, one careless short and the whole board is dead......

John - Replica

simply remove the battery rather than disconnecting the cable

toiu - Replica

What do you mean by "remove the battery"?

Anrothan -

Don't know what the deal is with the battery, but this IS a necessary step to keep from frying the logic Board if you accidentally touch something and short it out. I did this step every time during my troubleshooting and The battery was ALWAYS recognized by the system the next time I turned the MBP on. So be safe and don't fry your logic board in the process...

fasthans - Replica

Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

aekinaka - Replica

Installed/upgraded 4gb RAM to the system maximum 16gb and installed a 500 gb SSD today....DID NOT disconnect the battery cable....no issues at all when I powered back up. Then did a clean install of OSX Yosemite....next I used a time machine backup to put all my stuff back on the new HD. From start to finish it took about 4 hours. Macbook boots up right at 16 seconds now.

MacProUser - Replica

Easiest to use two spudgers, one on each short end, I found.

Simon Mundy - Replica

I took off th Airport /Bluetooth connectors but the number J3 connector is broken and so where can i buy J3 connecter for the Airport/bluetooth board

Zeerachen - Replica

Its a lot easier and safer (corner wise) to pry it using the flat side of the black spudger directly in front of the connector (don't go/use the corners) very easily you will be able to pry it further by inserting the spudger into a better and thicker plastic section of the connector

Ed Oliver - Replica

DON'T remove the Battery Cable, you risk the battery NOT being recognised when you start the Mac up again, or breaking it!! More to the point, APPLE DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS, so don't do it! I Installed 2x 8GB ( 16Gb total) of Crucial Mac RAM at 1333Mhz for my Late 2011 MacBook Pro, and it works beautifully, fully recognised and working well. I followed these instructions, but as Apple didnt recommend disconnecting the battery, I skipped this step, and as well as taking less time, nothing was damaged or broken, and everything works perfectly!!! Just make sure that you DISCHARGE ALL STATIC ELECTRICITY FROM YOUR HANDS, by touching a metal surface in the Mac. Apple recommends the edge of the Optical Disk Drive ( Big silver thing ) before touching any parts. Also, Take care removing the RAM out of its packet, DO NOT touch the Gold connectors, and hold the RAM by the edges. Finally, be PATIENT, GENTLE and it should all go perfectly. I managed it first time, with no technical ability, so follow my advice. Good luck!

Bradley Marks - Replica

Followed the tuto Step by step. Disconnected the battery (quite easily).

No problem when I lit the Mac on again. Battery's here, date's right.

nichoferr - Replica

Switch off your Mac and continue without disconnecting the battery. Don't know how it will switch on by itself.

Mfernandez - Replica

This comment made me think that disconnecting the battery was no point at all, because really - how would the computer be able to switch on by it self. So... I had my mac flipped around and was fiddling with the last part of the guide when I all of a sudden hear the start up sound! Don't know how and why it did. I turned it around with it guts open and guts hanging out. Screen was on. I forced it to shut down by keeping the power button down. Turned it back and first thing removed the battery cord.

Luckily the computer started up just like normal. But hearing that sound was just too scary.

BTW I had been cautious to de static myself multiple times.

wassberg -

Definitely do this step. It's an easy disconnect anyway and also easy to reconnect later.

Stephen Smith - Replica

I removed the battery cable for the repair. When I plugged in the MagSafe adapter after the repair, the Mac turned on automatically without pressing the power button and I was a bit worried, but after a restart everything worked fine again. I did have to reset date and time in Preferences. The battery was recognized OK.

Raymond Rinaldi - Replica

Okey, I skipped this battery disconnection part. Did not do anything like this before in my life, changing the cable was super easy!

Marijke de Vries - Replica

The official Apple guide to replacing the RAM says nothing about disconnecting the battery but it does recommend touching metal inside to discharge static. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201165

B T - Replica

I always do this when working on MacBooks (over ten years) and it never caused an issue. Don’t worry about this step as removal of the battery connector is simple. This particular connector is pretty much goof-proof as it won’t break. I’m fairly aggressive and just pop it off whenever I’m working on the Macbook Pro.

airshack - Replica

Hello!

Do I really need to use a spudger tool? Can’t I just use like two plectrums for guitar? xD

Myzcio - Replica

Piega leggermente il cavo della batteria per allontanarlo dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica, affinché non venga collegato accidentalmente durante le operazioni.
  • Piega leggermente il cavo della batteria per allontanarlo dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica, affinché non venga collegato accidentalmente durante le operazioni.

What are the changes of it broke when i bend it?, after i disconect it does not work anymore

Diego Hernandes - Replica

The guide worked perfectly, as it has in the past (our family has three Mid-2012 Macbook Pros that have been separately upgraded with RAM and SSD).

The PH00 screwdriver fit perfectly.

One note on getting the screws to seat easily and thread perfectly...always turn them gently a couple turns to the left (CCW or Anti-Clockwise) until you hear a small click. That's where the threads will grab. Works with any screw, but when threads are fine, this will help ensure that the screw is at the correct angle and will grab and seat perfectly.

Great guides. Thanks!

timgunkel - Replica

Got RAM in but only one slot is working and now I can't remove! The RAM won't pop up like before and tabs don't seem to do anything. Please advise.

Sal Ergrapes - Replica

I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

Stephen Smith - Replica

That's a good tip

Anrothan -

Followed the advice and right as I was installing the replacement fan , the socket broke right off the motherboard.

Ian Thal - Replica

One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

lelandjordon - Replica

does the battery connection need to be removed? I only ask as other videos etc have not shown this step.

Darren Rose - Replica

Utilizzare l'estremità piatta di un inseritore per scollegare il connettore del cavo piatto AirPort/Bluetooth dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica.
  • Utilizzare l'estremità piatta di un inseritore per scollegare il connettore del cavo piatto AirPort/Bluetooth dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica.

N.B! Thank you very much all you here on iFixit! Some IMPORTANT notes. Be very careful BEFORE prying the connectors up and down. They are very fragile and the picture could actually be seen as showing a bending loading in their weakest direction, AROUND its slender axis. The connector is slender and inserted on the logic board, so the gentle "walking" up and down should be done ALONG their slender direction and WITHOUT touching the adjacent connectors. If bending is done around its axis the soldering comes apart and the cable is done and gone. Just happened. These flat cables are one of the weakest design spots in my experience. They are a major time, money and geist consuming reason for malfunction like Wi-Fi connection problems, HDD, SSD not found internally but externally from USB issues et al being found on different forums. Thanks again and again.

Greg - Replica

Estrarre con attenzione il cavo della fotocamera fuori dal connettore sulla scheda logica.
  • Estrarre con attenzione il cavo della fotocamera fuori dal connettore sulla scheda logica.

  • Though not recommended by iFixit staff, some users opt to omit this step completely. For information on this, see the step comments.

  • Estrarre il cavo in senso parallelo alla superficie della scheda logica. Tirando verso l'alto si rischia di danneggiare la scheda logica o il cavo stesso.

"Carefully pull the camera cable out of its socket on the logic board."

I followed these instructions to the letter, heeding the warning to pull vertically.

The camera cable broke at the connector.

The connector was pretty tight in the socket. Had to use a tiny screw-driver to free it. There was no way simply pulling would have worked.

A quick google of "macbook pro camera cable broken" shows that this has happened to many other people, and been reported to ifixit. But no mention in the instructions. Disappointing.

The MBP no longer boots. The cable is soldered to the LCD, which must be replaced. $500?

Someone, PLEASE fix the instructions. It looks like many people have been hit by this.

Brian - Replica

Actually it says to pull parallel away from the board, so horizontally. It never said vertically and actually warns against pulling verticaly.

Technic Mender - Replica

I'd to disassemble my MBP two times because my SSD did not work properly in optibay. While doing it a second time, I omitted steps 6 and 8. It is really not necessary, but step 6 is really scary.

nicholas - Replica

Do you even need to do this?? I've seen guides where they just leave those on and slide the superdrive out from underneath that module..??

Philip - Replica

Yes, this is really no need. I left it there, and still can proceed.

maiyawmh -

I've replaced 4 dvd's with hdd's already, in different macbooks, so wasn't too fussed about #5. However; this time I broke the camera connector cable :(

The connector is stil in it's socket, and I can't get it out no matter what I try. My guess is that some of the glue that connects the socket to the logic board, got into the socket as well. Prying with a small screwdriver, pulling with a pair of tweezers... nothing works. And this mbp belongs to a friend who uses his camera a lot for skyping...

I hope we're still friends after I tell him.

The thing is; I think it might be possible to do the whole operation with that cable still in its sockets; if you pull the rest of the cable free of the fingers, you can probably fold it out of the way when you lift the dvd out.

puchelaar - Replica

This is Sooo Unnecessary!! don't do it!

grant reynolds - Replica

I actually found it necessary to do this step. If not done you can rip chord, if you read the wording carefully and do as it says it should not break.

Robert Wacker - Replica

After having initially skipped this step, I finally followed it. I couldn't find a way to move the airport / bluetooth assembly away otherwise, and in the end it's a pain to put the small screws back in. Didn't have any trouble unplugging the camera cable, but it is indeed scary because it looks pretty fragile.

I only skipped step 8, as it didn't seem necessary.

JoGersen - Replica

I also broke my camera cable!!! And I just realized that removing that lovely cable was not necessary for the following steps!!! Thank you!

I dont know how to fix this problem and I asked it in this question: How can I fix broken camera cable

Please, help...

Yusuf - Replica

I omitted this step successfully

Diego Posadas - Replica

I skipped this step, but did step 8.

There was no way I was doing this step -- just remember that the cable is still plugged in, and work VERY CAREFULLY.

Serah Merrick - Replica

totally unnecessary. You can remove optical drive easily without disconecting that cable

hukko - Replica

Technic Mender, he is talking about Step 11. It says upward. Most untouched MBP's have a piece of sticky foam over the right subwoofer connection to the logic board, so you can't see how it is really supposed to come out but that step says pull upward. Ripped my right subwoofer connection straight from the logic board. Thanks iFixit, Step 11 has an unnecessary line that costs me money. You pull it laterally, not up.

tsmith - Replica

I successfully skipped this step when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure. I also skipped steps 7, 8, and 11.

pauloau - Replica

I have a blog post on my experience of performing the upgrade with a simple diagram showing how to skip step 6, 7, 8 and 11. (http://www.ocyedwin.com/?p=190)

Aderic Adsisco - Replica

I skipped this step complete . There is space enough in order to manipulate stuff without unplugging theses cables.

Mfernandez - Replica

I tried to pull the cable, but it did not come off even with moderate force. So it stayed as it was, and I had no problems taking out the drive and putting in the new one.

Probably its best to skip this step.

cearnach - Replica

I can't remove this so I skip it. I also skip 7,8,11 with no problem, just do it slow and carefully remove any parts.

Pat Ach - Replica

I did this successfully, but I don't remember which way the contacts came out. Does the side with more gold face up or down?

naihtims64 - Replica

I also managed to skip steps 6, 7, 8, and 11. It is possible to get the superdrive out without disconnecting the camera, antenna, and subwoofer. However, obviously you have to be very, very careful.

Darren - Replica

Just done the job. *6 to 11 are strictly unnecessary*. You'd better be careful (a little bit, that's not hard at all) than taking the risk of all those tricky steps...

And you will gain a lot of time ;-)

XDjuj - Replica

Just did the replacement of Optidrive with my original HDD (which I had earlier replaced with a Samsung EVO 500 GB drive - using ifixit's method). I omitted steps 6,7,8 and 11. The upper left side screw of the OptiDrive is deeply placed - a magnetic screwdriver with a long thin shaft would be essential to remove and especially, to replace it.

arun - Replica

Spostare con attenzione il cavo piatto AirPort/Bluetooth affinché non sia d'intralcio mentre si rimuove il cavo della fotocamera dall'adesivo che lo fissa al subwoofer e alla staffa AirPort/Bluetooth. Rimuovere il cavo della fotocamera dalla parte inferiore dell'aletta di fissaggio presente nella staffa AirPort/Bluetooth.
  • Spostare con attenzione il cavo piatto AirPort/Bluetooth affinché non sia d'intralcio mentre si rimuove il cavo della fotocamera dall'adesivo che lo fissa al subwoofer e alla staffa AirPort/Bluetooth.

  • Rimuovere il cavo della fotocamera dalla parte inferiore dell'aletta di fissaggio presente nella staffa AirPort/Bluetooth.

This step is unnecessary, as is step 8. You can get the SuperDrive out and put the caddy in without pulling the cable out.

Steve - Replica

The disk utility sytem recognises my new HD however when I try to do the recovery setup I receive an error message.

daniel001 - Replica

I successfully skipped this step when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure. I also skipped steps 6, 8, and 11.

pauloau - Replica

Mediante la punta di un inseritore, scollegare con attenzione il connettore dell'antenna più vicino alla scheda logica dal rispettivo connettore femmina sulla scheda AirPort/Bluetooth. Rimuovere il cavo dell'antenna dalla parte inferiore dell'aletta di fissaggio presente nella staffa AirPort/Bluetooth.
  • Mediante la punta di un inseritore, scollegare con attenzione il connettore dell'antenna più vicino alla scheda logica dal rispettivo connettore femmina sulla scheda AirPort/Bluetooth.

  • Rimuovere il cavo dell'antenna dalla parte inferiore dell'aletta di fissaggio presente nella staffa AirPort/Bluetooth.

I omitted this step too. It's not necessary.

Diego Posadas - Replica

I successfully skipped this step when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure. I also skipped steps 6, 7, and 11.

pauloau - Replica

Based on the advice above, I tried to skip this step. Unfortunately, the way the wire wraps around the plastic caused it to break underneath when I lifted the optical drive out, and now I have another broken part.

lisaquatmann - Replica

Yu can easily skip the step, just make sure you take care when removing/put away the AirPort/BT assembly in the next step, be gentle.

Lucian Onea - Replica

Rimuovere le cinque viti seguenti:
  • Rimuovere le cinque viti seguenti:

    • Due viti con testa a croce da 10,3 mm

    • Due viti con testa a croce da 3,1 mm

    • Una vite con testa a croce da 5 mm

Is all of these screws can be removed by phillips #00 screwdriver? I can't remove left 10.3 screw and bottom 3.1 screw. Another screws can be removed easily… My macbook pro is 13-inch, Late 2011. What can be wrong?

Ilya - Replica

Note the position of the little grounding rings when removing the red (10mm) screws. You'll have to make sure to re-seat them when reassembling!

James - Replica

You are so right about making sure to put back the two metal rings when you screw back the two (red) 10.3mm screws. I missed putting back one of the rings and read your comment after I had installed the drive and closed the macbook. Everything was working fine, but I went back to open it an leave it just as it was, with both metal (one with a plastic/cloth material around it) plates/rings attached properly. So it is very important to make sure you put those two 10.3 mm screws back with the plates/rings that they hold, exactly as they were before you put it apart.

pachis2 -

I think you should remark when re-assembling the machine, you should pay attention to the metal clip in Step 9, the upper left screw position, it's easy to miss when assembling, because there are so many wires, and it may be very easy forgetting putting the metal clip back in place.

Mac - Replica

No idea how I'm supposed to put back the "grounding rings". Anybody?

Sarge Izzard - Replica

As far as the grounding ring goes, it slips back over the screw hole, be patient and gentle. You may have to finagle the airport board under it first and then lay the board flat and reattach the subwoofer. I will see if I can add a pic in the near future. But that the best way to describe it.

Robert Wacker - Replica

Another comment on step nine I have is about the subwoofer. In my case the screw hole that is for the "One 5 mm Phillips screw" (its currently circled in yellow) was broken [Mind you I have never dropped this computer so it came that way from apple. So be carful, it may be fragile and need some repair. Apple really needs to have better quality control on parts like this .(also they won't care that it was that way, they didn't like that I opened the computer, so even though its their fault, I should never have known and therefore they shouldn't be held responsible in their mind.) This may not void warranty as an over all upgrade, but any parts 'broken' or in my case 'found broken' during the fix are not covered any longer. So just be aware of this possible defect. Happy fixing.

Robert Wacker - Replica

No need to unscrew the 2 orange-marked 3,1mm screws - they just keep the two black plastic pieces together. In the contrary, unscrewing these makes the job more wobbly.

de757 - Replica

I removed all the screws in this step with the PH0

casse89 - Replica

i managed to strip two of the 3 #00 Phillips screws on this step, so im going to try and explain how i removed them.

i got a ratchet that is about 5" long, and a 1/4" socket that fit the bits in the 54 bit driver kit

there are all of the parts that you need in that kit to connect it to the ratchet

with this tool of torque i dropped down a size and use the #000 Phillips bit

i pressed good and hard, and watched the head. if it didnt turn i pressed harder

one screw was the worst and the #000 didnt work on it, just stripped it further

so i threw the j000 on the end and gave it a go

the shaper point on the j000 seemed to do the job

i was on the verge of JB Welding bits to them and trying that

but i didnt need to

allen - Replica

I did not removed the orange screws. I also successfully skipped steps 6, 7, 8, and 11. when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure.

pauloau - Replica

This is the most difficult step while resembling. Take special care of the 2 10.3 Phillips screws tabs positions in order to resemble as original.

Mfernandez - Replica

You don't have to remove orange screws but remove them make you easily move the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly.

Pat Ach - Replica

If you remove the orange screws (I did), note that the top one is under the ribbon. When screwing it back in, you have to carefully bend the ribbon back to get the screw underneath. Do not impinge on the ribbon when screwing it back in.

Darren - Replica

After completing this step during reassembly, it may help to loosen the screw just right of the rightmost red 10.3 mm screw. Then, make sure the metal plate attached to that screw fits inside the small cut-away in the outer body. I tends to run just over it, causing problems later when screwing the lower case back onto the computer.

Floris - Replica

Tirare il gruppo AirPort/Bluetooth e il subwoofer verso l'alto, in prossimità del centro della parte laterale dell'unità ottica, finché non ci sia sufficiente spazio fra i due. Allontanare il gruppo AirPort/Bluetooth e il subwoofer dalla parte superiore dell'unità ottica.
  • Tirare il gruppo AirPort/Bluetooth e il subwoofer verso l'alto, in prossimità del centro della parte laterale dell'unità ottica, finché non ci sia sufficiente spazio fra i due.

  • Allontanare il gruppo AirPort/Bluetooth e il subwoofer dalla parte superiore dell'unità ottica.

The left part in the picture (the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly) is held down under a plastic tab that sticks out a tiny amount. Thus, it needs to be pulled very slightly towards the camera module in order to be able to lift out.

Darren - Replica

Estrarre il cavo dell'altoparlante destro/subwoofer dalla parte inferiore dell'aletta di fissaggio in prossimità della parte laterale dell'unità ottica. Tirare il cavo dell'altoparlante destro/subwoofer verso l'alto per scollegarlo dalla scheda logica.
  • Estrarre il cavo dell'altoparlante destro/subwoofer dalla parte inferiore dell'aletta di fissaggio in prossimità della parte laterale dell'unità ottica.

  • Tirare il cavo dell'altoparlante destro/subwoofer verso l'alto per scollegarlo dalla scheda logica.

This step was also unnecessary. You can do the whole operation while leaving the subwoofer cable in place.

Steve - Replica

I removed it and after reassemble it looks like the speaker has no bass.

Rafael Carvalho - Replica

It also happened to me :( Did you solve it out?

Meenchul Kim -

I successfully skipped this step when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure. I also skipped steps 6, 7, and 8.

pauloau - Replica

I skipped the step about disconnecting the speaker cable. No problem.

Raymond Rinaldi - Replica

Skipped, no problem

Lucian Onea - Replica

My wires all slipped out during removal. This should be fun to fix. Be careful.

ColbyAndrew - Replica

I broke the speaker cable from the board

can I fix that ??????

Martin Ruiz - Replica

Utilizzare l'estremità piatta di un inseritore per scollegare il connettore del cavo del disco rigido dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica.
  • Utilizzare l'estremità piatta di un inseritore per scollegare il connettore del cavo del disco rigido dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica.

  • Piegare il connettore del cavo del disco rigido allontanandolo da quest'ultimo.

N.B! Thank you very much all you here on iFixit! Some IMPORTANT notes. Be very careful BEFORE prying the connectors up and down. They are very fragile and the picture could actually be seen as showing a bending loading in their weakest direction, AROUND its slender axis. The connector is slender and inserted on the logic board, so the gentle "walking" up and down should be done ALONG their slender direction and WITHOUT touching the adjacent connectors. If bending is done around its axis the soldering comes apart and the cable is done and gone. Just happened. These flat cables are one of the weakest design spots in my experience. They are a major time, money and geist consuming reason for malfunction like Wi-Fi connection problems, HDD, SSD not found internally but externally from USB issues et al being found on different forums. Thanks again and again.

Greg - Replica

Utilizzare l'estremità piatta di un inseritore per scollegare il connettore dell'unità ottica dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica.
  • Utilizzare l'estremità piatta di un inseritore per scollegare il connettore dell'unità ottica dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica.

N.B! Thank you very much all you here on iFixit! Some IMPORTANT notes. Be very careful BEFORE prying the connectors up and down. They are very fragile and the picture could actually be seen as showing a bending loading in their weakest direction, AROUND its slender axis. The connector is slender and inserted on the logic board, so the gentle "walking" up and down should be done ALONG their slender direction and WITHOUT touching the adjacent connectors. If bending is done around its axis the soldering comes apart and the cable is done and gone. Just happened. These flat cables are one of the weakest design spots in my experience. They are a major time, money and geist consuming reason for malfunction like Wi-Fi connection problems, HDD, SSD not found internally but externally from USB issues et al being found on different forums. Thanks again and again.

Greg - Replica

Rimuovere le tre viti con testa a croce da 2,7 mm che fissano l'unità ottica al case superiore.
  • Rimuovere le tre viti con testa a croce da 2,7 mm che fissano l'unità ottica al case superiore.

The two screws at the left are stuck. Anyone having this problem or know how to remove them? I used a Phillips #00 as stated and it doesn't work.

maximejobidon - Replica

I had the same issue. I got to Step 14 with no problems and then stripped the bottom left screw head! I was able to get it out with the help of a rubber band. You lay a section of the rubber band across the stripped screw, place your screwdriver on the screw pinching the rubber band. Then place a decent amount of force to engage the screw as you turn. Worked like a charm for me! Also, if you bought the ifixit optical bay hard drive enclosure they included two of those screws in the bag of screws (at least they did in mine).

andrewsimpsonx -

I had to drill mine. I cannot for the life of me understand how those got to be so tight or so easily stripped. The is no reason for either. Both mine stripped like a hot knife through butter.

I had to drill mine out. Not that hard with even the crappiest of drill bits. One I had to drill completely out, although honestly I just got the head off and left it. The drive bay replacement I got only had a place for two screws anyways. The other came out as expected, one I got enough into the head I was able to reverse directions and it came out.

I also did this without removing the camera cable and other items, just moved things out of the way. I took one tiny pull on the camera cable and knew better than to bother. You should be able to easily manage the items out of the way without causing any damage. Also, if you can only get one screw in, just make it one of the left screws. The unibody setup and placement of other items make it so that no matter what the drive is secure no matter what.

scottmilliken -

I'm having the exact same issue here. Left two screws are in there really tight. I got the top one out with the rubber band trick, but no dice with the bottom one.

Zachary Tatom - Replica

Same Problem one of the screws wont come out. I think it is stripped . What should I do now ?

binualexander - Replica

I stripped mine as well. Anyone know where I can buy these screws for cheap?

wyatt jones - Replica

As complained, the left bottom one was also annoying me, stripped out. If it is moderately stripped, then the rubber band would be the best answer as guided by andrewsimpsonx. The screw is tiny and shallow, so all you need is just one very hard pressing the screw, pinching the rubber band.

By the way, I was doing this to lighten my laptop, but note that it is not that affecting :(.

Meenchul Kim - Replica

can i reuse this optical drive again

justcause3 - Replica

Sure you can. Use it in anything. Stick it in a USB enclosure and carry it.

scottmilliken -

As complained, I'm stuck at step 14, because of one loisy screw... I've tried the rubber band trick, but it does not work with my screw ( bottom left one). Now the screw is also completely stripped, because of the rubber band trick. Does anyone have any recommendations, how to get the screw out ?

Rocky De Wiest - Replica

Well, that was a crock. I managed to get all the way to the end, didnt have to remove my camera cable, and the two last screws stripped out easier than a hot knife through butter.

I tried the rubber band trick, nothing on either one. Guess it will go to the drill.

scottmilliken -

Because I skipped steps 6, 7, 8, and 11 when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure) I found it specially difficult to put the top right screw back in place. It kept falling below the enclosure. I needed to remove the enclosure two times, before I was able to put it back.

pauloau - Replica

Basically i had to remove the optical drive by leaving the two left screw's there and snapping the whole thing, it was not the best solution but it worked, the two screws would't come out :)

manelrodrigues19 - Replica

iFixit has a guide on How to Remove a Stripped Screw: Wie man eine durchgedrehte Schraube entfernt

Stripped Screw - Replica

I had the upper left screw stuck and a bit stripped. What worked for me was removing the optical bay as much as I could (possible since 2/3 screws were out) and wiggle it around the last screw. The last screw came off really easily after.

Julian Honma - Replica

In my MacBook Pro (15-inch, Mid 2012)

MBP 15.4/2.3/2X2GB/500/SD/GLSY

Part Number: MD103LL/A

the 3 screws in this step are hex screws

Ray F - Replica

I was about to pull and break the optical drive because the two screws were very tight. On a last effort, I pressed down really hard the screwdriver and used pliers to twist it. It worked.

Arturo Álvarez - Replica

Can’t secure the hard drive holder to those two left screw placements. I was able to get them out without any problem - but the dual hard drive holder piece doesn’t have the right dimensions for me to re-secure the part to the upper part of the case. Basically, the head of the screw is “too wide”, and cannot be forced past the side of the drive enclosure. Will be sending pictures to iFixit, as this needs to be fixed. Right now, I’ve got an empty hard drive enclosure (since the SSDs are out of stock, and I had a stuck CD in the optical drive that was really causing a lot of slow-downs and grinding noises) just sort of sitting in there. Figured it was a bad idea to leave a huge gaping space.

Spencer Wen - Replica

Tirare l'unità ottica verso l'alto, dal bordo più vicino al display e rimuoverlo dal case superiore.
  • Tirare l'unità ottica verso l'alto, dal bordo più vicino al display e rimuoverlo dal case superiore.

Because I skipped steps 6, 7, 8, and 11. when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure, I found it easier to remove the enclosure by lift the side close to the battery and main HD and pulling it towards myself (towards main HD and battery).

pauloau - Replica

Did the same, also because i skipped those steps. It worked, you just have to remove it gently.

Lucian Onea -

Estrarre il cavo dell'unità ottica da quest'ultima. Tirare il connettore, ma non dal cavo stesso.
  • Estrarre il cavo dell'unità ottica da quest'ultima.

  • Tirare il connettore, ma non dal cavo stesso.

  • Resta l'unità ottica.

Does anyone have a problem that the cd/DVD won't fit in their SuperDrive once reinstalled? I am unable to fit a cd in, as well as eject any cd as well.

Jonathon Derr - Replica

Same problem here. I have to force it and it doesn't spit it back out.

ryanb -

what capacity of hard disk we can use once we remove Optical Drive 500GB, 1TB or 2TB

Ambrish Daga - Replica

Rimuovere il posizionatore di plastica dal case del disco rigido dell'alloggiamento ottico, premendo una delle clip poste lateralmente e sollevandolo dal case. Rimuovere il posizionatore di plastica dal case del disco rigido dell'alloggiamento ottico, premendo una delle clip poste lateralmente e sollevandolo dal case.
  • Rimuovere il posizionatore di plastica dal case del disco rigido dell'alloggiamento ottico, premendo una delle clip poste lateralmente e sollevandolo dal case.

The bay and dvd drive cable at iFixit is $40.00 (Unibody Laptop Dual Drive)

But for $10 more you can get an external casing that will protect your super drive form MCE (http://store.mcetech.com/Merchant2/merch...) A total of $50 dollars. It is what I used and works great and looks pretty and is guaranteed to protect your superdrive. MCE also gives you a disk with software to patch the DVD Player to work with external dvd drives. So For an extra $10 dollars you get better software functionality and a case for your super drive. It works great.

Robert Wacker - Replica

Robert, do you by chance also know where to buy an external drive case to make the old hard disk an external portable hard disk ?

Nina Nokia -

Verificare che i connettori del disco rigido siano rivolti verso il basso prima di posizionarlo nel case. Posizionare il disco rigido delicatamente nell'apposito slot del case. Tenendo saldamente il case in posizione con una mano, premere il disco rigido nei connettori del case con l'altra.
  • Verificare che i connettori del disco rigido siano rivolti verso il basso prima di posizionarlo nel case.

  • Posizionare il disco rigido delicatamente nell'apposito slot del case.

  • Tenendo saldamente il case in posizione con una mano, premere il disco rigido nei connettori del case con l'altra.

It is not a good idea to put fast SSDs into the optibay. System tries to negotiate at 6 Gbit, but it fails; disk is recognized but it couldn't even be formatted. I've waisted a lot of time to find a reason. After swapping SSD with original mac's HD both work properly, one at 6, another at 3 Gbit

nicholas - Replica

Good to know, thanks!

zondervon -

No problems here with a Samsung EVO in the optical bay. Only downside that is not really fast (80-90 mb/s) but amazing performances on booting time, shut off and opening programs.

Mike - Replica

I have to withdraw my comment. It is NOT a good idea to put a SATAIII SSD in the optical bay. It gives random freezes. Swapping it with a HD is indeed better. Better read/writes too. Only downside is that SMS won't work on the optical bay so treat your baby with care. Also Sleep issues might occur when placing a HD in the optical bay (a total freezing system). I already wasted a HD that was in the optical bay.

Mike - Replica

I've replaced the optibay with a samsung 840 pro but can't format it nor copy files (a few files work) to it. Do you suggest putting the HDD in the optibay instead? Did you clone the HDD to the SSD before swapping them? Will my Mac boot from the HDD the first time I boot even though it's in the optibay? I would really appreciate an answer, I've spent too many hours trying to figure it out!

Carl - Replica

Also had this same problem. Tried and failed a Samsung firmware upgrade. Ended up send drive back to Amazon.

Andrew -

Okay it seems like some models of MacBook Pro have issues with a fast (6Gbit/s) SSD in the optical bay. Even though my Mac says it offers 6Gbit on both bays it simply didn't work in the optical bay. So I switched places between the two drives and everything seems to work. My Mac booted from the old HDD in optical bay automatically and then I cloned it afterwards and changed the startup disk to the new one. As said before, don't put a fast SSD in the optical bay!

Carl - Replica

Hello Carl. What have you done after switching places between the two drives? Can you explain it with more details please? I have the HDD in the hard drive place, and an SSD in the optibay, and I have a lot of freeze / beachball. Thanks.

danielsam55 -

I'm on a Macbook pro 13" Late 2011.

danielsam55 -

I have the startup set to the SSD in the optibay.

danielsam55 -

I've already done it. switch the hard drives and reboot, that's all. Working without beachballs XD

danielsam55 -

My understanding is that SSDs will work (at 6Gbps) in the optical bay of late-2011 13" MBP models but not in late-2011 15" or 17" models and not in earlier 13" models. Are those of you reporting problems installing on late-2011 13" models (MD313LL/A [2.4Ghz] or MD314LL/A [2.8 GHz])?

Steve - Replica

I'm experiencing the same issues with the HDDs in the optical bay. I've tried multiple drives (WD caviar blue 3G and a Seagate 6G) with no luck thus far. I replaced the SATA cable and that didn't help with either drive. My SSD still works fine in the main bay but I would like the extra storage.

For those of you who got the HDD in the optical bay working, which HDD (brand and model) did you use?

My MBP is a Late 2011 15" (8.2)

woestmab - Replica

My understanding is that SSD in the optibay for 2011 MBPs will only work on the late-2011 13" model (not the 15" or 17"). I can confirm that it works in my late-2011 13" MBP. I have a Samsung EVO 500GB in my optibay (HGST 1TB in the hard drive bay) with no problems at all: negotiated link speed of 6Gbits for both drives and not beach balls or other slowdowns.

Steve -

I'm not trying to put an SSD in the optical bay. As I said, I've tried multiple HDDs but none of them seem to work. I know that it's possible to put an HDD in the optical bay because I bought the computer with one in it but it seems that none are recognized. I have tried multiple brands and speeds with no luck. I would like to know which specific model of HDD works in the late 2011 15" optical bay.

Thanks

woestmab -

Many people have this problem and they all had the 2011 MBP model. The SATA controllers are both 6Gb/s on optic drive and HDD from 2012 (mid 2012 anyway). And of course we're talking about the non-retina. The last non-retina came out mid 2012.

maniajami - Replica

I just installed a Crucial M200 6 GB/s ssd in a 2012 15" Macbook Pro, working without issues. It seems the 2011 models are problematic.

Martin G - Replica

Whats the size of this caddy?

Looks like no one has any clue. I can see following sizes:

12.7mm universal

12.7mm unibody

9.5mm universal

9.5mm unibody

I have a macbook pro mid 2012 non retina

saran3h.bansal - Replica

Una volta agganciato il disco rigido, reinserire il posizionatore di plastica tenendo il disco premuto contro la parte inferiore del case. Una volta agganciato il disco rigido, reinserire il posizionatore di plastica tenendo il disco premuto contro la parte inferiore del case.
  • Una volta agganciato il disco rigido, reinserire il posizionatore di plastica tenendo il disco premuto contro la parte inferiore del case.

Make sure you have removed the 2 screws at the end of your super driver unit and move it to your NewHD bay with the metal piece eye loop.

Kamiiyu - Replica

Normally with the HD enclosure there come a set of screws. use these to screw down the HD in the enclosure since you need to flip it up side down to reinstall it into the MBP

Bart - Replica

Here they picture Crucial as their choice, you can also find some great options at Samsung (it is what I installed and it works just as good if not better than the crucial I installed in my wife's iMac. here is their site http://www.samsung.com/us/computer/solid...

Its just another great option. Also when installing SSDs make sure to enable TRIM support (crashes can and probably will occur if you don't) TRIM enabler is available free and the pro version is $10 http://www.cindori.org/software/trimenab... It is the easiest solution for this issue.

Robert Wacker - Replica

Fissare l'unità al case con due viti con testa a croce n. 1. Fissare l'unità al case con due viti con testa a croce n. 1.
  • Fissare l'unità al case con due viti con testa a croce n. 1.

With the particular drive bay adaptor I used, these attachment screws were already fitted to the adaptor but were found at the sides, not underneath. Indeed, the adaptor had no screw holes on the underside.

jjsanderson - Replica

At first I couldn't get my machine to even turn on - thought it was the battery connector, but in the end I just had to reset the SMC. (http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964 - see "Resetting the SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own").

mainframe - Replica

Collegare la staffa dell'unità ottica al nuovo case mediante due viti con testa a croce n. 0.
  • Collegare la staffa dell'unità ottica al nuovo case mediante due viti con testa a croce n. 0.

  • Ricollegare tutti i cavi rimossi dall'unità ottica originale nel case dell'alloggiamento ottico.

I have the drive installed with this bay, but the drive does not appear in the Disk Utility. I see a 'Nvidia MCP79 AHCI' in the system information, but no drive listed with it. Is there some special driver needed to get the MCP to see the drive?

toddfletcher - Replica

Replaced the optical with hdd, as well as replaced the hard drive with an ssd. Now I get the circle with a line through it. But, when I hold the option key down, it gives me both hard drives, PLUS, the thumb drive I have in the USB port with a Mountain Lion installer. It even shows the recovery disks, but gives me the circle with the line when I choose one. Any help is appreciated.

claude - Replica

Mate,

My mbp shipped with OS 10.8, and I had upgraded twice to 10.10

I've a 10.7 USB which upgraded my old MBP.

My plan today was to boot with my new ssd, my time machine back up and the Lion usb plugged in.

I would then click on the Lion usb, and tell it to put the OS and time machine back up on the ssd.

So I help down ALT and when it started it gave me the options of the usual Mac internal or the Lion USB.

I clicked Lion, but instead of taking me to the install options (Disk utility, restore from time machine etc etc) it gave me that grey circle with a diagonal line through it. The no entry sign - grey on grey - that I think you have.

Some googling said that it is because I was trying to usb a 10.7 install on a MBP that shipped 10.8

You can't go back, apparently.

So if any of the OSs are older than the mac you got, you will get this error. The grey in grey no entry.

I just cloned my HDD to my ssd (Carbon copy cloner free 30 day trial) using an external stat-usb3 wire and all is good.

Rory -

it does not recognize the hard drive in the enclosure, what should i do?

elvin00 - Replica

simple question, how do I use the removed drive to play a DVD? Why don't I just use digital media...yadayada...I know. I'm currently in the hospital, did this drive swap for busy work. The littles want to watch an old DVD and I can't solve the issue.

gator6 - Replica

This will give you instructions on how to get your DVD player to work in an external enclosure: http://macenstein.com/default/2011/07/ho...

Steve -

I have a 17" Macbook Pro6,1 unibody with an Intel Core i5, 2.53GHz. I was successful installing a 250GB SSD in the DVD bay, and I'm able to boot from it. I did this by first installing OS X 10.9.4 on the SSD mounted into an external HD case, testing the system to see if it would boot up into the SSD, then installing the SSD and carrier in the DVD drive bay. The system now boots up from the SSD with no problems. If you are having installation problems, I recommend trying this method.

roger hall - Replica

This is really for step 23: reassembly

You can not get the orginal screws back in to hold the new optical drive replacement in place because there is a black plastic filler running along the front edge of the part. There is no place for the screw head to go. I had to remove some of the plastic to get the machine reassembled. Whoever tested this overlooked what I think is a major problem. How many macbook pros are out there with only one (maybe two if you're lucky) screw holding this thing in place?

I got extra screws and have no idea why. The bits included in the kit are poor and don't work on most of the screws. I had to use my own tools instead.

eetech - Replica

Hi,

I'm using a 13' MBP mid 2010 and I just swapped my HDD for a SSD. Al works perfectly fine!

So i bought the unibody laptop dual drive (from iFixit) and replaced the optical drive for the original HDD from my MBP. The installation with this guide went perfectly, however, the HDD is not recognized in disk utility.

I put the old HDD back on the original HDD bay, the HDD boots and works. I placed back the optical drive in the optical bay, also works. But when i put the HDD in the unibody laptop dual drive (iFixit), it is not recognized via the USB-port(however, the HDD starts spinning) or when installed in the optical bay.

So i think there is a software issue where my MBP does not recognize a HDD in the optical bay. Is there a way to force the OS to look for storage/HDD via the optical bay STATA cable?

All help is welcome!

Thanks,

Leon

Leon - Replica

Leon: did you fix your issue? I'm facing the same problem.

Rafael Borges -

No, afraid not..

Leon -

also having the same problem, not recognizing second hdd

cmaizan -

Same here: installed original hdd in optical bay and it won't mount. Tried it using the sata cable on different computer, and the drive spins, but doesn't mount either. Would love to get a fix (or at least an explanation) for this. The whole point was to add extra storage, but so far, no dice.

Simon Abrams -

Did you ever find a solution?

I installed mine, but the ssd I'm using was a bootable usb running Yosemite, and now that I plugged it in, I'm getting a circle with the slash through it when I try to boot to it, and I can't unmount it or reformat it from the recovery Disk Utility or in Mountain Lion on the stock hdd still inside.

drguttridge -

Same issue here unfortunately... new SSD in primary slot is recognized fine and allowed me to install OS X with no issues from USB. However, both during the install when booting from USB and post-install within the full El Capitan OS, I simply do not see any '2nd' hard drive in the system - for the record I just reused the same 500GB HDD that came with my MBP; and I ran the exhaustive System Profiler tests prior to doing any work to ensure I'd have no HW issues/surprises. Sure enough,. I can hear the mechanical drive churning as the power runs to it, so I know it's hooked up okay. For some reason the drive just isn't being recognized by the Mac OS. Hoping someone can help me resolve this so I don't feel bad about spending the [extra] money on the iFixit enclosure system vs. one of the cheaper alternatives I found online, sigh... Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!

Brian M -

Figured I'd reply to my own message just above for those interested or following my situation. The 'churning' I heard was actually the left fan inside the system, which I managed to disassemble so I could lubricate the sleeve bearing with a touch of mineral oil - now it's as quiet as ever and works great. Also, I ordered a replacement optical SATA adapter cable from iFixit and this resolved my issue of accessing the hard drive moved to the optical slot inside the dual drive enclosure. Long story short - all of my issues are resolved thanks to some disassembly/repair work and new parts from iFixit!

Brian M -

Same problem happens, i don’t know how to fix that as well. Anyone has any idea? Thanks

jimmychan1007 -

Hi!

I followed the tutorial and everything works fine when I use an HDD 320 go but when I use the new HDD I bought which is an Hitachi 1T 7200T 2.5 P I have some trouble. The disk utily takes a long time to recognize the new hard drive and then starts not responding.

I tought my new HDD might be broken but when I use it with an external portable HDD Enclosure it works fine...

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Julie

Julie Odeursa - Replica

I do believe the max size HDD is a 750GB. 1TB might be too big. Though the ONLY place I found this stated was on iFixit. No where else.

zondervon -

I just have finished installing second SSD to my MBP (unibody 15` 2010).

First one was changed like one year ago. Samsung 500GB SSD. It is in my HDD bay and I'm running system from it.

Today I put a new Samsung 1TB 850 Evo 1 SSD in to my optic bay.

I encounter problem with SSD not recognized by Finder.

But It was recognized by Disk Utility.

What I did was I erase new SSD by Disk Utility. Then the new partition was created and now It has been seen by Finder.

So If you see it in Disk Utility just erased it.

Some extra info in under this link--> https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-4...

Wish you all luck :)

rybafly - Replica

Hi all,

I did this and all seemed to be working fine, both drives showed up and all was good then about 20 minutes later i got a message saying that "the drive had been ejected incorrectly" or something like that. The drives have now disappeared from finder and Disk Utility. I took the SSD out of the superdrive caddy and put it in an external USB3 caddy, it's working fine. I even left this connected over night (all OK). This morning i put the SSD back into my Late 2011 MacBook and the same thing happened, 20ish minutes and then the eject message... Have i missed something?

Any help would be very much appreciated.

Steven Vacher - Replica

Dear iFixit

I changed my Hdd with an ssd using this guide. My hdd is now in a caddy where the optical drive used to be.

I can see my original drive ( Toshiba 500GB ) in the disk utility-app, but i can't reach my data on it.

When i take it out of the caddy again and put it in a external Hdd case, i can read it perfectly fine.

So there is nothing wrong with the hdd or the connection.

Is this a problem i can fix with software?

Thx for the help!

Jonas Lesage - Replica

Those were Phillips #00 in my case, not #0, on the small metal mounting bracket.

Oliver Creighton - Replica

Non buttare via questo disco! Puoi ancora usare l'unità ottica esternamente con l'aiuto del nostro cavo USB Unità Ottica Sata. Allinea la spina del cavo SATA con la presa sull'unità e connettila bene. Collega il connettore USB al tuo portatile e la tua unità ottica è pronta all'uso.
  • Non buttare via questo disco! Puoi ancora usare l'unità ottica esternamente con l'aiuto del nostro cavo USB Unità Ottica Sata.

  • Allinea la spina del cavo SATA con la presa sull'unità e connettila bene.

  • Collega il connettore USB al tuo portatile e la tua unità ottica è pronta all'uso.

There is a small metal button in the front of the drive and you can use that to eject the drive if you were wondering.

Joseph Landry - Replica

my drive’s connector is nothing like that, and I’m wondering is it possible to connect it to another computer?

grantdavis - Replica

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il dispositivo, seguire queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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the hdd in my cdbay keeps powering up even though its been ejected, tried a bunch of suggestions, nothing fixes it.

any ideas someone?

Jayme Capurso - Replica

I skipped the steps 6-11 minus just removing two of the screws on the Airport/ Bluetooth assembly and my installation was flawless. I had prior experience removing my Superdrive and there is enough wiggle room for you to pull out the Superdrive drive without damaging any cords or plugs that others seemed to damage. Also, my suggestion is that you clone your hard drive to the SSD and install the SSD in the original hard drive location. I installed the hdd in the Apple Drive Caddy. My computer ran awesome before with a SSD but now I have 500gb for space.

JustinB - Replica

hey mate. which screws you meant by "removing two of the screws on the Airport/ Bluetooth assembly"?

thanks!

Khent -

I did replaced my drive by a SSD really quickly ! However, since I've done that, my CPU goes crazy sometimes and the fans as well... I tried to install SSD Fan Control but it doesn't seems to work... Any solution ?

Alexis - Replica

I upgraded my MacBook Pro early 2011 this weekend with a Samsung 850 Pro 512GB. I followed one of the many online guides that talk about Carboncopy to copy your configuration on your HHD to your new drive and then you just have to swap them.

After I did this, I noticed that the fan started to blow for anything that I started. Just opening a webpage was enough. I cleaned the fan and indeed found a bunch of dust collected behind the exhaust of the fan. That must be it, I thought. But after starting my computer, it started the fan again quite soon.

Then I restarted my macbook via the old HDD on usb. Silence as I was used to before.. no fan going nuts on anything I started. So I created a bootable USB stick for a clean install. I have not heard the fan ever since. Only in cases that are normal because it requests more of my MacBook.

Marco Mul -

SSD Fan Control will do the trick. Just set the speed of the fans manually. Have done that on iMac and MBP - works like a charm.

Timpetou -

I did this upgrade with a 2TB drive. I had to move the main drive to the new drive enclosure and put the 2TB into the standard drive position.I thought I had broken the SATA cable but it was fine. Once I did the swap everything busted worked.

ken - Replica

OK so theoretically I would be able to install 2 4TB SSD and run Boot Camp Utility Windows 10 on one right. This will be epic. 16GB RAM with dual OS 4TB each.

Sergio Velez - Replica

Are the larger Tb SSD's 3.5 inch not 2.5 inch?

jamesmcsparron -

It's a lot easier the second time. If you have to put the SuperDrive back in for Apple to work on it...

Joshua Boak - Replica

Hey I got a 2nd hdd caddy from eBay for MacBook Pro early 2011, my hdd caddy has small white switch on its side!

what is it used for ? which side should I flip it ?

please help

harsh tibrewala - Replica

I did it exactly as shown. Put a new SSD as primary drive, restored de backup, but can't access the HDD (the original, that I put as secondary, for file store). The HDD works fine with the SATA-USB cable, but not at the optical slot. What should I do now?

RAFAEL BARRETO - Replica

I would try to Reformat the hard drive using disk utility which will erase everything currently on it tho so make sure to backup anything you don't want to lose if you kept it on there.

scottmcintyre -

When you install this, will it be SATA 2 or SATA 3 on the caddy?

Vedant Dhawan - Replica

If anybody look for an util to auto disable the second drive on a booting check it out: https://github.com/igorleanch/2ndrive

Igor Leanch - Replica

I have an issues about caddy bay 2nd hard drive. it did not show in the storage.Please advice

Thank you

NT

Ngau Tran - Replica

Hey

I tried to use the removed DVD-Drive with the provided adapter but it just makes some noise but does not show up anywhere on my Mac. Is there anything I need to do to make it work. Thanks for any help!

I have a MacBook Pro 15" Early 2011 with El Capitan 10.11.6 and replaced the DVD-Drive with a normal 1TB HDD.

Best,

Stefan

Stefan Durstberger - Replica

Does it matter if you put the new SSD in the enclosure that goes where the optical drive used to be or if you swap places with the original HDD? I didn't think about this, and now I have installed the SSD in the enclosure. Should I redo it and swap the drives?

Endre Njøs - Replica

Thank you for this guide. I’d been travelling and noticed my caddied drive was not mounting, and not showing up in disk first aid. My hunch was that a cable had become lose in transit. I fixed my problem by re-seating the drive in the caddy bay, as the drive had actually become lose. The click-in was real on reboot. And my drive mounted. You guys saved me a trip to my local mac shop, who had installed the caddy without the spacer!

TLDR: if your caddied drive doesnt mount, try following this guide to re-seat the drive.

CAMOSY CAMOSY - Replica

The dual hard drive enclosure that I just received, cannot be secured back into the spot the optical drive was in. It fits snugly - but the two areas that are meant to be used with the screws to secure the enclosure are too small. Basically, the screw itself CAN fit through the space provided - but the head of the screw is too wide, and is being obstructed by the side of the hard drive enclosure. Also, I noticed there is not a third such secure point on the enclosure for where the third screw was at. Right now, I sort of just have the enclosure sitting in the area, as I didn’t want a gaping hole in the laptop body, but I want to know what iFixit is going to do to fix this.

Spencer Wen - Replica

Here are the steps I did to clone HDD to SSD.

1.  On A1278 with 10.10 booted

2.  Attached Crucial 250GB new SSD on LHS in Enclosure

3.  Opened Disk Utility and Erased the drive, therefore formatting it, Journaled

4.  Shut down the Laptop

5.  Attached the El Capitan Western Digital 160GB clone drive

6.  Rebooted holding down the Option key and chose the Recovery Drive, the Recovery Drive is on the Western Digital 160.

7.  Choose Disk Utility on the Recovery screen

8.  On LHS chose the 250gb SSD target drive

9.  On TOP of SCREEN, in the Disk Utility Menu,  choose “Edit | Restore”

10.  Choose old OS drive as source of the Clone, the target is of course the 250gb SSD.

11.  Wait for the clone to stop, took 3 hours

12.  Reboot with Option depressed and choose the LHS cloned drive to make sure SSD boots

13.  Install 250gb SSD drive in new machine

14. Booted drive in machine

15.  Chose System Preference,  Boot Drive and chose that drive, since MacOSX looks at all partitions for an OS to boot to, which takes about 30 seconds.

Chapman Gleason - Replica

I am using MacOS in combine with Win10 if I replace the DVD by the HDD. Will both system can read and write on it?

ngthan21 - Replica

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