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Introduzione

Use this guide to replace the external volume rocker on your iPod. The volume control buttons are soldered to the logic board, this guide will only show you how to replace the button cover, not the mechanical buttons.

  1. We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Replica

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Replica

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Replica

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Replica

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Replica

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Replica

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Replica

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Replica

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Replica

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Replica

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Replica

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Replica

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Replica

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Replica

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Replica

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Replica

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Replica

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Replica

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Replica

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Replica

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Replica

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Replica

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Replica

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Replica

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Replica

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Replica

  2. Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Replica

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Replica

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Replica

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Replica

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Replica

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Replica

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Replica

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Replica

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Replica

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Replica

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Replica

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Replica

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Replica

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Replica

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson - Replica

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Replica

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Replica

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Replica

  3. Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Replica

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Replica

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Replica

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Replica

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Replica

  4. Lay the iOpener over the plastic tab to loosen the adhesive. Let the bag sit on the device for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to open the panel. Lay the iOpener over the plastic tab to loosen the adhesive. Let the bag sit on the device for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to open the panel.
    • Lay the iOpener over the plastic tab to loosen the adhesive. Let the bag sit on the device for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to open the panel.

  5. Use a plastic opening tool to pull the rear plastic cover away from the device until there is enough room to insert a spudger. Insert a spudger under the cover, then pry it up and away from the device. Remove the rear plastic cover from the iPod.
    • Use a plastic opening tool to pull the rear plastic cover away from the device until there is enough room to insert a spudger.

    • Insert a spudger under the cover, then pry it up and away from the device.

    • Remove the rear plastic cover from the iPod.

    • Be very careful in removing the plastic cover as the bluetooth antenna is adhered to it.

    Too bad there is not a warning for bluetooth antenna damage... This guide led me to tearing my antenna.

    trogfield - Replica

  6. Gently bend the Bluetooth antenna to the right, out of the way of the screws in the bottom of the device.
    • Gently bend the Bluetooth antenna to the right, out of the way of the screws in the bottom of the device.

    • Remove the single 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screw from the black plastic spacer.

  7. Use a plastic opening tool to remove the black plastic spacer from the Nano. Use a plastic opening tool to remove the black plastic spacer from the Nano.
    • Use a plastic opening tool to remove the black plastic spacer from the Nano.

  8. Remove the two 2 mm Phillips #000 screws from the bottom of the case.
    • Remove the two 2 mm Phillips #000 screws from the bottom of the case.

  9. Insert a plastic opening tool into the seam between the white plastic front panel and the rear case. Slide the opening tool along the edge of the front panel to free it from clips and adhesive.
    • Insert a plastic opening tool into the seam between the white plastic front panel and the rear case.

    • Slide the opening tool along the edge of the front panel to free it from clips and adhesive.

  10. Use a spudger to press the midframe screw tab up and out of the rear case.
    • Use a spudger to press the midframe screw tab up and out of the rear case.

    I CAN NOT find this midframe screw tab.

    Donald Fournier - Replica

  11. Use a metal spudger to carefully pry near the Lightning connector and under all parts of the front panel assembly: the front glass/digitizer, the LCD display and the metal midframe.
    • Use a metal spudger to carefully pry near the Lightning connector and under all parts of the front panel assembly: the front glass/digitizer, the LCD display and the metal midframe.

    • The adhesive under the metal midframe/display assembly is quite strong and the components are fragile, so go slowly and gently. Make sure you do not bend the LCD screen.

    This step is extremely difficult to do... How am I supposed to manage to lift the frame with the LCD screen without potentially causing damage to the LCD screen?

    Uriel Melchor - Replica

    Yeah, I did run into a roadblock with that too, so I’ll have to find a heat gun (or iOpener) and see if I can use that to loosen the frame.

    Kevin Bhasi -

    Hello, My name is Michael , in this moment I destroyed one of the lines of the screen, because in this point every connector it is the right side , so I advice start for the another side , left up through right down side i think is the better way.

    it is the shame for me.

    Michael Lendian Castillo - Replica

    This is quite bad way to separate the display from the housing. Many people will destroy the touch panel ribbon or the LCD. It is far better way that you insert very thin(~0.5mm) plastic card (do not use metal tool) to the gap between the housing and the iron LCD mounter, and the do as written.

    mamarama9904 - Replica

  12. Continue prying along the edges under the front panel assembly, releasing the clips and adhesive along the sides of the device. Continue prying along the edges under the front panel assembly, releasing the clips and adhesive along the sides of the device.
    • Continue prying along the edges under the front panel assembly, releasing the clips and adhesive along the sides of the device.

  13. Pull the front panel assembly slightly down and partially out of the device. You only need to open the device enough to gain access to the display cable connectors near the sleep/power button.
    • Pull the front panel assembly slightly down and partially out of the device.

    • You only need to open the device enough to gain access to the display cable connectors near the sleep/power button.

    • Do not separate the two halves entirely, they are still connected by several cables.

    STOP! DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS UNTIL AFTER STEP 14 IF YOU VALUE NOT SEVERING THE LCD CABLE! Just please, please be aware that the battery cable CANNOT be disconnected, be careful!

    Colin Gubler - Replica

  14. Use a spudger to release the digitizer cable and display data cable connectors. Use a spudger to release the digitizer cable and display data cable connectors.
    • Use a spudger to release the digitizer cable and display data cable connectors.

  15. Gently unfold the two halves of the device to access the internal components.
    • Gently unfold the two halves of the device to access the internal components.

    • Do not try to completely separate the two sections, yet, as they are still attached via a soldered cable.

  16. Pull up on the battery pull tab to free the battery from its adhesive. Flip the battery over into the rear case for safekeeping.
    • Pull up on the battery pull tab to free the battery from its adhesive.

    • Flip the battery over into the rear case for safekeeping.

    Disconnecting the battery from the lcd screen can ruin the battery,

    so why do that if you are just replacing the digitizer?

    rather just open the six screws and disconnect the digitizer.

    Yehuda Tsibushkin - Replica

  17. Completely separate the front panel assembly from the rest of the device.
    • Completely separate the front panel assembly from the rest of the device.

  18. Flip the battery down over the logic board to gain access to the sleep/power button assembly.
    • Flip the battery down over the logic board to gain access to the sleep/power button assembly.

    • Remove the two 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws from the sleep/power button bracket.

  19. Remove the bracket with a pair of tweezers. Remove the bracket with a pair of tweezers.
    • Remove the bracket with a pair of tweezers.

  20. Insert a plastic opening tool under the sleep button, and gently pry upwards to free it from its adhesive. Slide the plastic opening tool along the underside of the sleep button ribbon cable.
    • Insert a plastic opening tool under the sleep button, and gently pry upwards to free it from its adhesive.

    • Slide the plastic opening tool along the underside of the sleep button ribbon cable.

    • Continue freeing the ribbon cable until you can access the volume buttons on the left side of the rear case.

  21. Peel back and remove any tape covering  the volume control button assembly. Peel back and remove any tape covering  the volume control button assembly.
    • Peel back and remove any tape covering the volume control button assembly.

  22. Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the volume control button assembly to the rear case.
    • Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the volume control button assembly to the rear case.

  23. Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry the volume control button assembly away from the edge of the case. Do not remove the volume control button assembly from the device entirely; it is still connected to the logic board assembly by a soldered cable.
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry the volume control button assembly away from the edge of the case.

    • Do not remove the volume control button assembly from the device entirely; it is still connected to the logic board assembly by a soldered cable.

  24. Using a spudger, gently push the volume rocker into the device from the outside. The volume rocker is tucked into a thin rubber gasket. Try not to stretch the gasket too much as it may tear.
    • Using a spudger, gently push the volume rocker into the device from the outside.

    • The volume rocker is tucked into a thin rubber gasket. Try not to stretch the gasket too much as it may tear.

  25. Remove the volume rocker from the gasket and rear case. During reassembly, use the pointed end of a spudger to fold the rubber gasket down away from the side of the case. Slip the volume rocker back into its recess and resettle the gasket.
    • Remove the volume rocker from the gasket and rear case.

    • During reassembly, use the pointed end of a spudger to fold the rubber gasket down away from the side of the case. Slip the volume rocker back into its recess and resettle the gasket.

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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where can i find this volume button rocker?

I can't find on the web

help

io - Replica

reassembly is not just the reverse of the disassembly. new adhesive is necessary as well as new instructions.

jonhp - Replica

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