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Cosa ti serve
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Usa uno spudger per scollegare il cavo della presa jack dalla scheda madre. Dovrai fare leva delicatamente sul connettore verso la faccia anteriore dell'iPod (o l'alto, se preferisci: il connettore è come un mattoncino LEGO®) fino a scollegarlo dalla scheda madre.
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Suggerimento speciale per il rimontaggio: spingi il connettore all'interno finché non è sopra la sua presa sulla scheda madre. Quindi infila uno strumento sottile sopra il connettore e spingilo verso il basso sulla sua presa sulla scheda madre.
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Use a spudger to gently pry the battery up from the back of the display. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the display with your spudger.
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Use a metal spudger to carefully pry the metal bracket off the back of the display. Make sure you only pry off the bracket and not the clear shielding on the rear of the display. By working from the inside of the display, you won't be able to accidentially pry up the clear plastic shielding.
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Peel up the orange tape covering the display ribbon cable.
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Use a spudger to flip up the black plastic tab holding the orange display ribbon in place. The tab will rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable.
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Slide the display ribbon out of its connector and lift the display off of the logic board.
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10 Commenti
I also had a white screen. I emailed ifixit support and Brady Cabe suggested I reseat the display connector. That did it!
One hint: when you reverse the steps, you will have to reinstall the top bezel but you don't have to completely reassemble the bottom in order to test it. The earphone plug can be left hanging out (avoiding wear and tear on the fragile ribbon cable) as well as the metal brace and the three screws that hold everything together at the bottom - that reduces the possibility of stripping the screws. In my case, I did strip one of the bottom screws: the screen was broken in a car accident that also bent the case enough to make it hard to get to one of the teeny tiny screws. Even though I stripped that one, I was able to get it out by turning it with a (tiny) straight blade screwdriver: there was enough purchase for that even though the head of the screw does not have much material left.
I found that a 000 Phillips screwdriver worked FAR better than the 00 for all of the screws. Also, the one I repaired had a surprising amount of adhesive holding the battery down. The square end of the plastic spudger worked well to separate the battery from the rest of the internals allowing it to be rotated down and out of the way.
No success here. I could not figure out how the black retainer worked in order to release the ribbon cable for the display. I ended up breaking it. I tried to put it back together anyway to see if there was sufficient contact to make it work, but evidently not. Oh well, a $50 lesson. One other tool that is needed here is a jeweler's magnifying glass. Magnified pics in these instructions would also be a benefit. Also, can someone tell me how you're supposed to get that one recessed screw back in place?
Spit on the tip of my phillips screwdriver holds that tiny screw on until I can get it started in the hole
I also had a white screen, followed the guide step by step, made the repair easy. I do agre with one of the other comments, a 000 phillips screwdriver worked way way better than the 00.
