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Introduzione

Use this guide to replace the Lightning connector assembly in your iPhone 7 Plus, which can resolve many charging and connectivity issues.

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.

    pargoff - Replica

    The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.

    Ben Meinhart - Replica

    Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!

    Vanessa Pinter - Replica

    How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?

    adam - Replica

    The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???

    lkollar - Replica

    Instructions for replacing the seal are here: Sostituzione guarnizione adesiva display iPhone

    bester - Replica

    I just found the instructions on how to install the seals AFTER I was completed and had to figure it out. Maybe, just maybe you should link this somewhere on the guild instead of buried in a comment. Just a thought.

    Charles Meitin - Replica

  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    How long should I use a hairdryer for?

    Warren Binder - Replica

    I used it until it was hot to the touch but not too hot where you burn yourself.

    gczarny -

    Hey, I just took apart my first iPhone 7 plus today, and it was easier for me to use guitar picks and a magic glass tool. I did tear the home flex on the screen—now I know to be more careful of that on disassembly—-~Katrina of iPad Rehab Microsoldering

    jessabethany - Replica

    First I tried to remove the screen with the hot iOpener, but it doesn’t worked, the day after I putted the Iphone in the sun for a while and then used the hot iOpener, then the screen was easy to remove :-)

    Marc Boon - Replica

    Get a T-shirt add heat to a lil corner of it, with either a hair straighter or an Iron , touch the T-shirt if it’s seems hot but doesn’t burn u hold that lil hot piece of T-shirt against the edge ur trying to pry open , if it’s still not opening add a I’ll more heat,

    www.tertlegerl - Replica

    I don’t think the iOpener was effective at softening the adhesive. Using a suction cup and the spudger is good enough.

    Mac - Replica

    I took a hot water bottle and layed it on the display of the iPhone for a minute, because I did not have an iOpener. That worked for me perfect.

    Michael Maier - Replica

  3. Apply a suction cup to the lower half  of the front panel, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    Hi! My suction cup doesn’t work. It won’t strongly suck on my screen. Does anyone have any advice?

    kaiminliu119 - Replica

    Heat it up just a little with a hair dryer make sure it’s flat , let it coo a bit now try it??

    robertread - Replica

    The suction cup you provide sucks. In that it doesn’t hold. Luckily I had a set of heavy duty suction cups from when I worked on my iMac.

    Charles Meitin - Replica

  4. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

    • While pulling up on the suction cup, twist the spudger to widen the opening between the screen and rear case.

    Be very careful not to pull up with too much force. My screen just shattered while I was pulling up with my suction cup. (There were no previous cracks or chips or anything).

    Benjamin Pounds - Replica

    I’m stuck on this part. I’ve heated the bottom up and attached the suction cup right above the home button, but I can’t pull it apart. I feel like I’m going to break the glass display. Tips?

    whtafrcn420 - Replica

    Someone mentioned above, using strong tape helps .

    MajorCouillon - Replica

    You won’t be able to put the spudger into the gap unless the phone is in a vertical position (speaker side up) in your hands.

    Mac - Replica

    read steps 4-9 before attempting. I cracked my glass because I didn’t

    David Lei - Replica

    My first 7 Plus opening. I pulled up the screen just enough to insert a thin guitar pick at the bottom of the phone to break the adhesive. I didn’t even create a gap as such. I then ran the pick along the sides to continue to detach the adhesive, just like iFixIt show in Step 10 for the top of the phone.

    My screen already had a crack at the bottom, near the home button, so I was nervous about pulling too hard on the screen. It had a screen protector fitted so maybe that helped keep it all together.

    iFixIt’s use of a spudger at the bottom of the phone looked hazardous to me, especially with my damaged screen.

    Big Ed - Replica

    This must be a joke. I’ve been trying for days to pull open the iphone like this. Doesn’t work. I bent the ring on the suction cup trying to pull it off, but nothing happens, no gap, not remote possibility of a pick or spudger getting in there.

    James Osborne - Replica

    Ended up using a blowdryer and a razor blade. Bottom got scratched up, but there was no way that fat plastic spudger was going to fit. I got the razor under the corner, from there worked to middle and twisted with repeatedly adding heat. Lots of heat.

    James Osborne - Replica

  5. Insert the flat end of the spudger between the front panel and the rear case at the lower left edge of the iPhone. Slide the spudger up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place. Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.
    • Insert the flat end of the spudger between the front panel and the rear case at the lower left edge of the iPhone.

    • Slide the spudger up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

  6. Remove the spudger from the left side of the phone and insert the flat end into the bottom right corner. Slide the spudger up the right edge of the phone to the top corner, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.
    • Remove the spudger from the left side of the phone and insert the flat end into the bottom right corner.

    • Slide the spudger up the right edge of the phone to the top corner, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

  7. Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone. Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are delicate ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.
    • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

    • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are delicate ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

  8. Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel. Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
    • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  9. Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.
    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

  10. Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
    • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    So if I broke the cable that connects the display to the logic board. What replacement part would I need to order now?

    Robert Danson - Replica

    Probably the screen

    Christian Sirolli -

  11. Remove the following four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board:
    • Remove the following four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.6 mm screw

    Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.

    u204863 - Replica

    Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    You could stick the suction cup back on, near the right side of the phone, with the blue hook oriented in such a way that it becomes a stand for the screen. That way it won’t open much more than 90 degrees, and leaves both your hands free.

    Mark -

    The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?

    shannon caldwell - Replica

    At first I think I was being too careful and was getting no where. I got better results by pressing down on the screwdriver with more pressure while turning and those little screws came right out.

    LadyTech - Replica

    I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?

    Katherine Monday - Replica

    @katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    my screwdriver will only remove the 2.6mm screw and not the others, what shall i do?

    AubreyG1 - Replica

    A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!

    Trey Smith - Replica

    STOP! Before you remove Any screws, be sure to create several bins to hold the various sizes in… or mark them like Trey suggested. I failed to pay attention because I thought they were all the same… they are not. It is very hard to figure out the sizes if you remove them all and store them in a single location.

    John Grant - Replica

    i had a piece of paper with the steps numbered that involved screws. I had double sided tape on the paper and the number of screws and thier position marked. This was so helpful in removing and then finding and installing the tiniest screws on earth. And i have TINY hands. I can’t imagine someone with large paws being able to accomplish any of this.

    Tina Matthews - Replica

  12. Remove the lower display cable bracket. Remove the lower display cable bracket.
    • Remove the lower display cable bracket.

    I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    chris west - Replica

    If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.

    Scott Havard - Replica

    Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol

    Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.

    jeffrey griffith - Replica

    I had to use a fingernail to dislodge the bracket. As Jeffrey said, it was apparently stuck to the connector.

    lkollar - Replica

  13. Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone.
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

    You could cover the battery socket with a small piece of tape to make sure that it doesn’t accidentally re-connect. It’s not likely to, but I liked the peace of mind.

    Mark - Replica

    on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.

    Sarr Sheffer - Replica

    I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.

    MajorCouillon - Replica

    After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.

    Evan O - Replica

  14. Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step. Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board. To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

    The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

    Talon - Replica

    What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?

    Alextay - Replica

    Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….

    Darius Varanavičius -

    what are my options if the display connector broke? can it be replaced or do I need to get a whole new screen?

    matomach - Replica

    When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.

    Grant Crawford - Replica

    My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol

    Joshua Driscoll - Replica

    have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…

    ibisiki -

    Bent the pins on the connector out of place, worked them very carefully back with fine nose tweezers. This was by far the crux of the repair for me.

    nicO - Replica

  15. Remove the three tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector: One 1.3 mm screw Two 1.0 mm screws
    • Remove the three tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • Two 1.0 mm screws

    • Remove the bracket.

    Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

    chris west - Replica

    I know your comment was posted a long time ago but just in case someone else has the same problem, the only difference in the screws are the lengths. The ends are the same.

    mcr4u2 - Replica

    What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?

    assweeetasyou - Replica

    Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!

    Wayne Lyell -

    Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +

    Jeremiah Kjensmo - Replica

    I called the y tip a triangle tip until I read these comments. Thanks for the correction

    Kayla Tobin -

    Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?

    alicenine84 - Replica

    Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.

    Benji - Replica

    I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.

    Stephen Patterson -

    I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?

    I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.

    My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.

    Would appreciate any advice!

    jrosegoep - Replica

    Dear IFixit: First, I want You to know I love your repair guides. I consider You to be the absolute best repair manuals available. But, hopefully as your friend I am going to point out once the bracked is removed a 2.0 mm Standoff screw should appear. It’s 1 of 2 screws holding the Antena Flex Cable in place. Rob

    Robert Schmidt - Replica

  16. Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board. This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.
    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

    Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!

    Kevin Reilly - Replica

    Thanks Kevin. I would be stuck if I hadn't read your comment!?! Great input.

    Lukas Watts -

    I also made this mistake! Thank goodness it didn’t break anything.

    That Guy - Replica

  17. Remove the display assembly.

    When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.

    Benji - Replica

    Thank you for including a link to the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide, this was very helpful!

    Robert O'Brien - Replica

    is it really necessary to remove the display? the screen connectors are delicate and I fear re-assembly errors. I changed the battery and did not remove any screen connectors. no problems.

    jacobra - Replica

  18. Remove three Phillips screws securing the antenna component:
    • Remove three Phillips screws securing the antenna component:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • One 1.2 mm screw

    It is not necessary to remove the logic board. remove the three standoff screws and the simcard holder and push back the sim ejector pin and you can lift the logic board up about 7mm. with isopropyl to loosen the adhesive, slide a spudger under the old charge port cable you can easily slide it out. Makes the job a lot easier and quicker.

    Jack - Replica

    Thanks Jack,

    Followed your advice and saves a fair bit of work.

    Drew McCluskey - Replica

  19. Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna component to the top edge of the rear case.
    • Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna component to the top edge of the rear case.

    This screw is slightly larger than the other 1.3mm ones. Don't mix it up like me.

    vinicius.edson - Replica

  20. The screw boss at the top of the antenna component is tucked into a small recess in the top edge of the iPhone. Tilt the antenna component up towards the top of the phone. Slide the screw boss down and out of its recess.
    • The screw boss at the top of the antenna component is tucked into a small recess in the top edge of the iPhone.

    • Tilt the antenna component up towards the top of the phone.

    • Slide the screw boss down and out of its recess.

  21. Remove the top left antenna component.
    • Remove the top left antenna component.

  22. Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray. Press firmly to eject the tray.
    • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press firmly to eject the tray.

  23. Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone. The SIM card will fall out of the tray easily. When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.
    • Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.

    • The SIM card will fall out of the tray easily.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

    • A thin rubber gasket around the SIM tray provides water and dust protection. If this gasket is damaged or missing, replace the gasket to protect your iPhone's internal components.

  24. Use an iFixit opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the dual camera cable connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets. Use an iFixit opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the dual camera cable connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets. Use an iFixit opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the dual camera cable connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets.
    • Use an iFixit opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the dual camera cable connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets.

  25. Remove the two screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket:
    • Remove the two screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket:

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.2 mm standoff screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    Why is there a standoff screw here? No other screw goes into it so why not have a Phillips?

    Trevor Smith - Replica

    More to the point, why doesn’t the Ifixit tool kit for this job come with the bit required?

    John Tinsley - Replica

    Second that, sitting here trying to figure out how to get it out.

    Jeffrey Wilhelm -

    iFixit kits do come with all the required bits, but sometimes specialty bits like this one are packed into a different part of the box. Unpack the entire kit and you should find it. In the unlikely event that it really is missing due to a packing error, contact customer support and they’ll send you the missing bit ASAP.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I strongly urge Ifixit to change this comment “In a pinch, a flathead screwdriver will do the job” - maybe ok for REMOVAL ONLY, but for REASSEMBLY - it is very dangerous - i used a flathead while fixing my daughters phone and they kept going crooked - easily causing me 1-2 hours of frustration and STRIPPING THE THREADS IN THE ALUMINUM BACK FRAME BODY !!!!

    I had to hot glue a couple spots and skip several screws on reassembly to do the jankiest, most embarrasing repair job - BUY THE RIGHT SPECIAL TOOL FOR THE STANDOFF SCREWS OR YOU’LL REGRET IT!!!

    treadmillfix - Replica

    There is no tool for this special screw. What gives?

    Jacob DeShazo - Replica

  26. Remove the bracket covering the rear-facing camera.
    • Remove the bracket covering the rear-facing camera.

  27. Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the upper cable bracket.
    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the upper cable bracket.

  28. Remove the upper cable bracket.
    • Remove the upper cable bracket.

  29. Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the grounding clip at the top left edge of the logic board.
    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the grounding clip at the top left edge of the logic board.

  30. Remove the grounding clip.
    • Remove the grounding clip.

  31. Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna flex cable to the top edge of the iPhone's rear case. Remove the remaining Phillips screw from the antenna flex cable.
    • Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna flex cable to the top edge of the iPhone's rear case.

    • Remove the remaining Phillips screw from the antenna flex cable.

    This step is when you will also need to remove a second screw on the antenna flex cable, below and left of the circled screw.

    Evan O - Replica

    Evan O is right! There is a 2.0 mm Standoff screw right below; and possibly slightly left, of the top 1.3 mm Phillips screw. It should actually show up in Step 15 as soon as the bracket is removed. Rob

    Robert Schmidt - Replica

  32. Use a fingernail or the sharp end of an iFixit opening tool to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable connector from the logic board. Use a fingernail or the sharp end of an iFixit opening tool to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable connector from the logic board.
    • Use a fingernail or the sharp end of an iFixit opening tool to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable connector from the logic board.

  33. Slide the flat edge of a spudger underneath the antenna flex cable to separate the adhesive holding it in place. Slide the flat edge of a spudger underneath the antenna flex cable to separate the adhesive holding it in place.
    • Slide the flat edge of a spudger underneath the antenna flex cable to separate the adhesive holding it in place.

  34. The screw boss at the top of the antenna flex cable is tucked into a small recess in the top edge of the iPhone. Tilt the antenna flex cable  up toward the top of the iPhone. Slide the screw boss down and out of its recess.
    • The screw boss at the top of the antenna flex cable is tucked into a small recess in the top edge of the iPhone.

    • Tilt the antenna flex cable up toward the top of the iPhone.

    • Slide the screw boss down and out of its recess.

    • Remove the antenna flex cable.

    What is underneath the Antena flex Cable?

    Robert Schmidt - Replica

    I’m still waiting for response. Someone had the nerve to ask me, ‘Which Antena flex Cable?’ with response.

    Robert Schmidt - Replica

    IfixIt: I need You to clarify something I just descovered. I just received different iPhone 7 Plus and Antena flex cable came off and left Standoff screw still on logic board. Different iPhone 7 Plus actually has Standoff screw attached to cable in way it’s impossible to separate.

    Rob

    Robert Schmidt - Replica

  35. Use a thin pry tool or tweezers to carefully pry up and disconnect the two coaxial cable connectors from the logic board. During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. One at a time, hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat of your spudger. The connector should snap into place. During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. One at a time, hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat of your spudger. The connector should snap into place.
    • Use a thin pry tool or tweezers to carefully pry up and disconnect the two coaxial cable connectors from the logic board.

    • During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. One at a time, hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat of your spudger. The connector should snap into place.

    What purpose do these coax cables have?

    Eddie Orantes - Replica

    Note… the top coax (nearest the battery connector) leads to the WiFi Diversity Antenna on the speaker assembly. The other coax is for the secondary cell antenna, part of the lightning assembly. Be sure to reassemble them to the right sockets!

    Ronald Stamper - Replica

    Thanks so much for this helpful comment! I have just spent a few hours trying to find that information and here it is.

    thalley -

    Thank you so much, same as Thalley, more than 30 minutes that I’m searching for this info everywhere !!

    Olivier Tardy -

    Any tips on remembering which coax goes to which socket?

    Alan Chen -

    Ronald Stamper, is this the same for the 7?

    Keah Smith - Replica

  36. Disconnect the two remaining ribbon cables from the logic board: Disconnect the upper cable connector by prying from the top Disconnect the Lightning port connector by prying along the outer edge
    • Disconnect the two remaining ribbon cables from the logic board:

    • Disconnect the upper cable connector by prying from the top

    • Disconnect the Lightning port connector by prying along the outer edge

  37. Remove the seven screws securing the logic board:
    • Remove the seven screws securing the logic board:

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

    • Two 2.1 mm standoff screws

    • Two 2.0 mm standoff screws

    • Two 2.2 mm standoff screws

    • Standoff screws are best removed using an [prodotto collegato mancante o disabilitato: IF145-343-1] and driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    I did not have the 2.0mm standoff screw (closest to the edge of the phone by the power button). The bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector (Step 15) was screwed in to this spot.

    Simon Ragona III - Replica

  38. Use the point of a spudger to push the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way. Use the point of a spudger to push the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.
    • Use the point of a spudger to push the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.

  39. Use the point of a spudger to carefully de-route the two coaxial cables  from the small metal clip holding them to the logic board.
    • Use the point of a spudger to carefully de-route the two coaxial cables from the small metal clip holding them to the logic board.

    The cables need to be popped out of the clip by moving them up.

    Evan O - Replica

    Remember to differentiate between the two coaxial cables, its hard to tell during reassembly which is which

    Alan Chen - Replica

  40. Lift the logic board from the bottom edges and slide it toward the bottom of the iPhone to remove it. Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables. During reassembly, note the position of the black grounding clip at the top right edge of the logic board, near the rear cameras. The logic board should slide underneath the clip.
    • Lift the logic board from the bottom edges and slide it toward the bottom of the iPhone to remove it.

    • Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

    • During reassembly, note the position of the black grounding clip at the top right edge of the logic board, near the rear cameras. The logic board should slide underneath the clip.

    is very nice, I follow them and I really like them

    Juan Jose - Replica

  41. Remove the following two Phillips screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case:
    • Remove the following two Phillips screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 2.1 mm screw

    I skipped this step and go straight to step 25. I skipped it because I couldn’t get the screws to come off. But skipping those step did not prevent me or has any detrimental effects on performing step 25.

    Jamie Liao - Replica

    I agree, I don’t see any reason to remove the Taptic engine to remove the battery…It seems like more of a chance of screwing something else up…keep it simple…

    William Karis - Replica

    If you’re replacing the battery, removing the Taptic Engine gives you a much better chance of removing the battery adhesive strips successfully. To keep them from snagging and breaking, you want to pull them from as low an angle as possible. With the Taptic Engine in the way, you have to pull them at almost 90 degrees, or risk snagging them on the Taptic Engine.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    i can’t get the 2.1 screw 2 come out pls help anyone

    John Bryce - Replica

    I agree with Jamie Liao above. Skips steps 18-24 as described. Before proceeding with step 25, I heated a microwavable hot/cold compress (used to treat muscle strains). I set the iPhone back casing on the heated compress before pulling out the adhesive strips.

    Again, there is no need to do steps 18 through 24.

    Thomas Young - Replica

    i didn’t remove this and had major issues pulling the adhesive strips out. I literally couldn’t grasp them and then when i did, they broke! UGH! I was able to complete the installation but i must have done something wrong because my phone still isnt working. It just ‘flashes’ the apple logo. Won’t do anything else. Should have just taken it in for repair. Now i have to buy a new phone anyway.

    Tina Matthews - Replica

  42. Gently push the barometric vent in the direction of the Taptic Engine to separate the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone. Gently push the barometric vent in the direction of the Taptic Engine to separate the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
    • Gently push the barometric vent in the direction of the Taptic Engine to separate the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    Adhesive may require a tiny amount of tugging of the barometric vent to free it…

    Sarr Sheffer - Replica

  43. Remove the vent.
    • Remove the vent.

  44. Pry up the Taptic Engine's ribbon cable connector to disconnect it. Pry up the Taptic Engine's ribbon cable connector to disconnect it.
    • Pry up the Taptic Engine's ribbon cable connector to disconnect it.

  45. Remove the three 1.5 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.
    • Remove the three 1.5 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.

  46. Remove the Taptic Engine.
    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

    I’m just gonna add a comment here because I’m guessing a lot of other people who are repairing iphone 7s, like me, thought “lets also get a new battery!” This is the point at which you pull the three tape pieces holding the battery to the case out to remove the old battery. When you install a new battery, the battery connector has to be able to line up perfectly with the plug on the logic board so the battery has to go back in the exact right place. This is harder when you’ve already taken apart most of the phone. I ended up putting the battery back in after step 37. Still difficult to positiion it right. I think if I did it again, I might mark where the battery is on the case before I remove it…

    Alex McDonough - Replica

  47. Carefully de-route the two coaxial cables from the metal bracket holding them to the side of the speaker. Carefully de-route the two coaxial cables from the metal bracket holding them to the side of the speaker. Carefully de-route the two coaxial cables from the metal bracket holding them to the side of the speaker.
    • Carefully de-route the two coaxial cables from the metal bracket holding them to the side of the speaker.

  48. Remove the five Phillips screws securing the speaker:
    • Remove the five Phillips screws securing the speaker:

    • Three 1.3 mm screws

    • One 2.3 mm screw

    • One 3.3 mm screw

  49. Remove the speaker.
    • Remove the speaker.

    One of the coaxial cables is attached to speaker. Was pulling out the speaker and this was tripping me up until I looked closer

    Alan Ehrle - Replica

    Be careful when putting this part aside with the others as it has magnetics on it and can catch your screw messing them around. The struggle is real.

    vinicius.edson - Replica

  50. Remove the 2.9 mm Phillips screw at the top left of the Lightning port.
    • Remove the 2.9 mm Phillips screw at the top left of the Lightning port.

  51. Remove the spring contact underneath the screw you just removed.
    • Remove the spring contact underneath the screw you just removed.

    Whats this part used for?

    Eddie Orantes - Replica

    Bonjour, depuis que j’ai changé la nappe du connecteur de charge mon bouton home ne fonctionne plus sur iPhone 7, pouvez vous l’aiguillette. Merci d’avance

    Geoffrey - Replica

    The inverted twitters just saved me from a headache when trying to put this one back in.

    vinicius.edson - Replica

  52. Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the Lightning connector:
    • Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the Lightning connector:

    • Two 1.7 mm screws

    • One 2.8 mm screw

  53. Remove the two 1.2 mm Phillips screws securing the Lightning port to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
    • Remove the two 1.2 mm Phillips screws securing the Lightning port to the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    The right one on my phone won’t come out as if it’s rounded off but isn’t any ideas ?

    Ellis whait - Replica

    I had that same problem with one of them. I ended up ripping that piece off and then spinning the entire thing around and that loosened it enough to where i could use another screw driver to spin it out the rest of the way.

    Jeffrey Kovarik - Replica

  54. Use the sharp edge of an iFixit Opening Tool to pry the two microphones free from the adhesive securing them in place. Don't try to completely remove the microphones; just separate the adhesive as shown. Don't try to completely remove the microphones; just separate the adhesive as shown.
    • Use the sharp edge of an iFixit Opening Tool to pry the two microphones free from the adhesive securing them in place.

    • Don't try to completely remove the microphones; just separate the adhesive as shown.

    I was replacing the battery as well. Now is a great time to remove it.

    John Tinsley - Replica

  55. Slide an opening pick or thin pry tool underneath the top portion of the Lightning connector assembly flex cable, and begin separating it from the rear case. If necessary, use a hair dryer or apply an iOpener to heat the rear case and soften the adhesive, in order to make it easier to separate. If necessary, use a hair dryer or apply an iOpener to heat the rear case and soften the adhesive, in order to make it easier to separate.
    • Slide an opening pick or thin pry tool underneath the top portion of the Lightning connector assembly flex cable, and begin separating it from the rear case.

    • If necessary, use a hair dryer or apply an iOpener to heat the rear case and soften the adhesive, in order to make it easier to separate.

  56. Continue separating the upper portion of the flex cable, being careful not to damage any other components along the way. Continue separating the upper portion of the flex cable, being careful not to damage any other components along the way. Continue separating the upper portion of the flex cable, being careful not to damage any other components along the way.
    • Continue separating the upper portion of the flex cable, being careful not to damage any other components along the way.

  57. Carefully slide your pick from the corner of the battery to the corner of the iPhone to separate the  portion of the flex cable adhered to the outer frame. Carefully slide your pick from the corner of the battery to the corner of the iPhone to separate the  portion of the flex cable adhered to the outer frame.
    • Carefully slide your pick from the corner of the battery to the corner of the iPhone to separate the portion of the flex cable adhered to the outer frame.

  58. Slide your pick across the width of the iPhone to separate all the remaining strands of the flex cable from the rear case. Be very careful not to damage the battery in the process. A punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire. Be very careful not to damage the battery in the process. A punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.
    • Slide your pick across the width of the iPhone to separate all the remaining strands of the flex cable from the rear case.

    • Be very careful not to damage the battery in the process. A punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.

    During re-assembly, ensure you add those four kinks in the ribbon sections that drop down the ridge in the rear casing (perhaps very carefully bend them in shape before sticking the new connector assembly to the casing, which I’ve not yet tried). Otherwise the new ribbon won’t sit directly over the white dots higher up the case, leading to misalignment when trying to connect other ribbon cables later on.

    Dan Gow - Replica

    I thought I understood what Dan meant above. What he’s saying is really helpful, but I didn’t quite understand. During reassembly, I ended up trying to make the bends with a spooger once the replacement piece was already in the case and I poked a small hole through the piece, just missing an electrical component (it still worked). You can see the four bends in the picture here, (all horozontal to the bottom of the phone) but they might be easier to understand if you look at the old lightning connector piece you just took out. They’re four tiny kinks that are essential. If I did it again, I would make the kinks, then apply the ends of the “L” of this part and work toward the bend or the angle of the “L” in the corner. This was probably the hardest part of the repair…

    Alex McDonough - Replica

  59. Remove the Lightning connector assembly. Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly: Use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case.
    • Remove the Lightning connector assembly.

    • Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly:

    • Use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case.

    • You can clean any remaining residue from the surface with isopropyl alcohol (90% concentration or greater) and a lint-free cloth. Wipe in one direction only, not back and forth.

    • Make sure the Lightning connector assembly is correctly positioned so that the two white dots on the iPhone's rear case show through the two circular cutouts in the Lightning flex cable. If they don't, the flex cable will remain misaligned and you won't be able to reconnect it to its socket on the logic board.

    the red bit is so important. I’ve just had to completely do this tutorial again bacause it was less than a millimeter askew :( Be careful guys

    AubreyG1 - Replica

    For re-assembly, I first removed the adhesive below the red circles and aligned and adhered. Then, I moved my way down toward the bottom, removing the adhesive. Seemed to work out well.

    Jaret Johnson - Replica

    This should be in the instructions. It is nearly impossible to align otherwise.

    Thomas de Araujo -

    There is also a little fold or ridge right in front of the lightening socket on the flex.. that little ridge takes up the 1mm you’re out on the dots if you can’t get it aligned. Your speaker may also not work if you get this wrong.

    Scott i - Replica

    I think a picture of what to clean is needed as if there is anything left it may not fit

    WADE TURNER - Replica

  60. A rubber gasket on the bottom of the Lightning connector protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. If you are installing a new Lightning connector assembly, you may need to carefully remove and transfer the gasket to the new part. The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly. The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly.
    • A rubber gasket on the bottom of the Lightning connector protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. If you are installing a new Lightning connector assembly, you may need to carefully remove and transfer the gasket to the new part.

    • The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly.

    Excellent procedure to take it apart however the kit came with a ‘Mesh’ kit of gaskets and speaker vents with no actual instructions of what is what or when each should be installed. One item that was not in the ‘Mesh’ kit is the rectangular gasket for the lighting connector. Even though it come off the old assembly easily enough there is no adhesive to hold it in place when aligning the assembly into the case.

    I think there should be a parts list with the Mesh kit to make identifying these tiny seal identifiable. That would be helpful.

    WADE TURNER - Replica

    Agree with WADE TURNER. This is really, really weak on the part of iFixit. You need clearer instructions for putting this thing back together—particularly for the adhesives with no identification whatsoever. Also, I hope you are reading this, because aligning the lightning connector assembly perfectly is CRITICAL. If it is not perfectly aligned, there is no way you will be able to connect it to the logic board later.

    Thomas de Araujo - Replica

    I third the comments here.

    Todd Toner - Replica

    Normally when I replace the charge port on any iPhone or device I first connect it to the mainboard to test the connector. After I know that the charge port flex will connect and take amperage from the lightning cable. I leave the flex connector connected to the mainboard and proceed in installing the flex, with the motherboard first, Then I will route the charge port flex cable to the bottom of the phone. That ensures proper placement of the connector and also no kinks in the flex when applying it to the frame.

    As for the microphone or any small component that needs sealant I use a liquid adhesive (no super Glue) use like T7000 T8000 or similar. Take a toothpick and dab a small amount around the area that needs adhesive. Then adhere to the 2 pieces( in this case the microphone to the frame. This always provides a water-tight seal. No matter the location.

    John Loya - Replica

Conclusione

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or search our Answers forum for help.

Altre 159 persone hanno completato questa guida.

Jeff Suovanen

Membro da: 06/08/2013

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39 Commenti

NOTE TO ALL: When you put the port back in, LINE UP THE HOLES ON THE FRAME. If you don’t line up the holes perfectly on the cable (even if it’s off by a millimeter), the cable will NOT extend and plug into the logic board. It has to be perfect. You’re welcome :)

Brady8812 - Replica

I have this issue but cant seem to get it to set properly? any ideas the po seems like it's in fine but wont connect to logic board

Sean Smyth -

I feel like this is the most important piece of information on this entire guide. I drove myself mad disassembling and reassembling multiple iPhone 7/8 Plus devices with this exact issue.

Conrad -

So i did this and now my home button does not work. Any suggestions?

Brandon Rasco - Replica

So far as I can tell, the only part of this procedure that affects the home button is when it’s disconnected from the board in step 14. I’d probably double-check those connectors to make sure they’re seated properly for a start. Check the sockets for dust/debris or pin damage. Inspect the cables for damage. While you’re troubleshooting, remember to always disconnect the battery first and reconnect it last. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi there, I did the whole process successfully, phone starts up again but I charging does not work?? Tried different cables - didn’t work! Any suggestions? Thanks Thomas

Thomas Senn - Replica

Either you haven’t connected it back up properly, you may have bent pins or debris on the connections or you have a faulty charging flex cable.

Clems -

One of the parts isn’t genuine. Either your actual charging port or the cable you’re using.

Clems -

So I did this and now it shows ”this accessory may not be supported,” any suggestions?

Slavic Nikitenko - Replica

I replaced my charging port and now the service is not coming to my phone. Does anyone know which antennae or cable I messed up when replacing it? Wifi works but not data.

Knox Watson - Replica

I have had the same issue happen. I tried multiple charging ports for my customer and each one would lose cell service. The second I put the original port back in, service was working again. I called my tech support team to no solution. Has anyone else experienced this and able to get it resolved?

drbenson511 -

I took it slowly and was extra careful. everything worked out perfectly, except putting the adhesive back on, good thing I was also changing the battery so I had two. One thing you should note is which coaxial cables go where before you disconnect them. I was lucky that one was longer than the other and thats how I figured it out.

Pedro De Anda Jr - Replica

Dose this lightning connector part come with the microphones

Fredy cadena - Replica

It is not necessary to remove the logic board. remove the three standoff screws and the simcard holder and push back the sim ejector pin and you can lift the logic board up about 7mm. with isopropyl to loosen the adhesive, slide a spudger under the old charge port cable you can easily slide it out. Makes the job a lot easier and quicker.

Jack - Replica

Can you give a little more explanation here? It might make total sense once I’m inside, but I’m having trouble figuring out which three standoff screws you’re referring to. Looking at step 37, is it the two 2.2 mm screws (green) and the 2.0 mm screw (yellow) on the right side? And do you think I can do it this way without isopropyl alcohol? I’ve only got 70% on hand.

pphenow -

i did this but phone still dead

David Kheng - Replica

This is a very difficult and risky procedure. As an experienced electronics and tech hobbyist and professional (i’m a king nerd), after hours of methodical disassembly, part replacement and reassembly, I managed to not fix my phone and make it worst. Now my battery doesn’t recharge, my SIM card is not being recognized, and the phone is likely not water resistant anymore. A huge waste of time (and some money). I would not recommend anyone moving ahead with this procedure.

Julien Maculan - Replica

Replaced this with iFixit replacement part. The repair went well, however when inserting the SIM, Verizon comes up however I have no bars. I’ve tested on another iPhone with no problem. Any ideas?

chris - Replica

Buongiorno, il connettore Lightning del iPhone 7 è lo stesso del 7 plus?

Grazie mille

Buflein - Replica

I cannot get my charging port to connect back to the main board i have tried setting the port a few times but still no joy?

Sean Smyth - Replica

So my brother changed mine and mixed up all the screws.. how in the world do I find out which screws go where?? Is there a new screw set I can buy that’s already in order

biggs.leana - Replica

I have done lots of these on 7 and 7+………. can be done without removing the logic board, which saves a lot of steps.

Gently lift it and slide something underneath it to free it, and you can slide the old port flex out and the new one in……. just make sure its

in the right position and you can connect it to the board before setting the logic board back down.

Alan Sears - Replica

made this repair. phone is charging now…thank god. everything else is working. but my rear face camera image is shaking( blurry than focused and repeating) front facing camera image on screen is perfect. Helppppppp

morris3891 - Replica

Did the repair step by step. reversed and put all back together. The phone works i all functions but, when making a call, the receiver of the call hears crackling and con only hear my voice if I talk close to the mic and loud/ continuously. I can hear them perfectly. I believe all is back together because all is working 95% just need microphone to work better? BTW I purchased part on Ebay but they stated it is a Iphone OEM replacement part. Any ideas would be appreciated, thx

The4slacks - Replica

im about to do this repair and now im worried after reading comments

lee hallett - Replica

Hello, i just changed the lightning connector on my Iphone, everything works great! except!!!! no once can hear me. Any suggestions on where I need to go and check? Thanks.

César Ramírez - Replica

Finished the whole repair but my speaker seams to not be working any suggestions to fix this everything else works fine

Christopher compton - Replica

Hello,

my iphone is 7plus having two issue one of them is battery is gone very fast so i think i have to changed it but i have another issue i would like your opinon once i make a call i can’t hear anything and the receiver same can’t hear anything so what i have to fixed it.

thank you

Kamal demyian - Replica

I did the replacement for the lightning connector, it works but now the touch screen doesn’t work. Any suggestions on why this is happening? I went back through the process twice and still the same result. I was careful not to damage the connectors to the screen but I can see if there’s damage or not. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.

Juan Daniels - Replica

The reason I Changed the part is the microphone does not work right after I installed everything I only got the apple logo and nothing else , would not work I had to put back the old part back and it started but still have the microphone problem

Julio Estrada - Replica

An important note when attaching the new lightning port ribbon cable and coaxial cables to the logic board: the new part needs foam padding on top of the press fit cable attachments. You can either steal it from your old ones or put some padding there some other way, but if you don’t have it, it seems the cable bracket will short the connection and prevent the phone from charging. Some of the ifixit parts will not have this padding on there, so double check!

Dylan Box - Replica

I followed the instructions to the letter, was very very very careful with handling the ribbon cables and keeping the screws labelled in separate pots so they went back in exactly the right places, changed the charging port and installed a brand new ifixit battery for good measure. Put it all back together and…nothing. Battery won’t charge, neither will the old one. Powers on with the old battery but thats it. Have checked all my work several times, re-attached the ribbon cables and still nothing. I now have to take it to one of those untrustworthy mobile phone repair shops you find all over the UK that I have been trying so hard to avoid. A massive waste of time and money.

matt2 - Replica

My sister has been having charging issues with her 7 plus. Might have to try this sometime.

Carter Stingel - Replica

Well my first attempt was going so well and then trying to remove the sticky backing from the back of one of the mics and the whole mic came off at the ribbon. Arrrgh, So thought maybe it would work with one mic and carried on but now the lightening connector not aligned with logic board AARRGGH!.

Harvinder Azad - Replica

Can someone tell me what the yellow circular tab is for on one of the microphones. I don’t see tho son the one removed. Thanks

Harvinder Azad - Replica

Thanks this was really help for a junior engineer like me.

Kymani Bailey - Replica

Ok step 37 is VERY misleading. Those standoff screws are NOT interchangeable with the others labeled with the same color.

When you are taking off the motherboard, be extremely careful to keep the standoffs organized.

Thomas Rosebrough - Replica

Replacement connector to the logic board does not stay connected. Snaps in, but won’t stay on. Aligned the dots just fine. It’s not an alignment issue. The connector goes on just fine. It just doesn’t stay on.

Curt Shaffer - Replica

So to follow up, reconnecting and disconnecting everything down to the Lightning Connector Assembly itself about three times…no joy. Finally just closed the phone without the seals. I get the mic and the cellular connection…yeah. — But NO CHARGING. I get the “this accessory may not be supported” error message. — So what now “I Fix It”, huh? This whole process is a mess: from lack of proper instructions (coax cables not properly labeled. Some screws are different when labeled the same) and the kit you sell us is missing the Stand-Over screwdriver we need for the procedure! Your kit we paid for is incomplete, and we only find out once we’ve got the phone open. I didn’t fix it, and surely not with your help.

Curt Shaffer - Replica

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