Introduzione
Usa questa guida per sostituire la scheda madre del tuo iPhone.
Cosa ti serve
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Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di iniziare lo smontaggio.
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La cover posteriore del telefono potrebbe avere due viti a croce Phillips #000 o viti "Pentalobe" a 5 punte di Apple. Controlla quali viti hai e assicurati di avere anche il cacciavite corretto per rimuoverle.
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Rimuovi le due viti Pentalobe o Phillips #000 da 3,6 mm accanto al connettore dock.
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Spingi il pannello posteriore verso il lato superiore dell'iPhone.
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Rimuovi la singola vite a croce Philips da 1,5 mm che fissa il connettore della batteria alla scheda madre (se presente).
you do not need to take the battery out as chuck said so you dont run the risk of braking the battery connector socket from the logic board
Won't you need the battery removed to access the large-headed screws on the side which hold the front display?
Unfortunately the battery screw was already stripped probably from original assembly. We used a pair of nail clippers as pliers to grab a hold of the screw by the edges to turn it. If it hadn't have been for the stripped screw it would have taken us about 10 minutes, as it was it took us 30-40 minutes if you count searching for solutions for removing the stripped screw.
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Usa il bordo di uno strumento di apertura in plastica per sollevare delicatamente il connettore della batteria dal suo incavo sulla scheda logica.
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Rimuovi la clip metallica che copre il connettore dell'antenna.
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Solleva la linguetta di plastica trasparente esposta per staccare la batteria dall'adesivo che la fissa all'iPhone.
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Se è rimasta della soluzione alcolica nel telefono, puliscilo con cura o lascialo asciugare all'aria prima di installare la nuova batteria.
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Rimuovi la batteria.
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Prima del riassemblaggio, pulisci i punti di contatto metallo su metallo con uno sgrassante come windex. Gli oli delle dita possono potenzialmente causare problemi di interferenza wireless.
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Esegui un hard reset dopo il rimontaggio. Ciò può prevenire diversi problemi e semplificare la risoluzione dei problemi.
Note that the pull tab is not actually attached to the battery. It is attached to the iPhone chassis, and is only used to separate the battery from the adhesive. (Don't expect it to come out with the battery!)
Also, the adhesive is VERY strong. I had to use my plastic opening tool to assist in prying the battery loose. This is probably the most nerve-wracking part of the job.
It is much easier to slightly WARM the battery with a HAIRDRYER not a HEAT GUN to soften the adhesive. DO NOT GET BATTERY HOT AND DO NOT USE HEAT GUN
Joe -
I just did this today. Everything was as scripted. Mine had lots of adhesive and had to use plastic spudger to go around battery to loosen up. Do not use plastic tab until you can see under battery a little bit. Great instructions. Took less than 10 minutes.
The adhesive is very strong and I was initially worried about damaging the phone by prying so much. There are a couple of places below the volume switch where you can pry between the metal of the case and the battery. If you lift the battery just a little, wiggle the pry bar further in and then start moving down the case. Don't worry about bending the battery, its dead anyway.
Do not pry on the left side (circuit board side) and do not use the pull tab until the adhesive is broken loose.
I tried this at first with a plastic pry tool, and the adhesive was so strong that I broke the tool. I then used a large screwdriver and applied pressure very slowly along various places on the outer side of the battery. That eventually did the trick.
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Rimuovi le due viti a croce Phillips da 1,8 mm che fissano il cavo del connettore dock alla scheda logica.
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Rimuovi la sottile copertura del cavo del connettore dock in metallo.
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Rimuovi le seguenti cinque viti:
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Tre viti a croce Phillips da 1,3 mm
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Una vite a croce Phillips da 1,5 mm
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Una vite a croce Phillips da 2,4 mm
Careful here...On my phone, the little mounting screw boss (the part the screw threads into) of the top red-circled screw came unglued/welded from the underlying board, meaning the screw will no longer be able to be screwed back in.
The three 1.3 mm screws are very difficult to distinguish from the 1.5 mm screw. I spent a long time with a magnifying glass trying to tell them apart. For the other steps of the repair, I kept the screws in a tray compartment along with the piece that they connected, but for this step I recommend keeping each of the different types of screws separate.
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Usa il bordo di uno strumento di apertura in plastica per sollevare il connettore della fotocamera posteriore dalla sua presa sulla scheda logica.
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Rimuovi la fotocamera posteriore dall'iPhone.
Better to delay removing the camera and its cable until the Display and Digitizer cables are removed as there is an arm on the right side of the camera that slips under the other cables.
I agree with ed -- move the camera removal step until after Step 16, after the digitizer and display cables have been removed, as there is a tab/arm on the camera's cable that should go under these two cables during reassembly.
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Scollega i cinque cavi vicino alla parte superiore della scheda logica nel seguente ordine:
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Cavo jack per cuffie/pulsante del volume
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Cavo del pulsante di accensione
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Cavo della fotocamera frontale
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Cavo digitalizzatore
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Cavo dati display
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Per scollegare i cavi, usa il bordo di uno strumento di apertura in plastica per sollevare delicatamente i connettori verso l'alto e fuori dalle prese sulla scheda logica.
The Digitizer Cable on the new display seems to be too short. Trying to make it reach. It doesn't reach its place on the logic board. Going to disassemble and start over. (Step 15)
Any pointers?
What happened was there is a tab on the cable, and that didn't go all the way through the casing. I made this mistake about 3 times. It's not too short, just move the screen a little away from the casing, and pull the cable all the way through without ripping it.
⚠️ On reassembly, before plugging in the screen/digitizer cables, put the rear facing camera back in. There's a prong on the camera that lays underneath them.
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Rimuovi la vite a croce Phillips #000 da 1,5 mm vicino al jack delle cuffie.
take out screw on top of stand of first, then take of grounding plat, and then stand off.
This is correct.
Echoing the notes from 'boo' and Corey -- that's exactly what I saw too. Perhaps the guide should be updated?
This has been changed several times on the iphone 4 logic board manual, and the changes are always being reverted. There _IS_ a screw in step 16, but someone seems intent on not having it mentioned in the manual. Dunno why...
Because it's mentioned in Step 20.
It may have been mentioned in step 20 at some point, but it isn't anymore. The phillips head screw that's mentioned in step 20 is the one holding the grounding finger to the rear-facing camera corner of the motherboard.
That said, my concerns about step 16 have since been rectified, so I suppose step 20 could've been fixed at the same time.
There's a little rubber piece that you can see in the Step 17 & Step 21 pictures just above the yellow sticker. It fits over the edge of the board where the two ribbon cables from the display/digitizer come up through the board (Step 36). It's there to make sure the ribbon cables don't rub against the sharp edge of the board. This piece loves to fall out when pulling the logic board off. Make sure to put it back in when routing the cables in Step 36, thin edge on the bottom, thicker edge on the top.
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Solleva la piccola clip di messa a terra dalla scheda madre e rimuovila dall'iPhone.
Can you show how this piece attaches?
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Usa il bordo di uno strumento di apertura in plastica per scollegare il connettore del cavo dell'antenna Wi-Fi dalla scheda madre.
For me, aligning the connector when putting things back together was the most difficult part of this repair. Unlike reattachment of the radio antenna in step 11, it is very difficult to see whether the male/female are aligned properly before applying pressure. Unfortunately, I have no secret as to how to accomplish this, other than to say that my WiFi is working after the repair.
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Rimuovi la vite a croce Phillips #000 da 2,5 mm che fissa la scheda logica vicino al pulsante di accensione.
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Rimuovi la vite di distanziamento da 4,8 mm vicino al jack delle cuffie.
I’d use a Phillips 00 instead of a flathead
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Rimuovi la vite a croce Phillips da 3,4 mm vicino al motore della vibrazione.
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Rimuovi le due viti di distanziamento da 3,6 mm lungo il lato della scheda logica più vicino all'apertura della batteria.
When replacing the standoff screw closest to the dock connector, make sure it is tightened all the way down. The battery terminal screw fits in the standoff later, and if the standoff isn't tight (NOT TOO TIGHT!) then the battery will not be completely connected and your phone will power off unless tethered. This mimics a bad logic board symptom! Inspect this before replacing your logic board!
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Solleva con cautela la scheda logica dall'estremità più vicina all'involucro dell'altoparlante e falla scorrere lontano dal bordo superiore dell'iPhone.
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Rimuovi la scheda logica.
When I was attempting to reinstall the logic board (step 21 in reverse), a small rubber bumper came loose from 'somewhere' on the board (I think). It isn't visible in any of the photos, so I really have no idea where it came from!
I don't see it in the pictures either, but I'm pretty sure there is a black bumper that rides on the 'top' of the logic board. I believe it reduces friction between the display/digitizer cables and the top of the logic board.
You can see this "bumper" in steps 16 and 20 (right above the yellow sticker in the pics), and it provides relief for the digitizer and display cables as they both come up and around the edge of the logic board. I put my bumper with its thicker side down towards the inside of the phone and it worked fine.
The rubber bumper has a groove in it, which rides a notch along the top edge of the logic board. Its purpose is to ease pressure between the top of the phone and the board. If you look at the top of the frame, there is a little horizontal ridge about 0.8cm (3/8") long which is just the right width of the rubber bumper.
For reference:
Your images show incorrect placement of the rubber spacer. Step 20 shows correct placement. It is just above the scan code sticker on the motherboard. That is where the ribbon cables roll over, so it makes sense.
I assume the thick side would be facing the rear of the phone, but can not be sure.?
I wouldn't use Windex. It's mostly water. Why would anyone put water on a connection? Use isopropyl alcohol and be certain that it's at least 95% alcohol.
Better yet use contact cleaner or the original Brakleen (in the RED can). You can find the Brakleen at any automotive store.
I experienced that when the rubber spacer had the thick side up towards the rear of the phone, the display data cable would plug in but had enough pressure from the rubber bumper pushing up that it would eventually become partially unplugged. This may not be immediately apparent while putting the phone back together because of still being partially plugged in. This was not an issue when the thin side was installed facing up towards the back of the phone.
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Hope someone can ease my uncertainty: does the grounding finger for the
rear-facing camera go on TOP of the motherboard OR between the motherboard and
the standoff???
Under. There is nothing to ground if it went over the pcb. Look on the backside.
Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.
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