Introduzione
iPhone batteries degrade with use—over time, they lose their ability to hold a full charge. Apple's batteries are rated to hold 80% of their capacity for up to 500 charge cycles, which lasts roughly 18-24 months for most users. When your battery's chemistry is degraded, it may also cause your iPhone to run more slowly. Use this guide to replace your battery and restore your iPhone 11 to full performance.
If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Note: After the repair, your iPhone may display a warning about the “genuineness” of the battery, even when using original Apple parts. If your iPhone functions normally, you can safely ignore the warning.
For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.
You'll need replacement adhesive in order to complete this repair.
Cosa ti serve
Panoramica Video
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute.
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Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
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Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
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Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next two steps.
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap.
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Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
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Pull the small nub on the suction cup to detach it from the front panel.
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Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
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Prop the display up against something sturdy.
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To access the screws in the following step, tilt the display by slightly lifting its lower edge.
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Use a Y000 driver to remove the three 1.1 mm-long screws securing the battery connector bracket.
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Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally contacting the socket.
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Use a Y000 driver to remove the five 1.1 mm screws securing the logic board cover bracket.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the LCD panel cable connector.
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Disconnect the digitizer connector next to it.
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Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.
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Using a Phillips driver, remove the five screws securing the bracket below the Taptic engine and speaker:
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Four 1.6 mm screws
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One 1.3 mm screw
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Use tweezers to lift and remove the black tape and rubber pad covering the Taptic Engine connector.
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Remove the five screws securing the speaker and brackets:
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One 1.9 mm Phillips screw
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One 2.3 mm Phillips screw
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One 3.1 mm standoff screw
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Two 1.6 mm Phillips screws
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Remove the small grounding clip on the top right corner of the speaker.
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Remove the Taptic Engine connector cover.
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Lift and push aside the small board covering the remaining speaker screw in the bottom right corner of the iPhone.
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Remove the 2.4 mm standoff screw underneath.
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Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker, near the edge of the iPhone's case.
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Gently pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker.
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Remove the speaker.
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Peel away any remaining adhesive with tweezers.
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Prep the area underneath by cleaning it with a bit of isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter so that the gasket adheres properly.
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Install a new gasket onto the speaker, and then install the speaker.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 1.8 mm screws securing the Taptic Engine.
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Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.
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Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at one end, which is lightly adhered and folded onto the top of the battery.
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Peel back the three battery adhesive pull tabs from the bottom edge of the battery.
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To increase your odds of success:
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Don't press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.
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Keep the strips flat and unwrinkled as you pull.
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Pull very slowly, giving the strip time to stretch and separate. It takes around 30 seconds of stretching to remove each strip.
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Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn't snag along the bottom edge of the battery.
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If a strip does break off underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, move on to the other strips and then continue with the additional steps below.
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Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, towards the bottom of the iPhone.
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Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case.
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If the battery adhesive tabs break during the removal process, use your fingers or tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.
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If any of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the other strips, and then proceed as instructed below.
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Repeat the above steps to remove the other two adhesive strips near the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Peel back the three battery adhesive tabs from the top edge of the battery.
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Pull the top adhesive strips out one at a time, using the same method you've used to pull the bottom strips.
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If you removed all of the adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.
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If any of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, continue with the next step below.
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If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, remove it by adding a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) underneath the battery near the stuck strip(s).
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After about a minute, gently lift the battery.
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If your battery is stuck and an appropriate liquid solvent is not available, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.
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Flip the iPhone back over and thread a strong piece of string (such as dental floss or a length of thin guitar string) underneath the battery.
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Pull the string from side to side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive. This can take some time since the adhesive is slow to deform, but with patience it will come free. Do not deform or damage the battery.
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Start from the top or bottom edge of the battery, and pull toward the middle. Don't pull the string through the middle third of the battery, or you may damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath.
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Remove the battery.
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Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.
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If your new battery doesn’t have adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide to replace the adhesive strips.
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Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPhone 11 Answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPhone 11 Answers community for help.
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7 Commenti
Also, it would be nice to have a step by step of how to reprogram the new battery to bypass the “non-genuine warning”
I have been looking for a solution for this! Seems the only way is to remove the BMS board from the original battery. Requires soldering.
Apple specifically does this to prevent 3rd parties from repairing their products. A Simple google search would have yielded this.
La guida consiglia di rimuovere molte parti, in realtà basta solo rimuovere lo schermo ed acquistare una batteria già assemblata.
Io personalmente o impiegato 45 minuti andando molto lento e molto attento alle mie operazioni.
