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iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement

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  1. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement, iOpener Heating: passo 1, immagine 1 di 2 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement, iOpener Heating: passo 1, immagine 2 di 2
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Replica

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Replica

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Replica

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Replica

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Replica

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Replica

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Replica

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Replica

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Replica

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Replica

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Replica

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Replica

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Replica

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Replica

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Replica

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Replica

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Replica

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Replica

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Replica

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Replica

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Replica

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Replica

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Replica

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Replica

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Replica

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree - Replica

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler - Replica

    I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

    Tom Weber - Replica

    iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

    To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

    jharrison - Replica

    Can’t you just use a hair curler instead?

    Aspect22 - Replica

    A hairdryer or heat gun works, if heating is kept around 100 deg C (212 deg F - boiling point of water). But… heating this way is cumbersome. Using a hotplate, set to 100 deg C, measured carefully with a fairly inexpensive IR gun, is simpler and easier, if you can afford the hotplate (I used an old pancake griddle with a thermostat knob). It works great for phones, setting them face down for 2 minutes, then picking them up with insulated gloves - cheap, wool gloves work fine. This may require repeated reheating to continue the display removal, but its much simpler.

    Because its almost impossible to repeatedly lay an iPad/tablet on the hot plate, I propose an alternative.

    Initially lay the larger iPad/tablet, face down, for 2 min, to heat all of the adhesive surrounding the display. Lift and begin the picking process describe in your removal steps. Then lay an iOpener on the hotplate for 2 min (already set to the exact, desired temp) to bring it to working temp for the remaining operations.

    Dan Smith - Replica

    For iPads in particular, it makes sense to construct a simple, aluminum window frame, laid on a hotplate (see my comment above) that only touches the edges of the display, heating only the adhesive underneath. This prevents general heating of the entire device. Four strips of aluminum, placed together as a frame, would be the simplest and allow variations for all devices - envision it as a pinwheel of strips, radiating outward. Use it for any size device.

    Dan Smith - Replica

    BTW, always read all comments at each step. New, and possibly useful, suggestions appear on occasion that can be crucial.

    Dan Smith - Replica

  2. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 2, immagine 1 di 1
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst. Do not attempt to heat over 100˚C (212˚F).

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Replica

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Replica

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Replica

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Replica

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Replica

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Replica

    I agree with this.

    Jarl Friis -

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Replica

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Replica

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Replica

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Replica

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Replica

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Replica

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Replica

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Replica

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson - Replica

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Replica

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Replica

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Replica

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov - Replica

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl - Replica

    You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

    Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

    William Draheim - Replica

    Yeah, the iOpener didn't work for me either.... ended up using a hair dryer and that worked. The iOpener was too warm to soften the glue in my case.

    Andrés Vettori - Replica

  3. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 3, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Replica

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Replica

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Replica

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Replica

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Replica

    If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
    I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

    Jarl Friis - Replica

  4. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement, Alternate iOpener heating method: passo 4, immagine 1 di 2 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement, Alternate iOpener heating method: passo 4, immagine 2 di 2
    • If you don't have a microwave, follow this step to heat your iOpener in boiling water.

    • Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.

    • Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.

    • Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.

    • Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.

    • Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful to hold it only by the end tabs.

    • Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com - Replica

    Use a hair dryer

    Edited To the max - Replica

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia - Replica

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia - Replica

    Even if you don't put in a ziplock bag, I found that the surface is mostly hydrophobic so drying it is very easy. I also didn't have tongs, but the bag is denser than water, so it sank and I attached clothes pins to the ends and was able to remove it with those.

    Jack Adrian Zappa - Replica

    2-3 minutes in near boiling water, then 2-3 minutes on my s10+ and it was super easy to cut the glue off.

    Kipras Bielinskas - Replica

    I have a question, if I have a pan, and I have water, and a mean to boil the water, won't it be easier and cheaper to just use that.

    Ollie Tan - Replica

    Have you tried it? Water limits your temperature to 100℃, whereas 'pan on the stove' can easily get up to twice that. If your pan is even slightly warped, you'll have a few hot spots of direct conduction with convection everywhere else, heating things unevenly. Assuming you get the device up to temperature, how will you get it out without scratching it or burning yourself? After you're finished, do you really want to prepare food in the pan you warmed up adhesives and trace manufacturing substances in?

    .

    Boiling something form fitting to heat your device with is a lot more foolproof, and not being foolish is easier and cheaper. Direct pan heating can work, but you are leaving yourself open to a lot more problems than just taking the safe route.

    James Beegle -

  5. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement, Opening Procedure: passo 5, immagine 1 di 1
  6. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 6, immagine 1 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 6, immagine 2 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 6, immagine 3 di 3
    • Apply a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

    • Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

    • While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap.

    • Depending on the age of your device, this may be difficult. If you have trouble, apply more heat and try again.

    • Be careful to only lift the glass enough to insert an opening pick—any more and you risk cracking the glass.

  7. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 7, immagine 1 di 2 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 7, immagine 2 di 2
    • While holding the glass up with the suction cup, insert the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.

    • Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than 2 mm into the side of the display. Inserting the pick deeper than 2 mm could damage the backlight assembly, LCD display, or touchscreen.

    “Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.”

    Unfortunately, you only know you have inserted it too far when you have, and you start seeing little bubble veins form between the glass screen and the LCD.

    The adhesive can be very stiff/hard, and if pushing through it can result in the pick plunging into the LCD when the adhesive finally gives way.

    Take your time, use alot of heat, and if you need to try and push the pick in, try and do so in a slicing motion along the edge, use the wide edge, or hold the pick so that your finger will hit the edge of the screen before the pick tip will pass the bezel.

    lucanos - Replica

    Adhesive strips are only 1mm wide on sides. Up to 5mm wide top and bottom. I used the Isclack. Screen seemed ok bending without breaking. Worth looking for a photo of the replacement adhesive strips so you know what you have to separate. Be extra careful at the lower right corner where the cables are.

    ian cheong - Replica

    This is a failure of a guide as it doesn’t tell you to insert at a downward angle so you don’t potrude into the LCD… Now I have to spend more money to replace the screen as I pushed adhesive between the LCD and the screen even though I went no farther than a millimeter short of the screen...

    Alec - Replica

    can you open the right side if the left is too cracked to use a suction cup on?

    clark overhiser - Replica

    This guide needs amending urgently.

    You MUST NOT put the pick or whatever you are using more than 2mm under the sides of the screen, or you will cut through the adhesive tape securing the backlight assembly to the LCD glass.

    This will push adhesive into the viewable area of the LCD and cause the backlight assembly to no longer be secured against the LCD fully.

    I now need a new screen.

    This line below from the guide is absolutely INCORRECT and will ruin your expensive display:

    ”Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display.”

    The black bezel is 5mm to 6mm wide; you MUST NOT insert anything to that depth or you will destroy your display. 2mm maximum!

    jamesqb2001 - Replica

    thanks. will take this into account for my repair

    Adab Abu -

    I too damaged my display because of this absolute nonsense (The German version, which I used, still had this INCORRECT portion in it). I can't believe how long it took iFixit to update this, even though people have been reporting this for years on end. Sadly iFixit still haven't updated a variety of other things that are still at the very least high risk instructions. I just messaged them the other day, but they don't seem to care about or understand the remaining issues that this guide has. At least they updated one of the most severe things, but they just plainly told me 'I'm wrong' about the rest. I liked iFixit it so far, and I've worked on a variety of (difficult) repairs - but this experience was a very huge let down.

    Mac Stevenson -

    A few thoughts after opening a number of Mini 4’s.

    1) if the display is warm enough you can squeeze the digitizer and LCD back together after a minor incursion with the opening pick and it will reseal.

    2) I’ve started going in at the top just to the right of the camera (I use an iFlex to get in then switch to a pick). Then I run down either side with my fingers choked up on the pick so there only a mm or 2 sticking out. Usually after running down one side, I can get the display open enough to get the pick in behind the LCD when I do the other side

    Stow - Replica

  8. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 8, immagine 1 di 1
    • Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the left edge for a few minutes.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    If your iPad is cold, consider leaving the iOpener on for longer than 5 minutes. The aluminum housing is a very large thermally dissipating mass and will quickly cool off the glass and make you have to start over and wait the 10 minutes to reheat. There’s a very slim window in which you’re able to insert the pick into the glass adhesive before it solidifies once again. I’ve been fighting with it for like 20 minutes following these instructions and it’s not working. You really need to leave it for longer than just 5 minutes to get the back housing hot too.

    Crystal S - Replica

    Heat is essential. I used a 3d printer’s heated set at 65 degrees. Chris Storer’s stip above saved me as you really need to let it sit for quite a while to soften the adhesive. Since I was doing a battery change, I heated both sides as the aluminum back is a huge heatsink that really sucks up the heat. Don’t try forcing it; if the suction cup isn’t pulling a gap in the screen, leave it on the heater for additional time.

    garbage911garbage - Replica

    Love the 3d printer idea, I hadn’t thought of that! I have used a heat gun as well but you have to be very careful to not use too much heat. Also watch for inserting the pick too far, it is really easy to delaminate glass from the display!

    russ -

  9. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 9, immagine 1 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 9, immagine 2 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 9, immagine 3 di 3
    • Insert a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

    • Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance while sliding the pick, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.

    I have found that wedging a blue pry tool in between the frame and the glass can give you a better edge enough to slide the pick in.

    Crystal S - Replica

  10. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 10, immagine 1 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 10, immagine 2 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 10, immagine 3 di 3
    • Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

    • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

  11. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 11, immagine 1 di 2 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 11, immagine 2 di 2
    • Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

  12. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 12, immagine 1 di 1
    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

  13. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 13, immagine 1 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 13, immagine 2 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 13, immagine 3 di 3
    • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

  14. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 14, immagine 1 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 14, immagine 2 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 14, immagine 3 di 3
    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

    • As you reach the front-facing camera, pull the pick out slightly and continue sliding it across the top edge.

    • Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.

  15. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 15, immagine 1 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 15, immagine 2 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 15, immagine 3 di 3
    • Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

    • Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.

    • Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.

  16. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 16, immagine 1 di 2 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 16, immagine 2 di 2
    • Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

  17. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 17, immagine 1 di 1
    • Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

  18. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 18, immagine 1 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 18, immagine 2 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 18, immagine 3 di 3
    • Insert a new opening pick and slide it down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  19. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 19, immagine 1 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 19, immagine 2 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 19, immagine 3 di 3
    • Continue sliding the opening pick down the right edge of the iPad, reheating the edge using an iOpener if necessary.

    • Be careful not to slice too deep near the bottom right corner, or you risk damaging the display cable.

  20. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 20, immagine 1 di 1
    • Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.

    • Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every ten minutes.

    • Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

  21. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 21, immagine 1 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 21, immagine 2 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 21, immagine 3 di 3
    • Insert a new opening pick at the bottom right corner of the display, below the last opening pick you used to slice down the right edge.

    • Rotate the new pick around the lower right corner of the device.

  22. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 22, immagine 1 di 2 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 22, immagine 2 di 2
    • Slide the pick from the bottom right corner along the lower edge of the device. Stop about half an inch shy of the home button.

  23. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 23, immagine 1 di 2 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 23, immagine 2 di 2
    • Insert a final opening pick at the lower left corner of the iPad, directly below the existing one.

  24. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 24, immagine 1 di 2 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 24, immagine 2 di 2
    • Slide the pick around the lower left edge of the iPad.

  25. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 25, immagine 1 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 25, immagine 2 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 25, immagine 3 di 3
    • Continue sliding the pick at the lower left edge of the display toward the center of the iPad, until it is roughly half an inch from the home button.

  26. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 26, immagine 1 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 26, immagine 2 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 26, immagine 3 di 3
    • Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad to break up the last of the adhesive holding the display assembly in place.

    • Lift the display from the top edge to open the device.

    "Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPadTwist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad "

    When I did this twisting motion, and I thought I was being gentle, one of the picks cracked nearly in half. That adhesive is very strong! I probably did not cut into it far enough before applying the twisting to open the screen.

    jharrison - Replica

  27. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement, Battery Connector: passo 27, immagine 1 di 1
    • To avoid stressing any cables, hold the display assembly perpendicular to the body of the iPad until it is disconnected.

    • Remove the four 1.2 mm Phillips screws over the battery/display connector bracket.

    What you need to do is move the display inboard up to the edge area of battery! That will relieve all the stress on the cables. Simply holding it straight up is not enough, especially later when you go back to reconnect the cables and the bracket over the connectors.

    Fixrights - Replica

  28. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 28, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the battery/display cable bracket.

    Your bracket may look different to this. Mine had a black covering on the long edge being held between the fingers in this illustration. Same screws, same position, just a different color.

    lucanos - Replica

    Is it the end of the world if the bracket is not reinstalled, will the device function normally or will it eventually have issues with the connectors coming loose following shock?

    Thomas Langford - Replica

    Note that the left had side of the bracket hooks under a lip on the edge of the case. Always recommend to replace connector brackets. If you forget and leave it out, best to buy a new set of adhesive strips for the day when the connector comes loose.

    cheongi - Replica

  29. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 29, immagine 1 di 2 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 29, immagine 2 di 2
    • When disconnecting any press connectors from the logic board, be sure to lift the connector straight up to avoid ripping the socket off the board.

    • Use the flat tip of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery connector ribbon cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact and powering on the iPad.

    When i was starting to disconnect the lcd to the board i hit the black film and it lit and now even the new display wont display anything how to fix it? The black film near the lcd connector.

    tyroon_jul27 - Replica

  30. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: passo 30, immagine 1 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: passo 30, immagine 2 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: passo 30, immagine 3 di 3
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • When reconnecting these, press down from one end of the connector to the other. If you press in the middle of the connector, you may bend it, causing damage or a poor connection.

  31. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 31, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the display assembly.

    • To reinstall your display assembly, you will need to replace the display adhesive. Use our display adhesive application guide to reapply your display adhesive and reseal your device.

    Ich habe eine Bücherstütze benutzt um das Display in senkrechter Position zu halten, während ich die vier Schräubchen gelöst habe.. So zieht man nicht so an den Flexkabeln….!

    Fridtjof Schüssler - Replica

    Because the 3-piece adhesive strips shown in the Display Adhesive Application Guide link were different from iPad Mini 4 Adhesive Strips (item code IF316-013-1), it wasn't easy to figure out the exact location of the bottom adhesive. It would be helpful to include a separate application guide or an additional picture showing the exact location of each strip) on the guide.

    Christian Kim - Replica

  32. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement, Home Button Assembly: passo 32, immagine 1 di 2 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement, Home Button Assembly: passo 32, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the home button ZIF socket.

  33. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 33, immagine 1 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 33, immagine 2 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 33, immagine 3 di 3
    • Use tweezers to unplug the home button ribbon cable from the ZIF socket.

    • Continue peeling the ribbon cable up to the EMI shield.

  34. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 34, immagine 1 di 2 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 34, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use tweezers to lift the home button control hardware module off the display assembly.

  35. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 35, immagine 1 di 2 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 35, immagine 2 di 2
    • Use an opening pick to continue separating the home button ribbon cable from the display assembly.

    • If you use metal tools to separate this cable, you may scratch the iPad glass, removing some paint.

  36. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 36, immagine 1 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 36, immagine 2 di 3 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 36, immagine 3 di 3
    • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the home button bracket off the display assembly.

    • When replacing this bracket, it's recommended to use some high-bond tape to secure it.

    The tip about the high-bond tape is great, but high-bond tape is something that should be mentioned at the beginning in the list of supplies we need. Because I have the whole thing taken apart, and now I’m told I need something that I don’t have on hand. So what am I supposed to do, just let everything sit around open, until I get to the store to see if they have some high-bond tape?

    Robb M - Replica

  37. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 37, immagine 1 di 1
    • Heat an iOpener and lay it over the lower edge of the front panel to soften the adhesive holding the home button in place.

    what is another option if you dont have heat iopener

    premal06 - Replica

    A hairdryer and much patience

    BeLeFu -

  38. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 38, immagine 1 di 2 iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 38, immagine 2 di 2
    • The home button is held in place by a thin, delicate, rubber gasket that is mildly adhered to the front panel.

    • Slowly push the home button up and out of the display assembly to separate the gasket from the front panel.

    • Be careful to not push the gasket past its tearing point. If the adhesive is adequately heated, it will separate from the front panel with some gentle pressure.

  39. iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi Home Button Assembly Replacement: passo 39, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the home button assembly.

    What is the proper way to reinstall the home button bracket?

    chris crawford - Replica

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Altre 26 persone hanno completato questa guida.

Evan Noronha

Membro da: 02/05/15

223.241 Reputazione

168 Guide realizzate

5 Commenti

Is the piece of tape connecting the HB cable to the bracket important?

Perrin Aybara - Replica

Home Button still does not work after home button transfer and digitizer replacement.

MC EnderFromVN - Replica

there is a tiny black circle on the actual button underneath the kapton tape. if that isnt properly lined up it will not depress properly. also if the collar isnt perfect the home button will not sit correctly and popout. its a pretty crappy design by apple.

jsox79 -

I agree crappy design, i tried realigning button several times, best i got was “sort of works”

josh - Replica

It took me several attempts - but I eventually got mine to work perfectly. I had put glue on the bracket - since there was glue on the old one - but that made the gap too wide, so it wasn’t seating the home button right. I also had a replacement that had a slightly bent plug for the touch - so it wasn’t seating properly and the touchscreen was not consistent. I eventually got it all seated (the connector and the home button). Then it worked like a charm. Thanks for the guide.

Jason Kolberg - Replica

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