Introduzione
Segui i passi in questa guida per sostituire il gruppo schermo dell'iPad mini 4, incluso lo schermo LCD e il vetro del digitalizzatore.
Questa procedura prevede la rimozione dello schermo e il trasferimento del pulsante home sul nuovo componente. Per mantenere le funzionalità del Touch ID devi assolutamente trasferire il tuo bottone originale sul nuovo schermo.
In base al componente che hai comprato, potrebbe essere necessario trasferire anche i sensori sleep/wake per le Smart Cover: questa parte della procedura richiede di dissaldare cavi.
Parti di questa guida sono stati fatti con un modello Wi-Fi e per questo alcune foto dei componenti interni sono leggermente diverse dal modello LTE. La procedura è la stessa per entrambi i modelli, a eccezione di dove segnalato.
Cosa ti serve
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Se il vetro del display è rotto, l'uso del nastro adesivo sulla superficie impedisce alla rottura di espandersi e previene danni fisici dovuti alle schegge di vetro.
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Stendi delle strisce sovrapposte di nastro adesivo da pacchi trasparente sul display dell'iPad fino a coprire l'intera superficie. Per rotture molto serie, può essere necessario applicare due strati di nastro sovrapposti.
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Cerca di seguire al meglio il resto della guida. Tuttavia, una volta che il vetro è crepato, continuerà a rompersi sempre di più mentre procederai alla riparazione. Potresti aver bisogno di strumenti metallici per rimuovere il vetro.
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Scalda un iOpener e appoggialo al bordo sinistro per due minuti.
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Mentre tieni sollevato il vetro con la ventosa, inserisci la punta di un plettro nella fessura tra il vetro e il corpo dell'iPad.
“Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.”
Unfortunately, you only know you have inserted it too far when you have, and you start seeing little bubble veins form between the glass screen and the LCD.
The adhesive can be very stiff/hard, and if pushing through it can result in the pick plunging into the LCD when the adhesive finally gives way.
Take your time, use alot of heat, and if you need to try and push the pick in, try and do so in a slicing motion along the edge, use the wide edge, or hold the pick so that your finger will hit the edge of the screen before the pick tip will pass the bezel.
Adhesive strips are only 1mm wide on sides. Up to 5mm wide top and bottom. I used the Isclack. Screen seemed ok bending without breaking. Worth looking for a photo of the replacement adhesive strips so you know what you have to separate. Be extra careful at the lower right corner where the cables are.
This is a failure of a guide as it doesn’t tell you to insert at a downward angle so you don’t potrude into the LCD… Now I have to spend more money to replace the screen as I pushed adhesive between the LCD and the screen even though I went no farther than a millimeter short of the screen...
can you open the right side if the left is too cracked to use a suction cup on?
This guide needs amending urgently.
You MUST NOT put the pick or whatever you are using more than 2mm under the sides of the screen, or you will cut through the adhesive tape securing the backlight assembly to the LCD glass.
This will push adhesive into the viewable area of the LCD and cause the backlight assembly to no longer be secured against the LCD fully.
I now need a new screen.
This line below from the guide is absolutely INCORRECT and will ruin your expensive display:
”Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display.”
The black bezel is 5mm to 6mm wide; you MUST NOT insert anything to that depth or you will destroy your display. 2mm maximum!
thanks. will take this into account for my repair
Adab Abu -
I too damaged my display because of this absolute nonsense (The German version, which I used, still had this INCORRECT portion in it). I can't believe how long it took iFixit to update this, even though people have been reporting this for years on end. Sadly iFixit still haven't updated a variety of other things that are still at the very least high risk instructions. I just messaged them the other day, but they don't seem to care about or understand the remaining issues that this guide has. At least they updated one of the most severe things, but they just plainly told me 'I'm wrong' about the rest. I liked iFixit it so far, and I've worked on a variety of (difficult) repairs - but this experience was a very huge let down.
A few thoughts after opening a number of Mini 4’s.
1) if the display is warm enough you can squeeze the digitizer and LCD back together after a minor incursion with the opening pick and it will reseal.
2) I’ve started going in at the top just to the right of the camera (I use an iFlex to get in then switch to a pick). Then I run down either side with my fingers choked up on the pick so there only a mm or 2 sticking out. Usually after running down one side, I can get the display open enough to get the pick in behind the LCD when I do the other side
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Scalda di nuovo e riappoggia l'iOpener sul bordo sinistro per qualche minuto.
If your iPad is cold, consider leaving the iOpener on for longer than 5 minutes. The aluminum housing is a very large thermally dissipating mass and will quickly cool off the glass and make you have to start over and wait the 10 minutes to reheat. There’s a very slim window in which you’re able to insert the pick into the glass adhesive before it solidifies once again. I’ve been fighting with it for like 20 minutes following these instructions and it’s not working. You really need to leave it for longer than just 5 minutes to get the back housing hot too.
Heat is essential. I used a 3d printer’s heated set at 65 degrees. Chris Storer’s stip above saved me as you really need to let it sit for quite a while to soften the adhesive. Since I was doing a battery change, I heated both sides as the aluminum back is a huge heatsink that really sucks up the heat. Don’t try forcing it; if the suction cup isn’t pulling a gap in the screen, leave it on the heater for additional time.
Love the 3d printer idea, I hadn’t thought of that! I have used a heat gun as well but you have to be very careful to not use too much heat. Also watch for inserting the pick too far, it is really easy to delaminate glass from the display!
russ -
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Lascia il plettro infilato nell'iPad leggermente dopo la fotocamera.
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Prendi un secondo plettro ed infilalo a sinistra della fotocamera, dove sei già passato col primo plettro. Fallo scorrere verso l'angolo in alto a sinistra per tagliare del tutto l'adesivo rimasto.
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Lascia il secondo plettro sotto l'angolo per evitare che l'adesivo si reincolli raffreddandosi.
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Ruota i due plettri sotto il bordo superiore dell'iPad per separare l'adesivo restante che tiene fermo lo schermo.
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Solleva lo schermo dal bordo superiore per aprire il dispositivo.
"Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPadTwist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad "
When I did this twisting motion, and I thought I was being gentle, one of the picks cracked nearly in half. That adhesive is very strong! I probably did not cut into it far enough before applying the twisting to open the screen.
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Rimuovi le quattro viti Phillips da 1,2 mm sopra la staffa del connettore della batteria/schermo.
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Rimuovi la staffa che copre il cavo della batteria/schermo.
Is it the end of the world if the bracket is not reinstalled, will the device function normally or will it eventually have issues with the connectors coming loose following shock?
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Usa la parte piatta dello spudger per scollegare il connettore della batteria dal suo socket sulla scheda logica.
When i was starting to disconnect the lcd to the board i hit the black film and it lit and now even the new display wont display anything how to fix it? The black film near the lcd connector.
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Usa l'estremità appuntita di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore dei dati dello schermo dal suo alloggiamento sulla scheda logica.
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Usa l'estremità appuntita di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore del digitalizzatore dal suo alloggiamento sulla scheda logica.
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Rimuovi il gruppo schermo.
Ich habe eine Bücherstütze benutzt um das Display in senkrechter Position zu halten, während ich die vier Schräubchen gelöst habe.. So zieht man nicht so an den Flexkabeln….!
Because the 3-piece adhesive strips shown in the Display Adhesive Application Guide link were different from iPad Mini 4 Adhesive Strips (item code IF316-013-1), it wasn't easy to figure out the exact location of the bottom adhesive. It would be helpful to include a separate application guide or an additional picture showing the exact location of each strip) on the guide.
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Usa la punta di uno spudger per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del tasto Home.
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Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per fare leva sul supporto del tasto Home dal gruppo dello schermo.
The tip about the high-bond tape is great, but high-bond tape is something that should be mentioned at the beginning in the list of supplies we need. Because I have the whole thing taken apart, and now I’m told I need something that I don’t have on hand. So what am I supposed to do, just let everything sit around open, until I get to the store to see if they have some high-bond tape?
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Rimuovi il gruppo del tasto Home.
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Analizza la tua componente nuova e il tuo schermo originale per essere sicuro che siano compatibili.
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Il tuo schermo nuovo potrebbe non essere dotato dei sensori sleep/wake necessari per la Smart Cover. Se vuoi continuare ad avere questa funzionalità dovrai trasferire i componenti necessari.
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Dissalda i sei collegamenti dalla parte inferiore sinistra dello schermo per rimuovere il gruppo di sensori.
This is an important step that’s missed by a lot of people resulting in negative reviews on replacement screens. Screen suppliers never mention this step or people would not buy from them. Save yourself a headache and time and buy a screen-digitizer with the sleep/wake sensor already soldered.
Is there any reason to replace this if you won’t use it? If I don’t move over the old sensor, will it still work? I’ve never soldered something this small and expensive before.
hab es ohne gemacht, da es auch keine lötstellen gibt - seither gibt es gar keine Standyby funktion mehr!
LÖSUNG: in den Systemeinstellungen “anzeige und Helligkeit” Sperren/entsperren deaktivieren.
junk -
Was meinst du damit “weil es keine Lötstellen gibt”? Sind auf deinem neuen Display keine Lötstellen gewesen wo du den Sensor hättest dran löten können?
Funktioniert dein Lösungsweg für dich noch: “anzeige und Helligkeit” Sperren/entsperren deaktivieren“ ?
Ich stehe vor der gleichen Herausforderung und will ungern löten und würde mich über eine Antwort freuen :/
I replace my iPad mini 4 screen-digitizer and did not have to replace this sensor because it did not have one, but the new screen-digitizer came with the sleep/wake sensor in place. Small electronics needs careful and tedious work. Thanks iFixit for the instructions to fix my iPad. I have to mention that I am a technician from the old school.
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Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni nell'ordine inverso.
Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni nell'ordine inverso.
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3 Commenti
Please post a caution about the home button ribbon cable. I was removing it from an extremely damaged screen and I accidentally slightly ripped it. Now I’m not sure what to do :( If I had known about the problems associated with changing a touch ID home button I would have been 100x more cautious but I’ve only ever had to fix my Mini 2 before so this wasn’t an issue.
I have an iFixit replacement screen (C-stock) that has some existing adhesive already on it, but there are a few parts of the adhesive that are folded over on itself. I also have replacement adhesive. Two questions:
Should I replace the existing, possibly-worn adhesive with new adhesive, or is it better to stay with the already-applied adhesive?
Should I warm up the adhesive when I’m applying the screen back onto the body? Or should I keep it room-temperature?
Just want to say Thank you for for the guide and what i can only describe as the perfect pctures to go along! Nice1
