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Introduzione
Segui i passi in questa guida per sostituire una batteria difettosa, vecchia, o gonfia, in un iPad mini 4 LTE.
Le batterie agli ioni di litio contengono dei pericolosi composti chimici e potrebbero prendere fuoco ed esplodere se forate o maneggiate incorrettamente. Stai attento e segui tutte le avvertenze.
Se la tua batteria è gonfia, prendi le precauzioni appropriate.
Alcune immagini di questa guida ritraggono un modello Wi-Fi e, di conseguenza, i componenti possono sembrare leggermente diversi dal modello LTE. La procedura è la stessa per entrambi i modelli tranne dove specificato.
Cosa ti serve
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Se il vetro del display è rotto, l'uso del nastro adesivo sulla superficie impedisce alla rottura di espandersi e previene danni fisici dovuti alle schegge di vetro.
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Stendi delle strisce sovrapposte di nastro adesivo da pacchi trasparente sul display dell'iPad fino a coprire l'intera superficie. Per rotture molto serie, può essere necessario applicare due strati di nastro sovrapposti.
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Cerca di seguire al meglio il resto della guida. Tuttavia, una volta che il vetro è crepato, continuerà a rompersi sempre di più mentre procederai alla riparazione. Potresti aver bisogno di strumenti metallici per rimuovere il vetro.
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Scalda un iOpener e appoggialo al bordo sinistro per due minuti.
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Mentre tieni sollevato il vetro con la ventosa, inserisci la punta di un plettro nella fessura tra il vetro e il corpo dell'iPad.
“Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.”
Unfortunately, you only know you have inserted it too far when you have, and you start seeing little bubble veins form between the glass screen and the LCD.
The adhesive can be very stiff/hard, and if pushing through it can result in the pick plunging into the LCD when the adhesive finally gives way.
Take your time, use alot of heat, and if you need to try and push the pick in, try and do so in a slicing motion along the edge, use the wide edge, or hold the pick so that your finger will hit the edge of the screen before the pick tip will pass the bezel.
Adhesive strips are only 1mm wide on sides. Up to 5mm wide top and bottom. I used the Isclack. Screen seemed ok bending without breaking. Worth looking for a photo of the replacement adhesive strips so you know what you have to separate. Be extra careful at the lower right corner where the cables are.
This is a failure of a guide as it doesn’t tell you to insert at a downward angle so you don’t potrude into the LCD… Now I have to spend more money to replace the screen as I pushed adhesive between the LCD and the screen even though I went no farther than a millimeter short of the screen...
can you open the right side if the left is too cracked to use a suction cup on?
This guide needs amending urgently.
You MUST NOT put the pick or whatever you are using more than 2mm under the sides of the screen, or you will cut through the adhesive tape securing the backlight assembly to the LCD glass.
This will push adhesive into the viewable area of the LCD and cause the backlight assembly to no longer be secured against the LCD fully.
I now need a new screen.
This line below from the guide is absolutely INCORRECT and will ruin your expensive display:
”Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display.”
The black bezel is 5mm to 6mm wide; you MUST NOT insert anything to that depth or you will destroy your display. 2mm maximum!
thanks. will take this into account for my repair
Adab Abu -
I too damaged my display because of this absolute nonsense (The German version, which I used, still had this INCORRECT portion in it). I can't believe how long it took iFixit to update this, even though people have been reporting this for years on end. Sadly iFixit still haven't updated a variety of other things that are still at the very least high risk instructions. I just messaged them the other day, but they don't seem to care about or understand the remaining issues that this guide has. At least they updated one of the most severe things, but they just plainly told me 'I'm wrong' about the rest. I liked iFixit it so far, and I've worked on a variety of (difficult) repairs - but this experience was a very huge let down.
A few thoughts after opening a number of Mini 4’s.
1) if the display is warm enough you can squeeze the digitizer and LCD back together after a minor incursion with the opening pick and it will reseal.
2) I’ve started going in at the top just to the right of the camera (I use an iFlex to get in then switch to a pick). Then I run down either side with my fingers choked up on the pick so there only a mm or 2 sticking out. Usually after running down one side, I can get the display open enough to get the pick in behind the LCD when I do the other side
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Scalda di nuovo e riappoggia l'iOpener sul bordo sinistro per qualche minuto.
If your iPad is cold, consider leaving the iOpener on for longer than 5 minutes. The aluminum housing is a very large thermally dissipating mass and will quickly cool off the glass and make you have to start over and wait the 10 minutes to reheat. There’s a very slim window in which you’re able to insert the pick into the glass adhesive before it solidifies once again. I’ve been fighting with it for like 20 minutes following these instructions and it’s not working. You really need to leave it for longer than just 5 minutes to get the back housing hot too.
Heat is essential. I used a 3d printer’s heated set at 65 degrees. Chris Storer’s stip above saved me as you really need to let it sit for quite a while to soften the adhesive. Since I was doing a battery change, I heated both sides as the aluminum back is a huge heatsink that really sucks up the heat. Don’t try forcing it; if the suction cup isn’t pulling a gap in the screen, leave it on the heater for additional time.
Love the 3d printer idea, I hadn’t thought of that! I have used a heat gun as well but you have to be very careful to not use too much heat. Also watch for inserting the pick too far, it is really easy to delaminate glass from the display!
russ -
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Lascia il plettro infilato nell'iPad leggermente dopo la fotocamera.
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Prendi un secondo plettro ed infilalo a sinistra della fotocamera, dove sei già passato col primo plettro. Fallo scorrere verso l'angolo in alto a sinistra per tagliare del tutto l'adesivo rimasto.
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Lascia il secondo plettro sotto l'angolo per evitare che l'adesivo si reincolli raffreddandosi.
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Ruota i due plettri sotto il bordo superiore dell'iPad per separare l'adesivo restante che tiene fermo lo schermo.
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Solleva lo schermo dal bordo superiore per aprire il dispositivo.
"Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPadTwist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad "
When I did this twisting motion, and I thought I was being gentle, one of the picks cracked nearly in half. That adhesive is very strong! I probably did not cut into it far enough before applying the twisting to open the screen.
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Rimuovi le quattro viti Phillips da 1,2 mm sopra la staffa del connettore della batteria/schermo.
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Rimuovi la staffa che copre il cavo della batteria/schermo.
Is it the end of the world if the bracket is not reinstalled, will the device function normally or will it eventually have issues with the connectors coming loose following shock?
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Usa la parte piatta dello spudger per scollegare il connettore della batteria dal suo socket sulla scheda logica.
When i was starting to disconnect the lcd to the board i hit the black film and it lit and now even the new display wont display anything how to fix it? The black film near the lcd connector.
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Usa l'estremità appuntita di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore dei dati dello schermo dal suo alloggiamento sulla scheda logica.
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Usa l'estremità appuntita di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore del digitalizzatore dal suo alloggiamento sulla scheda logica.
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Rimuovi il gruppo schermo.
Ich habe eine Bücherstütze benutzt um das Display in senkrechter Position zu halten, während ich die vier Schräubchen gelöst habe.. So zieht man nicht so an den Flexkabeln….!
Because the 3-piece adhesive strips shown in the Display Adhesive Application Guide link were different from iPad Mini 4 Adhesive Strips (item code IF316-013-1), it wasn't easy to figure out the exact location of the bottom adhesive. It would be helpful to include a separate application guide or an additional picture showing the exact location of each strip) on the guide.
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Riscalda il tuo iOpener.
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Appoggia l'iPad a faccia in giù sulla tua superficie di lavoro ed appoggia l'iOpener sul retro della copertura, dove si trova il bordo inferiore della batteria.
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Nei prossimi passaggi dovrai tagliare l'adesivo sotto la batteria e rimuoverla dalla copertura posteriore.
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L'adesivo è disposto come mostrato in questa immagine: due strisce lungo i bordi lunghi, e due più corte perpendicolari nel centro.
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Per evitare di danneggiare la batteria, usa degli strumenti in plastica, calore e pazienza. Non forare, piegare, o surriscaldare la batteria.
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Non fare leva vicino alla scheda madre, o potresti danneggiare il tuo iPad.
The only tape adhesive kit that iFixit sells is incomplete for the cellular model. The are five extra small pieces of tape that go inboard around the cellular antenna. You will need to request another tape kit from iFixit, like I recently did, to cut custom pieces for that section. Amazingly I got pushback on that and was told that their kit is correct for the cellular model too, even after showing clear and obvious closeup photos of the leftover adhesive in those sections. That’s inexcusable for a repair site!
In general the tape of the battery to open is more work and need more head the the Display. The Headsink of the backhousing and batterie itself is big.. I in the end used an big hot air dryer to heat up the backside of the Pad!!
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Infila una terza scheda in plastica tra la prima e la seconda, questa volta allineata con il bordo sinistro della batteria.
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Continua a tagliare l'adesivo sotto la batteria fino a liberarla.
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Scalda di nuovo e riappoggia il tuo iOpener quando sollevare diventa difficile. Assicurati di aspettare che l'iOpener si raffreddi tra un riscaldamento e l'altro.
The iopener kit only includes 2 cards
That’s what old credit cards are for.
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Rimuovi la batteria.
Reassembling it is not simply a matter of following the reverse of the disassembly instructions. You need to clean off all the adhesive tape pieces and residue. That is by far the most time consuming and potentially damaging part of this job. The adhesive will be very difficult to get off in some places. I use a combination of blow dryer with low heat, the pointed end if the plastic prying stick to rub it off, chiseled cut pieces of pencil eraser sticks, to rub it down even more, then finally, and very, very carefully, alcohol to get the residue off. Just wet enough on cotton cloth and cotton swabs to wipe but not to have it seep into delicate areas! Rub along and outboard of the edge of the display only to avoid damaging edge. It you don’t remove all the tape pieces and residue and have a clean and level result for the new tape then the display will not only not sit flush like a new iPad but it will not stick well!
Cellular model users see my important comment about thecelluar model in the beginning of the guide!
One big hint will be first to fix the batterie connector in the socket before You “drope” the battery in place! The new battery is a little bit smaller and if the battery ist fixed on the bottom, You have no chance to connect the plug without any damaging the socket!!!
One more hint conerning the tape which fix the Glass in the frame: I used the old tape and looked only that its “nearly undistroyed”.
A few overstreched pieces i cut away. It works fine!! After fixation in the frame of the Pad I heated up the whole Pad with a Hairdryer and pressed together again! Looks good !
Thanks general for this Documentation - Evan! ……..
For those worrying about glue residue, use pure IPA to soften the glue. Makes it very easy to remove. I also get it behind batteries when trying to remove them, they come unstuck much easier
You can clearly see there are four pieces of Plastic cards. In the kit there are only two. what would help would be a plastic card that is at least three times longer, so that it can be pressed bellow the battery.
You can make really short work of the glue residue by using Goo Gone. Spray it on a cotton cloth first sparingly (not on the device) and wipe it on the glue areas. It will come up very quickly. Then take a dry paper towel to ensure you don't leave any Goo Gone residual.
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Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.
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7 Commenti
This guide says ABSOLUTELY NOTHING about where the display and digitizer cables are connected. NO warning to be extremely careful in the bottom right corner where the display is connected. I was under the impression that I could stick a pick in to every corner of the iPad which is NOT the case. I’m just disappointed that because of this error in explanation I now have to buy a replacement screen. I hope the author and others performing this repair see this and let me be the person to screw up my screen not you! Again, disappointed!
Hi Karl,
I’m really sorry to hear that! I will add warnings to the appropriate steps to hopefully help mitigate this issue. If you purchased the screen from iFixit, please contact our support team at help.ifixit.com!
Exactly same happen to me! Replaced the battery, the iPad mini cannot be started. Just showing stripes on the display. I’ve read this instructions a few times but seems to missed the cables as well.. Too bad it was my kids’ iPad.
I would like to see one video showing how to open the ipad-mini 4 using the IOpener. Is there any?
