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Introduzione

Use this guide to open your iPad Mini 2 LTE and replace the display.

Parts of this guide were shot with a Wi-Fi model and as such the internals may look slightly different from the LTE model. The procedure is the same for both models except where noted.

  1. We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Replica

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Replica

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Replica

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Replica

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - Replica

    Video seems to have been removed from YouTube.

    Rex Burrus -

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Replica

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Replica

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - Replica

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?

    Regards,

    Cedric

    Cedric VINCENT - Replica

    My microwave just died, can i heat it with boiled water?

    Alex COLOMBANI - Replica

    Taping as shown is impractical when using hair dryer method—tape simply comes off in the heat and gets in way of getting out the shards on the sides. If the thing wasn’t shattered, then taping unnecessary.

    B. A. Computer Services - Replica

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Replica

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Replica

    The “Galaxy S8 Replacement Battery” that you are selling with the kit is the wrong battery, the one that you are selling is a 3000mAh (which is the wrong amperage) as the OEM Samsung Galaxy S8 battery is “Model #: EB-BG892ABA / 4000mAh / Normal Voltage: 3.85V / Charge Voltage: 4.4V / A/S: 1588-3366 4000mAh 15.0Wh

    stevengenat - Replica

  2. Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - Replica

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Replica

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Replica

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - Replica

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - Replica

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - Replica

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - Replica

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - Replica

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - Replica

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Replica

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Replica

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Replica

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Replica

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Replica

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Replica

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Replica

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Replica

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Replica

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Replica

  3. Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - Replica

    Can you use an oven instead?

    Rafael -

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - Replica

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Replica

  4. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

  5. Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.
    • Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

    • Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

  6. Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side. Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal. While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
    • Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

    • Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

    • While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.

    • Be careful to only lift the glass enough to insert an opening pick—any more and you risk cracking the glass.

  7. While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad. Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD. Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
    • While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.

    • Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

    • Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

  8. Reheat and reapply the iOpener.
    • Reheat and reapply the iOpener.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.

  9. Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass.
    • Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

    • Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass.

  10. Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
    • Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

    • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

  11. Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad. If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off. If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
    • Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

    • If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

  12. Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

  13. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
    • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

  14. Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera. The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad. Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.
    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

    • The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.

    • Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.

  15. Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge. Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge. Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.
    • Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

  16. Kit di riparazione per Android

    Un nuovo schermo o una nuova batteria sono ad un kit di distanza.

    Acquista ora

    Kit di riparazione per Android

    Un nuovo schermo o una nuova batteria sono ad un kit di distanza.

    Acquista ora
  17. Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera. Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive. Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.
    • Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

    • Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.

    • Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.

  18. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner. Be very careful of the small antenna cable near the upper-right corner. Only slide the pick away from the camera—while sliding it in the opposite direction you may accidentally tear the antenna cable. Be very careful of the small antenna cable near the upper-right corner. Only slide the pick away from the camera—while sliding it in the opposite direction you may accidentally tear the antenna cable.
    • Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

    • Be very careful of the small antenna cable near the upper-right corner. Only slide the pick away from the camera—while sliding it in the opposite direction you may accidentally tear the antenna cable.

  19. Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
    • Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

  20. Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass. Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.
    • Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass.

    • Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

  21. Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
    • Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  22. Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive. Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive. Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.
    • Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.

  23. Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.
    • Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.

    • Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every ten minutes.

    • Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

  24. Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner. Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad. There are quite a few things to avoid beneath the lower bezel, so study the third image closely:
    • Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.

    • Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.

    • There are quite a few things to avoid beneath the lower bezel, so study the third image closely:

    • Antennas

    • Home button cavity

    • Digitizer cable

    • The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

  25. Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing. With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button. Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.
    • Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

    • With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.

    • Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.

    • If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.

    • Leave the pick in place before moving on.

  26. Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step's pick, and slide it beneath the home button. Stop about an inch from the right-hand side to avoid cutting the digitizer cable. Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.
    • Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step's pick, and slide it beneath the home button.

    • Stop about an inch from the right-hand side to avoid cutting the digitizer cable.

    • Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.

    • Again, be sure to only slide the pick toward the center of the iPad when it is fully inserted; otherwise you may damage the antenna beneath the glass.

  27. Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.
    • Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.

  28. Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat. At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.
    • Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.

    • At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.

    • If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, stop twisting. Leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas, and run a pick through the sticking point one more time.

  29. Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge. Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.
    • Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.

  30. Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace. Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.
    • Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.

  31. The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it. Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel. Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.
    • The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it.

    • Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel.

    • Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.

  32. Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD: Three 3.3 mm screws
    • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD:

    • Three 3.3 mm screws

    • One 4.5 mm screw

    • If there is tape covering any LCD screws, peel it up with tweezers.

    I used the PH000 bit; PH00 was too large.

    Yoron - Replica

  33. Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end. Insert the flat end of a spudger under the LCD between it and the LCD shield plate and lift gently.
    • Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger under the LCD between it and the LCD shield plate and lift gently.

    • Be very careful not to get the spudger under the shield plate. It must be between the LCD and the shield.

    • Even bending the LCD slightly can permanently damage it, so be extremely careful as you lift.

  34. The LCD is secured by mild adhesive that should be loosened before you flip the LCD up from its shield plate. Insert the spudger between the LCD and LCD shield plate and slide it to the far edge of the iPad. Insert the spudger between the LCD and LCD shield plate and slide it to the far edge of the iPad.
    • The LCD is secured by mild adhesive that should be loosened before you flip the LCD up from its shield plate.

    • Insert the spudger between the LCD and LCD shield plate and slide it to the far edge of the iPad.

  35. Two wide strips of tape connect the LCD to the speakers. Hold the LCD with one hand, and the rear body of the iPad with the other.
    • Two wide strips of tape connect the LCD to the speakers.

    • Hold the LCD with one hand, and the rear body of the iPad with the other.

    • Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD from the iPad.

    • Gently pull the LCD away from the speakers to separate the tape, being careful not to pull on the digitizer cable.

  36. Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end. Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
    • Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.

    • Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.

    • Be gentle and keep an eye on the LCD cables as you flip the display over.

    • Lay the LCD on the front panel glass to allow access to the display cables.

  37. Slide the tip of a spudger between the LCD and the adhesive tabs to free the display. Push gently between each of the two adhesive tabs; be careful not to damage any of the nearby cables. Push gently between each of the two adhesive tabs; be careful not to damage any of the nearby cables.
    • Slide the tip of a spudger between the LCD and the adhesive tabs to free the display.

    • Push gently between each of the two adhesive tabs; be careful not to damage any of the nearby cables.

  38. Remove the seven 1.8 mm Phillips #00 screws from the LCD shield plate.
    • Remove the seven 1.8 mm Phillips #00 screws from the LCD shield plate.

  39. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD shield plate up and out of the iPad. Remove the LCD shield plate. Remove the LCD shield plate.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD shield plate up and out of the iPad.

    • Remove the LCD shield plate.

  40. Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the display cable bracket:
    • Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the display cable bracket:

    • One 2.7 mm screw

    • Two 1.4 mm screws

  41. Remove the display cable bracket from the iPad.
    • Remove the display cable bracket from the iPad.

  42. Use the flat tip of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector up off its socket on the logic board. Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely. Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.
    • Use the flat tip of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

    BE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY! If you don’t, when you put it back together the backlight will not light.

    Owen Stevens - Replica

    And be sure to use something to block the connector from falling back and touching the battery connector again - a little tape or foam, or a piece of plastic will hold it safely.

    info - Replica

    When I reassemble the iPad, must I first connect the display and then the battery? or do I have to reverse and connect the battery first and then the display?

    Marco Santoro - Replica

    During reassembly this is where you want to reconnect the battery then power up the device to test. Make sure the LCD, digitizer, home button, etc., are functioning properly BEFORE you seal it up.

    Jeana Morales - Replica

  43. Use spudger to lift the LCD connector up off its socket on the logic board. Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.
    • Use spudger to lift the LCD connector up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.

  44. Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini.
    • Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini.

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Sam Goldheart

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I successfully completed the repair after the second go round. Somehow I must have damaged the LCD the first time I tried to replace my cracked screen. My only suggestion would be to make note of where the two magnets are located so you can put them back.

mediayogi - Replica

OK, completed this, and all is working…whew! Props to the author for posting this, and it *does* cover getting the display out pretty thoroughly, BUT, it doesn’t cover a lot of things that you need to know when the whole thing goes back together - just saying “follow in reverse” to re-assemble doesn’t get it: What to do about all the adhesive? alcohol prep pads work well for removing all the gunk. What about the magnets attached to the screen (they come off when you clean up all the adhesive), they need to be placed correctly and held with adhesive.

You need new adhesive strips for this to all go back together well. Digitizer cable needs to be tucked in opposite the direction it naturally folds or the entire display won’t close up correctly. In short, it really takes sourcing three or four other repair videos to get through this correctly. Total process (remove and replace LCD screen) took about 2.5 hours.

info - Replica

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