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Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE

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  1. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE, Riscaldamento iOpener: passo 1, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE, Riscaldamento iOpener: passo 1, immagine 2 di 2
    • Ti raccomandiamo di pulire il tuo forno a microonde prima dell'operazione, perché ignobili entità unte e appiccicose potrebbero attaccarsi all'iOpener.

    • Disponi l'iOpener al centro del tuo forno a microonde.

    • Per forni a microonde con piatto rotante: assicurati che il piatto giri liberamente. Se l'iOpener si incastrasse da qualche parte, potrebbe surriscaldarsi e bruciare.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Replica

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Replica

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Replica

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Replica

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Replica

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Replica

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Replica

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Replica

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Replica

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Replica

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Replica

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Replica

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Replica

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Replica

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Replica

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Replica

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Replica

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Replica

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Replica

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Replica

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Replica

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Replica

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Replica

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Replica

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Replica

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree - Replica

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler - Replica

    I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

    Tom Weber - Replica

    iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

    To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

    jharrison - Replica

    Can’t you just use a hair curler instead?

    Aspect22 - Replica

    A hairdryer or heat gun works, if heating is kept around 100 deg C (212 deg F - boiling point of water). But… heating this way is cumbersome. Using a hotplate, set to 100 deg C, measured carefully with a fairly inexpensive IR gun, is simpler and easier, if you can afford the hotplate (I used an old pancake griddle with a thermostat knob). It works great for phones, setting them face down for 2 minutes, then picking them up with insulated gloves - cheap, wool gloves work fine. This may require repeated reheating to continue the display removal, but its much simpler.

    Because its almost impossible to repeatedly lay an iPad/tablet on the hot plate, I propose an alternative.

    Initially lay the larger iPad/tablet, face down, for 2 min, to heat all of the adhesive surrounding the display. Lift and begin the picking process describe in your removal steps. Then lay an iOpener on the hotplate for 2 min (already set to the exact, desired temp) to bring it to working temp for the remaining operations.

    Dan Smith - Replica

    For iPads in particular, it makes sense to construct a simple, aluminum window frame, laid on a hotplate (see my comment above) that only touches the edges of the display, heating only the adhesive underneath. This prevents general heating of the entire device. Four strips of aluminum, placed together as a frame, would be the simplest and allow variations for all devices - envision it as a pinwheel of strips, radiating outward. Use it for any size device.

    Dan Smith - Replica

    BTW, always read all comments at each step. New, and possibly useful, suggestions appear on occasion that can be crucial.

    Dan Smith - Replica

  2. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 2, immagine 1 di 1
    • Riscalda l'iOpener per 30 secondi.

    • Se durante la riparazione l'iOpener si raffredda, scaldalo di nuovo nel microonde per altri 30 secondi.

    • Fai attenzione a non surriscaldare l'iOpener durante l'operazione. Il surriscaldamento potrebbe far esplodere l'iOpener. Non scaldare sopra i 100°C (212°F)

    • Non toccare mai l'iOpener se appare gonfio.

    • Se l'iOpener è ancora troppo caldo in mezzo per poterlo toccare, continua a utilizzarlo mentre attendi che si raffreddi un po' prima di scaldarlo di nuovo. Un iOpener riscaldato correttamente dovrebbe rimanere caldo fino a 10 minuti.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Replica

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Replica

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Replica

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Replica

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Replica

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Replica

    I agree with this.

    Jarl Friis -

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Replica

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Replica

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Replica

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Replica

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Replica

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Replica

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Replica

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Replica

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson - Replica

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Replica

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Replica

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Replica

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov - Replica

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl - Replica

    You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

    Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

    William Draheim - Replica

    Yeah, the iOpener didn't work for me either.... ended up using a hair dryer and that worked. The iOpener was too warm to soften the glue in my case.

    Andrés Vettori - Replica

  3. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 3, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi l'iOpener dal forno a microonde, afferrandolo per una delle due estremità piatte per evitare il contatto con la parte centrale calda.

    • L'iOpener sarà davvero caldissimo, perciò fai attenzione quando lo maneggi. Usa una presina da forno, se necessario.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Replica

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Replica

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Replica

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Replica

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Replica

    If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
    I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

    Jarl Friis - Replica

  4. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE, Metodo di riscaldamento alternativo per l'iOpener: passo 4, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE, Metodo di riscaldamento alternativo per l'iOpener: passo 4, immagine 2 di 2
    • Se non hai un microonde, segui questo passo per scaldare il tuo iOpener in acqua bollente.

    • Riempi una pentola o una padella con abbastanza acqua per immergerci un iOpener.

    • Scalda l'acqua finché non bolle. Spegni il fuoco.

    • Posiziona l'iOpener nell'acqua calda per 2-3 minuti. Assicurati che l'iOpener sia completamente immerso nell'acqua.

    • Usa delle pinze per estrarre l'iOpener scaldato dall'acqua calda.

    • Asciuga accuratamente l'iOpener con un asciugamano.

    • L'iOpener sarà molto caldo, quindi fai attenzione e tienilo solo dalle linguette alle estremità.

    • Il tuo iOpener è pronto all'uso! Se devi scaldare di nuovo l'iOpener, scalda l'acqua fino all'ebollizione, spegni il fuoco e immergi l'iOpener in acqua per 2-3 minuti.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com - Replica

    Use a hair dryer

    Edited To the max - Replica

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia - Replica

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia - Replica

    Even if you don't put in a ziplock bag, I found that the surface is mostly hydrophobic so drying it is very easy. I also didn't have tongs, but the bag is denser than water, so it sank and I attached clothes pins to the ends and was able to remove it with those.

    Jack Adrian Zappa - Replica

    2-3 minutes in near boiling water, then 2-3 minutes on my s10+ and it was super easy to cut the glue off.

    Kipras Bielinskas - Replica

    I have a question, if I have a pan, and I have water, and a mean to boil the water, won't it be easier and cheaper to just use that.

    Ollie Tan - Replica

    Have you tried it? Water limits your temperature to 100℃, whereas 'pan on the stove' can easily get up to twice that. If your pan is even slightly warped, you'll have a few hot spots of direct conduction with convection everywhere else, heating things unevenly. Assuming you get the device up to temperature, how will you get it out without scratching it or burning yourself? After you're finished, do you really want to prepare food in the pan you warmed up adhesives and trace manufacturing substances in?

    .

    Boiling something form fitting to heat your device with is a lot more foolproof, and not being foolish is easier and cheaper. Direct pan heating can work, but you are leaving yourself open to a lot more problems than just taking the safe route.

    James Beegle -

  5. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE, Pannello frontale: passo 5, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE, Pannello frontale: passo 5, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE, Pannello frontale: passo 5, immagine 3 di 3
    • Se il vetro del tuo display è rotto, cerca di contenere altre potenziali rotture e di evitare lesioni applicando del nastro adesivo al vetro.

    • Posiziona strisce sovrapposte di nastro adesivo da pacchi trasparente su tutto il display dell'iPad fin quando non sia coperta l'intera superficie.

    • Ciò manterrà al loro posto le schegge del vetro e fornirà un'integrità strutturale quando si farà leva sul display per sollevarlo.

    • Cerca di seguire con attenzione il resto della guida. Tuttavia, quando il vetro è rotto, probabilmente continuerà a rompersi mentre ci lavori e potresti aver bisogno di uno strumento metallico per far leva e rimuovere il vetro.

    • Indossa occhiali protettivi per proteggere gli occhi e fai attenzione a non danneggiare lo schermo LCD.

    If you add clear packaging tape, it will create bubbles and the suction cup will become inefficient. To me it was impossible to remove the glass with the suction cup. Since the glass was very cracked, I had to resort to some tweaking with strong tape and pull the this off.

    jfmartin67 - Replica

    If your screen is significantly cracked to the left edge, abandon this entire setup, prepare yourself for a 5-6 hour repair, expect a lot of patience, a lot of cursing and some good old American ingenuity. The suction cup and picks will not work. You have to carefully crack the glass yourself (w/out damaging the panel underneath and carefully pull it apart from the inside to the outside edges. Use a hairdryer to soften the glue under the cracked panel along the edges. Then use an exacto-knife to separate the pieces of the glued panel from the frame body, all the way around the device. Watch out for the home button ribbon connector when using the exacto-knife. There will be glue residue left over, carefully apply some goo-gone to a small area of a paper towel and wipe gently around the frame body to loosen the glue. Then use the plastic spudger tool to scrape off the excess glue.

    The iPad repair is VERY difficult. If you are a working adult, hire a pro. This is not for the faint of heart.

    aaroncope - Replica

    The hairdryer option was way faster and easier than the iOpener. Be VERY careful not to damage the LCD- one small mistake will cost you an extra $100!

    Mike Martin -

    but I’m not American

    Andrew Williams -

    If your digitizer is shattered, the tape will help, but you’re going to need extra picks. Or a razor blade. See below.

    Blair Miller - Replica

    Friendly observation that the image on this step is actually of an older ipad model as the side bezels are far too big. I don't know if that matters to anybody but a noob might see it and think this manual doesn't apply to them. : )

    notalawyer - Replica

    Thank you! Yes things like this matter so much. I successfully replaced an iPhone 6LCD&Screen from the guide. Next was my iPad 2 and the guide said nothing about the power flex cable. They were only stressing about not severing the wifi cable. I followed instructions carefully. Got the screen off and bam. Power flex severed because it was left out of the guide. I saw it in the comments after. I’ll never follow a guide here again without reading the comments. I did receive a discount code for my next purchase but it still caused a lot of inconvience.

    Haley Hodges -

    I had the same experience. My glass was cracked all the way to the left side and the suction cup would not pull the glass up. The packaging tape also didn't help. The heat caused it to lift. I finally abandoned the tape, used a heat gun aimed very carefully at each broken piece of the screen. The picks did work with patience, but I just pulled off each broken part of the glass. I also found that pulling up on one broken part while heating in front of me would let the next piece pull up. I continued heating and breaking all the way around. Do the right side last. Took about 1 hour to get it off, and another hour to clean the old glue off the frame. BTW thanks to this web site and all the comments! No way I would have done this without all the help here! I am now clean and waiting for my new digitizer. I couldn't free the battery (below), so I left it powered up, and verified it till worked before throwing away the old glass. Vince

    Vince Asbridge - Replica

    Taping with package tape doesn't work. You'll need a very large piece of tape if you go this route.

    Travis Dixon - Replica

    Just finished successful repair. I would add this: most folks will be here because of cracked screen. This is not easy; believe the 'complex' rating on this repair. I put tape on my screen because it was badly cracked. This made the suction cup useless, because it just sucked the tape off the scree.n. I used the razor blade technique which worked great, it should be used in the demo, and a good blade should be in the kit.

    dale kingsbury - Replica

    I thought this shouldn’t be too hard - I only had some cracks in the glass, but then at every spot I worked on, the glass turned into nothing but tons of tiny shards. I had to use the points of the tweezers plowing along only the outer edge all the way around, sometimes with a razor blade and often using a hair dryer up close (briefly, over and over). After I got every bit of glass out, I used ordinary rubbing alcohol and Q-tips but I had to rub hard and quickly 100 times on each area to slowly dissolve the glue. I only scratched the LCD once slightly with a tweezer slip. The large chucks of display held together by the packing tape needs something under it to protect the LCD while you are working.

    Robin - Replica

    Using Goo Gone to get rid of the adhesive residue is 20 times faster than using rubbing alcohol, even if it is 91% isopropyl alcohol.

    Skipping the iOpener and using a hair blowdryer, and using Goo Gone in place of the rubbing alcohol are 2 simple changes that will make this job much much easier than the default instructions if the screen is shattered.

    Scott Walker -

    I found the hair dryer is far more effective and less dangerous than using the iopener. If you overheat the iopener you end up pulling a hot plastic bag spewing hot glycerine out of your microwave! Not fun!

    Clifford Sullivan - Replica

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Replica

    Packing tape won’t do anything. You need to use duct tape to prevent glass shards from spraying everywhere. If your screen is only partially cracked (mine was the top only), modify the directions and focus on the areas that aren’t cracked first. I was able to get the lower 90% of the screen off, and then worked the cracked pieces with a heat gun and metal razor spudger. The entire repair took around 3 hours, and prob 2 hours and 30 min of that was getting the shards out and pieces off. And lots of cursing. I also told my kids if they crack another screen they are out of luck. I am not doing this again.

    Janie Hughes - Replica

  6. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 6, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 6, immagine 2 di 2
    • Prendendolo dalla linguetta, posiziona l'iOpener riscaldato sul lato dell'iPad, a sinistra del gruppo pulsante home.

    • Lascia l'iOpener in posizione per almeno un minuto al fine di ammorbidire l'adesivo sotto il vetro.

    The iOpener doesn't work because the heat isn't strong enough. I used a hair dryer which proved to be much more efficient.

    jfmartin67 - Replica

    The iOpener didnt work for me either. seems like it gets hot enough but it must not. I spent 30 min with the iOpener, then tried a hair dryer.

    kinchma - Replica

    “At least a minute.” Bullshit. Get the iOpener good and hot, place it on the area you’re going to work on clear side down, and cover it with a towel. Walk away for 2 minutes. Make yourself a drink — you’ll need steady hands later.

    Blair Miller - Replica

    I've done this with an iOpener and at least in my case, it worked fine. You may have to modify the heating instructions though, since not all microwaves are created equal.

    Jeff Suovanen - Replica

    ii i just did this and it took a while but i figured it out it is true this thing doesnt get hot enough BUT heat it 2 times and then the 3rd time when u place it on the ipad put the ipad box on top and then maybe a second ipad on top of the box so it kinda smashes i down but not too much for it to break and then wait for it to turn warm THEN use the succion THEN the gap appears. the glue is super strong on the ipads so yea it will take some time lol

    Joel Tyson - Replica

    Doesn't work. Perhaps include more copy on exactly how to do it?

    Travis Dixon - Replica

    The iOpener does not work. It simply it is not hard enough to soften the glue. The heat hair dryer method does not work either.

    Javier Lozada - Replica

    The goal is simply to weaken the glue enough that you can use your suction cup to open up a tiny gap under the glass, so you can insert an opening pick and slice through the adhesive. It doesn't actually take all that much heat; the picks will do most of the work once you get them in there. iOpeners, hair dryers, heat guns all work fine in my experience—the iOpener is just a bit more foolproof because it won't get hot enough to cook the display panel underneath.

    Jeff Suovanen - Replica

    I used iron..surprise!! yeah pretty fast tho…put a layer of fabric (towel in my case) ontop, along the edge of screen and start ironing..

    :-)

    carvelera - Replica

    If using a hair dryer or heat gun make sure it is not too high heat. My heat gun has two settings, one 750 degree and an 1100. After using it on high I discolored the digitizer and warped the LCD slightly (only shows on pure white backgrounds). Low worked for the rest of the repair just fine. Also using a razor blade or something besides the pick works nice for the initial pry. Once you have a gap big enough, insert the pic and you’re all set.

    Robert - Replica

    I don’t have an iOpener, my heat gun wasn’t handy. The last time I did something like this it was a 90-100 degree day, so I just put it out in the sun for a while, and it worked great. This time it’s fall, so I used a 420W halogen Light that I have for photography. (A standard heat lamp would probably work too, but might take longer.) I held it close to the light until it felt hot to the touch, just a couple minutes, then I left is sitting about 16” below the light for 5-10 minutes to sink in and warm uniformly. It worked great.

    For me, steps 8-31 were basically one step "Carefully pry off the digitizer glass with the plastic tools" took all of 30 seconds.

    Seth Childers - Replica

    Although very hard this does work. The first time opening the ipad after buying it 8+ years ago it took about 3 times of heating the iopener. It did require an amount of pressure I did not expect but it did come open as instructed. I did add a towel and apply pressure to the iopener to make sure the heat transferred.

    hmcarbajal - Replica

    The iOpener didn’t work for me at all, zero, it literally did nothing. I resorted to my heat gun on low and yeah you need to be super careful, but once I started the adhesive came off pretty easy.

    David Yutzy - Replica

    I used a 2-level heat gun, too. Supposedly 707 degrees/923 degrees.

    I kept the heat gun about 1” away from the glass and used only the low setting. Even so, I did alter the digitizer pretty quickly in a few locations around the edge. It still functions fine, and you only see it under certain circumstances, so not a huge deal. But irritating. Be cautious about too much heat. It just looks like sort of a faint, polarized grid.

    Don’t be afraid to put tension on the glue and just hold it. If it is warm enough, the glue will relax under sustained tension. This isn’t a speed event. Don’t try to rush it, or you’ll break something.

    Now that those infrared surface thermometers have become so inexpensive, it would be great if someone posted a target temperature for softening the glue without damage. That would take some of the guesswork out of this process.

    Tim - Replica

    If you heat the iOpener somewhat longer than they recommend, and get it about as hot as your hand can stand, then place it on the iPad and cover with a towel for at least 3 minutes. Then really be patient. I got a bit impatient, and took a chance and slipped a really fine “exacto-type” of blade vertically beside the suction cup as I lifted, and thankfully that worked. That made enough room to get one of the “guitar pick” wedges in. The rest went fine.

    Pete - Replica

    I used the iOpener to soften the adhesive. I was extra careful and it took me about 90 minutes to get to Step 30. With my acquired experience I would say, it may be done in about 30 minutes. Most important: Be patient! You may have to reheat the iOpener a few times until you will be able to do Step 9. Once I had this part done, it was a lot easier. So I would say the first 60 minutes I spent on steps 1 through 9.

    marcelflueeler - Replica

    I’ve been using a heat and isopropyl alcohol combo on iPhone screens with no problem. This specifically says “only” heat. I feel like she’s trying to tell me to keep a lid on my IA. Because I don’t know what other methods some rogue might be trying in their efforts to compromise adhesive.

    Audi Archer - Replica

  7. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 7, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 7, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 7, immagine 3 di 3
    • Nonostante l'iPad sembri uniforme dall'esterno, sono presenti vari componenti delicati al di sotto del vetro frontale. Per evitare danni, riscalda e fai leva solo sulle aree descritte in ogni passaggio.

    • Man mano che segui le istruzioni, assicurati di non far leva sulle seguenti aree:

    • Fotocamera frontale

    • Antenne

    • Cavi del display

    Don't assume anything!! I thought I was pulling on the screen connector and I was pulling on an antenna component instead. Didn't ruin its connection range but I sure remember doing it and now my iPad has a little internal flaw only I'm aware of.

    Travis Dixon - Replica

    Correct me if I’m wrong but the LTE version apparently has 2 antennas on each side of the front-facing camera and it’s not shown on this post to avoid prying. I just scratched one of them following these instructions.

    Pacman - Replica

    A note about the multiple image thumbnails - roll your mouse over them to get an animated effect, rather than clicking on them individually

    Rusty - Replica

    I’ve been using a heat and isopropyl alcohol combo on iPhone screens with no problem. This specifically says “only” heat. I feel like she’s trying to tell me to keep a lid on my IA. Because I don’t know what other methods some rogue might be trying in their efforts to compromise adhesive.

    Audi Archer - Replica

  8. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE, Istruzioni Anti-Clamp: passo 8, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE, Istruzioni Anti-Clamp: passo 8, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE, Istruzioni Anti-Clamp: passo 8, immagine 3 di 3
    Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:
    Anti-Clamp
    $24.95
    Compra
    • I prossimi tre passi dimostrano l'uso dell'Anti-Clamp, uno strumento che abbiamo progettato per rendere più facile la procedura di apertura. Se non stai usando l'Anti-Clamp, salta i prossimi tre passi per un metodo alternativo.

    • Per le istruzioni complete su come usare l'Anti-Clamp, da' un'occhiata a questa guida.

    • Tira la manopola blu all'indietro per sbloccare i bracci dell'Anti-Clamp.

    • Posiziona un oggetto sotto il tuo iPad, così che resti parallelo alla superficie di appoggio tra le due ventose.

    • Posiziona le ventose vicino al centro del bordo sinistro, una sopra e una sotto.

    • Tieni ferma la parte inferiore dell'Anti-Clamp e premi con decisione sulla ventosa superiore per farle fare presa.

    • Se la superficie del tuo iPad è troppo scivolosa perché l'Anti-Clamp faccia presa, puoi usare del nastro adesivo per creare una superficie più aderente.

  9. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 9, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 9, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 9, immagine 3 di 3
    • Tira la manopola blu in avanti per bloccare i bracci.

    • Gira la manopola in senso orario di 360° o finché le ventose cominciano ad allungarsi.

    • Accertati che le ventose rimangano allineate fra loro. Se si spostano, allentale leggermente e riallinea i bracci.

  10. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 10, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 10, immagine 2 di 2
    • Aspetta un minuto per dare la possibilità all'adesivo di lasciarsi andare e creare una fessura.

    • Se lo schermo non si scalda abbastanza, puoi usare un asciugacapelli per scaldare lungo il bordo sinistro dell'iPad.

    • Per le istruzioni complete su come usare un asciugacapelli, da' un'occhiata a questa guida.

    • Inserisci un plettro di apertura sotto lo schermo quando l'Anti-Clamp crea una fessura abbastanza grande.

    • Se l'Anti-Clamp non crea una fessura sufficiente, scalda ulteriormente l'area e ruota la manopola di mezzo giro.

    • Non girare di più di mezzo giro alla volta, e aspetta un minuto tra un giro e l'altro. Lascia che l'Anti-Clamp e il tempo lavorino per te.

    • Salta i prossimi due passi.

  11. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 11, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 11, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 11, immagine 3 di 3
    • Con cura, posiziona una ventosa circa a metà altezza del lato riscaldato.

    • Assicurati che la ventosa sia completamente piatta sullo schermo per ottenere una buona aderenza.

    • Tenendo l'iPad fermo con una mano, tira la ventosa verso l'alto per separare leggermente il vetro del pannello frontale dal case posteriore.

    • Se lo schermo del tuo iPad è molto danneggiato, ricoprirlo con uno strato di nastro adesivo trasparente potrebbe aiutare la ventosa ad aderire. In alternativa, usa un pezzo di nastro adesivo tenace, come il nastro "americano" e piegalo per formare una sorta di manico.

    In this picture above, the glass isn't cracked at all so it helps the suction cup to be effective as it is hermetic. With cracked display, it won't work.

    jfmartin67 - Replica

    Suction cup would not work for me. No amount of heating with iOpener or hair dryer would allow even the slightest gap to form. I ended up looking at some YouTube videos and used a razor blade. I put the razor blade perpendicular to the top glass, right at the edge of the glass and pushed down until the blade went down 1/4". Then heated some more and pried up the glass enough to put in an opening pick. I spent a lot of time working with the suction cup. Glue was just too strong.

    kinchma - Replica

    It's funny that iFixit changed the image they used. Even they themselves realized how stupid it was to try a suction cup on taped up surface. C'mon guys! You should at least make foot notes for your readers and let them know what to do if the glass is already shattered. It's a slow methodical process that involves working with a iOpener type tool. I personally have one that looks like a prison shank (lol)

    Scott S - Replica

    Not sure what you are referring to there—I see no evidence in the document history of the photos having been changed. Suction cup + packing tape can work, but it depends how badly the glass is broken and the quality of the tape. Sometimes it takes a couple attempts. You can also skip the suction cup and try using tape alone to pull on the panel, if your tape is sticky enough. There are no guarantees though, which is why we have the disclaimer right in Step 4 that the procedure can be pretty fussy if you're working with a shattered panel. Depending on where it's broken and how badly, you're going to have to improvise.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Jeff, the change is evident from image 4, where all the surface is taped up. In this picture you show a clean not broken surface and yes, the suction cup works...

    Simone Gabbriellini -

    Ah, I see what you're saying! I can understand why you guys would assume that, but in reality the entire guide was originally photographed using an intact panel. We later added a step showing how to protect yourself if you have a shattered panel (with photos to go along with, obviously). I'm afraid it wouldn't be practical to re-shoot the entire guide every time we make a small change like that.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The suction cup is useless if your glass is shattered. Use a new, sharp razor blade, and insert it vertically between the edge of the glass and the metal back of the iPad. Don’t worry about pressing too hard — there’s a lip that stops the blade from going in too far and damaging anything. You’ll probably have to do this several times, but eventually the blade will “bite” into the edge of the glass well enough for you to pry it up. Insert a pick underneath the razor, then remove the razor and continue as directed.

    Blair Miller - Replica

    After having to read several comments on this screen removal and the clear packing tape, I too have to agree that the tape method does not work well at all if your screen is already shattered. I combined several methods, with lots of patience to remove the screen on my iPad Air 2. What I found it very helpful was the heat gun used for paint removal. The heat gun generates a lot of concentrated heat at lower air velocity, unlike generic hair dryer, so you must be very careful not to ruin the electronics, and risk burning your hands and anything around it. My heat gun that I purchased from Home Depot had a nozzle to direct and focus the heat on a small area. That was helpful in working small area at a time. This method work thoroughly well.

    Taiji Saotome - Replica

    It would work if you leave iopener in microwave for 1 minute.

    Don’t trust the instruction from ifixit.

    you can put iopener in microwave for 1 minute without any harm.

    Note. you have to make sure that it is in cold position before you put it into microwave.

    phongsiri nirachornkul - Replica

    Suction cup didn’t work for me either, went the razor blade route (using an exacto knife blade) with very minimal damage to the aluminum shell. Be warned, if your screen has cracked along the edge (as it almost 100% certainly has if you’re reading this guide), the screen will continue to shatter and splinter as you make your way around the edge. That’s when having the screen taped up well will be to your advantage. There’s also a good chance you’ll have to re-insert the razor blade on the other side of a fracture and start the lifting process again, but keep going, being sure to avoid the points called out in this guide and you should be fine.

    Also, do not apply the suction cup to an area of the screen with cracks and no tape. If you’re near the edge you run the risk of brutally shattering that area of the glass if the glass gives before the suction cup.

    Micah Sledge - Replica

    In order to get this to work for me I had to heat the IOpener to over 104 C - I needed to get the screen over 40 C before the adhesive would loosen.

    Also I had to put the ipad on a towel - the granite countertop it was on was sucking the heat out too fast.

    Jack Williams - Replica

    This step was brutal on my nerves - read about too many people ruining their iOpener and I don’t have a heat gun. I had to keep heating the iOpener incrementally hoping I wouldn’t pop it. … but if you’re patient, persistent, and cautious, you can definitely tell when you’re seeing separation. The iOpener ended up being WAY hotter than 30 seconds was getting me - borderline scorching my hands.

    William Thompson - Replica

    Could not loosen the adhesive using the iOpener. Had to use hair dryer.

    Erwin yi - Replica

    As the others noted, the suction cup is useless on a cracked screen, especially if you’ve applied tape (like the instructions say you should). The screen I was working on was busted up pretty bad, I ended up removing it and then going back to remove the edge glass and adhesive. When you have a really busted screen just take your time and use a heat gun or good hot hair dryer and it will eventually come off.

    I used an iSesame tool vs a razor to pry the edge (from a previous replacement project) but again, the iOpener and suction cup are useless.

    David Yutzy - Replica

    Thank you for the comments above. I was using the iOpener unsuccessfully, then turned to the hair dryer and heated it up for over 3 minutes. This gave me the gap I needed to insert the opening pick and begin the process. So, with patience and a hair dryer, I was able to get the digitizer off.

    0812mgr - Replica

    You really need a lot of patience here (30-45min). But then it works. The best way was with this plastic "crowbar" to get the beginning. You really have to press hard to get in between.

    Arne Meier - Replica

    The suction cup provided in the toolkit didn't work on anything. Tape helped, but I eventually went in through a small cracked shard to create an entry point at the bezel

    Tom Weber - Replica

    I've passed on the iOpener as suggested in these comments and have tried to use a hairdryer. heating on high at medium speed for 1 minute then trying the suction cup. heating for another minute then using the suction cup. Been doing this for 1/2 an hour but it isn't working. Need to take a break because I'm afraid I'm going to hurt in internal components of the iPad 6 (just trying to replace a dead battery) Any suggestions ???

    Just a guy - Replica

    LOL...i tried the pastic clear tape to hold the cracked glass then apply the hairdryer. It melted the plastic tape glue and thus making the handle with the duct tape useless and the duct tape just pulled the melted glue from the plastic packing tape up like butter. But the screen still not budging. I've tried the hair dryer for 5 mins and nothing. I've tried the iOpener and that's useless. I'm heating it up 30 secs a time. I tried 1 min. The screen is welded shut.

    brian -

  12. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 12, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 12, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 12, immagine 3 di 3
    • Posiziona un plettro nella fessura aperta dalla ventosa.

    • Non inserire il plettro più in profondità della cornice nera sul lato del display. L'inserimento eccessivo del plettro potrebbe danneggiare l'LCD.

    • Tira la linguetta di plastica della ventosa per rilasciare la guarnizione e rimuovi la ventosa dallo schermo.

    I found it much easier to use a single edge razor blade instead of the pick. After getting that inserted, it was easy to slip the pick between the blade and the case. Disclaimer - Razor blades are very sharp and you could easily hurt yourself or your iPad if you use one.

    donprius - Replica

    This is an amazing tip! After trying for 10 minutes to use the pick with no luck, I grabbed a small razor blade and that worked perfectly to get me started!! Thanks!!

    Ashley Garner - Replica

    The suction cup also didn’t work to create a gap - it cracked the screen when i tried to lift (the screen was already cracked). This was after rotating between the iOpener and a microwavable hot pack for food. The iOpener was around 175 degrees, it brought the surface of the iPad to 130. I was finally able to lift the glass using a razor blade and then the picks like donprius. I continued to use the iOpener to loosen the glue around the rest of the iPad but I think a heat gun would have been more efficient.

    Marc Ducret - Replica

    You have to heat the glue really much, or you will, as i did, crack the glass.

    Linus Grüne - Replica

    Best bet is to mark the pick with a sharpie line on how far your maximum limit is so you don’t damage the LCD.

    Jon Snyder - Replica

    The iOpener works well, be patient and keep reheating until you can see the screen start to give a little. I kept putting mine in the microwave and it worked faster when the iOpener was hotter. 40 second intervals did the trick for me eventually

    Jackson Taylor - Replica

    I spent an hour trying to lift the screen of an iPad Air first gen. The trick I found was that its a combination of lifting the screen a millimetre and then wiggling a razor blade vertically in the slot between the screen and the metal frame (yes its a microscopic slot). I used a hair drier on a section of the edge of the middle of the screen as above. The middle area allows for a bit of flexibility in the rail - we’re talking 0.5mm which is just enough for the razor.

    So hit a section of the screen edge with the drier till its hot to touch, do the suction cap thing as above, insert the blade vertically and wiggle it *ever so slightly* in the slot as you don’t want to break anything. Keep repeating this until you see even the slightest rise in the screen under the cap. At this point, remove the razor and insert the blue pick. It should easily dig in and under the screen, but no further than the black border.

    Remember, small wiggly steps will avoid breaking anything. Better a number of small heat and wiggles than a lift and snap.

    Rusty - Replica

    for those who need to open more than one iPad, the iflex is safer and more effective than a razor blade. i use it to get started then switch to a pick

    iFlex Opening Tool

    Stow - Replica

    Yea, this suction cup cracked my glass. This made it near impossible to slide the picks around. I may try again another day, but I suspect it’s toast at this point.

    Jason Prothero - Replica

    I should have noted the difficulty rating before thinking I could replace the battery myself. I could have saved myself the cost of replacing a cracked screen, which happened when I attempted this step. I did not want to overheat the iOpener but consequently, I could not get a pick inserted underneath the screen. (I think the glue must take a lot more heat than expected to melt.) So just a warning to more novice tinkerers—this repair wasn't the same as fiddling with screwdrivers and a million small parts.

    mlliu - Replica

  13. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 13, immagine 1 di 1
    • Scalda di nuovo e riposiziona l'iOpener.

    • Fai attenzione a non surriscaldare l'iOpener durante la procedura di riparazione. Attendi sempre almeno dieci minuti prima di scaldare di nuovo l'iOpener.

    This says "Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener", however the iOpener itself has a warning printed upon it that says wait at least 10 minutes. And that 10 minutes warning is also mentioned in Step 2 above.

    Scott - Replica

    Sorry about that! We fixed the text on this step. The two-minute interval was for an older version of the iOpener—the text printed on your iOpener will have the correct interval, which is indeed ten minutes. It can burst if overheated or reheated too quickly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It still says 2 Minutes up there in the warning

    Sandro Krumbein - Replica

  14. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 14, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 14, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 14, immagine 3 di 3
    • Posiziona un secondo plettro accanto al primo e fallo scorrere lungo il bordo dell'iPad, staccando l'adesivo mentre procedi.

    You guys really need to show how it's done when your iPad isn't perfect like the one pictured above.. C'mon..

    Scott S - Replica

    This is for BATTERY REPLACEMENT not CRACKED SCREEN REPLACEMENT!!

    Corey Barcus -

    How do you slide the picks when the glass is broken? Even with the glass taped, it pulls away from the tape rather than the housing. I've just further shattered the glass with my attempts.

    chrisweiler - Replica

    With my shattered screen, I was able to remove it using the suction cup slightly and a metal pry, had to break the edge glass some for removal also but it didn’t do damage. More layers of shipping tape helped to make the screen stay together better and come off more intact.

    Jackson Taylor - Replica

  15. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 15, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 15, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 15, immagine 3 di 3
    • Continua a muovere il plettro verso il basso nel bordo del display per rimuovere l'adesivo.

    • Se il plettro rimane incastrato nell'adesivo, "ruota" il plettro lungo il lato dell'iPad, continuando a rimuovere l'adesivo.

    This gives a false illusion to the difficulty of these repairs when you guys make guides using perfect devices. What about devices with dinged corners? A reader is gonna slap on a new screen and shatter it the second they apply pressure thinking it will fit into a dented corner lol

    Scott S - Replica

  16. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 16, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 16, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 16, immagine 3 di 3
    • Prendi il primo plettro che hai inserito e fallo scorrere verso l'angolo superiore dell'iPad.

    • Se riesci a vedere la punta del plettro attraverso il vetro frontale, non farti prendere dal panico, basta estrarre leggermente la punta del plettro. Molto probabilmente, tutto andrà bene, ma cerca di evitarlo in quanto potrebbe depositare adesivo sulla parte anteriore del display LCD che sarebbe poi difficile da pulire.

    I managed to get a couple of fingerprints on the LCD.

    What's the best way to clean 'em off?

    What's the safest way?

    Mike McIntosh - Replica

    What I’ve read, and seems to work, is gentle circular pressure with a very clean, dry microfiber cloth. Lacking that, use a TINY drop of water ON THE CLOTH, not on the LCD. Small amounts of alcohol can be used, in my experience, but only if the above don’t work, and with better results if used in small amounts and applied to the cloth, not the LCD.

    Bonnie Baxter - Replica

    Can confirm. Microfiber with a little isopropyl worked great to clean off any adhesive or fingerprints from mine. Thanks for the tip.

    Robert -

    If you dare to use alcohol on your device, at least use isopropyl alcohol, not ethanol!!!

    Pierre-Aurélien - Replica

  17. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 17, immagine 1 di 1
    • Riscalda l'iOpener e posizionalo sul bordo superiore dell'iPad, sopra la fotocamera frontale.

    • Fai attenzione a non surriscaldare iOpener durante la procedura di riparazione. Attendere almeno dieci minuti prima di scaldare di nuovo l' iOpener.

    • Se hai un iOpener flessibile, puoi piegarlo per riscaldare contemporaneamente sia l'angolo superiore sinistro sia il bordo superiore.

  18. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 18, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 18, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 18, immagine 3 di 3
    • Fai scorrere il plettro intorno all'angolo in alto a sinistra dell'iPad per separare l'adesivo.

    I broke the screen glass of my ipad just right when I moved the guitar pick towards the upperleft corner of the screen as depicted in your instructions. (Whereas my ipad screen was in perfect condition : no scratches, not broken at all...). There must be something wrong here. Be advised: move the pick towards the corner with caution !!!

    Pierre-Aurélien - Replica

  19. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 19, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 19, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 19, immagine 3 di 3
    • Fai scorrere il plettro di apertura lungo il bordo superiore dell'iPad, fermandoti pena prima di raggiungere la fotocamera.

    • La terza immagine mostra dove si trovano la fotocamera frontale e il suo alloggiamento nell'iPad.

    • Evita di far scorrere il plettro di apertura sopra la fotocamera frontale, in quanto si potrebbe macchiare l'obiettivo di adesivo o si potrebbe danneggiare la fotocamera. I seguenti passaggi descriveranno in dettaglio come evitare di "disturbare" la fotocamera frontale.

  20. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 20, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 20, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 20, immagine 3 di 3
    • Estrai leggermente il plettro e fai scorrere delicatamente la punta più estrema lungo la parte più in alto della sezione della fotocamera frontale del bordo superiore.

    At this point I’d use paper tape on the margins of the screen to mask off areas where you should use caution with the pick. Its just a visual reminder not to run the picker too deep in these areas. They are: the camera lens, lower right hand side and where the two antenna are along the base. Step 6 third image highlights these areas.

    Rusty - Replica

  21. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 21, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 21, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 21, immagine 3 di 3
    • Lascia il primo plettro sull'iPad leggermente oltre la fotocamera frontale.

    • Prendi un secondo plettro e inseriscilo a sinistra della fotocamera, quindi fallo scorrere verso l'angolo dell'iPad per finire di tagliare l'adesivo su quel bordo.

  22. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 22, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 22, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 22, immagine 3 di 3
    • Inserisci il plettro precedente più in profondità nell'iPad e spostalo dalla fotocamera verso l'angolo.

  23. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 23, immagine 1 di 1
    • Lascia i tre plettri negli angoli dell'iPad per evitare che l'adesivo del pannello frontale possa riattaccarsi.

    • Riscalda iOpener e posizionalo sul lato restante dell'iPad, lungo i pulsanti del volume e di blocco.

  24. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 24, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 24, immagine 2 di 2
    • Fai scorrere il plettro di apertura attorno all'angolo in alto a destra dell'iPad per staccare l'adesivo presente nell'angolo stesso.

    • Lasciare questo plettro in posizione per evitare che l'adesivo si riattacchi e prendi un nuovo plettro per il passo successivo.

  25. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 25, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 25, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 25, immagine 3 di 3
    • Inserisci un nuovo plettro di apertura e fallo scorrere verso il centro del bordo destro dell'iPad, staccando l'adesivo mentre procedi.

    • I cavi del display si trovano a circa metà strada dalla parte inferiore dell'iPad. Smetti di far scorrere il plettro quando sei a circa 12 cm dalla parte inferiore dell'iPad.

    Why there’s such an obsession with not damaging the cables is beyond me. Be careful, so as not to damage what the cables are connected to. But the cables are part of the replacement digitizer, so if you nick or even slice through them (like I did with the one closest to the bottom) don’t worry about it.

    Blair Miller - Replica

    Keep in mind that some people are here to open an intact display to replace internal components! In those cases, keeping the cables un-harmed is quite important ;)

    Sam Goldheart -

    My digitizer WAS ok and I was only replacing the battery I wasn't careful enough when coming around the side with the pics and got a hold of the cable just enough with the pic to pull it off the underside of the panel. The battery replacement went great other than now I have to replace the digitizer. :(

    BE CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP!!!

    Dylan Bouterse - Replica

    And if you are replacing the digitizer, you have to reuse the fingerprint sensor home button. I sliced through mine and now I’ll not have fingerprint sensor. Each home button is matched to the main board and if switched out you will loose that sensor ability.

    David - Replica

    Like others, I damaged my digitizer cable while doing a battery replacement. It would be a good idea to use some blue tape to mark the spots to avoid during the glue slicing procedure.

    donprius - Replica

    I also damaaged the digitizer cable while doing a battery replacement. Use just the tip of the opening pick.

    Dean Gross - Replica

    People need to realize iFixit routinely duplicates instructions for more than one type of repair/replacement. However, all of the comments are combined, which leads to confusion.

    laura moon - Replica

  26. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 26, immagine 1 di 1
    • Lascia in posizione i plettri di apertura e disponi l'iOpener riscaldato sull'estremità del pulsante Home dell'iPad.

  27. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 27, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 27, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 27, immagine 3 di 3
    • Fai scorrere il plettro nella parte inferiore sinistra fino all'angolo in basso a sinistra per tagliare l'adesivo presente nell'angolo stesso.

    • Lascia il plettro nell'angolo. Non andare avanti e non rimuovere il plettro dall'iPad.

    • La terza immagine mostra le due antenne e la cavità del pulsante home nella parte inferiore dell'iPad.

    • I seguenti passaggi ti diranno dove agire per evitare danni a questi componenti. Applica calore e leva solo dove indicato.

  28. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 28, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 28, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 28, immagine 3 di 3
    • Lascia in posizione il plettro usato nell'ultimo passo per evitare che l'adesivo si riattacchi.

    • Con un nuovo plettro, taglia delicatamente oltre l'antenna di sinistra, fermandoti prima del pulsante Home.

    • Fai scorrere il plettro solo dal bordo esterno verso il centro dell'iPad. Non spostare il plettro indietro verso il bordo esterno, poiché spostarsi in questa direzione potrebbe danneggiare l'antenna.

    • Se è necessario far scorrere il plettro sulla parte inferiore più di una volta, rimuovilo e reinseriscilo sul bordo esterno, quindi scorri verso l'interno.

    • Lascia il plettro in posizione prima di procedere.

  29. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 29, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 29, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 29, immagine 3 di 3
    • Prendi un nuovo plettro e inseriscilo a destra del precedente.

    • Fai scorrere il plettro attraverso il pulsante home e l'antenna di destra usando solo la parte più estrema della punta per rimuovere l'adesivo.

  30. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 30, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 30, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 30, immagine 3 di 3
    • Con l'adesivo allentato, ora puoi inserire il plettro vicino all'angolo destro. Fai scorrere il plettro verso sinistra e fermati appena prima del pulsante Home.

    • Proprio come con l'antenna sinistra, fai scorrere il plettro solo dal bordo esterno verso il centro. L'inversione di questa direzione può danneggiare l'antenna.

    This step needs a BIG CAVEAT to not insert the pick far enough to damage the home button/touch ID cable, as it is DIRECTLY above where you’re directing people to insert the pick. I just ruined a ribbon cable by following this guide too closely.

    tabormeister - Replica

    Sadly only after damaging my home button flex cable, I read your comment. There should be a big warning here as it is very easy to tear this cable.

    Bouke - Replica

    I also damaged the home button cable. Check the placement of the cables in steps 37-44.

    Paul Klein - Replica

  31. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 31, immagine 1 di 1
    • Riscalda e applica nuovamente l'iOpener sul lato di controllo del volume dell'iPad.

  32. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 32, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 32, immagine 2 di 2
    • Stai molto attento con questo passaggio. Prenditi il tuo tempo e assicurati che l'adesivo sia caldo e morbido e che tu abbia attraversato tutto l'adesivo con un plettro di apertura. Non preoccuparti se devi fermarti e scaldare di nuovo.

    • Sul lato dell'iPad di fronte ai controlli del volume, dovresti avere un plettro infilato in ogni angolo. Torci plettri per sollevare leggermente il vetro, separando l'ultimo adesivo rimasto lungo il bordo del cavo del display.

    • Se rilevi una resistenza notevole, lascia al loro posto i plettri, scalda di nuovo e riapplica iOpener nelle aree problematiche.

    You will end up having to scrape the outter ledge to remove the old screen. I bled and got glass shards everywhere. Good luck!

    Travis Dixon - Replica

    That won't happen if you use gloves and protective glasses!

    tanner85 - Replica

  33. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 33, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 33, immagine 2 di 2
    • Solleva lentamente e delicatamente per staccare ulteriormente l'adesivo lungo il bordo del cavo del display.

    This is very tricky if the screen is cracked (which I would assume most people are replacing the screen because of a crack). Use duct tape to try and secure the shards as much as possible, but be prepared for shards flying everywhere. Search for videos on cracked screen removal, there’s a good ifixit one. Maybe they can link it here? I finally was able to get it all by using a heat gun and metal spudger/razor like the guy in the video.

    Janie Hughes - Replica

  34. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 34, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 34, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 34, immagine 3 di 3
    • Sostenendo il vetro del pannello frontale, usa un plettro di apertura per tagliare l'ultimo adesivo.

    • Fai molta attenzione a non tagliare o danneggiare i cavi del display.

    Detailed pictures that better indicate the difference between the remaining adhesive and the two mylar cables (the very cables you are trying to avoid damaging!) would be much appreciated. On my unit the two were VERY hard to distinguish.

    dlcatftwin - Replica

    This step does not need to be performed here. I cut this adhesive once I had removed the lcd and display cables. This makes it much easier to avoid damaging anything. Just prop the glass up on something while you perform steps 31 - 42, then cut remaining adhesive and remove.

    Robert - Replica

    The front camera has a black bezel cover but it is attached to the broken glass digitizer. Peel it off and save it. I plan to tack glue it to the camera instead of gluing it back to the new digitizer glass. It has two alignment bumps so maybe it doesn’t need gluing to either side but I found it on the ground when it came off of the the broken digitizer. I almost tossed it as part of the broken glass.

    Robin - Replica

  35. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 35, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 35, immagine 2 di 2
    • Una volta che tutto l'adesivo è stato separato, apri il pannello di vetro come una pagina di un libro e appoggialo sul tuo spazio di lavoro.

    • Durante il rimontaggio, pulisci i residui di adesivo dal case (e il vetro frontale se lo si sta riutilizzando) con alcol isopropilico e sostituisci l'adesivo utilizzando la nostra guida all'applicazione dell'adesivo per display e le nostre strisce adesive pretagliate.

    • È facile pizzicare un cavo flessibile tra il vetro anteriore e la cornice dell'iPad durante il rimontaggio. Presta attenzione ai cavi flessibili e assicurati che si pieghino delicatamente e si infilino sotto il telaio. Se le pieghe di un cavo flessibile sono premute di piatto con forza, si possono danneggiare irreparabilmente.

    my replacement digitizer has rigid flex with adhesive tape where the connectors extend. how does this “fold” back inside the frame?

    David - Replica

    Same here. I removed the adhesive tape, but now what?

    Dvi -

    It looks like I have the same or similar question: the “hinge” part of the digitizer cables (the flap portion) looks like it is supposed to tuck into the crevice between the LCD panel and the side of the aluminum body - my replacement (from iFixit) has sticky contact on the upper side of this flap, making me think that its supposed to adhere to the side of the LCD panel, but the instructions do not make this clear - is my assumption correct?

    dlcatftwin - Replica

    Or, does the flap adhere to the underside of the front panel’s right edge?

    dlcatftwin - Replica

    I attempted to put this protrusion underneath the LCD, and it kept coming up above the LCD. As there were no instructions, I put it as best as I could underneath the LCD as I cannot imagine that it folds up against itself?

    Dvi - Replica

    I tried to put it ‘inside’ the case but was not able to - at the end, I just glued it against the front glass.

    I must have done something wrong with the new home-button assembly as the fingerprint sensor does not work anymore - However, I am not going to go through that repair again so passcode it is.

    Michael Berneis - Replica

    My screen from ifixit had the rigid flaps with adhesive also. I removed adhesive and adhered it to the new glass, it worked fine and solved the problem with the flaps not pushing down.

    Jackson Taylor - Replica

    if there is adhesive glue on the inside of the digitizer and the top of the LCD what do you recommend to clean it.

    scprillwitz - Replica

    Isopropyl alcohol (and certainly not ethanol!!!)

    Pierre-Aurélien -

    Don’t throw away your old screen until you take the home button off of it! My screen was shattered and I kind of have a phobia of broken glass, so I bundled it all up and threw it into the trash can immediately. Next day when I went to continue the job I was sad that my roommate had finally taken out the trash for once and my home button was halfway to the dump by then.

    Sparky - Replica

    Cleaning with isopropyl alcohol is not really working well. I am using it with a qtip. Is there a certain way you recommend in order to actually the adhesive off?

    Brooke Parkhouse - Replica

    Yes, the flap seemed to want to be attached to the glass, not go down the slot. All went together well, except that my home button doesn’t work. I suspect the connections wasn’t right, although I did my best to (gently but firmly) push it in. Too late to do anything about it now.

    Mussollini - Replica

    I got my repair kit yesterday, had a go at it today on my iPad Air 1 (A1474). I’ve opened up phones before (the kind that open up easily), but first time dealing with a glued-together device. Anyway I got there, and now I’m putting things back together. I have a question regarding the pre-cut adhesive to hold the glass back on. Is it meant to be applied to the glass, or the frame?

    SHL - Replica

    Ok never mind - I just looked at the digitizer for this iPad and saw that the adhesive is preapplied to the glass, which confirms my suspicions. Now I can proceed and bring this repair to a conclusion.

    SHL -

    And it’s done! Doing the battery calibration now, but I’m relieved that the battery is working. I did turn on the iPad prior to removing the blue strips on the adhesive to make sure it was working before committing to fix the glass in place.

    To reiterate the point, the adhesive strips go on the glass. The way they are packaged with the clear plastic makes it go very smoothly.

    There are 2 oversize pieces of plastic sandwiching the adhesive sections. These keep the strips in their original shape free of dust off until you are ready to use them. Once you remove these, there is another clear plastic strip which has an inside edge that matches the adhesive section’s inside edge. This plastic allows you to position the adhesive accurately on the glass while keeping your fingers away from it. This is especially important on the right side where the digitizer cables are. Once you remove this clear plastic, there is still the blue film with pull tabs. You can leave these on to do a power up test, then remove them. …cont

    SHL -

    … After doing the power on check, you can also check that all the buttons work, home button, camera, speakers etc. Then I turned it off (probably wasn’t necessary), removed the blue strips and pressed the glass in. For this last step I suggest lining up the left edge of the glass with its corresponding edge in the aluminum shell, and then gently pressing down on the right side. ALSO: while doing this last step, look carefully at the right side for the ribbon cables there. In my case (reusing original digitizer), they were protruding just a smidge, so I used the spudger to just nudge it a bit and they got into place, and then I pressed the right side down. I then pressed down all around the edges of the glass.

    SHL -

    quick question... if this is a replacement, why are we worrying about the digitizer cables? My glass is shattered pretty bad on the to the left of the home button where he says to work. So I can't apply suction cup there. I don't understand the need to be concerned about the cables if the digitizer is going to be trashed...

    Michael M - Replica

    I'd like to add when at this stage and you notice some of the old black adhesive may be hanging off the digitizer DO NOT remove any of it. Wait until you have to thing fully removed. It's way too easy to tear one of the cables if you try removing it now.

    Lindsey W - Replica

  36. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE, LCD: passo 36, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE, LCD: passo 36, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE, LCD: passo 36, immagine 3 di 3
    • Rimuovi tutto il nastro adesivo che nasconde le viti dell'LCD.

  37. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 37, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi le quattro viti a croce Phillips che tengono fermo l'LCD.

    • Tre viti da 4,0 mm

    • Una vite da 4,8 mm

  38. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 38, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 38, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 38, immagine 3 di 3
    • Non cercare di rimuovere completamente l'LCD. È ancora connesso all'iPad tramite molti cavi dall'estremità del tasto home. Sollevalo solo dal bordo della fotocamera interna.

    • Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per sollevare LCD dal suo alloggiamento quanto basta per poterlo afferrare con le dita.

    • Apri l'LCD dell'iPad come la pagina di un libro, sollevandolo vicino alla fotocamera e ruotandolo oltre l'estremità del tasto home.

    • Fa' attenzione e tieni d'occhio i cavi mentre capovolgi il display.

    • Appoggia l'LCD sulla sua parte anteriore per aver accesso ai cavi dello schermo.

    • Appoggia l'LCD su una superficie morbida, pulita e senza lanuggine.

    Pictures that better indicate the difference between the remaining adhesive and the two mylar cables (the very cables you are trying to avoid damaging!) would be much appreciated. On my unit the two were very hard to distinguish

    dlcatftwin - Replica

  39. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 39, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 39, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 39, immagine 3 di 3
    • Rimuovi l'unica vite a croce Phillips da 2,3 mm che fissa il connettore della batteria alla scheda logica.

    • Crea un blocco batteria usando una carta da gioco e fallo scorrere sotto il connettore della scheda logica per scollegare la batteria.

    • Puoi usare anche un blocco per la batteria iFixit. Fa' molta attenzione e non spingere il blocco per la batteria sotto il connettore con troppa forza.

    • Lascia il blocco in posizione per evitare che i cavi del connettore della batteria facciano contatto finché non hai completato la riparazione.

    The could recommend me since I did not put the wedge first in the connection of the battery and it heated the logic card a couple of minutes, q´l recommend to solve it since it does not turn on

    carlos renao - Replica

    The battery isolation pick didn’t come with my kit. I made my own using one of the regular picks and a pair of scissors.

    Blair Miller - Replica

    Would it not be important to note that you are not really “disconnecting” the conduit of the battery from the logic board, but rather isolating the connection?

    dlcatftwin - Replica

    @dlcatftwin I’m not sure I understand the distinction you’re making. You are fully disconnecting the battery, by opening the circuit and wedging a big insulator in there to keep it from closing again accidentally.

    Jeff Suovanen - Replica

    Hello Jeff,

    Thank you for responding. one may regard “disconnecting” as actually unplugging or unsocketing a cable connection as actually disconnecting, like in step 37. I could picture a person tugging on the pick thinking that the battery connector actually had to be lifted away from the board.

    Probably over-thinking it! ;-)

    Regards,

    DLC

    dlcatftwin -

    @dlcatftwin 100% on point. That’s exactly why I’m reading this comment right now. I’ve never heard of a “Battery Isolation Pick” and I was trying to get the connector loose, before realizing it wasn’t coming easy and therefore reading the comments for more info.

    Ergo, there is some confusion here that should be noted in the primary instructions.

    Kyle Sankowicz -

  40. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 40, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi le tre viti a croce Phillips da 1,4 mm che tengono ferma la staffa del cavo del display.

    The supplied screw driver bit really struggled with these screws.

    Thomas Kaye - Replica

  41. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 41, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 41, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per sollevare delicatamente la staffa del cavo del display direttamente dalla scheda logica.

    • Il connettore del cavo del display è incollato al lato inferiore della staffa, quindi non spingere lo spudger troppo in profondità sotto di essa o potresti danneggiare il connettore.

    My iPad Air2 is configured differently from that in these photos. The battery connector is next to the display cable connection, and the LCD/glass panel are integral, so that they lift out of the frame together.

    Doug Pulling - Replica

  42. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 42, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi l'LCD.

  43. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE, Assemblaggio pannello frontale: passo 43, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi tutto il nastro adesivo che copre il connettore del cavo a nastro del tasto home.

  44. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 44, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 44, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 44, immagine 3 di 3
    • Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per aprire l'aletta sul connettore ZIF del cavo a nastro del tasto home.

    • Sfila il cavo a nastro del tasto home con attenzione dal connettore ZIF.

    On reassembly take note of the flap lock on that connection. Sadly I failed to operate it correctly and now have a defunct home button.

    Mussollini - Replica

  45. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 45, immagine 1 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 45, immagine 2 di 3 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 45, immagine 3 di 3
    • Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger o un'unghia per rimuovere i due connettori del cavo del digitizer direttamente dalle loro prese.

    • Per evitare di danneggiare il tuo iPad, fai leva solo sui connettori e non sulle loro prese sulla scheda logica.

    When reversing with the new screen , this was the hardest part for me.

    The cables needs to fit under the LCD screen, and they kept going out of place when I tried to close the screen in the end.

    That meant that I had to remove the LCD again with one hand while holding the digitizer/glass with the other - all while I had already exposed the adhesives.

    OleTheill - Replica

    for me the cables of the new screen were longer that the old one. So even if i put everithing under the lcd, the digitizer didnt close properly. After everything was put back togheter, this side of the digitizer keep popping out.

    Félix Naud - Replica

    I do have the same problem.

    Anne -

    In step 41 - what is the name of the connector in the first picture which he is trying to open

    glen d'souza - Replica

    It is a ZIF socket. (Zero insertion force)

    Zach -

  46. Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 46, immagine 1 di 2 Sostituzione assemblaggio pannello frontale iPad Air LTE: passo 46, immagine 2 di 2
    Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:
    Polyimide Tape
    $9.99
    Compra
    • Rimuovi l'assemblaggio del pannello frontale.

    • Se il cavo a nastro del tasto home si attacca al case posteriore dell'iPad, non forzarlo. Rimuovilo delicatamente dal case con delle pinzette, poi potrai rimuovere l'assemblaggio del pannello frontale.

    • Se si verificano problemi di tocchi "fantasma" con lo schermo nuovo, si possono risolvere aggiungendo uno strato di nastro isolante molto sottile, come il nastro Kapton (polyimide), alle aree evidenziate sul retro del pannello. I pannelli iFixit sono già isolati correttamente e non dovrebbero richiede l'aggiunta di nastro adesivo.

    • Senza il corretto isolamento, queste aree del digitizer possono sfregare contro altri componenti, causando il malfunzionamento dell'input del touch.

    • L'isolamento non è visibile a occhio nudo ed è diverso dalle strisce di schiuma che proteggono dalla polvere che si trovano su molti iPad.

    After removing the glass, I'd suggest scraping off any remaining black adhesive off of the iPad's frame. Get every speck. This may be time consuming if you have lost glass integrity and have sticky, splintered shards around the edge of the frame, but you need the frame completely clean of adhesive before you put the new front panel down or else it won't lay correctly in the frame.

    johnjustinirvine - Replica

    This was not as hard as I expected it. I think I was lucky since the adhesive wasn’t properly working anymore, and my display wasn’t too shattered. Took me a about 40 minutes to remove the display. Unfortunately I noticed that my battery had expanded so ordered a new one, waiting for it to arrive before I put it all back together.

    Sebastian Graus - Replica

Conclusione

Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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Jeff Suovanen

Membro da: 08/06/13

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17 Commenti

Definitely not for the weak of heart, especially if your screen lost all its integrity when it shattered. You'll be scraping glass splinters off the frame for an hour. Tip: Make sure to scrape off all the black adhesive from the frame of the iPad (and I mean every speck) before putting the new screen down. I apparently missed a spot, and I can't get the screen to seat perfectly within the frame (but close enough; I'm not going back in there). Also, I didn't have much luck with the microwavable tube for softening the adhesive, but I was fortunate to have a heat gun that helped quite a bit.

johnjustinirvine - Replica

I love the ifixit guides and this one is up to their consistently high standards, have to concur with the previous comment though, if your customer brings you a completely trashed digitizer a good number of the steps become obsolete and its down to brute force to remove the adhesive even if you've taped the screen, picks become redundant. One piece of advice that could be incorporated is if the digitizer is beyond repair, just cut the ribbon and be done with it, opening a trashed screen 'like a book' is not necessary, otherwise spot on guys and thanks for making my day easier!

brendon - Replica

I agree with the previous two comments—this guide (or a separate one) should be changed to show to replace a cracked/shattered digitizer. I quickly learned that using the picks was a lost cause and following the guide was near pointless until I got to removing the display.

Pro-tip: don't even bother with the heat gun if the digitizer is shattered. Take the iPad outside, put on a pair of goggles, and just wedge a spudger/tweezers between the adhesive and the glass. Don't worry about damaging the home button or cables, your replacement digitizer probably has them pre-installed...just worry about the camera and not nicking the display. It's going to make a huge mess, but that's why you're outside. Heat it if you want, but I didn't find it necessary.

Jack Burton - Replica

Before you proceed with this — especially if your digitizer is shattered — read through the comments under each step for some helpful hints. Also, one thing that isn't mentioned: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLEAN THE INSIDE OF THE DIGITIZER AFTER YOU REMOVE THE PROTECTIVE FILM. From what I can tell, only the outside of the digitizer is made of gorilla glass, and the inside will lightly scratch no matter how soft and clean your cleaning cloth is.

Blair Miller - Replica

I found the guide easy to follow, I completed the repair in half an hour. I found the repair easy to complete BUT i recommend that you use a heat gun over the iOpener tool, as the heat gun is more affective at softening the adhesive making it easier to pull out the little shards of glass. I recommend you update your guide to show a realistic repair with an iPad with a horribly cracked screen.

jguth8 - Replica

You're right and a heat gun is more effective, but it's also very easy to overcook and destroy the display (along with other internal components), leaving you worse off than when you started. Feel free to use it if you know what you are doing! For first-timers, the iOpener is a lot more forgiving. Congrats on a successful repair!

Jeff Suovanen -

The I opener was of no use but I have a small dehumidifier oven, put the iPad in to soften the adhesive at 140 for 45mins then proceeded if it takes a while to get all the way around pop it back in the oven. Great guide. Thanks

Deborah - Replica

If you have a shattered screen, 2 words - WEAR GLOVES. And I mean decent gloves. I bought a pair that have nicely padded fingers to keep shards from tearing up my hands.

Also, the way I found to clean the LCD prior to reassembly, I used compressed air to clean off the big chunks. VERY CAREFULLY using light adhesive tape to pick up any left over small glass shards. Then I used distilled water and a microfiber cloth to clean the LCD. Except a scratch that occurred during the smashing of the digitizer, it cleaned up very nicely. Did 3 passes, prior to gluing the digitizer back.

ALSO, I found the magnets inside were coming loose. Glass shards also in the adhesive behind them. Clean them up, and I used the handle part of a cut off q-tip to apply some Gorilla super glue to permanently affix to where it belongs.

Karl Grindley - Replica

Could you coat the screen with liquid bandage before removing the glass, to keep the shards together more. Or is that a poor idea and why?

Cherith - Replica

Great guide! Thanks for putting it together. The key to success is take your time! Also try not to smudge the LCD as it is not easy to clean.

timberwilde - Replica

I did the shattered screen version of this repair . As others have said don’t bother with suction cups and the picks as the screen does not have enough intergrity to lift and will just bow rather than pull up from the edge . I used the angled tweezers and worked my way around the edge picking off shattered glass . If you push way from the screen towards the edge you don’t risk slipping and scratching the lcd .

Once I had the screen off obsessively scraping off all the adhesive and cleaning with isopropyl is key to a neat rebuild along with the usual edge straightening if bent in a drop.

John bayley - Replica

Can anyone recommend how to prevent lifting of the new digitiser where the cable are? I have tried everything that I can think of and still the new screen lifts

Dominic Haywood - Replica

You need to push the folded flex gently in between the lcd and the iPad frame with a plastic tool or tweezer handle. Then peel the sticker which sits perfectly on the digitizer without bulging or showing inside the lcd area. Good luck.

razrunlocker -

It’s an okay guide cu the cord shattered glass doesn’t fold like a book. BPT pick out shards from the adhesive

Wendell Smith - Replica

Help: can’t reconnect Home button! Everything went well except the little plug for the Home button doesn’t clip or stick. I’m desperate and !#^&@@ that I might have to buy a new iPad just because of that little connector…

olivier - Replica

Wow well my daughter in law found it: the little strip goes underneath the metal connector. Phew!

olivier -

Can anyone post a picture of the digitzer cable being tucked appropriately so the screen will sit down correctly?

also having issue now where ipad does not charge, or charges slowly. Disconnected power during install. Any thoughts?

Michael Branton - Replica

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