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  1. , Riscaldamento iOpener: passo 1, immagine 1 di 2 , Riscaldamento iOpener: passo 1, immagine 2 di 2
    • Ti raccomandiamo di pulire il tuo forno a microonde prima dell'operazione, perché ignobili entità unte e appiccicose potrebbero attaccarsi all'iOpener.

    • Disponi l'iOpener al centro del tuo forno a microonde.

    • Per forni a microonde con piatto rotante: assicurati che il piatto giri liberamente. Se l'iOpener si incastrasse da qualche parte, potrebbe surriscaldarsi e bruciare.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Replica

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Replica

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Replica

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Replica

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Replica

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Replica

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Replica

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Replica

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Replica

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Replica

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Replica

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Replica

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Replica

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Replica

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Replica

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Replica

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Replica

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Replica

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Replica

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Replica

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Replica

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -


    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Replica

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Replica

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Replica

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Replica


    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree - Replica

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler - Replica

  2. : passo 2, immagine 1 di 1
    • Riscalda l'iOpener per 30 secondi.

    • Se durante la riparazione l'iOpener si raffredda, scaldalo di nuovo nel microonde per 30 secondi.

    • Fai attenzione a non surriscaldare l'iOpener durante l'operazione. Il surriscaldamento può far bruciare l'iOpener.

    • Non toccare mai l'iOpener se appare gonfio.

    • Se l'iOpener è ancora troppo caldo in mezzo per poterlo toccare, continua a utilizzarlo mentre attendi che si raffreddi un po' prima di scaldarlo di nuovo. Un iOpener riscaldato correttamente dovrebbe rimanere caldo fino a 10 minuti.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Replica

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Replica

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Replica

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Replica

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Replica

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Replica

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Replica

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.


    Karl Marble - Replica

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Replica

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Replica

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Replica

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Replica

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Replica


    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client (boutique américaine) ou (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Replica

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson - Replica

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Replica

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Replica

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Replica

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov - Replica

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl - Replica

  3. : passo 3, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi l'iOpener dal forno a microonde, afferrandolo per una delle due estremità piatte per evitare il contatto con la parte centrale calda.

    • L'iOpener sarà davvero caldissimo, perciò fai attenzione quando lo maneggi. Usa una presina da forno, se necessario.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Replica

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Replica

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Replica

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Replica

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Replica

  4. , Metodo di riscaldamento alternativo per l'iOpener: passo 4, immagine 1 di 2 , Metodo di riscaldamento alternativo per l'iOpener: passo 4, immagine 2 di 2
    • Se non hai un microonde, segui questo passo per scaldare il tuo iOpener in acqua bollente.

    • Riempi una pentola o una padella con abbastanza acqua per immergerci un iOpener.

    • Scalda l'acqua finché non bolle. Spegni il fuoco.

    • Posiziona l'iOpener nell'acqua calda per 2-3 minuti. Assicurati che l'iOpener sia completamente immerso nell'acqua.

    • Usa delle pinze per estrarre l'iOpener scaldato dall'acqua calda.

    • Asciuga accuratamente l'iOpener con un asciugamano.

    • L'iOpener sarà molto caldo, quindi fai attenzione e tienilo solo dalle linguette alle estremità.

    • Il tuo iOpener è pronto all'uso! Se devi scaldare di nuovo l'iOpener, scalda l'acqua fino all'ebollizione, spegni il fuoco e immergi l'iOpener in acqua per 2-3 minuti.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener? - Replica

    Use a hair dryer

    Edited To the max - Replica

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia - Replica

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia - Replica

  5. , Vetro anteriore: passo 5, immagine 1 di 3 , Vetro anteriore: passo 5, immagine 2 di 3 , Vetro anteriore: passo 5, immagine 3 di 3
    • Se il vetro dello schermo è crepato, previeni ulteriori rotture e danni fisici durante la riparazione coprendo lo schermo con del nastro adesivo trasparente.

    • Sovrapponi strisce di nastro adesivo trasparente per coprire tutta la superficie dello schermo dell´iPad.

    • Ciò impedirà ad eventuali schegge di vetro di staccarsi e causare ulteriori danni strutturali mentre si fa leva e si solleva il display.

    • Fai del tuo meglio per seguire il resto della guida, come descritta. In ogni caso, uno schermo crepato continuerà probabilmente a danneggiarsi durante la riparazione e, perciò potrebbe essere necessario utilizzare uno strumento metallico per estrarre il vetro.

    • Indossa occhiali protettivi per riparare gli occhi da eventuali schegge di vetro e fai attenzione a non danneggiare lo schermo LCD.

    Yes...wear safety glasses for sure when doing this!

    Josh West - Replica

    If you have ANY cracks FOR SURE do the tape. I would also make sure to wear safety glasses as it can fly all over even with the tape. And do it somewhere that you don't mind tiny glass shards going everywhere. I had one 3 inch crack in the glass in the lower right corner and it started spidering. The plastic pics don't work once well once they hit a broken point in the glass so you better have a lot of heat to loosen the adhesive, or you end up using an exacto knife to get around the cracked spots.

    jesseokerlund - Replica

    On a few occasions I had an unexpected pop as the glass shattered and little shards struck me in the face. I had taped the surface but pieces at the edge still managed to break free. My advice: definitely wear the safety glasses, and definitely tape the entire glass surface.

    robertmhussey - Replica

    Echo jesseokerlund's comments that you will have glass flying. I made the mistake of doing the repair at my kitchen table and had a lot of cleanup to do. The job would be much easier if there was no broken glass, and the hardest part is where the glass is broken right next to the bezel. I used the metal spudger to work those pieces free, but it takes some time.

    robertmhussey - Replica

    + 1 on the safety glass, I almost got hurt while doing this.

    alexisfogel - Replica

    I followed all the safety precautions mentioned: tape, safety glasses… The best advice I saw on this is to put the iPad in the sun for a few minutes. I placed mine on the windshield of my car in direct sunlight for about 5 minutes. I also used the iOpener to keep heat on the edges I wasn’t working on. I was able to easily remove the glass without any shards flying in about 30-40 minutes total. Great advice and safest way I’ve seen to remove broken glass.

    Robert Jenkins - Replica

  6. : passo 6, immagine 1 di 1
    • Di nuovo, in quanto potresti trovarti a lavorare con del vetro rotto durante questa procedura, ti consigliamo fortemente di indossare degli occhiali protettivi come protezione contro le schegge volanti.

    • Appoggia un iOpener sul bordo destro dell'iPad, appiattendolo in modo che ci sia un buon contatto tra le superfici,

    • Lascia l'iOpener appoggiato per circa 90 secondi prima di provare ad aprire il vetro anteriore.

    It is ver likely that the glass you are trying to replace is broken, and this is tempered glass therefore it will chatter in many small pieces while you are working on it. Take this safety advice very seriously and protect your eyes!!! The glass pieces fly everywhere. AGAIN: PROTECT YOUR EYES!!!! BE SAFE!!!

    McGiord - Replica

    This last statement cannot be underemphasized! I got two shards of very fine glass into my right eye, luckily got them out right away, before reaching for the safety goggles! Later on, I removed them again because working w/ the small parts was easier. Protect your eyes, people!

    Lou Bomski -

    Just use some scotch wide transparent tape and cover the broken screen BEFORE you start to taking it apart. It will hold all the shards together and nothing will fly around.

    Vatevaaa -

    I covered the screen in clear packing tape to control glass particles.

    I placed the ipad outside in direct afternoon sunlight for an hour and all of the adhesive was softened quite well.....the screen was off in just a few minutes !

    John - Replica

    This is a very good idea John, I wish I'd seen this comment before I spent hours picking tiny bits of glass off the glue!

    Tom Scott -

    Thumbs up for this tip. I left it out in the sun for 15 min only and it worked a treat. I used a razor blade. The plastic tools are next to useless.

    olafgoy -

    I had some issues after replacing this cable.

    Once I had it in and back together only the down volume was working, and shortly after the gyro gave out.

    I ended up going to where the new cable connects to the board, removing it, then replacing it as gently as possible. Not too firm.

    I also removed a foam spacer in that area because it was pushed out over the gyro board.

    Now I'm back to full functionality!

    clatekeen - Replica

    me 2 my volumen up doesn't work and the switch sound/silent any fix?

    Zadd -

    Badly broken screen, taped and warmed about 15 minutes on heating pad set on high. Perfect, gentle, overall warming! Mark the front with Sharpie, ie WiFi, cable, etc. Used thin metal iSes... type tool and guitar pics. BUY NEW Plastic bezel!!! So super cheap. Rewarm on heating pad as necessary. Compressed air helpful to blow away tiny glass bits. Wear glasses! Take breaks! This is easy if you warm carefully and are patient!

    Max - Replica

    I am in the process of replacing a shattered screen on an iPad 3 wifi, and I literally was removing glass piece by piece! I do recommend having a roll of wide clear sealing tape at hand. Then, when you see loose glass shards, pull off about 4 to 5 inches, and stick the tape to pick up the loose glass, and once in a while, fold the tape onto itself (sticky to sticky side), and set it aside. This helps keep it from getting everywhere. Also, spread news paper under your work. Some people don't really think of these things, but the fact is, hardened glass will find its way into your skin very easily. Extremely sharp!

    dbrown900 - Replica

    Have not attempted this repair on my wife's iPad 2, but is there a reason that you put the iOpener on top of the device rather than putting the device on top of the iOpener? After all, heat rises.

    Stephen Weber - Replica

    Can someone please explain which is the right side of the ipad?

    padeacon - Replica

  7. : passo 7, immagine 1 di 3 : passo 7, immagine 2 di 3 : passo 7, immagine 3 di 3
    • C'è una piccola fessura nell'anello adesivo dell'iPad nell'angolo in alto a destra, a circa 5 cm dal bordo superiore. Dovrai sfruttare questa debolezza.

    • Allinea lo strumento con il tasto del muto. Infila la punta di uno uno strumento di apertura in plastica nella fessura tra il vetro anteriore e il bordo in plastica. Infila solo la punta dello strumento, solo abbastanza per allargarla.

    • Potresti dover fare forza per infilare la punta dello strumento di apertura tra il vetro e la plastica. Lavora pazientemente e attentamente, muovendo lo strumento avanti e indietro se necessario.

    there is the power flex cable near the top right side of the screen. It could be damaged is not careful.

    cli168 - Replica

    Yes, I severed this one on my first attempt. Might note that you want to start prying open below the sound controls. Additionally I found that a razor was helpful in getting the first pic into the device. Obviously you want to be careful as a razor could cause some serious damage, but I just used the tip of the metal to get some space to fit a pick.

    Nick Dresang - Replica

    Maybe I was doing it wrong, but the plastic opening tool I was using kept bending before it was prying anything apart. Therefore I suggest using either a metal spudger or a razor blade to make the very first opening but being VERY careful. My assistant/wife later scratched the LCD going overboard with the metal tools.

    Logan Kennedy - Replica

    There is a way of making the Wifi/Bluetooth Antenna replacement much easier. If you have a steady hand and a soldering iron simply desolder the connecting cable from the bottom of the antenna and solder it back onto the new antenna. This means there is no need to dismantle the iPad and the repair is much faster. Hope this helps :-)

    Richard - Replica

    The process was pretty straightforward, you do need to be careful in a few spots (like the wifi antenna in the lower right) but overall I found it to be of medium level of difficulty.

    It took me 2.5hrs to slowly dismantle and replace the broken screen.

    Here are some tips I learned while doing it:

    - instead of plastic spudger, better to use kit knife or razor blade. I found plastic to bend and malform quite easily.

    - watch out for lower right corner where wifi antenna sits, it's easy to damage it

    - if you have a cracked screen, use protective goggles - i used tape to secure broken glass pieces together, but that didn't quite work and lots of glass was flying as I was prying the screen off the ipad

    - opening tool you put in the microwave sold here is not worth it - didn't do that great for me. I mostly used a hair drier and was very successful melting adhesive

    - tools I'd only need again to do it again - guitar picks, kit knife, phillips screwdriver, hair drier :D

    Overall, I found it to be quite interesting project!

    michalmotykiewicz - Replica

    Seconding the problem about plastic components. They just aren't strong / precise enough to fight this glass. Save them for the really nasty bits like the wifi cable, and use an X-Acto or equivalent everywhere else.

    Golden Neckbeard -

    Wish I would have seen your comment before I went through it. Switched to a razor blade and that helped for sure. Thought about a hair dryer as well but stuck with the micro heating tool. Probably should have done the dryer. :-/

    Josh West -

    Had much more success using the metal spudger versus the plastic opening tool that came with the front panel kit.

    Paul Boyer - Replica

    I had success using Paddle Pop sticks instead of guitar picks. (not sure what they are called in the US). The guitar picks tended to deform and melt with the heat of my hot gun. The glue used to attach the screen is just amazingly strong! It takes a lot of patience to remove all the fragments. I have done about 6 screens now and it is a turdful job!

    Jack - Replica

    I think we call those popsicle sticks. They seem kind of thick for this, at least a lot thicker than a guitar pick.

    John -

    It is not glue, they use a very strong double sided 3M tape

    Odus182 -

    Pay attention to the Power Button cable located in the upper right corner !!!

    Nathan - Replica

    Successful battery change but I did sever the cord/ribbon to the power/sleep button. As my iPad had been opened before at a repair shop, I think they put adhesive over the cord as the small section was stuck underneath the LCD, barely visible. So be careful not to put adhesive above that exposed ribbon/cord to the power/sleep button or the next time you open it up, it's severed.

    Breadman - Replica

    On the iPad 2 I repaired, the opening started at 1 inch and ended at 3mm.

    Justin H - Replica

    Like others i found the plastic tool pretty useless. Exacto, razor blade, or small metal pick/pry tool works much better to get that first guitar pick inserted. Be careful not to damage the bezel too much. Unless to plan to replace it.

    B Kirkham - Replica

    If you have an iPAD that has been repaired before note that the adhesive strip might not have an opening by the volume control as shown. I replaced the glass and the new glass had a 2" gap to the left of the Home button only.

    winwoodc - Replica

    The glass is much thinner than you'd think and I broke mine trying to lever it off before the adhesive has softened enough. Be VERY gentle!

    winwoodc - Replica

    My plastic opening tool broke in no time flat. Perhaps I was pressing down too hard and not wiggling it enough. But for me I found that the metal spudger was the best tool for the job. I was able to wiggle it while slowly prying up the glass and once it was under the surface of the glass I was able to work it along the edge quite easily. I saw that some people used a razor blade but I would be afraid the blade would break. The metal spudger was just thin enough to do the job well.

    robertmhussey - Replica

    !!!!!!razor-blade & hair-dryer !!!!!!!

    sean blanche - Replica

    I have found that using these plastic picks, spudgers and edge tools are ineffective as tools for inserting or creating a gap and glue separation action.

    They are just too soft and too thick for this, causing cracks and not able to reach underneath without causing stresses.

    After heating the adhesive with a heat gun (and using cardboard to shield the lcd screen) I have been using a metal round headed scalpel to insert between the glass and bezel, and to very carefully use as an adhesive separation tool at a very oblique angle so as to miss any sensitive cables or components.

    Also, instead of this iTool heating pad and a microwave, they should create an electrically heated shaped pad, this would avoid the constant cooling and reheating and maintain the right temperature.

    G Trieste - Replica

    Addendum, I have a temperature controlled heat gun, and set it to 180F for this.

    G Trieste - Replica

  8. : passo 8, immagine 1 di 1
    • Assicurati di posizionare lo strumento nella posizione corretta, tra il bordo in plastica dello schermo e il pannello in vetro anteriore.

    This visual is helpful. It would be great also to have a diagram of the top of the ipad, marked with "top," "bottom," "left," "right," and then an arrow pointing to each of the problematic areas, such as wifi cable, digitizer cable, etc. It would be easier to see the whole schematic while working rather than scrolling through the instructions and trying to visualize each piece separately. Good to see where to be careful...

    Christa - Replica

    !!!!!!razor-blade & hair-dryer !!!!!!!

    sean blanche - Replica

  9. : passo 9, immagine 1 di 2 : passo 9, immagine 2 di 2
    • Tenendo la punta dello strumento in plastica infilata tra il vetro anteriore e il bordo in plastica, infila un plettro nella fessura, accanto allo strumento di apertura in plastica.

    My screen was too broken for this "heat, cut with picks, and leave in place" method to work anywhere but the top, where it was essentially undamaged.

    I wound up using a spudger through all the cracked sections to pry upwards just *inside* the perimeter of the adhesive, intentionally breaking the digitizer and the glass further, until I could remove the entire front panel except for the adhered portions - about half the perimeter in my case.

    I then used tools to pry up the glass from the *opposite* direction, that is the broken interior edge I had earlier created, thus not having to fight the bezel and also having a clear line of sight to any interior components I might be damaging.

    Of course, doing it this way made it much easier to drop tiny shards of glass all over the interior, but I found a little diligent cleaning much easier than trying to keep the glass intact while breaking the glue, as in this guide.

    Golden Neckbeard - Replica

    I found that using a scraper blade was the easiest way to get under the glass, both for broken and unbroken areas.

    Jeff Snider - Replica

  10. : passo 10, immagine 1 di 2 : passo 10, immagine 2 di 2
    • Rimuovi lo strumento di apertura in plastica dall'iPad e spingi il plettro più a fondo sotto il vetro anteriore fino ad una profondità di ~1,2 cm.

    It should be noted that the glass can be much more difficult to remove when it is cracked and shattered (as is usually the reason for replacement) . Depending on the location and severity of the cracks, the order and technique of removal requires modification.

    I have found that putting a layer of clear packing tape over the entire screen is helpful, wether it's cracked or not. It will prevent the spraying of glass shards, should the glass break while separating the adhesive; with a broken screen, it should eliminate the risk of cutting yourself during removal, as well as hold all the pieces together. Unfortunately, it also makes the iOpener slightly less effective, so peel it back when applying it. Suction cups can also be helpful during final removal of the glass.

    Having a hot air gun/pencil can be helpful in removing smaller pieces if broken glass that remain once the bulk of it is removed.

    Nick V - Replica

    Just trashed an I pad... Not an electronics person. Did an iphone 5 battery with no problems was following instructions and once I hit the next step I realized I had already screwed up the screen... Moving forward tring to unhook LCD pictures are not very clear on which direction to push or pull so broke that... Now writing a review on it... Take it to a pro if you aren't certain!

    rondiedonelson - Replica

    I found that the adhesive could be separated when the pick or spudger was in at a depth of between 1/4" (6.4 mm) and 3/8" (9.5 mm). You can always go back and work it in deeper if you are having trouble separating.

    robertmhussey - Replica

    Yoh but this is not so simple of your screen is shattered to the edges. Basically I had to lift, shatter more, and then pick off the splintered glass with tweezers bit by bit. Patience is a virtue here. I gave up on saving the adhesive and used it to help remove the splinters. I basically removed the edges of the iPad like that and then lift glass off. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. I would be blind now if I didn’t. wifi antenna -Go slow make sure it’s hot +check what you are doing in the crack. Remove all splinters fromiPad when it’s open. Clean LCD with a microfibre cloth and inside of your new digitizer. When I first reassembled, the home button didn’t work. I reopened and made sure the two gold connectors align with the two spikes on the body. I placed the home button board face down onto the connector spikes with adhesive on the other side, then lowered the digitiser onto it so the board would stick to the digitiser. Notes: forget plastic spudger they’re only place holders, I used a blade knife and metal Spudgers

    Sarah Pegden - Replica

  11. : passo 11, immagine 1 di 1
    • Mentre lavori per separare l'adesivo sul bordo destro dell'iPad, scalda di nuovo l'iOpener e appoggialo sul bordo inferiore.

    I have found that its better to put more than one pick down the side of the screen to keep it open and prevent it from sticking back down.

    Roberto Enrieu - Replica

  12. : passo 12, immagine 1 di 3 : passo 12, immagine 2 di 3 : passo 12, immagine 3 di 3
    • Mentre il bordo inferiore viene scaldato dall'iOpener, inizia a separare l'adesivo del bordo destro dell'iPad.

    • Fai scorrere il plettro sotto il bordo dell'iPad, separando l'adesivo.

    • L'adesivo è molto resistente e può essere necessaria molta forza. Lavora attentamente.

    • Se puoi vedere la punta del plettro sotto il vetro anteriore, sfilalo leggermente. Mentre usi il plettro a questa profondità non danneggerai nulla, ma potresti sporcare di adesivo il pannello LCD.

  13. : passo 13, immagine 1 di 3 : passo 13, immagine 2 di 3 : passo 13, immagine 3 di 3
    • Potrebbe essere necessario spostare l'iOpener sul bordo destro dell'iPad mentre separi l'adesivo. Questo dipende a seconda di quanto tempo ha avuto l'iPad per raffreddarsi mentre ci stavi lavorando.

    • Se il plettro si incastra nell'adesivo, giralo lungo il bordo dell'iPad, continuando a separare l'adesivo.

    The volume power button cable is really close to the edge and is frequently loose and non adherent to the frame. If your pick is deep into the iPad, you are almost sure to cut the cable. Be very cautious around the top right corner of the iPad.

    silvain1038 - Replica

    I absolutely severed this cable when loosening the adhesive around the volume button area. There is really no way of knowing if this cable somewhat elevated from the frame and therefore susceptible to being cut, and it happens to be right where one starts to remove the face with the guitar picks. The cable is directly in from the down volume button, so be extra careful not to put the guitar pick in too far in this area. I recommend buying a power/volume button cable just in case. Replacing this cable is also not easy, but doable. Just try to avoid doing it.

    nickmalmquist - Replica

    Why not work in reverse to the top edge, and back around to the area where that cable may be unsecured? Haven't don't an iPad (yet, staring one in the face right now) but that would be my alternative so the screen is mostly loose and you could possibly see the cable looking from the now open left side of the glass?

    Matt Needham - Replica

  14. : passo 14, immagine 1 di 2 : passo 14, immagine 2 di 2
    • Prima di rimuovere il primo plettro dall'angolo inferiore dell'iPad, infila un secondo plettro sotto il bordo destro del vetro anteriore per evitare che l'adesivo si reincolli.

    • Scalda di nuovo l'iOpener e spostalo sul bordo superiore dell'iPad.

  15. : passo 15, immagine 1 di 1
    • I prossimi passaggi richiedono estrema attenzione.

    • L'antenna del WiFi è attaccata al bordo inferiore destro della copertura posteriore tramite delle viti ed un cavo. A causa dell'orientamento dell'antenna WiFi, è imperativo procedere con attenzione, altrimenti potresti causare danni irreversibili all'antenna WiFi.

    • Dovrai separare l'adesivo che fissa l'antenna al vetro anteriore senza danneggiare le parti delicate che collegano l'antenna alla parte inferiore dell'iPad. Segui i prossimi passaggi attentamente.

    I cut through my wifi cable partially, but it still works (surprisingly). I'd recommend staying well clear of this with the pick. When you go to lift the screen (future step, NOT NOW), use a really good light, start to lift the glass slightly at the corner and you will be able to see the cable. Then you can heat it more and watch the cable as you pull through the adhesive there making sure your not catching the cable.

    B Kirkham - Replica

    If you heat the sides and top, releasing the adhesive, you can peel the broken glass front panel up from the body and with a little force the bottom comes loose. This avoids working around and damaging the Wi-Fi Antennae.

    Michael Vovaris - Replica

    I know it is hard to tell from the photo, but the Wi-Fi antenna is kind of like a flap that opens on the right and is attached on the left. So if you use a pick to slide from right to left, the pick might slide under the flap and then sever how it is attached. When I had my pick just to the right of where the Wi-Fi antenna is, I was able to twist my pick a little (like you are tightening a screw) and pry the screen up where the antenna is located. Then I just moved my pick to the left of the antenna and could continue loosening the screen.

    Laurie Higgins - Replica

    Irreversible damage to the Wi-Fi antenna is nearly unavoidable, but this is not the end of the world since you can pick up a perfectly fine replacement on-line for a few bucks. Many digitizer screen replacement kits include a new WiFi antenna and new bezel since removing the screen without damage to these is also nearly impossible. If your iPad is old enough to need a new battery, and you plan on keeping it thru at least another battery's expected life span, then I would plan on replacing the digitizer screen, bezel, and WiFi antenna as part of the battery replacement. The battery is going to be the most expensive of the set, say around $15 (US), and adding the other three will only add about another $15 (check the prices in ebay, amazon, etc.). Removing the screen often results in damage to the on/off and volume control cable since it too runs along the upper right hand edge of the base right under the screen. If you cut thru this then add another $1 to replace it too.

    Jerry - Replica

    Based on my experience just (nearly) completing this job on an iPad 2, CDMA, is that the trickiest step is reconnecting the three CDMA antenna cables on the underside of the CDMA chip that is part of the logic board assembly. These are nearly microscopic button connectors (maybe 0.5 mm in diameter). I needed 8X magnification glasses, very bright light, tweezers, and incredible luck to get these reattached. They pop off no problem, but getting them positioned to apply pop-on force takes a LOT of patients! Maybe someone knows a trick to doing this? There’s a similar connector on the WiFi cable but the chip it attaches to can be removed from the logic board so you’re able to manage positioning them interdependently. The CDMA chip is attached (soldered?) to the logic board and the three button connectors are on the underside, and pretty close to one another, so getting all THREE attached and then the logic board in place is a miracle.

    Jerry - Replica

  16. : passo 16, immagine 1 di 2 : passo 16, immagine 2 di 2
    • Fai scorrere il plettro attorno all'angolo in basso a destra dell'iPad, separando l'adesivo presente.

    • Non far scorrere il plettro oltre l'angolo. Potresti danneggiare l'antenna WiFi nel farlo.

    Be sure to have a replacement Bluetooth Wi-Fi antenna because it is very likely to get the cable broken at this step.

    McGiord - Replica

    Be extremely careful and patient at this step. Proceed slowly with only the tip ( 1/16th in. - 2mm max.) of the pick. There are two tinny screws that attach the bottom of the antenna to the iPad frame. This antenna part is easly severed if the pick goes too far.

    Happenned to me and had to replace the antenna.

    Marc Bouchard - Replica

  17. : passo 17, immagine 1 di 2 : passo 17, immagine 2 di 2
    • Questo passaggio richiede di muovere il plettro sotto il bordo inferiore destro del vetro anteriore. L'antenna WiFi è molto vicina all'angolo e si può strappare facilmente se l'adesivo non viene separato correttamente.

    • Non rimuovere del tutto il plettro da sotto il vetro, ma sfilalo solo leggermente in modo che resti infilato per 3 mm.

    • Fai scorrere la punta del plettro sotto il bordo inferiore dell'iPad, separando l'adesivo sopra l'antenna WiFi.

    I nearly broke my wifi antenna because I didn't read this whole step clearly and didn't go backwards and release the antenna from the front panel. Admittedly, this is my own fault but I've edited the step to make this point more clear.

    Logan Kennedy - Replica

    My screen was way too shattered for me to be able to use the screen instructions as suggested, so I followed the general principal but ignored the order around, because that simply wouldn't have worked...and destroyed the antenna.

    Maybe step one should be "BE CAREFUL IN THIS CORNER OR YOU WILL BREAK THE ANTENNA!" A diagram highlighting where all the cables (antenna, digitiser, volume, toggle switch) lie with the screen still attached would be helpful too.

    HRB - Replica

    Or maybe you should have read the entire thing before starting if you were not planing on following it step by step

    Hawesg Garrett -

    I Broke my antenna like many others. It is glued to the glass and has 1mm thick foam backing that is also glued to the inner case. Then there is a tiny grounding connector screwed at the lower edge of the case. Once you can get things loosened up around this antenna, you will need to detach this antenna from the glass. Work at it with your picks or spudger until you get it free, if you do not get it to release from the glass you will break the grounding ribbon. I bought a cheap aftermarket antenna on amazon for $3. turns out it has a bad cable coming from it. I was able to unsolder the cable from the one I broke and solder it to the new antenna.

    chrisnewitt - Replica

    This BEGS for an Archer "Just The Tip" reference.

    Christian - Replica

    It wasn't obvious to me at first that I'd broken the antenna. A picture of the antenna that works compared with one that is broken would be useful. Fortunately I'd ordered the replacement part just in case, as suggested.

    I think using extra heat on this spot may make it easier to unstick without breaking the antenna?

    A diagram of what the antenna looks like, from the side, would make it clearer what to do with the pick. You are trying to detach the antenna from the glass, without ripping it off where it's screwed into the bottom of the ipad. Since you can't see what you are doing, and the antenna is quite fragile, that's tricky.

    I think once you've broken one you would know better how to do it. When you slide the pick to the right you need to be sure the pick is moving above the antenna and not snagging on it in any way, and you need to be sure the antenna is completely detached from the glass, so you don't tear it when you lift the glass up.

    Chris Jordan - Replica

    Can anybody give me a clue as to what the exact part is in step 57, As there are slightly different cables for the ipad 2, Mine is A1395, Thanks.

    Jasper - Replica

    Another lesson learned while removing the WiFi antenna. The photo shows the iPad laying face up on the table, but to see what you’re doing when detaching the antenna you ‘re better off with the iPad edge up so you can see how the antenna is attached. The antenna is very, very easily broken. To be honest, it’s a lot easier to replace a broken antenna than to try to pry it loose.

    nigel - Replica

  18. : passo 18, immagine 1 di 2 : passo 18, immagine 2 di 2
    • Una volta superata l'antenna WiFi (a circa da 75 mm dal bordo destro, o accanto al tasto Home), reinfila il plettro completamente.

    • Fai scorrere il plettro verso destra, rilasciando l'adesivo che fissa l'antenna WiFi al vetro anteriore.

    • L'antenna del WiFi è attaccata al bordo inferiore dell'iPad tramite delle viti e un cavo. Questo passaggio separa l'antenna dal pannello anteriore, assicurando che quando lo rimuoverai l'antenna non verrà danneggiata.

    Be extremely cautious on this step! I did it wrong and my antenna went to !@#$.

    Lars Lien Ankile - Replica

    Also once it is unattached from the front panel, if the antennas adhesive touches the glass again it can re-adhere to front panel and may rip apart after all. Keep a close eye on it or leave a pick or card in there to prevent it from re-sticking.

    Danny Hartley - Replica

    Ordering a replacement antenna to anticipate the one you will brake(I should say shred) is probably your smartest move to have a successful repair

    Sebastien CHAPUIS - Replica

  19. : passo 19, immagine 1 di 3 : passo 19, immagine 2 di 3 : passo 19, immagine 3 di 3
    • Continua a separare l'adesivo sotto il bordo inferiore dell'iPad, sfilando il plettro abbastanza da aggirare il tasto Home e reinfilalo a 10 mm di profondità una volta superato il tasto Home.

    • Se l'adesivo si è raffreddato troppo sotto il bordo inferiore, scalda di nuovo l'iOpener per scaldare l'adesivo mentre lavori.

    • Non scaldare l'iOpener per più di un minuto alla volta e aspetta sempre almeno due minuti prima di riscaldarlo.

  20. : passo 20, immagine 1 di 2 : passo 20, immagine 2 di 2
    • Finisci di separare l'adesivo sotto il bordo inferiore dell'iPad.

    • Sui modelli dell'iPad 4, infila un plettro al massimo per 10 mm in questa zona per evitare di danneggiare il cavo a nastro del tasto Home.

    • Lascia il plettro infilato sotto il vetro anteriore vicino al tasto Home.

    This should include details about the Home Button Ribbon Cable. Unlike an iPad 3 (which doesn't have this cable) the iPad 4 has a Home Button Ribbon Cable that runs along the left side of the Home Button and is adhered to the glass. If the guitar pick is inserted too far (more than 0.5") it is possible to damage or sever this cable.

    robjpete - Replica

    There is a reason this is an iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC-2560 repair guide. This guide isn't for iPad 3 or 4...

    Christian -

    I think the guides carry common steps between them. I'm reading this string of comments on multiple ipad 3/4 repair guides.

    Anticept - Replica

    Can I suggest putting the warning in red at the top of the instruction rather than half-way through it? I work from these guides by scrolling through them as I go, and I'd already put the spudger through the ribbon cable before I read the warning!

    spl23 - Replica

  21. : passo 21, immagine 1 di 1
    • Scalda di nuovo l'iOpener nel microonde e appoggialo sul bordo sinistro dell'iPad per iniziare a riscaldare l'adesivo in quella zona.

    I believe this should say to place the iOpener on the top edge, since the instructions go there next.

    lizgoldnm - Replica

  22. : passo 22, immagine 1 di 3 : passo 22, immagine 2 di 3 : passo 22, immagine 3 di 3
    • Fai scorrere il plettro sotto il bordo superiore dell'iPad, sfilandolo leggermente per aggirare la staffa della fotocamera anteriore.

    • L'adesivo in questa zona è molto spesso e può essere richiesta abbastanza forza. Lavora attentamente e lentamente, assicurandoti di non scivolare e danneggiare te stesso o l'iPad.

    • Se l'adesivo si è raffreddato troppo, riappoggia l'iOpener sul bordo superiore e continua a lavorare. Se l'iOpener si è raffreddato troppo, scaldalo di nuovo.

    • Se il plettro si incastra nell'adesivo, giralo come fatto nel passo 9.

    In my case I damaged the right GSM antenna which was somehow sticked to the front panel... Be really careful as I really didn't felt that I was damaging anything...

    MattLise Gaillzik - Replica

    +1 on the right 3g antenna - it is adhered to the glass and I cut right through it with the opening pick. The replacement included adhesive to re-stick it to the glass, so this is a definite feature of this antenna. This is a thin film similar to the wifi antenna, so maybe going around it at a shallow depth from the corner to the camera and then returning to the corner slightly deeper would allow you to separate the antenna from the glass without damaging it.

    doog - Replica

    Be very careful when going around the front camera, I cracked my screen by prying up too much and causing too much stress!

    Rowdydtk - Replica

    The GSM component is glued to the screen with different adhesive (more like glue). I managed to not damage this but it was really tricky. The guitar pick is too thick and weak to release this from the screen. Id recommend you wait until you lift the glass (future step, NOT NOW). Then, with a good light you'll see the white plastic adhered to the glass. A thin metal pick or exacto is needed to patiently cut & pry your way through the adhesive. Careful of the camera as your pulling in that direction.

    B Kirkham - Replica

  23. : passo 23, immagine 1 di 2 : passo 23, immagine 2 di 2
    • Continua a separare l'adesivo sotto il bordo superiore dell'iPad e fai scorrere il plettro attorno all'angolo in alto a sinistra.

    • Se l'adesivo è caldo abbastanza, rimuovi l'iOpener dall'iPad per comodità. Comunque, se l'adesivo è ancora ben incollato, scalda di nuovo l'iOpener e appoggialo al bordo sinistro mentre lavori.

  24. : passo 24, immagine 1 di 3 : passo 24, immagine 2 di 3 : passo 24, immagine 3 di 3
    • Fai scorrere il plettro sotto il bordo sinistro dell'iPad, separando l'adesivo. L'adesivo è sottile qui a causa della presenza del digitizer lungo tutto il bordo sinistro. Assicurati che il plettro non sia infilato troppo (al massimo 10 mm) per evitare di danneggiare il digitizer.

    • Il cavo del digitizer è posizionato all'incirca a 50 mm dal bordo inferiore dell'iPad. Fermati quando arrivi a ~60mm dal bordo inferiore dell'iPad.

    The second photo does not show the iPad 4's Home Button Ribbon Cable.

    robjpete - Replica

    Because this is for an iPad 2

    Odus182 -

    @odus182 It says clear as day that this is an iPad 4 guide!

    Mike Enos -

    This is the hardest part the digitizer cable runs the length of this side and u have to be very carefull with the pick . Only go in an 1/8 inch I severed it by going the half (recommended) luckily I had a new screen standing by . I used I opener for heating and it was slow but ok.

    wperrin623 - Replica

    How do i fix my digitiser if it's broken? Do i need to buy a new iPad screen with digitiser?

    Jenny Le - Replica

    just ruined my digitiser..any ideas how to fix it?

    dleimonis -

    There is an error in the red text in this step. It says ‘The digitizer cable is located approximately 2" from the bottom of the iPad’. The next sentence says .. ‘Stop sliding the pick when you get ~2.25" from the bottom of the iPad.. This will slice and ruin that cable. The last sentence should read ‘Stop sliding the pick when you get ~1.75" from the bottom of the iPad.’ so you stop cutting glue before you get to the digitizer cable.

    @Jenny & @dleimonis - you can buy the digitizer and new cable by itself if you do not need an LCD also. They are separate parts.

    Jon Lucenius - Replica

  25. : passo 25, immagine 1 di 2 : passo 25, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usando il plettro che è ancora sotto il bordo inferiore dell'iPad, separa l'adesivo sotto l'angolo in basso a sinistra.

    • La parte inferiore del cavo del digitizer è a solo ~25 mm dal bordo inferiore dell'iPad. Lavora attentamente e lentamente, assicurandoti di non strappare questo cavo.

    If your screen is broken or shattered there are no worries with the digitizer cable, It is all on the new screen.

    Danny Hartley - Replica

    Exactly. I purposely severed mine as it was a complete screen replacement and made the LCD removal easier.

    jesseokerlund - Replica

  26. : passo 26, immagine 1 di 2 : passo 26, immagine 2 di 2
    • Usando uno dei plettri, solleva l'angolo in basso a destra dell'iPad e prendilo con le dita.

    • Dell'adesivo lungo il perimetro dell'iPad potrebbe essersi reincollato. Se è successo, fai scorrere un plettro sotto il bordo dell'iPad dove il vetro è ancora incollato e taglia l'adesivo.

    Should be right-hand corner

    longg - Replica

    Be very careful when pushing the guitar pick around the corner of the power/volume buttons. The ribbon cable for these buttons may be stuck to the adhesive and break when lifting the screen or when sliding the pick along this area. I have done 4 iPad 2 repairs and at least one of the delicate components do not make it. I would recommend ordering a wi-fi/bluetooth antenna, bezel with strips, and a power/volume cable. It is nice to have a "just-in-case" part or two, they are very inexpensive. I noticed that the I tended to break one of these delicate components when the screen was shattered in the area of those components.

    thetechandtutor - Replica

    I absolutely severed this cable when loosening the adhesive around the volume button area. There is really no way of knowing if this cable somewhat elevated from the frame and therefore susceptible to being cut, and it happens to be right where one starts to remove the face with the guitar picks. The cable is directly in from the down volume button, so be extra careful not to put the guitar pick in too far in this area. I recommend buying a power/volume button cable just in case. Replacing this cable is also not easy, but doable. Just try to avoid doing it.

    nickmalmquist - Replica

    At this point it is a good idea to get the packing tape back out and wrap it around 2 or 3 of your fingers making a circle with the sticky on the outside. Make it loose enough you can place your fingers on the table surface to the side and pull your fingers out. When you remove all the tiny parts/screws in the next steps put them on top of the tape so you know exactly where they are when you need them

    windizy - Replica

  27. : passo 27, immagine 1 di 2 : passo 27, immagine 2 di 2
    • Tenendo l'iPad dagli angoli in lato a destra ed in basso a destra, ruota il vetro lontano dall'iPad.

    • Stai attento all'adesivo che potrebbe essere ancora incollato ed usa un plettro per tagliarlo.

    • Durante il rimontaggio, usa un panno in microfibra e dell'aria compressa per pulire la polvere o le ditate sul pannello LCD prima di installare il vetro.

    Check to the right of the Home button to see if the wifi/bluetooth antenna is still stuck to the glass side or has released. If it is still stuck to the glass use the guitar pick to carefully scrape it off. If your goal is to replace the antenna, then you needn't be so careful.

    jerry81 - Replica

    Be very careful not to touch the LCD. It's a pain to remove smudges. One thing that might help when you need to hold it while reattaching it during reassembly: attach a small suction cup to the metal side. That way you can avoid touching the sides where your hand might slip to the LCD side.

    patjmccarthy - Replica

    Do you need to use some adhesive strips to remount the plastic bezel? The bezel I ordered didn't come with any and the ones you can order only seem to have strips for mounting the glass and not the bezel.

    James - Replica

    You'd better. The original bezel is glued. You can find 3mm fine/double-sided (black) tape on Amazon. I use it when I replace the bezel because they fit perfectly under the bezel. I use for all sorts of repairs on iPhones, Samsungs, etc. Such as this [one|]

    Rany -

    In order to prevent touching the LCD screen with your finger(s), I use the thin plastic food wrapper to cover it. It will temporary stick to the LCD screen and provide excellent protection from fingerprints.

    Th Th - Replica

    Very good suggestion. It worked like a charm.

    Laurie Higgins -

    you can use latex gloves to keep smudges and finger prints from the screen. I'm getting ready to repair mine, thanks for all the comments and tips. Btw, I wonder if a vacuum cleaner would work for removing small pieces of glass.

    De Dios sept.10 2014

    dediosjon - Replica

    where is the connecotr for home button at the ipad 3....i have nothin where i can plug in the flex cable comin from the button

    Georg Heinze - Replica

    Go slowly as you lift up the glass and be sure that you are not tearing a ribbon cable. When I lifted the glass the digitizer cable was torn and unusable. Perhaps I had cut it with the pick/spudger but it tore completely off when I lifted the glass. Good thing I had purchased the full front panel assembly with the digitizer (IF116-018-3).

    robertmhussey - Replica

    When reassembling I used canned air to blow off dust on the LCD before closing it up.

    robertmhussey - Replica

    You can use a clean soft brush like a make-up brush or small paint brush to brush off the LCD.

    Laurie Higgins - Replica

    I like how the pictures show an intact screen being removed (although the one in step 4 has a couple of cracks in). I don’t know if anyone would have the luxury of being able to remove a screen in one piece, the ipads I've fixed have been completely smashed pretty much all the way around the outside of the lcd underneath. I used this guide to know where to watch for cables etc - very helpful. I end up using a window scraper/razor to scrape off the glass shards/adhesive around the edge. Glass shards/dust all over the lcd is easy enough to get off but cleaning the lcd after that is a real pain. Does anyone have any suggestions how to clean the lcd properly?

    jmzaj - Replica

    When reassembling the glass, align the camera first. On the back of the glass there are two pins on the metal camera frame.

    Align them to the camera first, in order to avoid to get a ‘bulge’ visible on the glass or on the back of the iPad.

    Luca Forti - Replica

    +1 to Luca’s comment. This deserves a RED NOTE for reassembly. I probably just destroyed my new wifi antenna due to not having a reassembly call out for alignment of the screen. Had to pry things back apart and wifi antenna looks like it may have bit the dust. So this is a VERY important bit to know for a first timer.

    Benjamin Pappas - Replica

    When reinstalling the front panel check the home button’s ribbon cable doesn’t get trapped. If it gets folded back on itself, the cable will break and you’ll have a reassembled iPad with a non-functioning home button.

    nigel - Replica

  28. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 28, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD to the aluminum frame.

    What is the diameter/pitch of these screws in case someone (myself) loses them?

    john Scrivener - Replica

    At this step, since I was replacing the glass and the digitizer anyway, I simply cut the digitizer cable and set aside the largest piece of glass. Since the shattered section was over most of the digitizer cable, this made working with the remaining glass shards much easier.

    medhatmactech - Replica

  29. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 29, immagine 1 di 3 : passo 29, immagine 2 di 3 : passo 29, immagine 3 di 3
    • Using a plastic opening tool or a spudger, lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad.

    • Rotate the LCD along its left edge and lay it down on top of the front panel.

    • Be careful as you move the LCD. The ribbon cable is fragile and may break if it is flexed too much.

  30. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 30, immagine 1 di 1
    • Using the tip of a spudger, peel back the piece of tape covering the LCD ribbon cable connector.

    Before removing the ribbon cable, remove the screw and place one of the picks or a small strip of paper between the edge of the battery and where you removed the screw. You will probably need to use your opening tool a little to help you get the pick in place. You don't want to accidentally turn your iPad on while working on it. It can cause the backlight of your screen to be low when you power your iPad back on and then you can't see where to type your passcode (if you did not turn it off before the repair) or where to swipe to unlock your screen.

    Laurie Higgins - Replica

  31. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 31, immagine 1 di 3 : passo 31, immagine 2 di 3 : passo 31, immagine 3 di 3
    • Flip up the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

    • Using your fingers or a pair of tweezers, pull the LCD ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.

    IMPORTANT NOTE REGARDING ZIF CONNECTOR: The cable can be removed in the locked position [not recommended]. However, when reinserting the cable, if the ZIF connector is not unlocked, the connection WILL NOT FUNCTION! This is a possible fail point and reason for ending up with an LCD screen that doesn't work in an otherwise functioning iPad. Be certain that the ZIF connector is unlocked prior to reinserting the cable contact. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE TO FLIP BACK DOWN AND RE-ENGAGE [Lock] the ZIF Connecting clip after reinstalling the cable connector. This comment applies to ALL 3 ZIF connectors [2 for digitizer, 1 for LCD].

    jsherry2 - Replica

    The description of the "retaining flap" that needs to be "flipped up" should be more precise. It's a tiny length of black plastic that blends in with the surrounding black materials and just looks like a part of the casing around the ZIP connector. Even the photo's don't really show what is being done. I started picking away at the teeth of the ZIP connector before I got nervous, and randomly picked at the "flap", breaking it off in the process.

    So, my version would say something like..."The ZIP connector is locked in place by a small, black length of plastic just below the connector pins. This piece of plastic must be carefully picked at from below with the spudger until it pivots upright. During reassembly it is crucial that it be repivoted back down into position in order to establish the connection."

    otterhouse - Replica

    Maybe the directions should state that you will have to do the same disconnect for the digitizer. Also I was not expecting to find the home button ribbon on the bottom left and almost severed it during the disassembly, that too should be added. Could not have done it with out this guide. Thanks

    Mike Beagan - Replica

    Careful is not always enough. In my case ZIF fell off from LCD connector when re-attaching. Seems not broken...I solved it by applying pressure with some tape. Otherwise I experiecned no problems with wifi antenna or other sensitive areas, I was shallow in my prying and used a metal scalpel instead of plastic pryers. Thanks for great guide.

    jan - Replica

    For novices like me, this step needs better illustration/explanation. I couldn't tell what the retaining strip was from the photo, and, if not for the comments, would have been oblivious to the necessity for finding and handling it, instead thinking it to be related only to the position of the connector strip.

    lainelee - Replica

    I am One Of those lucky ones who did this successfully .I would Strongly recomend that appy the most amount of heat at the Thop Right Portion<In LANDSCAPE ORIENTATION >. Or else ther is a 70% chance u will crack the Digitizer(which I did as this was the first repair that I have done on an iDevice) and if the crack extends across the digitizer then it would render the digitizer useless.Thanx

    Arimitra Chakrabarti - Replica

    Also place an A4 Sheet over the new LCD so as to prevent any accumulation of Dust

    Also you may buy any the from any site as long as it is reliable .Placing the glue strips can be a pain staking process.It any site claims to have an OEM LCD or 100% Original Display be 100% sure that it is a fake.usually the replacements are 80%-90% Original.

    Arimitra Chakrabarti - Replica

    I would echo the other comments about how precise this is. And unlike many similar internal laptop connectors, the retaining flap flips up from the opposite side of the ZIP connector. I was initially picking at it from the ribbon cable side and it wasn't coming up. The pics don't make this crystal clear. Start from the battery/opposite side of the ribbon cable and pick at it. Also, getting the ZIP connector back in was perilous! I scratched it using the pokey tweezers that came with the kit, but luckily everything worked.

    jesseokerlund - Replica

    agree with all comments above, this needs clarification and it is probably the most important step, since the zif is attached to the logic board: I have probably damaged one of the pins so my ipad doesn't respond on the first top 2 cms and similarly on the right: I will open it again :\

    Edoardo Ceccarelli - Replica

    I would recommend that you clean the ZIF connectors from this step and in Step 32 with compressed air or a soft brush after removing the ribbon. That proved to be the problem for me when after replacing my digitizer the screen had "dead" areas that did not respond to touch.

    Laurie Higgins - Replica

    Dear ifixit, how about updating this panel replacement tutorial based on the important comments that have been posted here? It has only been like 5 years or so, and were it not for the critically essential comments posted here, I’m sure these instructions would have resulted in far more many failures on this replacement than is necessary. I love ifixit and empowering folks to manage these repairs on their own, but please stick to giving folks the absolutely best advice available!

    Dave - Replica

  32. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 32, immagine 1 di 1
    • Without touching the front of the LCD, lift the LCD off the front panel.

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Altre 107 persone hanno completato questa guida.

8 Commenti

I've done this repair over a dozen times and it gets easier each time. However, I finally came across a completely shattered iPad screen that was a complete pain to remove due to the fact that it didn't come of in larger pieces but in little shards! It never gets boring with these repairs! The feeling of relief and accomplishment when it all works in the end is always a PLUS!

lattestonetech24 - Replica

I have just attempted this and now the LCD doesn't come back on (haven't sealed it back together yet). Have I broken the LCD cable or am I missing something???

claudiasimon - Replica


Suite au changement de du verre tactile sur mon iPad 3 il n y a plus de rétro éclairage quelques un sait il comment faire pour réactiver le rétro éclairage

Merci d avance

Ncolas - Replica

D’après la description, je dirais que soir le ruban de connexion du LCD n’est pas bien inséré, soit le connecteur a été endommagé :-(

cortig -

Hello! with this great tutorial, i managed to change the glass of the iPad.

Thank you so much! The screen works just fine, but the "touch-function" is inoperable.

Anyone got some ideas? I just checked the double wire is in correct place.

maybe there is a problem with the new glass?

mathiasparyla - Replica

I had the same issue. Actually, the connector for the digitizer/screen needs a lot more force than I anticipated to be inserted correctly. The little white lines on the ribbon need to completely disappear.

Once I made sure it was all the way in, it worked just fine for me.

cortig -

Hello Cortig!

That was it.

I just could not believe the amount of force needed to insert the connector properly.

Now my display works just fine as well!

mathiasparyla -

Thanks iFixit for the lightning fast shipping and the great quality kit!

Great experience thanks to you guys that made this time consuming repair better.

Catalin STOICA - Replica

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