Salta al contenuto principale

Aggiusta la tua roba

Diritto alla Riparazione

Componenti & Strumenti

Introduzione

Removing the display on an iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K requires cutting through the adhesive around the perimeter of the screen. After the adhesive is cut, it cannot be used to re-seal the display in place, so you'll need to apply a new set of adhesive strips.

    • With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs can be completed as shown, but are faster and easier with an iMac service wedge.

    • If you are not using an iMac service wedge, be very careful when installing and working behind the display—it can easily fall out and break if the iMac moves unexpectedly.

    I found that using a couple of paperbacks (one larger than the other) performed the same function - taller one placed to the rear of the stand and the other one in front accommodated the curvature perfectly.

    robinsnaddon - Replica

    For point 10 of this guide: iMac 27” 2017 has a relocated microphone position, so if you follow this guide, the mic ist not working after applying the tape.

    Make sure to let the microphone out, its located on the lower edge, right of the apple.

    Also the tape Stips on the upper edge are 2mm too long, and on the upper right it does not fit to the antenna area, so they have to be shortened and cut in the right shape.

    maccy - Replica

  1. Before you start placing strips, remove all of the old adhesive from around the perimeter of the rear enclosure. If you are re-using your existing display, you must also remove the old adhesive from the back of the display.
    • Before you start placing strips, remove all of the old adhesive from around the perimeter of the rear enclosure.

    • If you are re-using your existing display, you must also remove the old adhesive from the back of the display.

    • Peel off the old strips of adhesive using tweezers or your fingers. Start at the bottom and peel upward towards the top of the device.

    • After all the old adhesive is removed, carefully clean the area under the adhesive with 90% (or greater) isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. Wipe in one direction, not back and forth.

    • Don't skip this step, or your new adhesive strips may not bond properly, and the display may fall out of your iMac.

    I've done this on several iMacs now, but today I noticed another layer of thin black plastic stuck to the back of the display.

    It was really tough to remove and left a lot of clear, sticky goop under it.

    It's really thin, but it was strong enough to hold the screen in place by itself - I reconnected the display cables and tested before pulling the backing off the new adhesive strips - and it stuck together!

    I had to pry it apart again and it actually ripped my new glue strips in 2 or 3 places. I was able to still use them, but it did not go as smoothly as other iMacs I've upgraded. Everything was fine in the end, but I left some blue painters tape on the top of the screen overnight so the glue strips will set up without the screen falling off - just to be on the safe side.

    Does anyone know if this last layer of black plastic on the screen should be removed or left in place when replacing the glue strips?

    Daniel Cassel - Replica

    That Black layer of plastic should not be removed. I found that on some segments, upon peeling back old adhesive remnants, the thin black plastic layer would also begin to peel off. STOP and cut off what has been removed, separate the black plastic strip from the adhesive remnant you are peeling off. The continue removing remnants.

    lamajr - Replica

    Are you sure that you’re not supposed to pull the black backing all the way off? I removed all the black strips before getting to this step.

    Tom Tompkins - Replica

    IMHO: The rubbing alcohol is clutch for this step. There’s plenty of residue after pulling up the old adhesive and the 99% Isopropyl Alcohol really took the tacky remnants off.

    Ben Hannam - Replica

    To add on to the rubbing alcohol thing for removing residue, the alcohol doesn’t actually dissolve the adhesive residue, but softens it and makes it easier to get up. But you still have to actually remove it. I found that once you peel up the big pieces of adhesive, you’re still gonna have a some sticky residue. Here’s what worked for me:

    1) You want to go section by section, using a clean piece of non-linty cloth wet with alcohol to get the glue residue nice and wet. As it says in the instructions, don’t wipe back and forth, but wipe the residue along in one direction instead of just spreading it around.

    2) The plastic spudger that came with your repair kit (or the end of a credit card or something plastic that won’t cause damage) can be used as a little trowel to push the adhesive along and gather it up into a little booger-like hunk of goo.

    3) At that point, you can wipe it off with a clean, dry piece of cloth. Why dry? Because it won’t really stick to the alcohol-soaked one but will stick to a dry cloth.

    Damian Chadwick - Replica

    It still took me a solid half-hour easily to go along all the edges and get them as clean as possible. I had to go over some sections a few times. This might have been overkill, but I really really didn’t want to go through all this and then find that the new adhesive strips weren’t holding because there was old gunk I hadn’t removed.

    Damian Chadwick - Replica

    The careful removal of the adhesive is very, very important. Take that from a guy who didn’t carefully remove the adhesive and was awakened in the middle of the night by the screen coming off of the iMac and crashing to the floor. That was a bad night.

    Gary Bandy - Replica

  2. Start with strip 13, which goes on the right vertical side of the rear enclosure. Before peeling off any backing, line it up against the frame of the iMac to get an idea of where it goes. Peel the short piece of backing off the back of the strip.
    • Start with strip 13, which goes on the right vertical side of the rear enclosure.

    • Before peeling off any backing, line it up against the frame of the iMac to get an idea of where it goes.

    • Peel the short piece of backing off the back of the strip.

  3. Insert the tip of a spudger into the hole at the top of the strip from the side that still has a backing on it. Insert the tip of a spudger into the hole at the top of the strip from the side that still has a backing on it.
    • Insert the tip of a spudger into the hole at the top of the strip from the side that still has a backing on it.

  4. With the spudger still poking through the hole in the adhesive strip, push the spudger tip into the corresponding hole in the frame of the iMac. Using the hole and spudger to anchor the position of the adhesive strip, line the strip up against the right edge, gently pull down against the spudger to ensure the strip is taut, and stick it onto the frame. Using the hole and spudger to anchor the position of the adhesive strip, line the strip up against the right edge, gently pull down against the spudger to ensure the strip is taut, and stick it onto the frame.
    • With the spudger still poking through the hole in the adhesive strip, push the spudger tip into the corresponding hole in the frame of the iMac.

    • Using the hole and spudger to anchor the position of the adhesive strip, line the strip up against the right edge, gently pull down against the spudger to ensure the strip is taut, and stick it onto the frame.

  5. Once you're satisfied that the top half of the adhesive strip is neatly aligned, peel the longer piece of backing out from behind the strip. If the top half isn't aligned properly, you can carefully peel it up and re-stick it before peeling off the lower backing strip. Be sure to use the spudger tip to anchor the top. If the top half isn't aligned properly, you can carefully peel it up and re-stick it before peeling off the lower backing strip. Be sure to use the spudger tip to anchor the top.
    • Once you're satisfied that the top half of the adhesive strip is neatly aligned, peel the longer piece of backing out from behind the strip.

    • If the top half isn't aligned properly, you can carefully peel it up and re-stick it before peeling off the lower backing strip. Be sure to use the spudger tip to anchor the top.

  6. Align the lower portion of the strip with the right edge of the frame, and stick it down. Align the lower portion of the strip with the right edge of the frame, and stick it down.
    • Align the lower portion of the strip with the right edge of the frame, and stick it down.

  7. Use your finger to smooth all of strip 13. Make sure it is neatly aligned with the right side of the frame and that it sits flat. Do not peel off the front adhesive backing yet.
    • Use your finger to smooth all of strip 13. Make sure it is neatly aligned with the right side of the frame and that it sits flat.

    • Do not peel off the front adhesive backing yet.

  8. Nintendo Switch Kits

    A quick fix to get back in the game

    Shop Switch Kits

    Nintendo Switch Kits

    A quick fix to get back in the game

    Shop Switch Kits
  9. Work your way around the perimeter of the iMac, adding three more adhesive strips in the same manner. Working counter-clockwise from strip 13, place:
    • Work your way around the perimeter of the iMac, adding three more adhesive strips in the same manner.

    • Working counter-clockwise from strip 13, place:

    • strip 12 on the top right

    • strip 11 on the top left

    • strip 16 on the left vertical

    • These three strips have a hole at each end—always use the smaller hole for alignment for more precise placement.

    • On the iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display, strip 12's blue tabs will not line up with the top antenna in the same way as the regular model. This is perfectly acceptable and won't impact the performance of the strips or antenna.

    Number 11 is WAY too long and had to be cut. Not good.

    Brian Peixinho - Replica

  10. The two remaining strips (14 and 15) do not have guide holes and are more difficult to place than the previous ones. Before sticking them down, we recommend first setting them in their respective places on the iMac to get comfortable with their placement. Grasp the red film pull tab on the 14 adhesive strip and pull to remove the backing from the strip. Align the strip on the bottom edge of the rear enclosure, directly to the right of the middle screw on that edge.
    • The two remaining strips (14 and 15) do not have guide holes and are more difficult to place than the previous ones. Before sticking them down, we recommend first setting them in their respective places on the iMac to get comfortable with their placement.

    • Grasp the red film pull tab on the 14 adhesive strip and pull to remove the backing from the strip.

    • Align the strip on the bottom edge of the rear enclosure, directly to the right of the middle screw on that edge.

    • Run your finger along the length of the adhesive strip to ensure it is straight and unwrinkled, pressing down as you go to adhere the strip to the iMac.

    Using iFixIt’s adhesive strips, i cannot strip off the white backing. Pulling on the tab pulls the wrong backing off, the black backing. I can:t figure a way to do this correctly!

    Charles Lindauer - Replica

    Same with mine, but carefully using a razor blade to separate the white side from the adhesive, leaving the clear side attached, then remove the white side and place accordingly.

    Phill -

    The video shows the correct method - attach these strips to the back of the screen rather than the iMac itself.

    robinsnaddon - Replica

    The Video can be found at macsales.com support site. Here’s the link:

    https://eshop.macsales.com/installvideos...

    got to 07:48

    lamajr - Replica

    The instructions at this step need to be re-written. The Bullet point that says “Align the strip on the bottom edge of the rear enclosure” is misleading. Strips 14 and 15 are to be Placed on the Bottom Back Edge of the Display! Also note that the way these strips have been manufactured they are a bit funky. They will be placed with the DARK SIDE up, but the film covering the adhesive on these is tough to get properly separated, fortunately I had not cut my nails recently, so I was able to finally get it off after several minutes.

    steve - Replica

    I did this step according to this written guide, and honestly the result was not good, plus it is much harder to put the display back on when the 14 and 15 strip adhesive is attached onto the computer.

    The video (also from ifixit) shows the correct way, putting strip 14 and 15 on the LCD itself. Have done it like this on a previous iMac I had and the results were much more pleasing.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSChIAlX...

    robertdanielsson - Replica

    There is a problem with step 10 of this guide for 27” iMac 5K Display 2019! If you follow step 10 as it is, the iMac microphone port is blocked with adhesive. After following this guide I had to buy an extra set of adhesive strips and reopen my iMac to fix the muffled microphone problem! The correct application of the adhesives in step 10 is described in iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Adhesive Strips Replacement guide iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Adhesive Strips Replacement

    Please do update this guide accordingly!

    Martins Medens - Replica

    LEARN FROM MY MISTAKE: Yes, the video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSChIAlX...) IS right on this step, but I did something stupid. I based the rest of my screen re-install based on the video, instead of using the rest of this guide (I know, I know, I should have read the whole thing first… I assumed this was the easy part after replacing my hard drive). All that to say, the video doesn’t include any of the helpful painters tape stuff, so I ended up eyeballing the screen with active adhesive, and it ended up slightly misaligned. When I saw the mistake, it was too late to change anything. It’s a very small error, but a noticeable one if you run your finger along the top of the glass, but I am still kicking myself for messing the final step up after an otherwise successful install.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ - Replica

  11. Repeat the previous step for the 15 adhesive strip, placing it along the left half of the bottom of edge of the iMac. Once you've applied all the adhesive strips, the iMac should look as shown in the photo.
    • Repeat the previous step for the 15 adhesive strip, placing it along the left half of the bottom of edge of the iMac.

    • Once you've applied all the adhesive strips, the iMac should look as shown in the photo.

    You've really got to pay particular attention to exactly where to stick these - especially the short right-angle part as it doesn't go on the back of the glass as you might expect but actually over part of the edge of the LCD. It's also really difficult to remove and reposition the stickers since they will stretch when pulling them off.

    David - Replica

    Note on the newer iMacs, the microphone is located on the right side of the lower edge. Make sure not to cover this up with tape or your microphone won’t work.

    veenenen - Replica

  12. Gently lay the display in place over the iMac, and align it carefully. Gently lay the display in place over the iMac, and align it carefully.
    • Gently lay the display in place over the iMac, and align it carefully.

    Isn’t the step of peeling off the bottom sticker missing?

    alessandroteruzzi - Replica

  13. Use painter's tape or masking tape to temporarily secure the bottom edge of the display to the iMac's enclosure. The tape preserves the display's alignment, and allows you to safely swing the top edge of the display open to access the display cables.
    • Use painter's tape or masking tape to temporarily secure the bottom edge of the display to the iMac's enclosure.

    • The tape preserves the display's alignment, and allows you to safely swing the top edge of the display open to access the display cables.

  14. At this point it's a good idea to test your repair, in order to make sure your iMac works properly before you seal it back up. Follow the next three steps to temporarily reconnect the display cables and boot up your iMac prior to pulling the protective film off the adhesive strips. If you've already verified that your iMac is working correctly and are ready to seal it up, skip to Step 16. Gently insert the display data connector into its socket on the logic board. Be sure to press it straight into the socket, and insert it completely.
    • At this point it's a good idea to test your repair, in order to make sure your iMac works properly before you seal it back up. Follow the next three steps to temporarily reconnect the display cables and boot up your iMac prior to pulling the protective film off the adhesive strips.

    • If you've already verified that your iMac is working correctly and are ready to seal it up, skip to Step 16.

    • Gently insert the display data connector into its socket on the logic board. Be sure to press it straight into the socket, and insert it completely.

    • Flip the display data connector lock down onto the socket.

    • Insert the display power connector into its socket on the logic board.

  15. Set the display back on the iMac's rear enclosure. At this time, plug in your iMac, power it on, and test your repair before moving on to actually sealing up the computer. Be sure to check for full functionality of any hardware you removed or disconnected.
    • Set the display back on the iMac's rear enclosure.

    • At this time, plug in your iMac, power it on, and test your repair before moving on to actually sealing up the computer. Be sure to check for full functionality of any hardware you removed or disconnected.

    • When you are finished, shut the iMac down and unplug the power cord before you continue.

  16. Verify that your iMac is turned off and unplugged from power before you continue. After confirming that your iMac functions properly, disconnect the display cables and carefully lean the display forward.
    • Verify that your iMac is turned off and unplugged from power before you continue.

    • After confirming that your iMac functions properly, disconnect the display cables and carefully lean the display forward.

    • Remove the film from the 15 strip by reaching in from above and pulling the tab straight up from the bottom edge of the display.

  17. Repeat the previous step for the 14 strip.
    • Repeat the previous step for the 14 strip.

  18. Reconnect the display power and data cables for the final time. Remember to secure the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable. Remember to secure the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.
    • Reconnect the display power and data cables for the final time.

    • Remember to secure the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

  19. Check the glass directly in front of the webcam for dust and other contaminants. If necessary, wipe it down with a microfiber cloth before you seal up the display. Steady the display with one hand as you remove the adhesive liners in the following steps, or rest it lightly against the iMac's enclosure. Steady the display with one hand as you remove the adhesive liners in the following steps, or rest it lightly against the iMac's enclosure.
    • Check the glass directly in front of the webcam for dust and other contaminants. If necessary, wipe it down with a microfiber cloth before you seal up the display.

    • Steady the display with one hand as you remove the adhesive liners in the following steps, or rest it lightly against the iMac's enclosure.

  20. Remove one side of the protective film from Strip 11 by pulling its tab straight up. Remove one side of the protective film from Strip 11 by pulling its tab straight up. Remove one side of the protective film from Strip 11 by pulling its tab straight up.
    • Remove one side of the protective film from Strip 11 by pulling its tab straight up.

  21. Remove the other side of the protective film from strip 11. Remove the other side of the protective film from strip 11.
    • Remove the other side of the protective film from strip 11.

  22. Repeat the previous steps to remove the protective films from all the remaining adhesive strips (labeled 11, 12, and 13). Repeat the previous steps to remove the protective films from all the remaining adhesive strips (labeled 11, 12, and 13).
    • Repeat the previous steps to remove the protective films from all the remaining adhesive strips (labeled 11, 12, and 13).

    my number 13 stripe is broken in the middle. :( the last one. :(

    anonymous 8397 - Replica

  23. Remove the tape securing the display to the rear enclosure. To ensure a strong bond, carefully tip the iMac flat on its back (with the screen facing straight up) and press carefully but firmly around all four edges of the display.
    • Remove the tape securing the display to the rear enclosure.

    • To ensure a strong bond, carefully tip the iMac flat on its back (with the screen facing straight up) and press carefully but firmly around all four edges of the display.

Linea Traguardo

Altre 164 persone hanno completato questa guida.

Sam Goldheart

Membro da: 18/10/2012

414.003 Reputazione

547 Guide realizzate

Team

iFixit Membro di iFixit

Community

125 Membri

11.821 Guide realizzate

This guide works great. Replaced a 2015 IMAC 27" screen without any difficulty especially since I purchased the Ifixit tape kit and removal tools. Thanks guys and gals. Couldn't do it without you.

gordywat - Replica

will this work on late 2015 27"5k iMac

ffjones54 - Replica

Hello, I got a Late 2015 iMac 5K, are the stripes the same?

filmore - Replica

yes .it works

Walter Fontes -

Yes this adhesive strip replacement kit works for the Late 2015 Retina 5K iMac. As mentioned in step 8, the tabs for strip 12 won't line up exactly the same as shown in the guide but it does not matter. It still works and will not interfere with that antenna.

smudge - Replica

Does this work with iMac 27 2017?

macdeutsche - Replica

Used these guides to replace the cpu and ssd’s in my 2015 iMac 27”. Super easy! And yes with a late 2015 model, the cpu is replaceable with a regular Skylake cpu. I bought a 3.2 i5 model and replaced with a 6700K ! And yes these also take 64GB of DDR3. For the PCIE SSD you can get an adapter off of ebay…look for m.2 to iMac adapter…since they’re cheap I recommend getting like 2-3 and figuring out which one works best with your m.2 ssd. So yeah, you can get a 1TB m.2 AND a 1TB 2.5” ssd in this and have a nice little box for peanuts.

Michael Stram - Replica

Friends! This manual and accessories are compatible with the iMac 27 5K 2017?

Anton Gudzuman - Replica

Hi,

I done all of the above on my 2017 27inch iMac and now my microphone won’t work, when I tap the enclosure it reacts but it doesn’t hear my voice commands. Maybe the adhesive tape got stuck on the microphone somehow. where is the microphone located exactly? Help please……

Best regards, Henk

Henk - Replica

I have the same problem. Were you able to fix it?

Andrew Blackman -

I know this is an old question, but I wanted to post a followup so hopefully, no one else makes this mistake. The microphone is located on the lower edge. Here’s the thread that covers this better. Microphone very muffled after sealing up iMac

veenenen -

ottimo complimenti per i dettagli

guida superlativa e precisa grazie del vostro aiuto

gennariello1966@gmail.com - Replica

I did it! Be very careful when you place the tape at the bottom of the screen. The screen can fall off! Also important to keep the imac standing and not laying on it’s back because it will make it hard to remove the bottom adhesives.

Jonathan Meson - Replica

After following to the letter, the screen came off and went back on just fine. 5 days later (while setting in a cool environment) the screen just came unstuck and fell out sometime during the night, Of course it tore the two cables badly in addition to the antenna wires that must have gotten in the way somehow. Took most all day, but was able to the wifi and bluetooth wires back in place and the power cable (4 connector) plug back in. The hardest part was the ribbon cable. With high magnification hood on, was finally able to get it back in it’s socket. Had to tape it down to the rest of the board so it would stay. Used new sealant strips, then CLAMPED with spring clamps (around 12 of um) then laid it flat, screen up, then put it near a baseboard heater for two hours. Temp gun was around 100* all around it. Hopefully that won’t happen again!!

avflyguy - Replica

Excellent write up. Also, the detailed photos were super helpful in seeing the alignment.

The only hiccup I had was trying to remove the final tabs from strip 15 and 14 while the glass was blue taped down. I had to lift the weight of the glass panel off of the tab strips before they came off. Aside from that, a very smooth install, and very quality product. Thanks!

Jonathan Daiello - Replica

Excellent guide. Many thanks.

jhlincoln - Replica

Make sure you totally clean both surfaces. The back of the display can be a real pain. I know someone who told me he replaced the PCI SSD and it all went smooth (same thing I did plus a SATA SSD and new thermal paste) but a few weeks later to his HORROR the 5k display was smashed on his office floor. Make sure to really clean and press on all sides. Keeping some painters tape on the top corners wouldn’t hurt either for a few weeks to make sure it seats well.

Brian Peixinho - Replica

Thank you! Just completed this after an SSD upgrade to my 2015 iMac. Much appreciated Sam!

Kaiser Soze - Replica

would be REALLY nice to have this linked on every single repair page. there was NO MENTION of replacing the adhesive strips at the end of the hard drive replacement guide, and i am now staring at a smashed LCD display that will set me back $600 to replace. very frustrating as I usually love ifixit guides. please consider adding a heavily red-flagged link to this guide and information to every guide that requires removing the display.

Coleman Howard - Replica

This was a super useful guide that formed the closing stage of repairing my old iMac 27” (late 2012). I replaced the power supply and upgraded to an SSD. Thank you so much for taking the time to prepare and improve these guides. They are invaluable and enabling.

Nickie Daniel - Replica

Aggiungi Commento

Visualizza Statistiche:

Ultime 24 Ore: 39

Ultimi 7 Giorni: 304

Ultimi 30 Giorni: 1,332

Tutti i Tempi: 73,835