Introduzione

Utilizzare questa guida per sostituire o aggiornare il disco rigido per ottenere maggiore spazio di archiviazione.

Poggiare l'iMac sul lato anteriore su un tavolo, con il bordo inferiore rivolto verso l'utente.
  • Poggiare l'iMac sul lato anteriore su un tavolo, con il bordo inferiore rivolto verso l'utente.

  • Allentare la vite con testa a croce al centro dello sportello di accesso.

  • La vite resta all'interno dello sportello di accesso.

  • Rimuovere lo sportello di accesso dall'iMac.

The grid won't fall off by itself. You'll have to help it. Use the smallest screwdriver you have; the Torx 6 worked fine for me. It should enter in one of the many holes composing the grid. Use it as a lever to ploy the grid a little bit. You may catch it with your fingers and that's it.

Be carefull not to damage the hole by a too strong leverage.

Laurent - Replica

much more safer to use duct tape, instead of torx 6. (glue it along the length of the grid and pull). it will loose instantly and smooth;)

Hofmann78rus - Replica

Anyone know a guide to replace the plastic piece this screw connects to? I accidentally forgot this step - went to remove the front bezel and bent the plastic piece the access door connects to.

Jason Augustin - Replica

Il pannello di vetro è fissato nella mascherina anteriore con quattordici magneti posizionati lungo il perimetro.
  • Il pannello di vetro è fissato nella mascherina anteriore con quattordici magneti posizionati lungo il perimetro.

  • Far aderire due ventose agli angoli opposti del pannello di vetro.

  • Per far aderire le nostre ventose, per prima cosa posizionarle con la maniglia semovente parallela alla superficie del pannello di vetro. Tenendo delicatamente la ventosa contro il vetro, sollevare la maniglia semovente finché non è parallela all'altra maniglia.

  • Se la ventosa non aderisce, provare a ripulire il pannello di vetro e la ventosa con un solvente delicato.

A good alternative to the two heavy duty suction cups is a regular household plunger.

Russell Knight - Replica

Also, 2" wide packing tape. Maybe a 6 or 8" piece, folded in the middle to give you say, a 1-2" "handle". Make a pair of these. They look like a capital T but with a short vertical part (the handle), and a wide top I the sticky wings). Get the good 3M tape, it's strong, and it peels off clean without leaving any glue from the screen.

Barry Coyle - Replica

for me one household plunger did the trick!

Ronald Huygen - Replica

  • Estrai delicatamente il pannello di vetro dall'iMac.

  • Il pannello di vetro presenta diversi piedini di posizionamento lungo il perimetro. Per evitare di staccare i piedini dal pannello di vetro, fare attenzione a rimuoverlo solo tirando verso l'alto.

  • Pulire con attenzione la parte interna del pannello di vetro e l'LCD, poiché la polvere e le impronte digitali saranno sgradevolmente visibili durante l'accensione del display.

  • Quando sostituisci il vetro, assicurati che non ci sia nulla tra il vetro stesso e il suo supporto. Eventuali cavi volanti potrebbero danneggiarsi o rompere il pannello.

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  • Rimuovere le 12 viti seguenti, che fissano la mascherina anteriore al case posteriore:

    • Otto viti Torx T8 da 13 mm.

    • Quattro viti Torx T8 da 25 mm.

  • Nell'iMac Intel modello A1225 da 24", le due viti nella parte inferiore centrale sono lunghe (26 mm), le quattro ai lati (due a sinistra, due a destra) sono medie (18 mm) e le restanti 6 (quattro nella parte superiore e due negli angoli inferiori) sono corte (14 mm).

I would strongly suggest taping the screws down on a piece of paper towel or cloth in the same order you take them out, as there are different lengths in no particular order and they don't all fit into just any hole. Unless you keep track of which hole each screw belongs, there is no other way of knowing. I stress taping because I didn't tape mine down and after bumping the table I was working on they scattered, leaving me to guess.

Len - Replica

Even better, use an ice cube tray to keep the screws from each step together.

maccentric - Replica

how about using the magnets near the screws to keep their positions?

Andy - Replica

I use an 18 count egg carton (or two) and label each egg slot with a Sharpie. Works great.

airira - Replica

As a rule with iFixit repairs, for years I've been printing the guides, applying scotch magic tape near each picture (which allows me to reutilise the paper prints in the future), neatly putting the appropriate screw next to their picture and taping them down with scotch magic tape.

Even if I have to wait for spare parts, this allows me to neatly file the guide + screws in a copy safe and a binder (or in a cardboard filing box together with the rest of the parts) for later reassembly. Hardly any mistake possible...

Bart Van Dessel - Replica

I think the caption on the picture is wrong here for 24" iMacs - it says: "On the 24" iMac Intel Model A1225, the bottom center two screws are long (26mm), four on sides (two left, two right) are medium (18mm), and the remaining 6 (four top, two bottom corners) are short (14mm)." I think actually bottom centre two are long, then all the rest are medium apart from the two either side of the CD/DVD drive

HBloomfield - Replica

I print out the steps. Get a roll of scotch tape ready. Every screw, or set of screws I remove, I lay on some tape, and then tape them to the number on the directions. Then you have each screw labeled, with direction, and in order, or reassembly. Just working backwards in the directions.

Barry Coyle - Replica

  • La mascherina anteriore è ancora collegata all'iMac mediante il cavo del microfono.

  • Sollevare delicatamente la mascherina dal bordo superiore, lontano dal case posteriore.

  • Dopo aver rimosso il bordo superiore della mascherina anteriore dal case posteriore, ruotare la mascherina verso la staffa ed estrarla dal case posteriore.

  • Ruotare la mascherina anteriore lontano dal resto del dispositivo e adagiarla sul bordo superiore dell'iMac.

  • Per la reinstallazione della mascherina anteriore, iniziare dal bordo inferiore e verificare che sia allineata con il case posteriore prima di poggiare il bordo superiore sull'iMac.

Contrary to the pictures, to lift the front bezel off, start at top of the computer screen lifting up while apply a little bit of pressure to the foam in the upper corners of the screen. This will give you the leverage needed to get the bezel to lift up. Be careful to not pull to fast, as the camera cable is still attached.

armand - Replica

you'll need to add this step in all the other tutorials about iMac 20" EMC 2210, where it is missing ; they all jump from step 5 to step 6, which is a little annoying...

Armel h - Replica

Easy way to remove bezel, insert the longest screws a quarter turn into the two top most edge screw slots. Use the screws as anchors to press against as you pull the bezel toward you. Then a simple twist to remove the screws, and the rest of the bezel comes off easy.

armand - Replica

  • Scollegare il connettore del cavo del microfono, rimuovendo il nastro secondo necessità.

  • Affinché la mascherina anteriore sia posizionata correttamente, verificare di aver inserito il connettore nello spazio vuoto accanto alla scheda della fotocamera.

During reinstallation of the LCD panel, be sure that the iSight microphone cable does not become trapped behind the panel.

Ocean Yamaha - Replica

I actually didn't have to remove the cable. With the iMac laying on its back, just rotate the front bezel (bottom edge rotating around top edge) so that it's laying upside down, above the iMac. When reassembling, just rotate back into place.

Brian Tsai - Replica

  • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T6 da 5,3 mm dal connettore dell'LCD.

  • Tenere saldamente la linguetta sulla parte superiore del connettore e rimuoverla dalla porta.

    • Assicurarsi di tirare la linguetta e non il cavo del connettore.

remove the 8 screws (torx) that is holding the screen.

Gideon Lamprecht - Replica

  • Rimuovi le otto viti Torx T8 che fissano il pannello display al case posteriore.

  • L'iMac nella foto è un modello da 20", ma la posizione delle viti è approssimativamente la stessa.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Posizionare le mani su entrambi i lati della parte inferiore del pannello del display e sollevarlo affinché sia possibile raggiungere i connettori all'interno.

    • Non tentare di rimuovere completamente il pannello del display, poiché è ancora collegato al resto del dispositivo.

  • Tenendo il pannello del display con una mano, individuare e rimuovere il cavo del sensore termico del display dal connettore.

Make sure you reconnect the cable for the thermal display sensor during reassembly. If you don't, the fans will be running at max speed and you might think it is from the drive thermal sensor afterwards (which is an issue some users have and which can be fixed in software).

jnavarro - Replica

I had great success with just propping the top edge of the LCD display up with a box about 8" long. By doing so, I didn't have to remove the thermal sensor wire or the power cable.

Brian Tsai - Replica

The thermal sensor connection is more of a pain than it seems. It's a cramped area and it's not clear when it's properly plugged in during reassembly. It may *feel* like it's in, but then pops free at the slightest touch. I guarantee that if as soon as you start up, fans running max speed instantly is the indication this is the issue. If you're ok with that, then fine, but otherwise, you'll have to pull it apart again.

Sheldon Carpenter - Replica

Unplugging the thermal sensor connection is easier said than done, but using the spudger here is very

helpful

Peter Bull - Replica

  • Tenendo ancora sollevato in display, premere saldamente il connettore del cavo dell'alimentatore con due dita per estrarlo dal relativo connettore femmina.

  • Porre molta attenzione a non toccare la superficie esposta dell'alimentatore per evitare il rischio di scosse elettriche dai diversi condensatori di grande capacità presenti sull'altro lato della scheda.

When putting this back together it can be extremely difficult to plug this cable back in without removing a guard that is held in by 2x T8 Torx screws just next to it.

Russell Knight - Replica

I will suggest to remove the other end of the socket which is connected to the display panel. You can never imagine how difficult it will be to plug in on the main body, unless you know well about it.

Michael Shi - Replica

I didn't realize these comments were HERE? Poor web design if you can't see comments in an obvious way. Step 10 will cause you the most trouble in reassembling the computer and I knew it as soon as I popped that connector out off the board. Its really f*cking hard to get that connector hooked back up in the way it should be and I have small hands. I managed to get it at least partly pushed in after several tries. Over all it took over half an hour to get it back in there right and scared the !@#$ out of me because I didn't think I could get it done. Those stupid little plastic things won't help you here, the connector really needs to be pushed hard to get it back in. I ended up using a big beefy screw driver for slotted screws, about a ten inch long screwdriver. I used the blade on each end of the connector and was able to give it a good hard push on one end, then pushed on the other end, slowly rocking the connector back into full flush contact. Be real careful you aren't pushing on the ribbon at all.

sdpickups - Replica

Having done this procedure 6+ times now, I can tell you it's much easier if, instead of holding the panel up by the "bottom" as illustrated in the guide, instead raise it by the "left" side. It gives you (me) much more room to get fingers behind the connector.

May have been obvious to some, but this little adjustment didn't jump out at me until the 2nd or 3rd rebuild.

Jeff Dickson - Replica

There are four screws holding the power supply in place. Two different thread types so make note! Then lifting the power supply enough to easily plug the power cable back in is MUCH less of a problem. Then put the four screws back and proceed on.

racecornell - Replica

That´s exactly how I managed reassembling this connector very easily: Open the four screws, that hold down the platine and then lift it up a little bit.

info -

It isn't that hard if you start by hold the display panel up perpendicular to the case on the side of this challenging connector. From here you'll be able to connect the cable, then follow through with the two other connectors (two screws on the last one). Worked great for me.

cjrocksu2005 - Replica

By far this was the most difficult cable to reconnect. I enlisted a second person to hold the display after I unscrewed the power supply (Torx 10, 4 screws) and was able to give my fingers adequate room to securely reattach it. There's no need to do this when disconnecting the power supply, but it would take more nimble fingers than mine to reattach it without loosening the power supply.

Ron Lockhart - Replica

Do not remove this cable....! Too hard to get back there... I had to screw and lift up the whole platine to get the f**** cable back there....

EASIER IS:

# just remove the mic-cable (step6),the Thermal sensor (step9) the LCD-connector (step 10)...

# then let someone lift up (works also alone) the screen on the right side (there where Superdrive is)...

# remove Drive and Replace!!!!!

# Reconnect the easy cables....

anselm pavlik - Replica

agree! this cable is really tricky ...

Johann -

This step is TOTALLY UNNECESSARY on a 24" model!

Skip it; you have enough space to lift the panel.

Robert MacLeay - Replica

You don't need to do this step at all - you can leave the panel connected to the circuit board while you replace the hard drive. I did this while replacing the drive on my 24" iMac, just resting the panel on a box I had put next to the iMac on my desk, so that the panel stayed at the same level but was just moved and rotated sideways, with the cable still connected.

HBloomfield - Replica

I had great success with just propping the top edge of the LCD display up with a box about 8" long. By doing so, I didn't have to remove the thermal sensor wire or the power cable.

The power cable actually has a fair amount of play in it IF you peel back the thin black tape that affixes it to the LCD panel side to expose the power cable connector on the LCD side.

Brian Tsai - Replica

Note: SERIOUSLY:

- Disconnect the temp sensor from the iMac

- Lift up the screen from the RIGHT side (as if the iMac were standing up, facing you) to a vertical position

- Peel back the tape on the back of the LCD to expose the power supply connection

- Pull the connection from the LCD

- Attachment is the reverse

MUCH easier

Sheldon Carpenter - Replica

  • Sollevare e rimuovere il pannello del display dal dispositivo.

There is (what it looks like) a display ribbon cable attached that is hard to disconnect.

Sasmito Adibowo - Replica

  • Per rimuovere la staffa del disco rigido, premere la parte centrale contro il lato del disco, ruotando il bordo superiore sinistro verso di sé.

  • Dopo aver liberato il bordo sinistro, ruotare la staffa verso il bordo destro del disco rigido.

  • Sollevare la staffa del disco rigido dal case.

Prying the plastic bar that locks the HDD into place was probably the most difficult part of the operation, for me. It just didn't want to let go, and until you've actually removed one, it's not exactly clear how it's holding on. The left side basically has a thin wedge on the back that wedges in between the rubber grommet and the mounting bracket

modsolok - Replica

  • Se presente, rimuovere il pezzetto di nastro che copre i cavi del sensore temperatura del disco rigido e dell'unità ottica.

If there is some clear tape holding the excess play in the HDD thermal sensor wire, against the body back, peel it up to free the wire and give yourself as much free play as possible. When reassembling, tape back to the body.

Brian Tsai - Replica

  • Scollegare il cavo del sensore termico del disco rigido dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica.

  • Durante la rimozione del connettore, può essere utile premere con i pollici le linguette sui lati del connettore verso la parte superiore dell'iMac.

I found it was not necessary to do this step if you do step 20 first - i.e disconnect the temperature sensor cable from the hard drive, but not the logic board

HBloomfield - Replica

As HBloomfield said, you do NOT have to remove the sensor from the iMac body. Instead, remove the sensor from the HDD while it is still connected to the body.

If the sensor is covered with a 4mm black foam square, use your index fingernail to scrape off one of the corners where there is adhesive. If you pull on just the foam part, it will tear the foam.

Brian Tsai - Replica

  • Ruotare la parte superiore dell'unità verso di sé, quindi sollevare il disco rigido direttamente dai piedini inferiori.

  • Il disco rigido è ancora collegato mediante i cavi SATA.

  • Durante la reinstallazione del disco rigido, fare attenzione a non premere gli anelli di tenuta in gomma attraverso le aperture del case con i piedini inferiori del disco rigido, poiché per recuperarli potrebbe essere necessario rimuovere la scheda logica.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Inserire l'estremità piatta di un inseritore fra il cavo dati SATA e il bordo del disco rigido.

  • Ruotare l'inseritore per separare il cavo dati SATA dal disco rigido.

  • Scollegare il cavo dati SATA dal disco rigido.

  • Ripetere la procedura per il cavo di alimentazione SATA.

  • Sollevare il disco rigido dall'iMac, facendo attenzione a non incastrare il cavo del sensore termico.

I honestly didn't find the spudger to be necessary for most of this replacement. It is a nice little tool that makes one or two steps easier, but it is far from necessary. I imagine an old stylus you may have laying around would do just as good a job. I would definitely suggest putting the iMac on it's stand straight up to remove the hard drive bracket from it's post, as it sits very tightly in there. I found it popped out a LOT easier on it's stand than laying down, which was next to impossible. You do have to do some careful manuevering with your partner in order to accomplish this, but it's worth it. Take it slow.

Len - Replica

When replacing, the SATA data cable did not extend to the new drive.

Nathan Suri - Replica

THIS. A hundred times THIS. I wanted to put in an SSD, and was miffed to see that the SSD was to be placed in the middle of the 2.5" to 3.5" adapter. Unfortunately, that means that the SATA cable did not reach. I tried three different adapters, all the same. I even tried to BUILD an adapter myself from flat pieces of metal (I wouldn't recommend it). In the end, I got a SATA extension cable and simply taped the SSD into the case where the HDD used to be. We'll see if any problems crop up. Since it's very light though and doesn't produce much heat I don't think there should be a problem.

Wolf Dapp -

You will need a dock that puts the connectors in the same place if you want to use an SSD. I've had decent luck with the Icy Dock.

maccentric -

  • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T10 e i rispettivi anelli di tenuta in gomma dal disco rigido.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Rimuovere i due piedini Torx T10 dal lato del disco rigido, vicino ai connettori dati e di alimentazione.

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  • Rimuovere la porzione di nastro in schiuma che copre il sensore termico del disco rigido.

There was no tape on the drive you sent me...

andymcdonell - Replica

Quote from andymcdonell:

There was no tape on the drive you sent me...

Transfer the piece of foam tape from the old drive to your new drive. If it is no longer sticky, it is fine to use a strip of electrical or duct tape to hold the foam tape down against the drive.

Andrew Bookholt - Replica

  • Per rimuovere il sensore termico del disco rigido, utilizzare l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare l'aletta centrale della staffa del sensore termico, applicando una leggera tensione al cavo del sensore.

  • Se il sensore termico è incastrato nel disco rigido, andare al passaggio successivo.

I found these instructions to be a little unclear. What you are looking at after removing the foam, is a bracket that is basically holding down the thermal sensor at the end of those wires coming out(which you can't see because it's UNDER the bracket). I found the bracket to be fairly easy to just pull up and off. The spudger (or even a tiny flathead screwdriver) can easily accomplish this if it's glued on tight. Once the bracket comes off, the thermal sensor is freed, and in my case fell away from the bracket. Just try to keep those pieces together in the order they came off. Fortunately, as easy as the bracket came off, it was easily pushed back onto the new hard drive with no trouble at all. The foam was pretty sticky still as well, although I had to double tape one side of it to secure it over the bracket.

Len - Replica

  • Mediante l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, rimuovere la staffa del sensore termico del disco rigido dall'adesivo che la fissa all'unità stessa.

  • Qualora l'adesivo si sporcasse o non aderisse al nuovo disco rigido, posizionare un pezzo di nastro biadesivo sotto le due linguette semicircolari della staffa del sensore termico.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Con uno spudger rimuovi la piccola parte di schiuma EMI dal lato superiore del disco rigido.

  • Non dimenticare di trasferire il componente alla nuova unità.

  • Se stai installando un nuovo disco fisso, abbiamo una guida installazione OS X per farti riprendere subito il lavoro.

Make sure you don't forget this step! I forgot this step, got everything back together, then had to take it all apart again to affix this! Not fun. That said, the second time went MUCH faster, and I found myself appreciating this design a lot more. It is much less daunting now, and is much easier than upgrading the RAM in a Mac Mini.

Len - Replica

I followed this to replace hard disk with an SSD. These instructions and comments pretty much cover it. Only had to disconnect #7 cable and a little cable near the center of the system board; flipping/rotating bezel/screen avoided other disconnects. I used a permanent marker to label bezel holes "L" and "VL" (long and very long) to put those screws back properly.

My main problem: I expected a 2.5" hard disk but found a 3.5". Micro Center talked me into an IcyDock 2.5" --> 3.5" adapter, defective (ended up just taping the SSD down). Between that and not loading OS on the SSD before installing (basically: attach SSD via USB, boot while pressing command-R) meant I got to do this disassembly/assembly several times.

Worth it to buy a bottle of air to blow out dust, a 3.5" external enclosure (for the former internal hard disk), and maybe a CR2032? coin battery while you're at it. Group permissions on the hard disk's user files will be broken afterwards, easily fixed.

David Menges - Replica

i can not install osx on the new disk

don't assume the usb pen i have to install the osx can you help me?

djactomicoutblast - Replica

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il dispositivo, seguire queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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Exellent instructions....

jgtechnology - Replica

I just installed a new HD on my iMac 8,1. Intalled the OS from original disc, it was 10.5.2, I don't know how to upgrade the OS.

I did software update, but only got 10.5.8. ¿what can I do? I would like to install Yosemite at least...

Any help?

Dan N. - Replica

You need to get to 10.6.8 via physical media, then app store update from there. I have read that Apple will send you a dvd for no cost, but the official price is $19.

Milk Manson -

Compatibilité du capteur thermique avec un SSD ?

DUBOIS - Replica

I just replaced the original HDD with a SSD in my early 2009 iMac. Worked like a charm except now my fans run at about 3000 RPM and the computer is not even hot. I double checked the heat sensor and all is where it should be. Any ideas how to get the fans to quiet down?

Trey Darnell - Replica

When the fans spin like crazy, it’s because it can’t see a sensor that it’s expecting. Double check, not only the location but that they’re connected securely into the logic board. I’d spend extra attention on the temp sensor that sits on the hard drive (since that’s the one you moved over from the old hard drive). Double check the wires into the connector as well that they didn’t get damaged when unplugging it.

James Macintosh -

The HDD Temp sensor is just a NPN transistor - in the past with SSDs I have used a 2N4401 - connect the grey wire to the emitter and the black wire to the other two pins. Works a treat.

John - Replica

I like to upgrade the HDD in an early 2009 EMC 2267 to a SSD. It’s not my computer, my son’s. I was going to upgrade it next month when visiting him. I’m having a problem making a El Capitan bootable USB drive. I can’t get the Install application from the App Store. Will I be able to use my bootable High Sierra USB drive to run Disk Utility to format the SSD and then Restore from Time Machine?

Ren - 06/14/2018

Ren Worlock - Replica

Hey Ren! I may be a bit late, but there is a way to actually install High Sierra on your son’s computer. I have it installed on 4G RAM and 2.66GHZ processor and it works wonderfully. Here’s the link to the guide, I highly recommend you do this: http://dosdude1.com/highsierra/ . Kind of a poorly formatted article but it’s comprehensive and helpful. Best of luck!

Jacob Weeces -

I made it! Excellent guide! I followed all steps except the one with the powercord, since I read in the comments that it wasn’t really necessary. And it wasn’t, so it’s good to read comments too! :)

Thank you so much for this guide!

Peder Sjöberg - Replica

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