Introduzione

Utilizzare questa guida per sostituire un pannello del display danneggiato nell'iMac.

  1. Poggiare l'iMac sul lato anteriore su un tavolo, con il bordo inferiore rivolto verso l'utente.
    • Poggiare l'iMac sul lato anteriore su un tavolo, con il bordo inferiore rivolto verso l'utente.

    • Allentare la vite con testa a croce al centro dello sportello di accesso.

    • La vite resta all'interno dello sportello di accesso.

    • Rimuovere lo sportello di accesso dall'iMac.

    The grid won't fall off by itself. You'll have to help it. Use the smallest screwdriver you have; the Torx 6 worked fine for me. It should enter in one of the many holes composing the grid. Use it as a lever to ploy the grid a little bit. You may catch it with your fingers and that's it.

    Be carefull not to damage the hole by a too strong leverage.

    Laurent - Replica

    much more safer to use duct tape, instead of torx 6. (glue it along the length of the grid and pull). it will loose instantly and smooth;)

    Hofmann78rus - Replica

    Anyone know a guide to replace the plastic piece this screw connects to? I accidentally forgot this step - went to remove the front bezel and bent the plastic piece the access door connects to.

    Jason Augustin - Replica

  2. Il pannello di vetro è fissato nella mascherina anteriore con quattordici magneti posizionati lungo il perimetro.
    • Il pannello di vetro è fissato nella mascherina anteriore con quattordici magneti posizionati lungo il perimetro.

    • Far aderire due ventose agli angoli opposti del pannello di vetro.

    • Per far aderire le nostre ventose, per prima cosa posizionarle con la maniglia semovente parallela alla superficie del pannello di vetro. Tenendo delicatamente la ventosa contro il vetro, sollevare la maniglia semovente finché non è parallela all'altra maniglia.

    • Se la ventosa non aderisce, provare a ripulire il pannello di vetro e la ventosa con un solvente delicato.

    A good alternative to the two heavy duty suction cups is a regular household plunger.

    Russell Knight - Replica

    Also, 2" wide packing tape. Maybe a 6 or 8" piece, folded in the middle to give you say, a 1-2" "handle". Make a pair of these. They look like a capital T but with a short vertical part (the handle), and a wide top I the sticky wings). Get the good 3M tape, it's strong, and it peels off clean without leaving any glue from the screen.

    Barry Coyle - Replica

    for me one household plunger did the trick!

    Ronald Huygen - Replica

    • Estrai delicatamente il pannello di vetro dall'iMac.

    • Il pannello di vetro presenta diversi piedini di posizionamento lungo il perimetro. Per evitare di staccare i piedini dal pannello di vetro, fare attenzione a rimuoverlo solo tirando verso l'alto.

    • Pulire con attenzione la parte interna del pannello di vetro e l'LCD, poiché la polvere e le impronte digitali saranno sgradevolmente visibili durante l'accensione del display.

    • Quando sostituisci il vetro, assicurati che non ci sia nulla tra il vetro stesso e il suo supporto. Eventuali cavi volanti potrebbero danneggiarsi o rompere il pannello.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Rimuovere le 12 viti seguenti, che fissano la mascherina anteriore al case posteriore:

      • Otto viti Torx T8 da 13 mm.

      • Quattro viti Torx T8 da 25 mm.

    • Nell'iMac Intel modello A1225 da 24", le due viti nella parte inferiore centrale sono lunghe (26 mm), le quattro ai lati (due a sinistra, due a destra) sono medie (18 mm) e le restanti 6 (quattro nella parte superiore e due negli angoli inferiori) sono corte (14 mm).

    I would strongly suggest taping the screws down on a piece of paper towel or cloth in the same order you take them out, as there are different lengths in no particular order and they don't all fit into just any hole. Unless you keep track of which hole each screw belongs, there is no other way of knowing. I stress taping because I didn't tape mine down and after bumping the table I was working on they scattered, leaving me to guess.

    Len - Replica

    Even better, use an ice cube tray to keep the screws from each step together.

    maccentric - Replica

    how about using the magnets near the screws to keep their positions?

    Andy - Replica

    I use an 18 count egg carton (or two) and label each egg slot with a Sharpie. Works great.

    airira - Replica

    As a rule with iFixit repairs, for years I've been printing the guides, applying scotch magic tape near each picture (which allows me to reutilise the paper prints in the future), neatly putting the appropriate screw next to their picture and taping them down with scotch magic tape.

    Even if I have to wait for spare parts, this allows me to neatly file the guide + screws in a copy safe and a binder (or in a cardboard filing box together with the rest of the parts) for later reassembly. Hardly any mistake possible...

    Bart Van Dessel - Replica

    I think the caption on the picture is wrong here for 24" iMacs - it says: "On the 24" iMac Intel Model A1225, the bottom center two screws are long (26mm), four on sides (two left, two right) are medium (18mm), and the remaining 6 (four top, two bottom corners) are short (14mm)." I think actually bottom centre two are long, then all the rest are medium apart from the two either side of the CD/DVD drive

    HBloomfield - Replica

    I print out the steps. Get a roll of scotch tape ready. Every screw, or set of screws I remove, I lay on some tape, and then tape them to the number on the directions. Then you have each screw labeled, with direction, and in order, or reassembly. Just working backwards in the directions.

    Barry Coyle - Replica

    • La mascherina anteriore è ancora collegata all'iMac mediante il cavo del microfono.

    • Sollevare delicatamente la mascherina dal bordo superiore, lontano dal case posteriore.

    • Dopo aver rimosso il bordo superiore della mascherina anteriore dal case posteriore, ruotare la mascherina verso la staffa ed estrarla dal case posteriore.

    • Ruotare la mascherina anteriore lontano dal resto del dispositivo e adagiarla sul bordo superiore dell'iMac.

    • Per la reinstallazione della mascherina anteriore, iniziare dal bordo inferiore e verificare che sia allineata con il case posteriore prima di poggiare il bordo superiore sull'iMac.

    Contrary to the pictures, to lift the front bezel off, start at top of the computer screen lifting up while apply a little bit of pressure to the foam in the upper corners of the screen. This will give you the leverage needed to get the bezel to lift up. Be careful to not pull to fast, as the camera cable is still attached.

    armand - Replica

    you'll need to add this step in all the other tutorials about iMac 20" EMC 2210, where it is missing ; they all jump from step 5 to step 6, which is a little annoying...

    Armel h - Replica

    Easy way to remove bezel, insert the longest screws a quarter turn into the two top most edge screw slots. Use the screws as anchors to press against as you pull the bezel toward you. Then a simple twist to remove the screws, and the rest of the bezel comes off easy.

    armand - Replica

    • Scollegare il connettore del cavo del microfono, rimuovendo il nastro secondo necessità.

    • Affinché la mascherina anteriore sia posizionata correttamente, verificare di aver inserito il connettore nello spazio vuoto accanto alla scheda della fotocamera.

    During reinstallation of the LCD panel, be sure that the iSight microphone cable does not become trapped behind the panel.

    Ocean Yamaha - Replica

    I actually didn't have to remove the cable. With the iMac laying on its back, just rotate the front bezel (bottom edge rotating around top edge) so that it's laying upside down, above the iMac. When reassembling, just rotate back into place.

    Brian Tsai - Replica

    • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T6 da 5,3 mm dal connettore dell'LCD.

    • Tenere saldamente la linguetta sulla parte superiore del connettore e rimuoverla dalla porta.

      • Assicurarsi di tirare la linguetta e non il cavo del connettore.

    remove the 8 screws (torx) that is holding the screen.

    Gideon Lamprecht - Replica

    • Rimuovi le otto viti Torx T8 che fissano il pannello display al case posteriore.

    • L'iMac nella foto è un modello da 20", ma la posizione delle viti è approssimativamente la stessa.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Posizionare le mani su entrambi i lati della parte inferiore del pannello del display e sollevarlo affinché sia possibile raggiungere i connettori all'interno.

      • Non tentare di rimuovere completamente il pannello del display, poiché è ancora collegato al resto del dispositivo.

    • Tenendo il pannello del display con una mano, individuare e rimuovere il cavo del sensore termico del display dal connettore.

    Make sure you reconnect the cable for the thermal display sensor during reassembly. If you don't, the fans will be running at max speed and you might think it is from the drive thermal sensor afterwards (which is an issue some users have and which can be fixed in software).

    jnavarro - Replica

    I had great success with just propping the top edge of the LCD display up with a box about 8" long. By doing so, I didn't have to remove the thermal sensor wire or the power cable.

    Brian Tsai - Replica

    The thermal sensor connection is more of a pain than it seems. It's a cramped area and it's not clear when it's properly plugged in during reassembly. It may *feel* like it's in, but then pops free at the slightest touch. I guarantee that if as soon as you start up, fans running max speed instantly is the indication this is the issue. If you're ok with that, then fine, but otherwise, you'll have to pull it apart again.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Replica

    Unplugging the thermal sensor connection is easier said than done, but using the spudger here is very

    helpful

    Peter Bull - Replica

    • Tenendo ancora sollevato in display, premere saldamente il connettore del cavo dell'alimentatore con due dita per estrarlo dal relativo connettore femmina.

    • Porre molta attenzione a non toccare la superficie esposta dell'alimentatore per evitare il rischio di scosse elettriche dai diversi condensatori di grande capacità presenti sull'altro lato della scheda.

    When putting this back together it can be extremely difficult to plug this cable back in without removing a guard that is held in by 2x T8 Torx screws just next to it.

    Russell Knight - Replica

    I will suggest to remove the other end of the socket which is connected to the display panel. You can never imagine how difficult it will be to plug in on the main body, unless you know well about it.

    Michael Shi - Replica

    I didn't realize these comments were HERE? Poor web design if you can't see comments in an obvious way. Step 10 will cause you the most trouble in reassembling the computer and I knew it as soon as I popped that connector out off the board. Its really f*cking hard to get that connector hooked back up in the way it should be and I have small hands. I managed to get it at least partly pushed in after several tries. Over all it took over half an hour to get it back in there right and scared the !@#$ out of me because I didn't think I could get it done. Those stupid little plastic things won't help you here, the connector really needs to be pushed hard to get it back in. I ended up using a big beefy screw driver for slotted screws, about a ten inch long screwdriver. I used the blade on each end of the connector and was able to give it a good hard push on one end, then pushed on the other end, slowly rocking the connector back into full flush contact. Be real careful you aren't pushing on the ribbon at all.

    sdpickups - Replica

    Having done this procedure 6+ times now, I can tell you it's much easier if, instead of holding the panel up by the "bottom" as illustrated in the guide, instead raise it by the "left" side. It gives you (me) much more room to get fingers behind the connector.

    May have been obvious to some, but this little adjustment didn't jump out at me until the 2nd or 3rd rebuild.

    Jeff Dickson - Replica

    There are four screws holding the power supply in place. Two different thread types so make note! Then lifting the power supply enough to easily plug the power cable back in is MUCH less of a problem. Then put the four screws back and proceed on.

    racecornell - Replica

    That´s exactly how I managed reassembling this connector very easily: Open the four screws, that hold down the platine and then lift it up a little bit.

    info -

    It isn't that hard if you start by hold the display panel up perpendicular to the case on the side of this challenging connector. From here you'll be able to connect the cable, then follow through with the two other connectors (two screws on the last one). Worked great for me.

    cjrocksu2005 - Replica

    By far this was the most difficult cable to reconnect. I enlisted a second person to hold the display after I unscrewed the power supply (Torx 10, 4 screws) and was able to give my fingers adequate room to securely reattach it. There's no need to do this when disconnecting the power supply, but it would take more nimble fingers than mine to reattach it without loosening the power supply.

    Ron Lockhart - Replica

    Do not remove this cable....! Too hard to get back there... I had to screw and lift up the whole platine to get the f**** cable back there....

    EASIER IS:

    # just remove the mic-cable (step6),the Thermal sensor (step9) the LCD-connector (step 10)...

    # then let someone lift up (works also alone) the screen on the right side (there where Superdrive is)...

    # remove Drive and Replace!!!!!

    # Reconnect the easy cables....

    anselm pavlik - Replica

    agree! this cable is really tricky ...

    Johann -

    This step is TOTALLY UNNECESSARY on a 24" model!

    Skip it; you have enough space to lift the panel.

    Robert MacLeay - Replica

    You don't need to do this step at all - you can leave the panel connected to the circuit board while you replace the hard drive. I did this while replacing the drive on my 24" iMac, just resting the panel on a box I had put next to the iMac on my desk, so that the panel stayed at the same level but was just moved and rotated sideways, with the cable still connected.

    HBloomfield - Replica

    I had great success with just propping the top edge of the LCD display up with a box about 8" long. By doing so, I didn't have to remove the thermal sensor wire or the power cable.

    The power cable actually has a fair amount of play in it IF you peel back the thin black tape that affixes it to the LCD panel side to expose the power cable connector on the LCD side.

    Brian Tsai - Replica

    Note: SERIOUSLY:

    - Disconnect the temp sensor from the iMac

    - Lift up the screen from the RIGHT side (as if the iMac were standing up, facing you) to a vertical position

    - Peel back the tape on the back of the LCD to expose the power supply connection

    - Pull the connection from the LCD

    - Attachment is the reverse

    MUCH easier

    Sheldon Carpenter - Replica

    • Sollevare e rimuovere il pannello del display dal dispositivo.

    There is (what it looks like) a display ribbon cable attached that is hard to disconnect.

    Sasmito Adibowo - Replica

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Altre 16 persone hanno completato questa guida.

Un ringraziamento speciale a questi traduttori:

100%

Questi traduttori ci stanno aiutando ad aggiustare il mondo! Vuoi partecipare?
Inizia a tradurre ›

Brittany McCrigler

Membro da: 05/03/2012

79.883 Reputazione

133 Guide realizzate

Team

iFixit Membro di iFixit

Community

114 Membri

7.029 Guide realizzate

how did you guys go about replacing the black tape that covers the cable on the back of the lcd ?

Francesca Ratto - Replica

Aggiungi Commento

Visualizza Statistiche:

Ultime 24 Ore: 7

Ultimi 7 Giorni: 43

Ultimi 30 Giorni: 196

Tutti i Tempi: 28,014