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Introduzione

Use this guide to replace a faulty logic board.

When reassembling your iMac, follow our thermal paste application guide to reapply the thermal paste.

    • With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs are fast and easy with an iMac service wedge, but can be completed without one.

    • Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.

    • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

    The wedge is an extremely tight fit for this model. I was worried that the amount of force needed to use it as shown might damage the stand, so I used it with the long side down instead. It worked fine that way and didn’t need anywhere near as much force to insert.

    roberttrevellyan - Replica

    Here’s a good YouTube vid on upgrading the RAM: Can a Normal Person Upgrade the RAM in the 2017 21.5" iMac?

    Dan - Replica

    Here are a couple tips from me:

    1) Expose the adhesive to extreme temperatures. I did this by transporting my iMac in my car, screen-down on a piece of cardboard on a cold February morning (in Chicago). When I went to pick up the iMac, the screen practically fell off the chassis. I would have been distraught by this if I hadn’t already planned this replacement. So it was a happy accident.

    2) Remember to expell the residual power from the power supply by pushing the power button while the iMac is unplugged. This does NOT guarantee it’s safe to touch, but when I accidentally brushed the solder and exposed capacitors, I didn’t get shocked.

    jerrid_foiles - Replica

    Instead of using the wedge, I placed the iMac faced up with the top side (web cam) facing me while I ran the pizza roller around. It worked out great!

    Sam Fung - Replica

  1. Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear enclosure. The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. Otherwise, you risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.
    • Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear enclosure.

    • The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. Otherwise, you risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.

    Don’t get too worried about starting exactly where the picture says. The glue is stronger in some parts so just start wherever is easier and then work slowly and patiently around in the direction shown.

    Richard Cook - Replica

  2. Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center. Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle. Run the tool up along the left side of the display.
    • Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

    • Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.

    • Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

    Erreur de traduction: "de bas en haut" et non de" haut en bas" sur le côté gauche de l'écran

    Moreau - Replica

  3. Continue running the tool up around the top left corner. Continue running the tool up around the top left corner. Continue running the tool up around the top left corner.
    • Continue running the tool up around the top left corner.

  4. Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display. Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.
    • Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

  5. Continue along the top of the display. You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.
    • Continue along the top of the display.

    • You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

    In this step can I cut along the display without make any damage to the front camera?

    arisnordico - Replica

    Hi! Actually - there is no need to cut the tape around the camera area - there is no tape to cut at all! And so, the way go is easy - just pass 10 mm to the left and to the right from camera and start cutting!

    P.S. Just did the whole procedure to replace a RAM and to add SSD on PSIe an hour ago! Seems to be different reading the instructions... you know - 2/10 and so on. But it's really not that hard, trust me. I'll give it 5/10.

    P.P.S. By the way there is one trick to pass the difficult steps. Any action which requires pulling smth (motherboard, speaker, power supply unit) from the narrow crack (or should i say - slit?) at the bottom of your Imac is really not so easy.

    And the trick is to first remove a thin metal stripe with some kind of insulation on it which held by 5 small (very small!!) screws at the bottom of your Imac. After you done it - it's easy to pull everything! Pay attention to the fact that one of this 5 screws at the center are more shortly than others.

    dv1977 - Replica

    After doing the replacement the adhesive still sticks quite good enough to hold the screen in place. Maybe this isn't rock-solid, but enough for me.

    Mirko - Replica

    I did all steps like this manuell but now the Display wont work only some colered strips are to see! Whats happend??

    Can anybody help me ? Maybe the connector cable is broken?

    djfanta - Replica

    Check both connectors, probably one of them not seated well

    pzhivulin -

    You can add a SATA SSD if you already have a PCIe SSD Factory?

    kaserlik - Replica

    If you're changing cracked EMC 2638 display to new assembly, there's two more steps:

    Step 24: Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

    Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the display assembly.

    Step 25: Use the tip of a spudger to unplug bracket of the thermal sensor small cable near display data cable.

    Carefully remove scotch tape covering thermal sensor. Using iSesamo or flat tip of the spudger carefully peel the thermal sensor away.

    pzhivulin - Replica

    omg - forgot to switch the termal sensor from the old display...

    now fan runs like crazy...

    Andrei Balotescu -

  6. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.
    • Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

  7. Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display. Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.
    • Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

  8. Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display. At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.
    • Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

    • At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

    Yes, do it many times to loosen the adhesive.

    Noah Ralston - Replica

  9. While the opening tool cut most of the adhesive, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive. Set the iMac face-up on a table. Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, wedge a plastic card between the display and frame.
    • While the opening tool cut most of the adhesive, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.

    • Set the iMac face-up on a table.

    • Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, wedge a plastic card between the display and frame.

    • Be careful not to insert the plastic card more than 3/8", or you may damage internal components.

    this step is extremely important NOT to stick in the cards too far….. doing so, you risk a 600 euro replacement as I experienced………

    Edgar Broekema - Replica

  10. Gently twist the plastic card sideways to create a gap between the display and frame. Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".
    • Gently twist the plastic card sideways to create a gap between the display and frame.

    • Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".

    This part must be done very carefully or you can damage the flat cable from display, despite it was under a iron cover.

    Cassio Machado - Replica

  11. Slide the card toward the center of the display to cut any of the remaining adhesive along the top right corner of the iMac. Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it. Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it.
    • Slide the card toward the center of the display to cut any of the remaining adhesive along the top right corner of the iMac.

    • Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it.

  12. Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again, and leave it there to prevent the adhesive from resticking. Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again, and leave it there to prevent the adhesive from resticking.
    • Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again, and leave it there to prevent the adhesive from resticking.

  13. Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac. Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac. Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac.
    • Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac.

  14. Gently twist the card upward, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame. As with the other side, twist slowly to allow the adhesive time to separate, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.
    • Gently twist the card upward, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

    • As with the other side, twist slowly to allow the adhesive time to separate, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.

  15. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.
    • Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

  16. Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner. Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner.
    • Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner.

  17. With both plastic cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards sideways to increase the gap between display and case. If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the remaining adhesive. Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.
    • With both plastic cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards sideways to increase the gap between display and case.

    • If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the remaining adhesive.

    • Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

    • Only lift the display a few inches—the display data and power cables are still connected to the logic board.

  18. While holding the display up with one hand, use the other hand to unplug the display power cable. Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connector, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").
    • While holding the display up with one hand, use the other hand to unplug the display power cable.

    • Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connector, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

    Pulling the display power cable by the wires makes me nervous..

    bstaud - Replica

    I had a small flight light ready so I could see. Follow the directions - don’t blindly pull.

    Noah Ralston - Replica

    Head lamp gives you the best hands free view!

    lamajr - Replica

    bstaud - The display power cable has two squeezable levers on each end of the cable’s width.

    Squeeze the left lever with your thumb while you simultaneously squeeze the right lever with your

    index finger, and gently pull the cable straight back and out, and the cable comes out very easily.

    Ted Horodynsky - Replica

  19. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable. Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

    • Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket.

    Sure could use a magnified picture of this connector and socket, especially the first time you go in. And it is the most critical step of the whole operation — bung it up and we’re toast.

    bstaud - Replica

    Hi bstaud! If you hover over the image you can click on the magnifying glass and get a large image of any guide photo. Hope that helps!

    Sam Goldheart -

    To clarify, the connector pulls out in the plane of the logic card, not perpendicular.

    David Thompson - Replica

  20. Lift the display up to a near-vertical position. At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.
    • Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

    • At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

    Where can I find a replacement display for my iMac?

    Braydon Boyce - Replica

    iFixit has listings for replacements. Go to the Parts section

    jerrid_foiles -

  21. If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip. If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.
    • If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.

    Cutting through this extra adhesive on the bottom took a bit more effort than the step and picture implied (to me). Unlike the other edges, here don't be afraid to really push the card in there to break the seal, there's nothing behind that adhesive that is breakable.

    phil - Replica

    cutting through the adhesive is unnecessary if it's not been opened before (outside of an apple store) there will be a tab at the end of each VHB strip that you can use to simply pull the vhb strips off.

    Rory McKenna - Replica

    To save a few steps and a bit of time, if you have a helper, they can hold the display at a 90° angle while you unscrew the brackets and remove/replace the hard drive rather than remove the display entirely. Also reduces the likelihood of damaging the display as you remove and handle it.

    marty - Replica

  22. Batterie per PC portatili

    Una soluzione semplice per un grande aumento di potenza.

    Acquista ora

    Batterie per PC portatili

    Una soluzione semplice per un grande aumento di potenza.

    Acquista ora
  23. Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive. Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass.
    • Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac.

    • It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.

    • Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass.

  24. Remove the following five Phillips  screws holding the lower support bracket in place: Four 3.2 mm screws
    • Remove the following five Phillips screws holding the lower support bracket in place:

    • Four 3.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • On at least some EMC 2544 machines, all five screws are the same size.

    • You may need to peel up the display adhesive lining the bottom edge of the iMac enclosure to access the screws.

  25. Remove the lower support bracket from the iMac enclosure.
    • Remove the lower support bracket from the iMac enclosure.

    Of all the parts of this entire procedure, replacing this one piece is the hardest part! The screws are tiny and they just don’t seem to want to grab the support piece. Also it seems to perform no function which is also annoying.

    John M - Replica

    I left mine out. LOL

    jerrid_foiles -

    Line up the screw holes and press on the bracket from the back to help the screws grab. If your fingers are too big, press with the flat side of your spudger. As long as there’s no gap between the bracket and the iMac’s frame, the screws should grab easily.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  26. Use a spudger to loosen the right speaker cable's connector from its socket on the logic board. It is useful to push downward on both short sides of the connector to walk it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, as they can be easily broken off.
    • Use a spudger to loosen the right speaker cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to push downward on both short sides of the connector to walk it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, as they can be easily broken off.

    • Pull the connector downwards to remove it from its socket.

  27. Remove the two 10.0 mm T10 screws securing the right speaker to the rear enclosure.
    • Remove the two 10.0 mm T10 screws securing the right speaker to the rear enclosure.

  28. Insert the tip of a spudger between the right speaker and the antenna cable that is routed into the speaker's right side. Run the spudger down along the right side of the speaker to pry the antenna cable from its channel in the right speaker.
    • Insert the tip of a spudger between the right speaker and the antenna cable that is routed into the speaker's right side.

    • Run the spudger down along the right side of the speaker to pry the antenna cable from its channel in the right speaker.

  29. Lift the right speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac. The speaker is tightly wedged into the rear enclosure, therefore it may be helpful to tilt the speaker side to side while pulling upward. The speaker is tightly wedged into the rear enclosure, therefore it may be helpful to tilt the speaker side to side while pulling upward.
    • Lift the right speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

    • The speaker is tightly wedged into the rear enclosure, therefore it may be helpful to tilt the speaker side to side while pulling upward.

  30. Remove the following screws securing the hard drive bracket to the rear enclosure:
    • Remove the following screws securing the hard drive bracket to the rear enclosure:

    • Two 21 mm T10 Torx screws from the left-hand hard drive bracket.

    • One 9 mm T10 Torx screw.

    • One 27 mm T10 Torx screw.

    Is there a special drive for this? Apple specs only one or two drives? I am planning a seagate SDHD. It has SMART, but may not be the right version. ANy comments/ recommendations?

    Carl Schultz - Replica

  31. Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac. Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac.
    • Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac.

  32. The next few steps bring your hands close to the exposed face of the power supply. Do not touch the face of the power supply or any of the exposed solder. Touching it risks a high voltage shock from the many large capacitors attached to the board. Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power button cable connector and gently walk it out of its socket. Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power button cable connector and gently walk it out of its socket.
    • The next few steps bring your hands close to the exposed face of the power supply. Do not touch the face of the power supply or any of the exposed solder. Touching it risks a high voltage shock from the many large capacitors attached to the board.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power button cable connector and gently walk it out of its socket.

    I would advise that before removing the PSU unit and all other components from the bottom of the case that you remove the 5 screws at the bottom of the display which hold an insulation strip in place.

    The guide shows this piece removed, but does not tell you how to remove it.

    There will be 5, small J1000 screws. The middle one, which goes over Apple Logo is the shorter one of the 5, all others are the same length. Once this piece is gone removing the components is much easier, and chance of damage lessened.

    Jeffrey Gelinas - Replica

    Added to the guide. Thanks for the tip!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    No need to remove power board and logic board and all other components, just remove the fan and it is quite "easily" accessable to change the RAM. Just need to use the tools to remove the old RAM and carefully install the new RAM.

    I just did it without removing the logic or power board

    Oleksandr Trokhymchuk - Replica

    could you elaborate a little more, I would love to skip the rest of these steps. How did you accomplish this?

    ej P -

    ej P: remove the fan assembly first. Then remove the connector that runs from the iSight camera to the logic board on the left.

    the RAM is located right near that cable. It’s tricky to remove but you can pop open the connectors with a black nylon stick and the RAM chip will pop up at 45 degrees. Make a mental note on which way you will need to install the new ram as it’s tough to see. For the Crucial memory I got it was label side facing away you (facing towards rear metal enclosure).

    the second chip has a plastic adhesive piece on it that you should probably attach to the new ram.

    remove both chips then install the new ram in sequence from the board out.

    Wizdom On Wheels - Replica

  33. Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power supply control cable connector and gently walk it out of its socket. Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power supply control cable connector and gently walk it out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power supply control cable connector and gently walk it out of its socket.

  34. Remove the two 7.2 mm T10 Torx screws securing the power supply to the rear enclosure.
    • Remove the two 7.2 mm T10 Torx screws securing the power supply to the rear enclosure.

    • In newer model iMacs these are 7.2 mm T8 Torx screws.

  35. When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges. Tilt the power supply forward.
    • When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

    • Tilt the power supply forward.

    When replacing the PSU (on the re-build) take care not to trap the power button cable behind it - I did...

    Dave Hallett - Replica

  36. Pull the power supply slightly up and out from the rear enclosure. Rotate the power supply counterclockwise, lifting the right side up about an inch higher than the left. Rotate the power supply counterclockwise, lifting the right side up about an inch higher than the left.
    • Pull the power supply slightly up and out from the rear enclosure.

    • Rotate the power supply counterclockwise, lifting the right side up about an inch higher than the left.

  37. Slide the power supply to the right to clear the screw posts on the rear enclosure. Slide the power supply to the right to clear the screw posts on the rear enclosure.
    • Slide the power supply to the right to clear the screw posts on the rear enclosure.

  38. Rock the power supply forward and remove it from its recess in the rear enclosure. Do not try to completely remove the power supply from the iMac yet—it is still connected to the logic board. Do not try to completely remove the power supply from the iMac yet—it is still connected to the logic board.
    • Rock the power supply forward and remove it from its recess in the rear enclosure.

    • Do not try to completely remove the power supply from the iMac yet—it is still connected to the logic board.

  39. Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges. Flip the power supply over to access the DC power cable connection behind the logic board.
    • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

    • Flip the power supply over to access the DC power cable connection behind the logic board.

    • Squeeze the tab on the back side of the DC power cable connector and pull it straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.

    when pulled the cable, even slightly, the actual female piece that connects to the logic board came off. am i screwed?

    Racheal Major - Replica

    Repairing sockets that come off the logic board is possible, but very specialised work. Unless you have a magnifying lamp and the necessary desoldering and soldering skills, it will be difficult but not impossible.

    Charlie Nancarrow - Replica

  40. You may find it helpful to set the iMac down on its back for the next couple of steps. Use the flat end of a spudger to press the clip on the side of the AC inlet cable connector inward. While pressing on the release clip with the spudger, grasp the AC inlet cable, and pull the connector straight out of its socket.
    • You may find it helpful to set the iMac down on its back for the next couple of steps.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to press the clip on the side of the AC inlet cable connector inward.

    • While pressing on the release clip with the spudger, grasp the AC inlet cable, and pull the connector straight out of its socket.

    I didn't disconnect the input cable to the power supply. Because I had the machine lying on its back throughout, I placed it on to the metal bit at the bottom of the machine instead (with a cloth to stop the metal getting scratched). The AC inlet cable was pretty tricky to get un-locked, and the PSU sat on the case fine. It didn't hinder anything else throughout the guide.

    Dave Hallett - Replica

    I thought from Dave’s comment that I could leave the power supply completely in place, but I was mistaken. In order to remove the hard drive assembly after you remove the center screw in it, you’ll need to at least unscrew it and the HD assembly will slip out. Like Dave said, you don’t need to unplug the AC or PSU, which I left hanging.

    Getting power supply to the logic board unplugged is also tricky without unscrewing the two bottom screws. They didn’t make this part easy.

    delacrj2 - Replica

    Kleiner Rechtschreibfehler - statt „denac“ muss es wohl „den iMac“ heißen

    Gonzalo - Replica

    Au ja. Du kannst so was selbst ausbessern. Einfach auf “Übersetzen" gehen und loslegen.

    VauWeh - Replica

  41. Remove the power supply from the iMac.
    • Remove the power supply from the iMac.

    erreur: retirer "la carte d'alimentation" et non" le disque dur" !!!!!

    Moreau - Replica

  42. Gently pull the fan cable connector straight away from its socket on the logic board. Gently pull the fan cable connector straight away from its socket on the logic board.
    • Gently pull the fan cable connector straight away from its socket on the logic board.

  43. Remove the three 12.3 mm T10 shoulder screws securing the fan to the rear enclosure.
    • Remove the three 12.3 mm T10 shoulder screws securing the fan to the rear enclosure.

  44. Remove the fan from the iMac. Remove the fan from the iMac.
    • Remove the fan from the iMac.

  45. Lift the hard drive from the edge nearest the logic board and pull it slightly out of its recess. The hard drive is attached by a single SATA power/data cable—do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac yet. The hard drive is attached by a single SATA power/data cable—do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac yet.
    • Lift the hard drive from the edge nearest the logic board and pull it slightly out of its recess.

    • The hard drive is attached by a single SATA power/data cable—do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac yet.

  46. Use a spudger to disconnect the single SATA power and data combo cable by gently prying its large plastic connector away from the hard drive. Use a spudger to disconnect the single SATA power and data combo cable by gently prying its large plastic connector away from the hard drive.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the single SATA power and data combo cable by gently prying its large plastic connector away from the hard drive.

    When reconnecting the SATA cable, there is nothing to make the connector hold still, and it is hard to reach, so it took several tries. I ended up taking off the rubber baby buggy bumpers to get more room, and then jamming them back on after getting the SATA connector snugged up.

    bstaud - Replica

    If by rubber baby buggy bumper, you mean left speaker, then yes, I agree. Reinstall the hard drive before the left speaker.

    jerrid_foiles -

    Kudo to @jerrid_foiles! I was going crazy trying to attach the SATA cable until I took the two screws out of the left speaker and slid the top end of it aside by about 3/4 inch. Make the whole process SO MUCH easier!!

    jiclark - Replica

    We solved this by removing the hard drive tray screw, then inserting the cable into the SATA hard drive. Then hold the hard drive a bit out of the way to insert the 7.3mm hard drive tray screw.

    Marjie - Replica

  47. Remove the hard drive assembly from the iMac.
    • Remove the hard drive assembly from the iMac.

    When reassembling, I found it easier to loosen the HD tray screw from Step 48 and pull the tray outwards from the left side in order to plug the SATA cable in more easily.

    Cool_Breeze - Replica

    Thanks! I, too, had a hard time reconnecting the SATA cable.

    boboswell -

    And DON’T do what I did, which is to remove the left speaker - which can easily lead to breaking the cable between the power on button and the power supply. The cable is routed through a hidden slot at the very bottom of the left speaker

    bsmith1 - Replica

    I did loosen the speaker so I could get a tool behind the SATA cable to push it on to the SSD drive. Otherwise hard to align cable.

    Noah Ralston - Replica

    I found the easiest way to connect the SATA cable was to not screw the plastic hard drive tray down until you plug the drive in. That way you can easily push the connector in and due to the cable you’ve got some wiggle room. You can position the tray then just lift one end of the drive up and secure the screw. Then just push the drive down.

    Chris Caldwell - Replica

    This was the step that I had the most trouble with. I’m used to replacing a hard drive in a MacBook Pro, where the “plug” that you plug the drive into is a rigid thing that you can firmly press the hard drive into.

    With the iMac, the plug is situated on the end of a non-rigid cord, so the plug moves back when you try to snap a drive into it. Also, those two rubber gasket things that you adhere to the side of the drive really make it difficult to maneuver the now-overly-chubby drive towards the plug.

    After must frustration/concern, what I ended up doing was temporarily removing the rubber gasket things, using the “spudger” as kind of a lever behind the “plug on a cord” so that it didn’t move as much, and then pushed the gasket-less SSD into the plug.

    Once I got it connected, I put the rubber gaskets back on the sides of the SSD and kind of coaxed it down into place, using the pointy end of the spudger to get the chubby corner pieces to “sit” correctly in the rigid plastic tray that the SSD kind of rests in.

    Jack OnFlickr - Replica

    From another comment elsewhere on this repair, I *highly* recommend removing the two screws holding the left speaker in place, then sliding it just a tad out of the way to be able to easily attach the SATA cable. You don’t have to move it much to make the whole process so much easier!

    jiclark - Replica

  48. Remove the single 7.2 mm T10 screw securing the hard drive tray to the rear enclosure.
    • Remove the single 7.2 mm T10 screw securing the hard drive tray to the rear enclosure.

  49. Remove the hard drive tray from the rear enclosure.
    • Remove the hard drive tray from the rear enclosure.

    You will have to reroute the sata cable beneath too. The drive tray will not simply lift out.

    biscuit - Replica

  50. Push on each side of the left speaker cable connector with the tip of a spudger and gently walk it out of its socket. Push on each side of the left speaker cable connector with the tip of a spudger and gently walk it out of its socket.
    • Push on each side of the left speaker cable connector with the tip of a spudger and gently walk it out of its socket.

    A step is entirely missing here – removing the right speaker cable connection from the logic board and also removing the right speaker casing (all the pictures below show it already having been removed). You actually don't need to entirely remove the right speaker to get the logic board out but you will need to remove its screws and lift it slightly. And you will need to remove its plug from the motherboard but that's not hard and it looks identical to the left speaker plug/socket.

    biscuit - Replica

  51. If necessary, use a pair of tweezers to gently peel the tape securing the left speaker cable to the SATA data/power cable. If necessary, use a pair of tweezers to gently peel the tape securing the left speaker cable to the SATA data/power cable.
    • If necessary, use a pair of tweezers to gently peel the tape securing the left speaker cable to the SATA data/power cable.

    Actually i didn't get why should i unstick the tape which gum up left speaker cable to the SATA data/power cable. It's gonna be hard to bond the tape again cause it looses the clue ability. I can definetely claim that there is no need to touch the tape.

    dv1977 - Replica

    I too can say that there was no reason to remove the tape.

    Jeffrey Gelinas -

    Agreed. I completed the repair without removing the tape.

    phil -

  52. De-route the left speaker cable by pulling it straight up out of the retaining clip in the back of the rear enclosure. In a similar fashion, lift the combo SATA data/power cable up out of the retaining clip. In a similar fashion, lift the combo SATA data/power cable up out of the retaining clip.
    • De-route the left speaker cable by pulling it straight up out of the retaining clip in the back of the rear enclosure.

    • In a similar fashion, lift the combo SATA data/power cable up out of the retaining clip.

  53. Use the flat edge of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the iSight camera cable connector. Pull the iSight camera cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Do not use excessive force. This is a delicate connector that can be easily damaged.
    • Use the flat edge of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the iSight camera cable connector.

    • Pull the iSight camera cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not use excessive force. This is a delicate connector that can be easily damaged.

  54. Use the flat edge of a spudger to disconnect each of the four antenna connectors from the AirPort/Bluetooth card. Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables. Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables.
    • Use the flat edge of a spudger to disconnect each of the four antenna connectors from the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

    • Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables.

    Be careful and tender here, otherwise you risk that the connectors brake

    Andreas - Replica

    Agreed, super easy to bend these and break them.

    jctracey - Replica

  55. Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board. Push the cable slightly to the right to clear it for the removal of the logic board. Push the cable slightly to the right to clear it for the removal of the logic board.
    • Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • Push the cable slightly to the right to clear it for the removal of the logic board.

  56. Remove the following screws securing the exhaust duct to the rear enclosure:
    • Remove the following screws securing the exhaust duct to the rear enclosure:

    • Two 6.3 mm T8 screws

    • Two 4.7 mm T8 screws

  57. Remove the four 7.2 mm T10 screws securing the logic board to the rear enclosure.
    • Remove the four 7.2 mm T10 screws securing the logic board to the rear enclosure.

    So a major problem for me here — my iMac (purchased 2018 ) has a solid circular fastener where the lower left T10 screw should be. So I think I’m dead in the water as far as getting the logic board off to put the new RAM in. I can’t see how people can insert the ram from behind without seeing it or being able to get two fingers to the tabs. I’m so frustrated with the design of this computer.

    jctracey - Replica

    That’s a new one on us! We’d love to see a photo. Any chance it’s a tamper-proof sticker hiding the head? You may also be able to turn it with a set of pliers if you can get a decent grip, just be careful not to bump any board components!

    Sam Goldheart - Replica

  58. Tilt the top of the logic board away from the rear enclosure. Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac. Be careful not to snag the board on any of the rear case's screw posts.
    • Tilt the top of the logic board away from the rear enclosure.

    • Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac.

    • Be careful not to snag the board on any of the rear case's screw posts.

    • The I/O boards at the bottom of the logic board will be the greatest challenge. It is recommended to pull gently to avoid any damage.

    If you have a helper (or if you're very coordinated and careful), you can very likely lift up the logic board far enough to replace both RAM modules without pulling the logic board all the way out. Just be careful what you touch, of course.

    phil - Replica

    This is the trickiest part of the whole operation. It took me a solid half hour to get the logic board out. I’m sure it would be easier a second time, because there’s not many delicate components around the USB/Internet sockets, so you can be a little more assertive with it than I felt comfortable doing.

    David Thompson - Replica

  59. When installing the logic board, take care to align the exterior I/O ports correctly. The logic board can sit crooked even when secured with all its screws. Use a USB flash drive and/or ethernet cable to ensure the logic board is seated correctly while you screw it in.
    • When installing the logic board, take care to align the exterior I/O ports correctly. The logic board can sit crooked even when secured with all its screws.

    • Use a USB flash drive and/or ethernet cable to ensure the logic board is seated correctly while you screw it in.

  60. Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth card to the logic board.
    • Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth card to the logic board.

  61. Slightly lift the AirPort/Bluetooth card and pull it straight out its socket. Do not use excessive force to pull the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth Card away from its socket on the logic board. Doing so may damage the socket. When reinstalling the card, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling the retaining screws.
    • Slightly lift the AirPort/Bluetooth card and pull it straight out its socket.

    • Do not use excessive force to pull the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth Card away from its socket on the logic board. Doing so may damage the socket.

    • When reinstalling the card, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling the retaining screws.

  62. Release the tabs on each side of the RAM module by simultaneously pushing each tab away. The RAM module should pop up slightly from its socket. Grab the top left and right corners of the RAM module and carefully pull it straight out of its socket.
    • Release the tabs on each side of the RAM module by simultaneously pushing each tab away.

    • The RAM module should pop up slightly from its socket.

    • Grab the top left and right corners of the RAM module and carefully pull it straight out of its socket.

    • Repeat the process to remove additional RAM modules as necessary.

  63. Grasp the hard drive power connector and gently pull it out of its socket on the logic board. Grasp the hard drive power connector and gently pull it out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Grasp the hard drive power connector and gently pull it out of its socket on the logic board.

  64. The SATA data connector has a clip that must be pressed to allow removal. While pressing on the clip with your thumb, lift and disconnect the SATA data connector from its socket on the logic board. While pressing on the clip with your thumb, lift and disconnect the SATA data connector from its socket on the logic board.
    • The SATA data connector has a clip that must be pressed to allow removal.

    • While pressing on the clip with your thumb, lift and disconnect the SATA data connector from its socket on the logic board.

  65. The following screws secure the heat sink to the logic board:
    • The following screws secure the heat sink to the logic board:

    • Remove the two T8 screws from the exhaust port end of the heat sink.

    • Loosen, but do not remove, the four captive T8 screws securing the CPU end of the heat sink.

  66. Slowly lift and remove the heat sink from the logic board. When reassembling your iMac, follow our thermal paste application guide to reapply the thermal paste.
    • Slowly lift and remove the heat sink from the logic board.

    • When reassembling your iMac, follow our thermal paste application guide to reapply the thermal paste.

    • During reassembly of the logic board, pay attention to the position of the I/O connectors. When the board is back in the case, insert a USB or Thunderbolt cable into one of the connectors to align it perfectly.

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Altre 8 persone hanno completato questa guida.

Sam Goldheart

Membro da: 18/10/2012

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Followed the guide and unfortunately i couldnt power the mac on after. But i suspect that the logic board or power might have been faulty

Mark Barner - Replica

Has this iMac a M.2 SSD port? I watched some other disassembly’s from this Mac and there was mentioned, that it has a M.2 port.

Hans Peter - Replica

Hi! Just pulling one of these apart now and “Yes” there is a proprietary PCIe connector for an SSD — has to be an Apple one though.

Geoff Paynter -

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