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  1. , Installazione dello sportello di accesso nell'iMac Intel EMC 2308 da 21,5": passo 1, immagine 1 di 2 , Installazione dello sportello di accesso nell'iMac Intel EMC 2308 da 21,5": passo 1, immagine 2 di 2
    • Allentare le tre viti con testa a croce che fissano lo sportello di accesso al bordo inferiore dell'iMac.

    • Le viti resteranno all'interno dello sportello di accesso.

    • Rimuovere lo sportello di accesso dall'iMac.

    • Durante il riassemblaggio, avvitare lo sportello di accesso senza stringere a fondo e allinearlo all'intaglio a taschino nel case esterno dell'iMac prima di serrare le viti a fondo.

    In order for the logic board to come out cleanly, one should remove the RAM at the end of this step.

    kevmacmills - Replica

    Definitely! The author should make this as a step in the description (because not everyone reads Comments)

    finnik2d - Replica

    Just did this procedure and the RAM must absolutely come out for the logic board to come free later.

    matt - Replica

  2. , Pannello di vetro: passo 2, immagine 1 di 2 , Pannello di vetro: passo 2, immagine 2 di 2
    Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:
    Heavy-Duty Suction Cups (Pair)
    $14.95
    Compra
    • Prima di iniziare, scollega l'iMac dall'alimentazione e poggialo su una superficie morbida come indicato.

    • Fai aderire una ventosa accanto a ciascuno dei due angoli superiori del pannello di vetro.

    • Per far aderire le nostre ventose, per prima cosa posizionale con la maniglia mobile parallela alla superficie del pannello di vetro. Tenendo delicatamente la ventosa contro il vetro, solleva la maniglia mobile finché non è parallela all'altra maniglia.

    • Se la ventosa non aderisce, prova a ripulire il pannello di vetro e la ventosa con un solvente delicato.

    Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.

    kctipton - Replica

    Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

    MaximBorzov - Replica

    You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.

    Deepsurvival - Replica

    That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.

    Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.

    max damage -

    No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.

    Nikolas Lintulaakso - Replica

    Nails worked for me too

    Rob Dale - Replica

    Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.

    Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.

    osienna - Replica

    I use Garmin GPS suction cup. Work very well

    jc3Dcx - Replica

    I’ve just successfully installed a 1TB SSD in place of my optical drive thanks to the information here- thank you to everyone who has contributed!

    3 comments- the procedure described here seems to vary between HD replacement and dual HD/optical drive replacement. This can be confusing at times.

    Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.

    I was able to replace the DVD/HD enclosure single-handedly without fully removing the LCD, or deconnecting any of the cables (steps 5-11). It’s a bit cramped, and fiddly, but I was not happy removing any of the cables despite watching videos, etc., since they all seemed to involve applying more force than I was comfortable with. A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the 2389 model.

    Good luck!

    ivan birks - Replica

    I did it several times with one suction cup at the end of a kitchen brush. Once with the blade of a swiss army knive, also ok. And i’m pretty sure it works with fingernails too

    Tai - Replica

    Fingernails are all you need to free the glass from its magnetic hold. If you don’t have them, slip something thin and plastic, like a spudger, at a top corner.

    Max Powers - Replica

    Minha dúvida é a seguinte: após o técnico trocar o HD do meu iMac de 21,5 polegadas, a câmera parou de funcionar. Seria por causa da troca do HD? Tem solução?

    Claudio - Replica

    Creio que o cabo da camera não foi plugado ou deu mau contato… ou até danificado.

    glecyo@gmail.com

    glecyo medeiros -

    I can’t get my glass to budge. I’m replacing a cracked one and now it’s about to shatter.

    jamboxmitchell - Replica

    I know that I'm replying really late but I advise to use clear tape over any cracks so the cracks don't get bigger

    Jace Holmes -

    Check for chips in the glass BEFORE you do this step. If there is a chip when you pull up with the suction cups you will wind up with a jagged mess. If you do have a chip I would advise covering the screen near the chip with clear tape of some kind before lifting out. Mine shattered right at the chip and the resulting glass dust cloud got all over. My solution was buying a new glass screen.

    BCam - Replica

  3. : passo 3, immagine 1 di 2 : passo 3, immagine 2 di 2
    • Solleva il pannello di vetro in perpendicolare rispetto alla superficie dello schermo LCD, affinché sia possibile liberare i piedini di montaggio in acciaio inseriti lungo il lato sottostante al bordo superiore del pannello di vetro.

    • Estrai il panello di vetro dal bordo inferiore dell'iMac e mettilo da parte con attenzione.

    • Durante la reinstallazione, pulisci con attenzione la parte interna del pannello di vetro e la superficie dello schermo LCD, poiché la polvere e le impronte digitali saranno sgradevolmente visibili durante l'uso della macchina.

    What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?

    Steve Speirs - Replica

    Microfiber Cloth

    Leonardo Fournier -

    Try your best not touch it in the first place

    Brian -

    Wearing Nitrile or regular surgical gloves helps prevent finger prints if you accidentally touch the glass.

    amiller770 - Replica

    I use a Swiffer duster from above at the last moment before I let the magnets grab the glass cover. This has worked so well the last dozen or so times I’ve replaced a glass cover since I never have access to a “clean room” and don’t wear a “bunny suit”.

    Also, more dust will shed from your skin if you’ve just taken a shower, so I like to finish these repairs in the morning before a shower.

    gatortpk - Replica

  4. , Display: passo 4, immagine 1 di 3 , Display: passo 4, immagine 2 di 3 , Display: passo 4, immagine 3 di 3
    • Rimuovi le otto viti Torx T10 da 8 mm che fissano il display al case esterno.

    • Le due ultime immagini mostrano in dettaglio ciascun lato dello schermo.

    On reassembly, it is REALLY HARD to align those screws, because of the field of the strong magnets that hold the glass cover on. I'm sure there's a trick to it, but I'd love to know what it is for future reference.

    Peter Shenkin - Replica

    I used needlenose pliers and the T10 to align the screw into the hole. Otherwise the screw keeps jumping to the magnet. And patience with this NON-CAPTIVE screw design (c’mon Apple, even **I** came up with that, and I’m an idiot!)

    finnik2d - Replica

    A short piece of small gauge vinyl tubing that fits tightly over the head of the T-10 driver leaving an 8th of an inch or so in which to insert the screw to engage the head will hold the screw long enough to keep it away from the magnet and get it going in the hole.

    Paul Boudreau - Replica

    I use non magnetic SS curved tip tweezers together with a magnetized #10 torx bit both to remove and reinstall the screws. You can magnetize and demagnetize the bit using the strong magnets on the LCD frame. Don't worry too much during removal, you can recover the screw. But loath the moment you drop the last screw during reassembly. For that reason, reinstall the screws near the magnets and hardest to get to first.

    Michael Ben-Yehuda - Replica

  5. : passo 5, immagine 1 di 1
    • Solleva leggermente il bordo superiore del display dal case esterno.

    • Non sollevare eccessivamente. Sono presenti numerosi cavi che collegano il display alla scheda logica.

    When putting the display back I have resistance from the foam elements (on the top end where the iSight is) and have to press down really hard. Is that okay?

    gm.konsortium - Replica

    Well, stupid me put the 3.5" to 2.5" cage the wrong side up. ;)

    gm.konsortium - Replica

    Standing the imac upright on its stand really helps this step! Laying it falt makes getting under the panel a real hassle.

    finnik2d - Replica

  6. : passo 6, immagine 1 di 3 : passo 6, immagine 2 di 3 : passo 6, immagine 3 di 3
    • Estrai il cavo piatto della sincronizzazione verticale dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda di azionamento LED, vicino all'angolo superiore sinistro dell'iMac.

    • Il cavo piatto della sincronizzazione verticale ha un'estremità di tipo ZIF, ma il suo zoccolo non dispone di un sistema di blocco o di un'aletta di fissaggio. Tira semplicemente il cavo dalla presa verso il lato dell'unità ottica dell'iMac per scollegarlo dalla scheda del driver LED.

    The vertical sync cable was snug initially and now is loose. I checked and the cable is intact. Has anyone had experience with making it fit better?

    Rajan - Replica

    Scotch tape on the upper side and sliding this in helped to secure the cable.

    Rajan - Replica

    Reassembly of this part was the closest I came to disaster on this project. I tried inserting the connector a few times without success, and when I looked it it the leads, which are fragile, were all mangled. I smoothed them out by hand as best I could and and reinserted, very carefully this time. The trick is that the tip of the connector should be pointed somewhat upwards when reconnecting.

    I was pretty sure that when I was done, I would reboot but have no display; but fortunately, everything worked.

    Peter Shenkin - Replica

    Hi, I still have a question. What is the "Job" of the vertical sync ribbon cable. Thanks

    Lutz Blum - Replica

    So let’s say someone wanted to suck some of the dust off the back of the display before reassembly. Let’s just say that. Someone would likely suck this forsaken cable up into the vacuum tube then, wouldn’t they? They might. And if it were to oscillate in a rushing torrent of air, it might get munged? It might.

    Here’s how you overcome such a disaster:

    1) cut the end fresh, as close to the end as you can while cutting off any frayed end.

    2) abrade the end gently, repeatedly, along the connector wire axis. I used emory paper. Your goal is to expose the copper conductors in the last 1/4” of the fragile evil wire.

    3) Tape a small stiff cardstock to the back of the end of the connector. This is essential to press the connector wires into the connector.

    4) Gently insert, taking special caution to not peel the copper off of the connector.

    5) Tape that connector down deftly, without letting it move a millimeter and securing it for all time.

    sydnius - Replica

    I just leave it connected. After disconnecting the other cables, there is enough slack to lay the display on its backside if you’re working on a flat surface.

    Duane Johnson - Replica

    I have replaced the hdd in this model about 8-10 times - I have never had to disconnect any cables other than the sata and temp sensor cables on the hdd. I just prop the lcd up with an egg carton (or something about 3 inches high that is soft and light) and access the hdd that way. The only thing I ever have trouble with are is putting the LCD screws back in around the magnets - but I have pretty much perfected that with a sissor/ tweezer tool.

    Suzanne Levy - Replica

    Could you put up some photos of this procedure - egg carton etc…

    Peter Barnett -

    Any ideas where to replace this cable?

    Danny Shaw - Replica

    I followed Suzanne’s comment and also did not disconnect this cable (vertical sync ribbon cable) to avoid damage. I pivoted the screen about 110 degrees after the other cables where detached. On a flat surface, this is easily done and the cable is not tight. Image of my angle if I can drop a link. and cable in this position not in tension.

    investments kkl - Replica

    Where can I buy the replacement for this vertical sync replacement cable?

    Neil Gonsalves - Replica

  7. : passo 7, immagine 1 di 3 : passo 7, immagine 2 di 3 : passo 7, immagine 3 di 3
    • Ruota il display dal case esterno affinché sia possibile scollegare il cavo di alimentazione della retroilluminazione LED dall'apposita scheda di azionamento.

    • Scollega il cavo di alimentazione della retroilluminazione LED premendo il meccanismo di blocco ed estraendo al contempo il connettore dalla relativa presa (verso il bordo inferiore dell'iMac).

    I found it easier to very slightly lift the front edge of the black connector with a small spudger, then gently pulling away towards the bottom of the iMac. Pressing felt a little crude and didn’t work for me.

    Anthony C Carnell - Replica

  8. : passo 8, immagine 1 di 1
    • Premi le due alette del connettore del cavo dati dello schermo contemporaneamente per sbloccarlo dallla sua presa sulla scheda logica.

    • Estrai il connettore del cavo dati del display dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    • Stai attento quando scolleghi e riconnetti questo cavo, perché si danneggia facilmente.

    in Step 7, my connector (new 21.5 iMac - Dec 2010) was not attached that way and just came of easily.

    erin - Replica

    Aperte as duas exibição do conector do cabo de dados braços juntos para desbloqueá-lo de seu soquete na placa lógica.

    Darlan Perira da Silva - Replica

    I accidently broke the data cable socket on step 7. Any advice on what i should do?

    Sam Tang - Replica

    I feel pretty silly. I spent wayyyy too long trying to get these cables disconnected. Happy I found this guide; hopefully, I won't struggle with such simple things since you provide pretty good details! Thanks.

    J.w. - Replica

    Pas beaucoup de place pour déconnecter ce cable ! En essayant d'ouvrir trop l'écran pour passer mes "grosses mains" j'ai cossé le connecteur : je suis dans le caca :-( (et pourtant j'en fait des démontages !) Alors ATTENTION !!!

    divers - Replica

    Il vaut mieux déconnecter la partie du côté écran en premier (sous l'autocollant noir)

    divers - Replica

    Je suis d’accord. C’est plus facile. Merci mon ami

    Anthony C Carnell -

    Translation: It is better to disconnect the screen side first (under the black sticker)

    Michael Seiler -

    ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS REMOVE THIS CABLE!!! Even if you are "only in there for a minute" tearing the connector off the board is EXTREMELY easy.

    DistroHopper39B - Replica

  9. : passo 9, immagine 1 di 1
    • Scollega il connettore del cavo del sensore termico dell'LCD dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    • Se la ventola funziona sempre alla massima velocità una volta rimontato il tutto, controlla questa connessione o il cavo del sensore termico del disco fisso.

    This is important regarding the fan running full speed

    http://blog.macsales.com/19617-diagnosin...

    tobykirkland - Replica

    Is there a way to test the power supply to see if it's dead?

    professorminh - Replica

    Achtung! Dieser Stecker kann sehr fest sitzen, hier hilft ein guter Fingernagel um den Stecker abwechselnd rechts und links zu Hebeln

    bluesoundsmusic - Replica

    English translation of bluesoundsmusic comment: “Caution! This plug can be very tight, here a good fingernail helps to lever the plug alternately right and left”

    investments kkl -

  10. : passo 10, immagine 1 di 1
    • Estrai con cautela il cavo verso il bordo superiore dell'iMac e sollevalo dal case esterno, facendo attenzione a non tirare altri cavi.

  11. , Alimentatore: passo 11, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi le quattro viti che fissano l'alimentatore al case esterno:

    • Due viti Torx T10 a passo fine da 22,2 mm

    • Una vite Torx T10 a passo grosso da 25 mm

    • Una vite Torx T10 a passo grosso da 9 mm

    • Nei passi successivi le tue mani saranno molto vicine al lato scoperto dell'alimentatore. Per evitare il rischio di scossa elettrica dovuta alla scarica dei condensatori ad alta capacità montati sul circuito stampato, non toccare quel lato dell'alimentatore.

    Watch orientation of iMac in relation to this picture: if the base is AWAY from you, the screw positions are reversed in this picture. Also use the black power cable for position reference.

    finnik2d - Replica

    fuuuuuuuck shiiiittt dammn that mf hurt like !&&* fucckken shocker here guys this macpos WILL KILL your ass be &&^&^$^ aware

    Jeff Robison - Replica

    I installed the power supply and nothing happened when I pushed the power on button, has this happened to someone else or should I also replace the power cable?

    Jose Valdez Jr. - Replica

    Okay, is the side with the soldier joints or the side with the capaciters the “face?”

    Also, you need to destroy that little hook that keeps the big connector on unless you have three strong little hands. Don’t worry, it’s not going to fall off, you can still cut yourself trying to wiggle that thing off. Especially when you are holding the board by the edges to avoid the “face.”

    Gladephone - Replica

    I've taken out the logic board on a late 2009 iMac twice in the last two years, and in neither case did I need to remove the power supply. You can do the rest of the steps without removing the power supply, so I would suggest just making things simpler and leaving it in.

    Phil McInnis - Replica

  12. : passo 12, immagine 1 di 1
    • Con molta attenzione solleva ed estrai l'alimentatore dal case esterno e fallo ruotare fino a scoprire il connettore come in figura, tenendo presente che il cavo della tensione di uscita è ancora collegato alla macchina.

    • Per scollegare il cavo di ingresso della tensione premi sul sistema di bloccaggio del connettore ed estrai il connettore stesso dalla presa sul circuito stampato.

    • Una volta estratto, tieni il connettore distante dall'alimentatore.

    I found my DC-In cable VERY difficult to detach. I depressed the locking mechanism, but still needed to use my iFixit Jimmy to carefully, gently, slowly work the cable connector (male) loose and away from the power supply (female).

    Bryan Jensen - Replica

  13. : passo 13, immagine 1 di 1
    • Per scollegare il cavo della tensione di ingresso, premi il meccanismo di bloccaggio ed estrai il connettore dalla presa.

    • Rimuovi l'alimentatore dal case esterno.

    This was not easy to disconnect with one hand holding the power supply (being careful while holding just to be cautious against any possible electrical discharge). Note that the connector is not on power supply side but on AC-In cable side. Couldn't quite see well enough from photo shown, but hold on the AC-In side of cable connector (depressing the locking mechanism of the male side) and pull away from the Power Supply (female side) cable.

    Bryan Jensen - Replica

    i’ve gotten away with not removing the PSU at all when removing the motherboard. havent had any issues

    Akeem Scrubb - Replica

  14. , Unità ottica: passo 14, immagine 1 di 1
    • Tira fuori dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda madre il connettore del sensore termico dell'unità ottica.

    While you’re here, disconnect that SD reader cable and don’t forget to plug it back in on your way back through: it’s not mentioned elsewhere in this guide.

    Corvallis Computer - Replica

    For me this cable was by the hard drive with a grey and a black wire labeled “ODD_TEMP”

    Bryan Remely - Replica

  15. : passo 15, immagine 1 di 1
    • Rimuovi le quattro viti Torx T10 da 9 mm che fissano l'unità ottica al case.

  16. : passo 16, immagine 1 di 1
    • Solleva dal bordo interno il disco ottico e fai passare il suo connettore oltre il telaio attaccato alla scheda logica.

    • Spingi con attenzione il disco ottico fuori dai suoi pin di montaggio sul bordo del case esterno in modo da avere spazio per disconnettere il cavo del disco ottico.

  17. : passo 17, immagine 1 di 1
    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per favorire la disconnessione del cavo del drive ottico.

    Be sure this cable doesn’t get stuck under the logic board during reassembly. Mine was under it, I was able to get it out but connecting it to the SuperDrive required a bit of force because my cable is so short.

    Javier Indesteege - Replica

  18. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 18, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the single 13 mm T10 Torx screw securing the optical drive fan to the outer case.

  19. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 19, immagine 1 di 1
    • Pull the optical drive off the pins attached to the outer case.

    Should read optical drive “fan” off the pins……

    Gordon Farley - Replica

  20. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 20, immagine 1 di 1
    • Pull the optical drive fan connector away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Remove the optical drive fan from the iMac.

  21. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 21, immagine 1 di 1
    • Pull the left and right speaker connectors toward the right side of the iMac to disconnect them from the logic board.

    Use a RED marker to tag the RIGHT speaker cable since both speaker cables look identical

    finnik2d - Replica

    I added a small piece of tape to one of the cables and took a picture to remember where each of them go

    Javier Indesteege - Replica

    I used a paint pen to draw a line across one of the sockets and its connector before removal

    Simon Pusey - Replica

  22. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 22, immagine 1 di 1
    • Disconnect the audio port cable by pulling its connector toward the right side of the iMac.

    Use your fingernails to wiggle out the black tabs at the connector; DON'T use the cable itself to remove from the logic board

    finnik2d - Replica

  23. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 23, immagine 1 di 1
    • Disconnect the AirPort cable by lifting its connector off the socket on the logic board.

    • Lift the connector perpendicular to the face of the logic board.

    Lift this one directly up towards your cieling. I almost snagged this one off like it was the other cables.

    Jonathan Diress - Replica

  24. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 24, immagine 1 di 1
    • Disconnect the following cables by pulling their connectors toward the top edge of the iMac:

    • Camera cable

    • Hard drive thermal sensor

    • Hard drive fan

    • Microphone

    • Disconnect the following cables by pulling their connectors toward the right edge of the iMac:

    • Ambient temperature sensor

    • Bluetooth cable

    You might need a spudger to pull the wires out in order to pull ambient temperature sensor and Bluetooth cable out. For mine, the cables were tucked in so it was really difficult just pull out the wires.

    Jonathan Diress - Replica

    The Bluetooth cable was refusing to disconnect. The cable goes under the logic board pulling the connector down, especially on my iMac it was very tight. What ultimately helped was sliding the flat end of the iFixit Halberd Spudger under the connector, lifting it slightly up. Then I was able to pull it out of the socket.

    Javier Indesteege - Replica

  25. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 25, immagine 1 di 1
    • Disconnect the CPU fan and power button by pulling their connectors toward the left edge of the iMac.

    Use tape to hold the connectors out of the way.

    Gladephone - Replica

  26. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 26, immagine 1 di 2 : passo 26, immagine 2 di 2
    • If present, remove the piece of tape covering the IR sensor connector.

    • Disconnect the IR sensor by pulling its connector toward the top edge of the iMac.

  27. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 27, immagine 1 di 1
    • Use your fingers to lift IR sensor assembly straight up out of the outer case.

  28. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 28, immagine 1 di 1
    • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to the outer case:

    • Three 25 mm T10 Torx

    • Two 21.5 mm T10 Torx

    • One 7 mm T10 Torx

    These photos do not show this iMac's optional configuration that contains a discreet GPU. If a GPU card is present there is another Torx screw that must be removed that holds an additional heat sink to the upper right corner of the enclosure. Note that in this configuration, the optical drive fan has a different configuration with a plastic separator that points towards the top of the iMac. This looks to serve as channel for airflow and is noteworthy because it makes the optical drive's SATA connector much more difficult to remove and quite difficult (for me anyway) to reassemble as it is a very tight fit!

    kevmacmills - Replica

    I made it to this step, then carefully removed dust from the back part, not touching any components, then used compressed air to get dust out since getting the whole logic board was a challenge, assembled and when I turn it on it loads normally, white screen with the logo, but then the screen goes black, and then the fans start running at the actual speed (I used SMC fan control) I had before I unplugged it to clean it, what could have happened? thank you =(

    Ricardo - Replica

    I had the additional GPU card, as mentioned by kevmacmills above, and needed to remove two Torx screws, one short one at the plastic separator, and one 7mm approx at the heatsink in the top right of the enclosure.

    Jurgen - Replica

  29. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 29, immagine 1 di 2 : passo 29, immagine 2 di 2
    • Remove the plastic ducts from the side of the LED driver board and the hard drive by pulling them away from the outer case.

  30. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 30, immagine 1 di 1
    • Carefully remove the aluminum tape attaching the GPU heat sink to the outer case.

    • It is not necessary to completely remove the aluminum tape from the GPU heat sink.

    OMG!

    I cannot believe it!

    Only by attaching one side of the golden GPU sionk with aluminum tape on the case, is it possible to well handle the thermal dissipation from the GPU

    bruce ayng - Replica

    Was anyone able to install the Q9550S cpu?

    jimmakosp - Replica

    Whoops, definitely tears easily. I tore it at two spots. At reassembly I was able to get it to adhere to the case nonetheless by rubbing along the aluminium tape using my finger nail.

    Javier Indesteege - Replica

  31. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 31, immagine 1 di 1
    • In the following steps, you will maneuver the logic board out from the outer case. In doing so, be aware of the many cables still attaching the logic board to the outer case.

    • Be sure the logic board clears the plastic lower optical drive fan mounting pin before lifting it up, as it is easily snapped off.

    Be sure you have REMOVED YOUR RAM MEMORY before trying to wiggle out the logic board!

    finnik2d - Replica

    Thank you! I don’t understand why it’s not mentioned in the guide

    Javier Indesteege -

  32. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 32, immagine 1 di 1
    • Carefully pull the logic board slightly away from the outer case.

    • While holding the board away from the outer case, rotate the board back and forth while lifting up to release it from the outer case.

    If you're having trouble getting the logic board to come free, you probably need to remove the RAM. That was keeping it from coming free in my case.

    matt - Replica

    My logic board has an extra metal attachment extending to fan grills, which this photo does not show. Help needed. Is there any way I can up load a photo of my logic board?

    winner43 - Replica

    During reassembly make sure all I/O connectors are above the logic board and not under it! I also connected three USB drives to align the logic board.

    Javier Indesteege - Replica

  33. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 33, immagine 1 di 2 : passo 33, immagine 2 di 2
    • Now that the lower edge of the board is free from the outer case, rotate the logic board toward yourself to expose its rear face.

    • The following connector has a tendency to stick in its socket. If so, insert a metal spudger into the gap between the connecter and its socket. Twist the spudger to separate the two components.

    • Carefully pull the optical drive connector away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the connector perpendicular to the face of the logic board.

  34. Questo passaggio è privo di traduzione. Aiuta a tradurlo

    : passo 34, immagine 1 di 1
    • Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board by simultaneously depressing the locking lever on the connector while pulling it away from its socket.

    • Remove the logic board from the outer case.

    • During reassembly of the logic board, pay attention to the position of the I/O connectors. When the board is back in the case, insert a USB or Thunderbolt cable into one of the connectors to align it perfectly.

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9 Commenti

where comes this part from ? www.geko.ch/imacpart.jpg ???

iMac A1311

Pitoun Geko - Replica

I forgot to put the Plastic Duct back on the LED driver board, is it important?

CHARNSAK SRISAWATSAKUL - Replica

you should place it in place, it helps to redirect the air and avoids heath acumulation in the led driver

Alfredo Morales -

Is the CPU removable?

Reuben Talbott - Replica

@Reuben Talbott , a little late, but I have a answer for you: yes, you can remove the CPU on this motherboard, but if you think in upgrade, you can only change the C2D E7600 @3.06Mhz for the E8600 @3.33Mhz, only 20% improvement, but this days is a very, very cheap upgrade. If you already have the E8600 you can’t get anything better for this motherboard, besides a very indispensable upgrade is the SSD upgrade, even if you dont change the CPU you centainly notice the improvement.

Alfredo Morales -

Is the CPU removable?

Reuben Talbott - Replica

Hello! I used this guide to change thermal paste on the GPU and CPU. First time I ever did something relative to IT/repair in my life (I am 30 years old). The guide was very well constructed.

It didn’t fix my problem (shutting down when trying to boot up), so I will try to roast the GPU card in the oven for 200 Celsius for 9 minutes. But that’s not this guides’ fault. Last hope, wish me luck!

Alex Anfinnes - Replica

Alex, if you haven't already, I would not recommend roasting your GPU in the oven at 200 C. Generally speaking anything above 100 C is not great for computer components.

I'd be more than happy to try and work through the problem with you to figure out which component might be malfunctioning.

Also, which brand thermal paste did you use? Thermal paste is usually nonconductive so it shouldn't be shorting anything on your GPU, unless it's something like Thermal Grizzly's Conductonaut.

Samson Thornhill -

Imac 2009. 21.5, Out topic question. I have installed a new GPU ATA 4650, used one. The computer boot, I hear schim, dvd, the backight turn on, but nothing more. I reset pram, I had schim. I tried target mode, the hard drive mounted on a second computer, worked well well. I checked main video cable.

What can be ?

jeangould - Replica

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