Poggiare l'iMac sul lato anteriore su un tavolo, con il bordo inferiore rivolto verso l'utente.
  • Poggiare l'iMac sul lato anteriore su un tavolo, con il bordo inferiore rivolto verso l'utente.

  • Allentare la vite con testa a croce al centro dello sportello di accesso.

  • La vite resta all'interno dello sportello di accesso.

  • Rimuovere lo sportello di accesso dall'iMac.

The grid won't fall off by itself. You'll have to help it. Use the smallest screwdriver you have; the Torx 6 worked fine for me. It should enter in one of the many holes composing the grid. Use it as a lever to ploy the grid a little bit. You may catch it with your fingers and that's it.

Be carefull not to damage the hole by a too strong leverage.

Laurent - Replica

much more safer to use duct tape, instead of torx 6. (glue it along the length of the grid and pull). it will loose instantly and smooth;)

Hofmann78rus - Replica

Anyone know a guide to replace the plastic piece this screw connects to? I accidentally forgot this step - went to remove the front bezel and bent the plastic piece the access door connects to.

Jason Augustin - Replica

Il pannello di vetro è fissato nella mascherina anteriore con quattordici magneti posizionati lungo il perimetro.
  • Il pannello di vetro è fissato nella mascherina anteriore con quattordici magneti posizionati lungo il perimetro.

  • Far aderire due ventose agli angoli opposti del pannello di vetro.

  • Per far aderire le nostre ventose, per prima cosa posizionarle con la maniglia semovente parallela alla superficie del pannello di vetro. Tenendo delicatamente la ventosa contro il vetro, sollevare la maniglia semovente finché non è parallela all'altra maniglia.

  • Se la ventosa non aderisce, provare a ripulire il pannello di vetro e la ventosa con un solvente delicato.

A good alternative to the two heavy duty suction cups is a regular household plunger.

Russell Knight - Replica

Also, 2" wide packing tape. Maybe a 6 or 8" piece, folded in the middle to give you say, a 1-2" "handle". Make a pair of these. They look like a capital T but with a short vertical part (the handle), and a wide top I the sticky wings). Get the good 3M tape, it's strong, and it peels off clean without leaving any glue from the screen.

Barry Coyle - Replica

for me one household plunger did the trick!

Ronald Huygen - Replica

  • Estrai delicatamente il pannello di vetro dall'iMac.

  • Il pannello di vetro presenta diversi piedini di posizionamento lungo il perimetro. Per evitare di staccare i piedini dal pannello di vetro, fare attenzione a rimuoverlo solo tirando verso l'alto.

  • Pulire con attenzione la parte interna del pannello di vetro e l'LCD, poiché la polvere e le impronte digitali saranno sgradevolmente visibili durante l'accensione del display.

  • Quando sostituisci il vetro, assicurati che non ci sia nulla tra il vetro stesso e il suo supporto. Eventuali cavi volanti potrebbero danneggiarsi o rompere il pannello.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Rimuovere le 12 viti seguenti, che fissano la mascherina anteriore al case posteriore:

    • Otto viti Torx T8 da 13 mm.

    • Quattro viti Torx T8 da 25 mm.

  • Nell'iMac Intel modello A1225 da 24", le due viti nella parte inferiore centrale sono lunghe (26 mm), le quattro ai lati (due a sinistra, due a destra) sono medie (18 mm) e le restanti 6 (quattro nella parte superiore e due negli angoli inferiori) sono corte (14 mm).

I would strongly suggest taping the screws down on a piece of paper towel or cloth in the same order you take them out, as there are different lengths in no particular order and they don't all fit into just any hole. Unless you keep track of which hole each screw belongs, there is no other way of knowing. I stress taping because I didn't tape mine down and after bumping the table I was working on they scattered, leaving me to guess.

Len - Replica

Even better, use an ice cube tray to keep the screws from each step together.

maccentric - Replica

how about using the magnets near the screws to keep their positions?

Andy - Replica

I use an 18 count egg carton (or two) and label each egg slot with a Sharpie. Works great.

airira - Replica

As a rule with iFixit repairs, for years I've been printing the guides, applying scotch magic tape near each picture (which allows me to reutilise the paper prints in the future), neatly putting the appropriate screw next to their picture and taping them down with scotch magic tape.

Even if I have to wait for spare parts, this allows me to neatly file the guide + screws in a copy safe and a binder (or in a cardboard filing box together with the rest of the parts) for later reassembly. Hardly any mistake possible...

Bart Van Dessel - Replica

I think the caption on the picture is wrong here for 24" iMacs - it says: "On the 24" iMac Intel Model A1225, the bottom center two screws are long (26mm), four on sides (two left, two right) are medium (18mm), and the remaining 6 (four top, two bottom corners) are short (14mm)." I think actually bottom centre two are long, then all the rest are medium apart from the two either side of the CD/DVD drive

HBloomfield - Replica

I print out the steps. Get a roll of scotch tape ready. Every screw, or set of screws I remove, I lay on some tape, and then tape them to the number on the directions. Then you have each screw labeled, with direction, and in order, or reassembly. Just working backwards in the directions.

Barry Coyle - Replica

  • La mascherina anteriore è ancora collegata all'iMac mediante il cavo del microfono.

  • Sollevare delicatamente la mascherina dal bordo superiore, lontano dal case posteriore.

  • Dopo aver rimosso il bordo superiore della mascherina anteriore dal case posteriore, ruotare la mascherina verso la staffa ed estrarla dal case posteriore.

  • Ruotare la mascherina anteriore lontano dal resto del dispositivo e adagiarla sul bordo superiore dell'iMac.

  • Per la reinstallazione della mascherina anteriore, iniziare dal bordo inferiore e verificare che sia allineata con il case posteriore prima di poggiare il bordo superiore sull'iMac.

Contrary to the pictures, to lift the front bezel off, start at top of the computer screen lifting up while apply a little bit of pressure to the foam in the upper corners of the screen. This will give you the leverage needed to get the bezel to lift up. Be careful to not pull to fast, as the camera cable is still attached.

armand - Replica

you'll need to add this step in all the other tutorials about iMac 20" EMC 2210, where it is missing ; they all jump from step 5 to step 6, which is a little annoying...

Armel h - Replica

Easy way to remove bezel, insert the longest screws a quarter turn into the two top most edge screw slots. Use the screws as anchors to press against as you pull the bezel toward you. Then a simple twist to remove the screws, and the rest of the bezel comes off easy.

armand - Replica

  • Scollegare il connettore del cavo del microfono, rimuovendo il nastro secondo necessità.

  • Affinché la mascherina anteriore sia posizionata correttamente, verificare di aver inserito il connettore nello spazio vuoto accanto alla scheda della fotocamera.

During reinstallation of the LCD panel, be sure that the iSight microphone cable does not become trapped behind the panel.

Ocean Yamaha - Replica

I actually didn't have to remove the cable. With the iMac laying on its back, just rotate the front bezel (bottom edge rotating around top edge) so that it's laying upside down, above the iMac. When reassembling, just rotate back into place.

Brian Tsai - Replica

  • Estrarre il connettore del sensore temperatura dell'LCD direttamente dal connettore sulla scheda logica.

  • (nella parte superiore della scheda logica nel modello da 24")

Aggiungi Commento

  • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T6 che fissano il cavo dati del display alla scheda logica.

  • Utilizzare la linguetta nera per estrarre il connettore del cavo dati del display direttamente dalla scheda logica.

I found this to be the most frustrating thing to remove out of everything under the hood. I had to have my wife use her skinny, smaller fingers to jimmy it up, but the tape kept pulling up and separating from the connector. I was worried that I was pulling in the wrong direction (what do I know about logic boards?) and that the tab was going to come off as it is slick tape. She eventually got it, but she did have to use some force. If you don't have a set of skinny fingers, just be patient and use a little force. I think the instructions should tell you to pull straight UP on the black tab, rather than 'away from the logic board', for those of us that don't really understand the technical components/guts of a computer. Honestly, my wife knows less than I do, but she could have done this as easily as me.

Len - Replica

  • Rimuovere le otto viti Torx T8 che fissano il pannello del display al case posteriore.

  • Sollevare il pannello del display dal bordo sinistro e ruotarlo verso il bordo destro dell'iMac.

Some extra tools I found to be invaluable in this whole process was canned air (used for keyboards and office dust), a microfiber cloth (preferably the one that came with your iMac if you still have it, but you can get these almost anywhere these days)and one of those soft foam monitor covers to put over the monitor while your friend is holding it up (a soft sheet or towel might work too). If your computer is a few years old like mine, there will be a considerable amount of dust that you will want to clear out (and will fly everywhere anyway). Once you cleared that out and replace the hard drive, wait until you've got the bezel and screws back on before using the canned air and microfiber cloth to make sure all dust and lint is clear of the monitor. This is where the second person will come in handy again. They can wipe while you spray. Get your glass top with suction cups still attached ready and wipe that with the cloth and air as well. While your friend does one last wipe of the glass and then the monitor, put the glass on as soon as possible so no more lint or dust falls onto the monitor. I did this and the monitor looks as beautiful and clear as the day I bought the iMac. It is truly a brilliant and beautiful design by Apple and LG.

Len - Replica

In this step, as I lifted the display, there was also a small cord in the front, near the fan, that was connected from the display to the inside panel. As I lifted, it unplugged. Anyone know what this is and where it goes when I put it all back together? Pic of the cord I'm referring to: http://i68.tinypic.com/keubkg.jpg

shauhncy - Replica

  • Mentre il pannello del display è sollevato, scollegare i quattro cavi dell'inverter.

  • Durante la reinstallazione, posizionare i quattro connettori dei cavi dell'inverter negli spazi vuoti fra i componenti collegati al pannello posteriore per garantire il corretto allineamento del pannello del display sui bordi del case posteriore.

  • (in un solo connettore nel modello da 24")

I did a HD replacement on my 24 inch iMac. It's mostly the same, but it does not have disconnectable inverter cables. Instead, there's a single cable that can't be disconnected. It sits too tight to rotate the display to the degree that you can lean it against something, so the only way to get the job done was to call in an extra set of hands to hold the display while I took out the hard drive.

Marijn - Replica

I'm almost sure by HD you meant HDD (Hard disc drive).

Charles Hess -

As Marijn said, there are no disconnectable inverter cables on the 24" iMac, just a single thick cable in the middle of the back that is heavily taped with black electrical tape. I imagine you could remove that and retape, but it seems like it would be more trouble than it's worth. There is definitely enough clearance for someone else to hold the monitor up and away from the hard drive. For this reason, I would not attempt to replace the hard drive on a 24" without another person to help. The monitor is not heavy, and it doesn't take a ton of time to remove the old hard drive. It would also help if one of you has skinny fingers ;-).

Len - Replica

Mark them before unplugging so you can reconnect them the right way when reinstalling!

Dirk Simons - Replica

On the 24" iMac, the single inverter cable can be easily disconnected from the back of the LCD panel after peeling back some of the thin black plastic film. It is not necessary to disconnect the panel if you have four hands, but sure makes the job easier.

Geoff Shepherd - Replica

sh******t I didn't mark the connectors and now I don't know how to plug them back. I'm doomed ! any trick to identify them ?

cheers

Julien Waroux - Replica

Same here. What did you do? Try them both ways?

Leon Wagner -

hold the led with my head lmao

b12amyh - Replica

You have to mark the Cables so you can reassembly them in the right order.

If you don't (like me) and go with trial and error you probably have a purple screen.

If so, you might also have been close to a heartattack… do a PRAM Reset by pressing command-Option-P-R at restart.

My iMac works fine now.

Pascal - Replica

OMG, Thank you for this comment. I didn't initially label the inverter cables either. I did a fan replacement and RAM upgrade on a friends 20" iMac and had staticy, purplish screen. I thought I'd damaged the LCD. The PRAM reset fixed the display issue. Thank you so much for this!!!

gwarren -

I have the purple screen. :( I tried the pram reset. Do I switch the inverter cable connectors first?

jaredrod - Replica

I didn't mark the cables either, and now have a gray screen. I´m doing trial and error but can't get it to work. Any tips on finding the right cables?

Marcus Svensson - Replica

  • Per rimuovere la staffa del disco rigido, premere la parte centrale contro il lato del disco, ruotando il bordo superiore sinistro verso di sé.

  • Dopo aver liberato il bordo sinistro, ruotare la staffa verso il bordo destro del disco rigido.

  • Sollevare la staffa del disco rigido dal case.

Prying the plastic bar that locks the HDD into place was probably the most difficult part of the operation, for me. It just didn't want to let go, and until you've actually removed one, it's not exactly clear how it's holding on. The left side basically has a thin wedge on the back that wedges in between the rubber grommet and the mounting bracket

modsolok - Replica

  • Se presente, rimuovere il pezzetto di nastro che copre i cavi del sensore temperatura del disco rigido e dell'unità ottica.

If there is some clear tape holding the excess play in the HDD thermal sensor wire, against the body back, peel it up to free the wire and give yourself as much free play as possible. When reassembling, tape back to the body.

Brian Tsai - Replica

  • Scollegare il cavo del sensore termico del disco rigido dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica.

  • Durante la rimozione del connettore, può essere utile premere con i pollici le linguette sui lati del connettore verso la parte superiore dell'iMac.

I found it was not necessary to do this step if you do step 20 first - i.e disconnect the temperature sensor cable from the hard drive, but not the logic board

HBloomfield - Replica

As HBloomfield said, you do NOT have to remove the sensor from the iMac body. Instead, remove the sensor from the HDD while it is still connected to the body.

If the sensor is covered with a 4mm black foam square, use your index fingernail to scrape off one of the corners where there is adhesive. If you pull on just the foam part, it will tear the foam.

Brian Tsai - Replica

  • Ruotare la parte superiore dell'unità verso di sé, quindi sollevare il disco rigido direttamente dai piedini inferiori.

  • Il disco rigido è ancora collegato mediante i cavi SATA.

  • Durante la reinstallazione del disco rigido, fare attenzione a non premere gli anelli di tenuta in gomma attraverso le aperture del case con i piedini inferiori del disco rigido, poiché per recuperarli potrebbe essere necessario rimuovere la scheda logica.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Inserire l'estremità piatta di un inseritore fra il cavo dati SATA e il bordo del disco rigido.

  • Ruotare l'inseritore per separare il cavo dati SATA dal disco rigido.

  • Scollegare il cavo dati SATA dal disco rigido.

  • Ripetere la procedura per il cavo di alimentazione SATA.

  • Sollevare il disco rigido dall'iMac, facendo attenzione a non incastrare il cavo del sensore termico.

I honestly didn't find the spudger to be necessary for most of this replacement. It is a nice little tool that makes one or two steps easier, but it is far from necessary. I imagine an old stylus you may have laying around would do just as good a job. I would definitely suggest putting the iMac on it's stand straight up to remove the hard drive bracket from it's post, as it sits very tightly in there. I found it popped out a LOT easier on it's stand than laying down, which was next to impossible. You do have to do some careful manuevering with your partner in order to accomplish this, but it's worth it. Take it slow.

Len - Replica

When replacing, the SATA data cable did not extend to the new drive.

Nathan Suri - Replica

THIS. A hundred times THIS. I wanted to put in an SSD, and was miffed to see that the SSD was to be placed in the middle of the 2.5" to 3.5" adapter. Unfortunately, that means that the SATA cable did not reach. I tried three different adapters, all the same. I even tried to BUILD an adapter myself from flat pieces of metal (I wouldn't recommend it). In the end, I got a SATA extension cable and simply taped the SSD into the case where the HDD used to be. We'll see if any problems crop up. Since it's very light though and doesn't produce much heat I don't think there should be a problem.

Wolf Dapp -

You will need a dock that puts the connectors in the same place if you want to use an SSD. I've had decent luck with the Icy Dock.

maccentric -

  • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T10 e i rispettivi anelli di tenuta in gomma dal disco rigido.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Rimuovere i due piedini Torx T10 dal lato del disco rigido, vicino ai connettori dati e di alimentazione.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Rimuovere la porzione di nastro in schiuma che copre il sensore termico del disco rigido.

There was no tape on the drive you sent me...

andymcdonell - Replica

Citazione da andymcdonell:

There was no tape on the drive you sent me...

Transfer the piece of foam tape from the old drive to your new drive. If it is no longer sticky, it is fine to use a strip of electrical or duct tape to hold the foam tape down against the drive.

Andrew Bookholt - Replica

  • Per rimuovere il sensore termico del disco rigido, utilizzare l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare l'aletta centrale della staffa del sensore termico, applicando una leggera tensione al cavo del sensore.

  • Se il sensore termico è incastrato nel disco rigido, andare al passaggio successivo.

I found these instructions to be a little unclear. What you are looking at after removing the foam, is a bracket that is basically holding down the thermal sensor at the end of those wires coming out(which you can't see because it's UNDER the bracket). I found the bracket to be fairly easy to just pull up and off. The spudger (or even a tiny flathead screwdriver) can easily accomplish this if it's glued on tight. Once the bracket comes off, the thermal sensor is freed, and in my case fell away from the bracket. Just try to keep those pieces together in the order they came off. Fortunately, as easy as the bracket came off, it was easily pushed back onto the new hard drive with no trouble at all. The foam was pretty sticky still as well, although I had to double tape one side of it to secure it over the bracket.

Len - Replica

  • Mediante l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, rimuovere la staffa del sensore termico del disco rigido dall'adesivo che la fissa all'unità stessa.

  • Qualora l'adesivo si sporcasse o non aderisse al nuovo disco rigido, posizionare un pezzo di nastro biadesivo sotto le due linguette semicircolari della staffa del sensore termico.

Aggiungi Commento

  • Con uno spudger rimuovi la piccola parte di schiuma EMI dal lato superiore del disco rigido.

  • Non dimenticare di trasferire il componente alla nuova unità.

  • Se stai installando un nuovo disco fisso, abbiamo una guida installazione OS X per farti riprendere subito il lavoro.

Make sure you don't forget this step! I forgot this step, got everything back together, then had to take it all apart again to affix this! Not fun. That said, the second time went MUCH faster, and I found myself appreciating this design a lot more. It is much less daunting now, and is much easier than upgrading the RAM in a Mac Mini.

Len - Replica

I followed this to replace hard disk with an SSD. These instructions and comments pretty much cover it. Only had to disconnect #7 cable and a little cable near the center of the system board; flipping/rotating bezel/screen avoided other disconnects. I used a permanent marker to label bezel holes "L" and "VL" (long and very long) to put those screws back properly.

My main problem: I expected a 2.5" hard disk but found a 3.5". Micro Center talked me into an IcyDock 2.5" --> 3.5" adapter, defective (ended up just taping the SSD down). Between that and not loading OS on the SSD before installing (basically: attach SSD via USB, boot while pressing command-R) meant I got to do this disassembly/assembly several times.

Worth it to buy a bottle of air to blow out dust, a 3.5" external enclosure (for the former internal hard disk), and maybe a CR2032? coin battery while you're at it. Group permissions on the hard disk's user files will be broken afterwards, easily fixed.

David Menges - Replica

i can not install osx on the new disk

don't assume the usb pen i have to install the osx can you help me?

djactomicoutblast - Replica

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il dispositivo, seguire queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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Because there are no instructions for the 24", I used these and they worked fine. I shelled out $10 for the suction cups ifixit provides, but honestly the glass is really thin and lightweight, so cheapo suction cups from Home Depot should work just fine.

Len - Replica

I couldnt agree more. The "Glass" is of couse plastic. I bought some whimpy suction cups in multi pack from Target and after i stuckem to the glass, it came off almost to easy. I was expecting a fight, i didnt get one.

Scott Mutterer -

I am about as untechnically proficient as you can imagine, yet replacing the hard drive was not as daunting as it first seemed when following these FANTASTIC step by step instructions. I was forced to do this because of a lack of money, but having done it, I'm glad I did. Even if I had the money, it's not worth the $500 it costs to have an Apple dealer or Apple themselves replace the hard drive. Just take your time and don't force anything, and you should be done in no more than an hour. Kudos ifixit!

Len - Replica

On my 24" iMac, I only needed to disconnect the first LCD Cable (before removing the LCD's torx screws), then I was able to pivot the LCD up 90 degrees, to get access to the hard disk. It was nice not having to disconnect (and reconnect the 2nd and 3rd cables. Now I have 3TB! (Seagate Barrracuda ST3000DM001). Note: I first tried putting the 3TB disk into an SATA USB enclosure, so I could transfer the data before opening up the iMac, but I found out the some of the older USB enclosures don't work with >2TB disks.

Jeff D - Replica

I followed the guide, and it worked fine. The new HD is working without problems. But now my Mac has a buzzing noise on it's top left part. What should I do?

Paulo Cesar - Replica

Hi everybody,

I followed this guide, step by step to replace the former HDD by a brand new SDD.

Unfortunately, since my iMac is reassembled, I've been facing an issue with the display.

It shows like statics in from of the image. We see the desktop, icons and system in background but there are glittering red and grey points in front of it. i've tried to disassemble, check the different cables and plugs, but nothing... Could you help me, please ?

Fred - Replica

Ok, just for you to know. I solved the problem by zapping the PRAM (apple-alt-p-r)

Fred -

Great tutorial, works for the 20inch iMac as well. MAKE SURE TO LABEL YOUR CABLES!

Zach - Replica

Awesome like always! Practical, concise and didactical! I've done well. Very satisfied.

Five stars and congrats to you at ifixit. I love this website!!!

PaTo

pgomezddv - Replica

I just replaced my 20" iMac hard drive with a Solid State Drive (SSD) using these instructions. The only difference is that you need to buy a 2.5" to 3.5" hard drive bay adapter/converter, and mount the SSD drive onto the adapter with screws. Everything else is the same.

Dennis - Replica

Hello Dennis,

What brand 2.5" to 3.5" hard drive bay adapter/converter did you use?

Thanks! Tedd L

Tedd Lupella -

Dear people, thank you for this great guide. It worked good. We replaced the Hard Drive for a SSD in a bracket. This speeds up the iMac very much! I recommend to do the work with 2 persons. We found out that the spudger wasn't neccessary.

Arnold - Replica

The glass is glass Scott. It will shatter if you don't take it straight off. If you lever it open like a door, you will either break off the metal pins that are bonded to the glass, or crack the screen or both.

If you can get a pick in the edge, you can remove it without Suction cups, though they do help to remove it straight off without bending the pins.

If you are just doing the drive, then you can do it all without taking off the Screen completely. You just need to unplug the Inverter cables to lean the screen back then you can remove the drive, replace the drive and close it all up again.

Be aware the drive cables are very short in the 20" model. You will need a drive carrier that places the SSD data and power connectors in a similar location to a 3.5" drive (which these carriers are quite rare). Or get an SATA+Power extension cable for a couple of bucks.

You could do away with a bracket and use double sided foam tape or strong double lock velcro blocks to position a SSD on the back of the iMac.

Charlie Nancarrow - Replica

I wish I would have read some of the comments, especially about needing a particular kind of adapter to install a 2.5" SSD. A note at the top about this would be the only way to improve these most excellent instructions. I found a stainless steel, vented adapter that has one open side, and a connector for the SSD. The outside of the case has the SATA connectors in exactly the same place as a 3.5" HDD, so the lack of slack in the SATA cables is no issue. The metal is thick enough to properly seat the mounting pins. I don't want to violate any iFixit TOS, so I'll just say that the unit I bought, a 3.5 Inch SATA Bay Adapter Converter Bracket Mounting Kit, is very, very cool. Freezing cool, a perfect dock for your new SSD.

modsolok - Replica

i used the suction cup on my GPS...it worked and it was FREE

Rich Glunt - Replica

Great, clear instructions. I had no trouble removing the hard drive from my damaged A1224. Instead of the suction cups, I simply used balled-up duct tape, which I learned from a related YouTube video.

ralph.h.earle - Replica

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