1. Allenta le due viti con testa a croce Phillips che fissano lo sportello di accesso all'iMac.
    • Allenta le due viti con testa a croce Phillips che fissano lo sportello di accesso all'iMac.

    • Entrambe le viti restano all'interno dello sportello di accesso.

    • Rimuovi lo sportello di accesso.

    • Prima di iniziare la riparazione, scollega l'alimentazione del computer e tieni premuto il pulsante di accensione per 20-30 secondi per scaricare i condensatori interni.

    Swapping in a new CPU and an SSD took me about 10 hours. I did take a dinner break and spent another hour rooting around in my garage to find my thermal paste. Still, this procedure can take a long time.

    gordonhamachi - Replica

    Only a french translation proposal. We use to say “démontage” instead of “installation'“ in that specific case. ;-) (Dismantling)

    francis barbier - Replica

  2. Rimuovere le viti seguenti lungo il bordo inferiore dell'iMac:
    • Rimuovere le viti seguenti lungo il bordo inferiore dell'iMac:

      • Tre viti Torx T8 da 6 mm

      • Una vite Torx T8 da 8 mm (lato destro dello slot RAM nel modello 2105)

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Riposizionare l'iMac in posizione diritta, sulla staffa.

    • Inserire una scheda di plastica nell'angolo della fessura di ventilazione accanto alla parte superiore del case posteriore.

    • Premere la scheda verso la parte superiore dell'iMac per sganciare la chiusura della mascherina anteriore.

    • Rimuovere la mascherina anteriore dal case posteriore.

    • Ripetere la procedura per l'altro lato della mascherina anteriore.

    • Potrebbe essere necessario applicare vari strati di nastro isolante sulla parte superiore della scheda di accesso, per agevolare lo sgancio delle chiusure.

    • Se la mascherina non si sgancia, provare a sollevare leggermente il bordo inferiore della mascherina anteriore dal case posteriore (l'operazione viene spiegata nei passaggi successivi) e ripetere la procedura di sgancio della chiusura.

    I have never seen a pict of the bezel latch, I hope this picture link helps you to figure out what is inside that you need the cc to hit to release, I had a tough time making it work but managed just before I gave up! http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb35/...

    ReneBruce - Replica

    the photo of latch is no longer there at Photobucket

    rmshreffler -

    When you put this back together, make sure you place the bevel latches UNDER/INSIDE the case frame.

    robino - Replica

    Citazione da ReneBruce:

    I have never seen a pict of the bezel latch, I hope this picture link helps you to figure out what is inside that you need the cc to hit to release, I had a tough time making it work but managed just before I gave up! http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb35/...

    Thanks, your picture helped me.

    robino - Replica

    Rather than through the vent at the back. Ease the bottom of the front bezel away from the screen and then in the gap created between the screen and the front bezel, insert your card here and push up to release the latch. This is especially the method to use, if you have already tried everything else above, as you may have bent the latches, and you'll never get them to relase the conventional way.

    Charlie - Replica

    Good tip. I sort of did this out of desperation before reading this. Seem to work to get it apart. I'll have to see about getting it back together.

    David Sutherland -

    On the 24 inch model, there are no latches. Instead the front bezel has four tabs which slot into the rear case. It's very easy to remove.

    manfred - Replica

    Wow, I really got stuck on the bezel. I tried a credit card, even a flexible metal scraper, nope nothing budged. I finally got going with help from this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzuBW3mu7... which the guy has the machine lying on its back, then you can carefully bend the front bezel up until you see the latches, and I got the scraper in front of the screen and un-did the latches that way. Onto the next step!

    sleestack - Replica

    Replaced one of the redundant images of the card going into the slot, with the previously linked image of the latch itself. I was struggling to figure out how to get the thing open, thinking it was a latch that pushed *up* to the top of the system, but it actually pushes *forward* towards the screen. That accounts for the bending of the card, and the excess length required to insert it. After figuring that out, the case came off nicely.

    Matt Falcon - Replica

    Apple uses a powerful magnet to release these latches, but the official tool is not available. If you have access to a few failed hard drives, you can take out the magnets from those, and stack them up to have a magnet strong enough to easily open these latches.

    Simply place the magnet on an upper corner of the machine, and when you hear a click, gently pull the corner of the front case forward. Repeat the process for the other upper corner. Use care not to pull on the iSight cables.

    Note: Use care when handling the hard drive magnets, they are powerful, and you don't want them to snap together on your fingers. OUCH!

    Zaphod - Replica

    This was perfect! I wish the original instructions mentioned the magnets.

    I used magnets I pilfered from an old hard drive.

    veganmo -

    This is definitely the hardest part of this repair. I ended up doing what Charlie did and got it off after a lot of frustration.

    aseisman - Replica

    The iMacs I've taken apart open simply with a magnet. I made a video to show exactly how the latch works inside. You do need a strong magnet like the hard drive internal magnet suggestion however they can be found in many places, just look for 'rare earth' or 'neodymium' and you'll find one. probably .3" cube would be big enough.

    http://youtu.be/yvq035edr-I

    there is the video that shows how the latch works. of course you may need TWO magnets to do both latches at the same time.

    awr - Replica

    Save yourself some headache and get a magnet for this. I used these: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PWMVSI/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Sometimes just one will do the job, other times I've had to use all 4 together.

    Much easier than trying to use a card.

    maccentric -

    sleestack is right on. The youtube vid is excellent for sliding the case right off without spudges and cards, etc. The vid's still there as of today, 9/30/2014. And the guy's foil removal is right on target, too. Very simple to replace the battery. I use this old 2006 computer with an old version of the PC program for Jobclock and only for that with Parallels 6 running the PC app. Don't want to upgrade or change anything at this point, going to milk it a couple more years. Got a nice big i5 for everything else. Oh, happy day.

    infoghost - Replica

    Apple designed the latch to be released with a Magnet. That's it. That is the tool to be used.

    Avoid frustration, hassles, wasted time: simply buy a "neodimio" Magnet.

    Actually yes – IMHO It would have preferred iFixtit had mentioned a MAGNET to release the front Bezel, the credit card in an awkward and misleading (and not so smart) method.

    I hope iFixit will change Step 3.

    Giacomo Santerini - Replica

    Be very careful here. One of the sides did not release using the plastic card. I tried to push it a bit but it would not give. It did work using 2 cards. What I did not realized until the very end, when I turned the imac back on, is that I broke the display. Thanks a lot ifixit. I get the hard drive back to work now but with a damaged display. And I can't even buy a replacement one from you.

    patmainville - Replica

    Yes the screens in these machines are easy to break. I've opened these sorts of machines at least a 40 times. You do need to be very careful with the display. The won't take any pressure from a wayward thumb or finger etc. I have broken one once, trying to get a latch to give. You have to be very conscious not to out any fingers in the display at all.

    BUT, how you think this is anyone's but your own fault is beyond me. iFixit has no blame to take here.

    Please everyone, read through all instructions carefully and learn from others'.

    And to this poster, go buy one of these machines from eBay or find in one in hard rubbish to repair yours. These white iMacs are almost 10 years old now. And are scrap in most people's minds.

    Charlie Nancarrow -

    • Poggiare l'iMac dal lato della staffa su una superficie piatta.

    • Per sollevare la mascherina anteriore dall'iMac, eseguire queste operazioni contemporaneamente:

      • Premere con i pollici le alette della memoria RAM e tenere l'iMac verso il basso.

      • Tirare con gli indici il piccolo ponte sulla mascherina anteriore verso di sé.

      • Tirare la mascherina anteriore verso l'alto con gli indici.

    • Dopo che il piccolo ponte ha liberato le alette della memoria RAM, sollevare la mascherina anteriore dal bordo inferiore, quanto basta a liberare il bordo inferiore del case posteriore.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Sollevare la mascherina anteriore dal case posteriore e ruotarla per rimuoverla dal bordo inferiore dell'iMac. Attenzione: i cavi del microfono e della fotocamera sono ancora collegati al bordo superiore.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Se occorre, rimuovere il nastro che copre il connettore del cavo del microfono.

    • Il connettore del microfono si trova vicino alla parte interna del bordo superiore dell'iMac.

    i posted a note on the next page about disconnecting the microphone and camera cable. may help. reed it before disconnect.

    sebalancea - Replica

    • Scollegare il cavo del microfono.

    • Scollegare il cavo della fotocamera estraendone il connettore dal connettore femmina sulla scheda della fotocamera.

    • I due connettori del cavo della fotocamera sono delicati e si piegano facilmente. Rimuoverli con attenzione.

    there's no need to disconnect the microphone and camera cable. you can work against a wall and carefully rest the frame and the display on the wall.

    sebalancea - Replica

    Citazione da sebalancea:

    there's no need to disconnect the microphone and camera cable. you can work against a wall and carefully rest the frame and the display on the wall.

    I didn't even use the wall, I just carefully pivoted the frame backwards and laid it on the table without disconnecting the wires

    Bob - Replica

    Be careful. My microphone and camera cables looked a little bit different from this. My camera cable connector did NOT plug directly into the camera board (and I almost tried pulling the cable out of the board), but rather there was a cable to cable connector that was stuffed behind the monitor. I had to skip this step until the monitor was out. I have an early 2006 20" iMac.

    avcaruso - Replica

    My Mac had a different camera board and it didn't appear that the cables could be detached. Leaving them in place and propping up the back of the case worked for me.

    gordonhamachi - Replica

    I agree, no need to disconnect. I used a bunch of books (heavy books), to keep the monitor frame upright.

    osfanatic - Replica

    • Sollevare la schermatura EMI dal case posteriore.

    • Occorre sollevare la schermatura solo da tre lati. Non rimuoverla del tutto dal display.

    • Nel caso in cui la schermatura EMI si strappasse, ripararla con un pezzo di nastro di alluminio.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Fissare la schermatura EMI sulla superficie del display con del nastro per tenerla da parte.

    I didn't see the need to tape the foil to the display (and I didn't want to get any sticky residue on the screen), so I skipped this bit with no problems.

    Bob - Replica

    Citazione da Bob:

    I didn't see the need to tape the foil to the display (and I didn't want to get any sticky residue on the screen), so I skipped this bit with no problems.

    I agree, and tape doesn't stick to the screen (I tried and the tape came loose before I was done)

    Wizbang FL - Replica

    • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T6 da 5 mm che fissano il connettore del cavo dati del display alla scheda logica.

    • Estrarre il connettore del cavo dati del display dalla scheda logica tramite la linguetta d'estrazione nera.

    This would be a really good time to change the PRAM battery. They only last 4-5 years, and cost very little. It'll save another teardown in the near future. (3v CR2032)

    Bob - Replica

    Citazione da Bob:

    This would be a really good time to change the PRAM battery. They only last 4-5 years, and cost very little. It'll save another teardown in the near future. (3v CR2032)

    Good idea, I just replaced this. $5 @ radioshack.

    sleestack - Replica

    I found that disconnecting the display cable at the LCD end was easier. There are 2 v small clips either side of the ribbon cable, squeeze together and the cable disconnects from the panel.

    KazR - Replica

    on this step I just forgot (there always something to forget!!) to connect back display data cable connector to the logic board, after I replaced the hard drive. Don't worry nothing happens. Hwen I switched on the iMac and it was just functioning alright and normal but I wasn't able see anything other than a black screen :)

    If you got a black screen but a normal white light on the right bottom corner, think abot the connector !

    joleisa - Replica

    • Sollevare nuovamente il nastro EMI dai due bordi verticali del display.

    • Durante il riassemblaggio, è consigliabile utilizzare varie piccole strisce di nastro per mantenere la schermatura EMI fra i bordi sinistro e destro del display e lontano dall'area di lavorazione, prima di posizionare il display nel case posteriore dell'iMac.

    This is tricky and took some time and patience. It is best to have some foil tape handy because the EMF shield tears easily. Likewise when reinstalling the screen and EMF shield, it helps to have a partner who can stop the foil to the side of the screen from getting folded under the screen when you lower it back into position, ready to tape it back onto the edge of the screen.

    mindzeebeez - Replica

    Citazione da mindzeebeez:

    This is tricky and took some time and patience. It is best to have some foil tape handy because the EMF shield tears easily. Likewise when reinstalling the screen and EMF shield, it helps to have a partner who can stop the foil to the side of the screen from getting folded under the screen when you lower it back into position, ready to tape it back onto the edge of the screen.

    I found that using the plastic card to remove the cover worked well in lifting the EM tape from the screen. Also step 10 & 11 appear to be reversed since you can't get to the screws until you have lifted up the display (this can only occur once you have dealt with the EM shield)

    Wizbang FL - Replica

    Peeling back the tape was very time consuming. I bet the pros just cut it and patch with new metallic tape. This step was the worst.

    gordonhamachi - Replica

    • Lasciare pendere la schermatura EMI inferiore dal display.

    • Rimuovere le quattro viti Torx T10 da 7,5 mm che fissano il display al case posteriore.

    • Le viti si trovano in fondo ai fori, pertanto è consigliabile rimuoverle con un cacciavite magnetico sottile. La maggior parte dei portapunta sono troppo corti per raggiungere queste viti.

    This is a Torx T-9 on the 24" iMac Core Duo

    jrmn - Replica

    Citazione da jrmn:

    This is a Torx T-9 on the 24" iMac Core Duo

    This is also a Torx T-9 on my 20" iMac Core Duo, probably manuf'd around the same time.

    Daniel - Replica

    Citazione da Daniel:

    This is also a Torx T-9 on my 20" iMac Core Duo, probably manuf'd around the same time.

    My mistake, it's actually a T-10, but the T-9 was the only one I could get to work due to the limited angle.

    Daniel - Replica

    I believe this is where the $4.95 looong T-10 screwdriver shown in the recommended tools would have come in handy. We managed to make the driver from the 54 bit set work by holding the bit driver with a vice grip, which made it possible to get down in there. The various holders that came with the set were just a hair too thick.

    Justina Hayden -

    These four screws are tricky to deal with. They are well recessed and hard to spot at first. A magnetised screwdriver is a prerequisite. Another way is to glue the screw heads to the screwdriver with some very weak glue, and let it almost set before trying to locate the screws back into their holes whilst re-assembling. I lost one screw somewhere inside the computer! It is alright with 3 but I hope it doesn't touch something vulnerable on the circuit board.

    mindzeebeez - Replica

    Citazione da mindzeebeez:

    These four screws are tricky to deal with. They are well recessed and hard to spot at first. A magnetised screwdriver is a prerequisite. Another way is to glue the screw heads to the screwdriver with some very weak glue, and let it almost set before trying to locate the screws back into their holes whilst re-assembling. I lost one screw somewhere inside the computer! It is alright with 3 but I hope it doesn't touch something vulnerable on the circuit board.

    Try sticking the screw onto the driver with a tiny piece of blu-tac. Worked for me.

    Bob - Replica

    I found it easiest to lie the computer on its back and rest all four screws in the display. Then all you have to do is lower the display slowly and evenly. The tricky part with this method is to make sure the EMI shield doesn't catch on the screws on the way down.

    Andrew - Replica

    If your Torx screwdriver isn't magnetized, rub the tip 8-10 times on the magnet inside the white plastic cover (the one that holds the remote to the side of the monitor). Prestro... your Torx screwdriver is now magnetized!

    John Way - Replica

    I used a strong wall magnet to magnetize my screwdriver. It worked perfectly! Your tip was very helpful and pointed me to an answer that worked for me.

    osfanatic -

    The lower left screw of the display can be sometimes reached directly from the corner rather through the hole.

    Bob - Replica

    • Sollevare il bordo inferiore del display e ruotarlo verso il bordo superiore dell'iMac.

    • Non sollevarlo eccessivamente, poiché i cavi dell'inverter sono ancora collegati.

    If you remove the inverter wires after dealing with the EM shield you can flip the display without detaching the LCD data cable. Use the foot of the iMac (with a towel to protect the display) to hold the display while you work inside.

    Wizbang FL - Replica

    • Scollegare entrambi i cavi dell'inverter dall'apposita scheda.

    • Questi connettori sono inseriti nei rispettivi connettori femmina in posizione molto ristretta. Può essere utile premere con le unghie o con la punta di un inseritore le linguette presenti sui lati dei connettori, al fine di rimuoverli dai connettori femmina. Un paio di pinze emostatiche piccole è l'ideale per questa operazione.

    The 17" model is nearly identical until this point. You will not have to disconnect on the 17" model for either Step 15 or Step 16.

    robino - Replica

    Watch out when reconnecting the inverter cables - the little pins on the inverter board are very easily bent indeed when the plug isn’t put back totally straight. I happened to bend one on the lower edge, resulting in the display being only dimly lit in the lower half and requiring me to open the machine once more. Since I only flipped up the display unit (as in some of the comments on step 16) I could skip step 15 and never touched the inverter cables on the top edge of the inverter board.

    Hartmut Vodermaier - Replica

    • Scollegare i due cavi dell'inverter presso il bordo superiore dell'inverter spesso, mediante il metodo spiegato nel passaggio precedente.

    I would mark the top of the large inverter cable connectors somehow, with a marker or pencil. My connectors had writing on the bottom, not the top as pictured, and I bent the pins trying to reinsert it incorrectly since the top and bottom look similar. Nearly all the other connectors have an obvious top and bottom.

    Marko - Replica

    Take pictures with iPhone of all tricky connectors and refer to them on reassembly:-)

    lamajr - Replica

    • Ruotare il display finché non è quasi perpendicolare al case posteriore e sollevarlo per rimuovere la schermatura EMI fissata sul bordo superiore.

    You don't need to peel off the display from the top. Just lean it toward a wall etc. in a perpendicular angle. If you don't move the mac while you perform the following steps, it won't flip or fall down. You can also save step 15 this way, as the wires are long enough to stay connected.

    Martin - Replica

    Why peel it off? I just left it there in the perpendicular position leaning against the wall. Didn't annoy me at all when I changed the hard drive.

    alex, Jul 02 2012

    alexanderfaussner - Replica

    I've seen a few people comment having found their Airport dead after hard drive swap. It's really easy to rip off the wire from Airport antenna (up there nearby the mic and camera, to the left from them). The wire goes through the holes of upside EMI shielding and raising the display too high while trying to peel the shielding off can yank the wire so it gets loose from the soldering.

    Tee - Replica

    It looks like I'm late to the party but here goes anyway... I have Ubuntu Kylin installed on my iMac Intel 20" EMC 2105 and I want to use the iMac's display for my Linux install on that unit AND be able to switch the video going to the screen from my iMac to what's displayed on my Mac Mini. I think what I'm asking is how can I split the display so I can switch the video input to the video card from one machine to another.

    Frederick C - Replica

    You do not have to disassemble the logic board! At this point, you have to disassemble the hard disk, unscrew the 4 screws and the big power connector. The second small cable, without disassembling the motherboard, is enough to make it pass sideways, pulling away with a bit of force on plastic and the beat sink. The small sponge gasket must be removed and then rested. 3 minutes in total from this point!

    gentissi - Replica

    • Scollegare il cavo del sensore termico dell'unità ottica estraendone il connettore dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica.

    • Estrarre il connettore in senso parallelo alla superficie della scheda logica.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T6 da 3,6 mm che fissano il connettore del cavo piatto dell'unità ottica alla scheda logica.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Utilizzare l'estremità piatta di un inseritore per rimuovere il connettore del cavo piatto dell'unità ottica dalla scheda logica.

    • La rimozione del connettore avviene più facilmente rimuovendolo dalla parte superiore o inferiore.

    • Piegare il cavo piatto dell'unità ottica allontanandolo dalla scheda logica.

    • Fare molta attenzione durante lo spostamento del cavo piatto dell'unità ottica poiché è delicato e può rompersi facilmente.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Sembra che i tecnici Apple non abbiano tenuto in conto la flessibilità e la rigidità dei materiali, pertanto la rimozione dell'unità ottica è particolarmente difficoltosa poiché le staffe si piegano eccessivamente. I passaggi successivi richiedono pazienza e una buona dose di forza.

    • Inserire l'estremità piatta di un inseritore nello spazio fra l'unità ottica e la staffa, fino a toccare il case.

    • Tenere l'inseritore il più vicino possibile all'estremità dell'unità ottica e premere la linguetta di sgancio con il pollice tirando verso di sé.

    • La forma del cuneo dell'inseritore potrebbe farlo scivolare fuori dall'apertura verso l'utente. Premere l'inseritore verso il case posteriore durante la pressione della linguetta di sgancio.

    Just take out the rear screw by the latch near the logic board, then concentrate on releasing the latch on the other side by the method shown in the pic,when you have relased that side of the drive hold the drive up enough so that you can release lower latch with a long bladed thin screwdriver by going under the drive and pushing downwards on the latch leg to release it and pulling up gently on the drive,works like a charm !

    Supadupa - Replica

    • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T10 da 6 mm dal lato dell'unità ottica.

    • È consigliabile poggiare l'iMac su un tavolo prima di rimuovere le viti, al fine di prevenirne la caduta dietro la scheda logica.

    It seems that you can wait to remove these two screws until step 29, since you release the optical drive from the chassis with the plastic

    fabiendaguerre - Replica

    Agreed, no need to do this step with the drive in the computer since you're taking it out. Reduces the chance of dropping a screw inside and having to remove it.

    maccentric -

    • Con le dita, sganciare la linguetta inferiore dell'unità ottica dalla parte posteriore del case.

    The pictures and description on this step need help. What it's trying to tell you is to undo the clip like the one in step 20, this time do the side near the fan.

    maccentric - Replica

    • Estrarre l'unità ottica dal case posteriore, facendo attenzione a non spezzare i due piedini di plastica sporgenti nel case posteriore vicino all'estremità aperta dell'unità.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T6 che fissano il cavo dell'unità ottica a quest'ultima.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Inserire l'estremità piatta di uno spudger nello spazio fra il connettore del cavo dell'unità ottica e quest'ultima.

    • Ruotare lo spudger per separare il connettore dall'unità ottica.

    • Ripetere la procedura su entrambi i lati del connettore.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Estrarre il connettore del cavo dell'unità ottica da quest'ultima.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Mediante l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, rimuovere le piccole parti di schiuma EMI dal lato inferiore dell'unità ottica.

    • Non dimenticare che devono essere trasferite alla nuova unità.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Sollevare la striscia lunga di schiuma EMI dal lato inferiore dell'unità ottica.

    • Non dimenticare che deve essere trasferita alla nuova unità.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T10 dal lato dell'unità ottica.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Mediante la punta di uno spudger, premere le linguette delle due staffe dell'unità ottica fuori dai rispettivi slot, nella parte superiore dell'unità stessa.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Mediante la punta di uno spudger, premere la linguetta della staffa dell'unità ottica fuori dallo slot, nella parte laterale dell'unità stessa.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Mediante la punta di uno spudger, premere le linguette della staffa dell'unità ottica fuori dai rispettivi slot, nella parte superiore dell'unità stessa.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Estrarre la staffa dell'unità ottica verso l'estremità aperta di quest'ultima per liberarla dall'unità stessa.

    Aggiungi Commento

    • Mediante l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, rimuovere il sensore termico dell'unità ottica dall'adesivo che lo fissa all'unità stessa.

    • Non dimenticare che deve essere trasferita alla nuova unità.

    • Se hai un disco o altro incastrato nel tuo lettore ottico, abbiamo una guida per risolvere la situazione.

    For the thermal sensor, look at the comments about the hard drive replacement (there's also a thermal sensor on it) :Thermal sensors comments

    by Wizbang FL Feb 28 @ 7:08 PM

    When removing the sensor be careful to get underneath the adhesive (IE: keep as much adhesive on the sensor) It allowed me to just stick the sensor to the new hard drive (clean the new drive area with alcohol and allow to dry to promote adhesion) Don't get the sensor dirty

    fabiendaguerre - Replica

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il tuo computer, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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I cannot get the top latches to release.Tried all the suggestions here and on YouTube. Especially a good video from Twistedmac. Made his suggested access card all different ways but nothing is working.

Any further tips or help will be greatly appreciated.

Also on the latch picture where does the credit card actually have to make contact? Please help I'm going bonkers.

Joe in PA - Replica

Finally figured it out. Lift up the bezel from the bottom about 45 deg

you will then see the latch on both sides. Put a spudger or whatever under the latch and push up. Do not lift the bezel too high or you will damage the latches. This worked like a miracle for me.

Had no success with the credit card method, it was really frustrating.

The sleestack post is also also great.

Joe in PA -

OMG!!! The rating for this repair as "moderate" is waaaaaayyyy off! I've been repairing various laptops for YEARS on iFixit and this was my first attempt at a desktop repair. It was so much more fidgety and difficult than the hardest laptop I've done (probably about 12 - 15 other repairs by now).

And sorry... tho' I love this site and am grateful for these tutorials, this one was wanting in detail and assumed that I not only knew terminology that I didn't know (I was able to figure it out of course, I DID finish the repair) but skipped important details that made it infinitely harder (and took me waaaayyy longer than it should have!). For example, when removing the optical drive, the guide skipped about three steps and I ended up accidentally breaking some delicate plastic bits. And gee thanks for waiting until I have everything apart to tell me I need a longer screwdriver! I found a tedious workaround, but... sheesh dude! All in all, I'd have to say...by far the WORST experience I've had on this site!

Traveled Woman - Replica

The credit card trick with the latches on the upper corners of the bezel works fine if you push the card in at 45 degrees, from the slot to the corners of the bezel. Works first time every time. The photo is deceptive.

Peter - Replica

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