Introduzione
The ins and outs of replacing your DC to DC board.
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Loosen the two Phillips screws securing the access door to your iMac.
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Remove the access door from your iMac.
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Remove the three T8 Torx screws securing the front bezel to the rear panel.
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Use your thumbs to press both RAM arms in past the front bezel for enough clearance to lift it off the rear case.
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While holding the RAM arms in with your thumbs, lift the lower edge of the front bezel enough to clear the rear case.
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Insert a plastic card up into the corner of the air vent slot at the top of the rear case.
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Push the card toward the top of the iMac to release the front bezel latch.
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Pull the front bezel away from the rear case.
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Repeat this process for the other side of the front bezel.
Using a strongish magnet will grab and release the latches.
Citazione da darkstar448:
Using a strongish magnet will grab and release the latches.
Are you sure it's safe to do this? How close is the hard drive, won't magnets interfere with it?
It's almost certainly fine. Modern hard drives are very resistant to magnetic fields.
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Lay your iMac stand-side down on a table.
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Lift the front bezel from its lower edge and rotate it away from the rest of your iMac, minding the RAM arms that may get caught.
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Lay the front bezel above the rest of the iMac.
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If necessary, remove the piece of kapton tape wrapped around the microphone and camera cables.
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Disconnect both the camera and microphone cables.
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Peel back the aluminum EMI shield up off the lower three edges of the rear case.
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Remove the two 5 mm T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable to the logic board.
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Using its attached black tab, pull the display data cable connector up off the logic board.
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Pull the inverter cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.
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Peel back the aluminum EMI tape from the two vertical edges of the display.
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Remove the four recessed coarse-thread 7.5 mm T10 Torx screws securing the display to the rear case.
No problem taking those screws off, HUGE problem trying to put them back in. Reassembling this step is a lot more complicated. Those 4 screws are impossible to reinstall if you don't have a magnetized screwdriver, which I don't.
I used some 'chapstik' on my t10 driver and it held the screws long enough to insert them.
Citazione da javier:
No problem taking those screws off, HUGE problem trying to put them back in. Reassembling this step is a lot more complicated. Those 4 screws are impossible to reinstall if you don't have a magnetized screwdriver, which I don't.
Since I could not get a hold on a nice magnetized T10, I inverted the whole unit and worked upside down to avoid lost screws inside an iMac.
Citazione da javier:
Since I could not get a hold on a nice magnetized T10, I inverted the whole unit and worked upside down to avoid lost screws inside an iMac.
Great, now my problem is to find a new cable that connects the panel to LB.
I'm from Italy and nobody has got it .
Please help me
Thanks for all
Carlo
I found a group of wires not mentioned on the instructions along the underside of the display at the right. They were connected to something at the right bottom of the display near the white plastic piece. I am unable to raise the display more than a couple of inches at this side of it and am wondering what do do.
The group of wires on the right side of the display is the inverter. Seems like a few steps were omitted, so I'll try to fill in the gaps. Use the T10 to remove the right speaker. It's the big white plastic squarish thing on the bottom right side of the iMac. It pulls stright up and you can either disconnect it or just leave it hanging. This should release the inverter cable from hanging up the right side of the display (it did for me, even disconnecting the inverter didn't help as the cable was under the speaker, the inverter doesn't need to be disconnected but it might be helpful to disentangle things and it's an easy one to take apart). The other step missing is to remove the perforated tape at the top of the LCD from the LCD, otherwise you can't really remove it. I found a spudger helpful for this task.
I know it's a couple years since the OP posted, but hope this helps someone.
Cheers
Jeff Kamis
I've found that 'coating' the tip of the screwdriver with glue from a glue-stick will help to keep the screws from coming off of a non-magnetized driver.
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Lift the display from its lower edge and pull it toward yourself to peel it off the EMI shield attached to its top edge.
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Pull the DC power cable connector away from its socket to disconnect it from the DC to DC board.
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Pull the power supply cable connector away from its socket to disconnect it from the DC to DC board.
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Remove the three T10 Torx screws from the DC to DC board.
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Lift the DC to DC board out of the rear case.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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